New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[Dgallo]

I'm curious, what would your process have been for adding maltodextrin post fermentation?

Best way to do it post ferm is to make it as concentrated as possible, cool and pour it into one of those cheap bbq squeeze bottles. Then with your purged keg, UNSCREW the prv, quick pour or squeeze the solution through it. Turn on the gas and let it run for 10 second or more, then screw the prv back on.

Then when racking the beer into the serving keg, you’ll get it mixed up decently. Once you’re fully racked you and agitate the keg. If your rock to force carb, you’ll kill 2 birds one stone

 

[synonymous18]

View attachment 832395

Super Potion - 9.5% ABV.
Imperial IPA with Citra, 2023 Motueka & 2023 Nelson Sauvin. Fermented with Raw Orange Blossom Honey.

31 days since brew day. This beer is fantastic! Like, it genuinely holds up with some of the best beers I’ve tried. Quite comfortably the best beer I’ve ever brewed, and I like to believe I’ve brewed some pretty good beers in the past.

I tried this for the first time on the weekend with a mate who’s palate I really trust. The first thing he said to me after the first sip was how good the mouthfeel was. Whether this was purely down to the ridiculous amount of Oats & Wheat (60%) or a combination of the Grain Bill, Dry Hop (6lb/bbl), Carbonation Pressure (10PSI) and Finishing Gravity (1.024) I don’t know but there is a noticeably great mouthfeel about this beer. Safe to say we enjoyed our night and our wives probably had enough of our antics by the 4th pint.

I tried to match the oil content 1:1:1 in the dry hop. No astringency whatsoever. The 2023 NZ hops are unreal. A cheat code really.

As the beer finished at a relatively high gravity, I didn’t feel the need to add Maltodextrine. I like my beers on the sweeter side. The BSY-A011 yeast I used has a limit of 9.5% and probably fizzled out a bit. A different variant may have finished this drier.

I don’t think the addition of honey didn’t added anything besides extra ABV. Next time I brew this I will probably eliminate it. 9.5% is a touch high for me. I don’t mind buying cans of that percentage but for something I have on tap 24/7 I’d like a bit more drinkability. I had three of these in one session and I was smashed.

Does a beer need 6lb/bbl in the dry hop? I’m not sure. I’ll probably tone it down next beer. I only got 15L into the keg due to the losses.

Post dry hop pH of 4.70

Overall, amazing beer. Brew day was difficult but absolutely worth it in the end. I’ll definitely continue to incorporate Brujos style processes into my future brews.

Gorgeous beer! What did your dry hop end up based on total oils? 0.5:1:1 for Citra:Nelson:motueka?

 

[anteater8]

Best way to do it post ferm is to make it as concentrated as possible, cool and pour it into one of those cheap bbq squeeze bottles. Then with your purged keg, UNSCREW the prv, quick pour or squeeze the solution through it. Turn on the gas and let it run for 10 second or more, then screw the prv back on.

Then when racking the beer into the serving keg, you’ll get it mixed up decently. Once you’re fully racked you and agitate the keg. If your rock to force carb, you’ll kill 2 birds one stone

Thanks, seems like a good method for gelatin or liquid adjuncts too!

 

[Dgallo]

Thanks, seems like a good method for gelatin or liquid adjuncts too!

that’s how I add my cold side finings. I like biofine the best

 

[aaronm13]

View attachment 832395

Super Potion - 9.5% ABV.
Imperial IPA with Citra, 2023 Motueka & 2023 Nelson Sauvin. Fermented with Raw Orange Blossom Honey.

31 days since brew day. This beer is fantastic! Like, it genuinely holds up with some of the best beers I’ve tried. Quite comfortably the best beer I’ve ever brewed, and I like to believe I’ve brewed some pretty good beers in the past.

I tried this for the first time on the weekend with a mate who’s palate I really trust. The first thing he said to me after the first sip was how good the mouthfeel was. Whether this was purely down to the ridiculous amount of Oats & Wheat (60%) or a combination of the Grain Bill, Dry Hop (6lb/bbl), Carbonation Pressure (10PSI) and Finishing Gravity (1.024) I don’t know but there is a noticeably great mouthfeel about this beer. Safe to say we enjoyed our night and our wives probably had enough of our antics by the 4th pint.

I tried to match the oil content 1:1:1 in the dry hop. No astringency whatsoever. The 2023 NZ hops are unreal. A cheat code really.

As the beer finished at a relatively high gravity, I didn’t feel the need to add Maltodextrine. I like my beers on the sweeter side. The BSY-A011 