New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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I've started using phophoric acid post boil pre whirlpool to get pH down to less than 4.5.
I've got a lot of sour grapes malt which I use in the mash to drop pH if needed during that stage.
 
I've started using phophoric acid post boil pre whirlpool to get pH down to less than 4.5.
I've got a lot of sour grapes malt which I use in the mash to drop pH if needed during that stage.
I haven’t heard of going that low at whirlpool (unless you’re doing a cool ship or spontaneous beer). What is the advantage?

Also, if you have the resource you saw it in, can you send me the link. I’d like to read it
 
It was in a craft beer and brewing podcast with a brewer making a lot of award winning NEIPA.
Think it was from 2023.
Are You sure 4.6 wasn’t the targeted post dryhop ph and not the knock out ph? 4.5-4.6 is what many folks, including myself, target post drhoping to soften bitterness and to fall below the safety threshold.
 
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Are You sure 4.6 wasn’t the targeted post dryhop ph and not the knock out ph? 4.5-4.6 is what many folks, including myself, target post drhoping to soften bitterness and to fall below the safety threshold.
Do you adjust post-dry hop or do you adjust earlier and design your recipes to land here?

Citric or phosphoric on cold side?
 
I've started using phophoric acid post boil pre whirlpool to get pH down to less than 4.5.
I've got a lot of sour grapes malt which I use in the mash to drop pH if needed during that stage.
What is your pre and post dryhop ph on that beer and with what yeast?
 
Cheers! racking onto dry hop keg filled with

6oz superdelic
2oz motueka
2oz mosaic cryo
2oz simcoe cryo

~15 g spectrum mosaic

Loaded the keg with O2 to really help the hops shine
 

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I have some Talus I was considering using. I don't want much wood character. Would 2 oz in 6 gallons be reasonable or is 1 oz better?

Assuming you go 2oz/gallon, so using Talus as 15-20% of your DH would come out very good. Alone it has a very broad range from Dole pineapple can to tropical guava to rosebush to green pepper. I never found it to be woody (daughter of Sabro) although maybe got a hint of coconut once or twice. Mixed with other hops, it's always awesome so never fear using it as 20-50% of total dosage.
 
I've been tinkering with the idea of using specific hops only on hot side and others only on cold side. I feel like I've always made hazies with 2-3 hops and used them both on hot and cold side, but some hops don't express well on hot side and some don't express well on cold side. Anyone have great experiences with some hot side bangers?
Like Janish, I definitely dig Idaho 7 on hot side for sure. It can be hit or miss on cold side.
Simcoe another good one.
On the other hand, I never pick up crazy flavors from Nelson on hot side - it's best in DH for me.
 
I've been tinkering with the idea of using specific hops only on hot side and others only on cold side. I feel like I've always made hazies with 2-3 hops and used them both on hot and cold side, but some hops don't express well on hot side and some don't express well on cold side. Anyone have great experiences with some hot side bangers?
Like Janish, I definitely dig Idaho 7 on hot side for sure. It can be hit or miss on cold side.
Simcoe another good one.
On the other hand, I never pick up crazy flavors from Nelson on hot side - it's best in DH for me.
At the brewery I'm about to depart from, we pretty much strictly use some combo of Citra/Mosaic/Idaho 7 on the hot side and leave the unique hops for the cold side. It's a waste otherwise in my opinion. You get 90% of the character from dry-hopping.
 
At the brewery I'm about to depart from, we pretty much strictly use some combo of Citra/Mosaic/Idaho 7 on the hot side and leave the unique hops for the cold side. It's a waste otherwise in my opinion. You get 90% of the character from dry-hopping.
I did get a ton of flavor from a Simcoe/Mosaic WP on a west coast IPA recently. Tasted it pre-DH and it was delicious already.

Nonetheless, something I haven't seen before is where NZ hops fit into the Survivables chart...
Nelson much lower than Nectaron on the totem pole here, but it's still on this list so it can't be terrible.
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source:
 
At the brewery I'm about to depart from, we pretty much strictly use some combo of Citra/Mosaic/Idaho 7 on the hot side and leave the unique hops for the cold side. It's a waste otherwise in my opinion. You get 90% of the character from dry-hopping.
Sounds like KCBC hotside hops. That said I think 90% of character from dryhoping is a pretty extreme number. I’d say around 65-70%. There’s are reason most guidelines from some of the best that do the style are doing a 1:2-2.5 ratio of hotside to coldside by weight
 
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Anyone tried centennial in the WP? Never hear about it even though it is the number 1 in survivables
 
Anyone tried centennial in the WP? Never hear about it even though it is the number 1 in survivables

So yes, it does have survivables, but the flavors that survive taste like "cooked hops" to me, which isn't the best in a hazy. It's super resinous and not much fruit.
 
Sounds like KCBC hotside hops. That said I think 90% of character from dryhoping is a pretty extreme number. I’d say around 65-70%. There’s are reason most guidelines from some of the best that do the style are doing a 1:2-2.5 ratio of hotside to coldside by weight
Ha! Head about 75 miles north and you'll find me! Well, for another week or so at least.

90% was definitely hyperbole on my part. My bad! I'd say 70% is a good roundabout on the serious side.

We've done Citra/Mosaic whirlpools, Citra/Mosaic/Idaho etc etc. Gun to my head I couldn't tell you the difference.
 
I did get a ton of flavor from a Simcoe/Mosaic WP on a west coast IPA recently. Tasted it pre-DH and it was delicious already.

Nonetheless, something I haven't seen before is where NZ hops fit into the Survivables chart...
Nelson much lower than Nectaron on the totem pole here, but it's still on this list so it can't be terrible.
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source:

Nectaron and 586 work great hot side for this style. Nelson works great too. It all depends on your fermentation process what will eventually survive in my opinion.
 
I have recently started fermenting in kegs to be able retain the survivables happening during fermentation. When I get close to terminal I’ll let the beer naturally carobonate. That natural pressure helps retain flavor and aroma from the Wp charge. It works form me and my very basic brewing equipment.
 
I have recently started fermenting in kegs to be able retain the survivables happening during fermentation. When I get close to terminal I’ll let the beer naturally carobonate. That natural pressure helps retain flavor and aroma from the Wp charge. It works form me and my very basic brewing equipment.
Till what psi do you let it build?
 
I let the pressure build to the target pressure needed for my target vols. Then cold crash and closed Transfer and it's ready to go. I lower the hops in closed using the bag and magnet technique.
 
Anybody using A24 getting long ferment times? Granted I under pitched this batch but I’m 11 days in and it’s slowly dropping a pt every day or so.
 
Sounds like KCBC hotside hops. That said I think 90% of character from dryhoping is a pretty extreme number. I’d say around 65-70%. There’s are reason most guidelines from some of the best that do the style are doing a 1:2-2.5 ratio of hotside to coldside by weight
He never mentioned quantity/ratio didn’t matter on hot side, just selection. There’s a reason breweries use their hops that don’t rank well in their sensory analysis in the whirlpool as opposed to cold side.
 
He never mentioned quantity/ratio didn’t matter on hot side, just selection. There’s a reason breweries use their hops that don’t rank well in their sensory analysis in the whirlpool as opposed to cold side.
He said 90% of the character of a beer comes from dryhoping and thats why I made my comment. I provided the ratio of hotside to dryhoping because it’s what’s most of the best are using and it correlated to the dryhop providing roughly 65-70% of the character of a hazy ipa. As a 1 : 2 ratio is 33% to 66%
 
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Anybody using A24 getting long ferment times? Granted I under pitched this batch but I’m 11 days in and it’s slowly dropping a pt every day or so.
This has been my experience with this yeast so far (using it twice). I don't recall this ever happening with any other yeast.
 
He said 90% of the character of a beer comes from dryhoping and thats why I made my comment. I provided the ratio of hotside to dryhoping because it’s what’s most of the best are using and it correlated to the dryhop providing roughly 65-70% of the character of a hazy ipa. As a 1 : 2 ratio is 33% to 66%
I reread my comment and didn’t mean for it to come across as confrontational. Tone doesn’t transfer well online
 
It looks incredible. What was your process using the spectrum?
I was planning on adding to serving keg but opted to include it in my dry hop keg. I also changed up my dry hop process of shaking/rocking the keg every few hours. I’d flip it upside down for about an hour, then roll, then flip it back upright and roll. I did this every 8 hours or so.

I also debated on just dry hopping with the keg horizontal to keep as much surface area of the beer in contact with the hops. Might try that next time
 
@smalloy88 How do you purge the dry hop keg and how do you add the dry hop to the purged keg?
I fill with starsan solution and make sure I get every crevice soaked for a minute or two. Before pushing the starsan out with co2 I burp the keg a few times with co2 to make sure it's fully purged. Then I push the starsan out with co2. I use a floating dip tube in my dry hop keg, so I have to get the last few ounces out through the pressure relief valve. Then I attach a liquid disconnect to the co2 line and attach it to the liquid out line. I keep it around 10 psi while I add the dry hops. The hope is that the co2 pushing out is stronger than the o2 being introduced. Just to be sure, after my hops are added, I do a handful of 15 psi charges of co2. Once I rack the beer into the dry hop keg, I do a few more burps of co2, but my volume in the dry hop keg is basically maxed out (I rack until I see beer coming out of the vent line (gas in)), so I know there is barely any headspace.

Some people sanitize and let the co2 from fermentation purge the dry hop keg, but I feel like that pushes some of the hop content out of the final product. Ideally, I'll dry hop in a vessel that is compatible with a purgeable dry hop chamber. I know my approach isn't completely void of o2, but it's pretty close, and I always add a couple charges of co2 throughout. My coldside equipment is limited, but eventually I'll upgrade to a better setup.
 
I’d bet you’ll land at 5.0
I landed at 4.9 after whirlpool and cooling to 70f the brewday went well overall though still dialing in beersmith 3 with my equipment but that's a whole other thing. I think the .1 ph drop came from adding a touch to much acid in my sparge water. I don't think it's enough for me to worry about. Fermentation kicked off within 6 hours of pitching yeast. Should I check ph again before dry hopping? I have a sample port so I can do it without oxygen exposure.
 
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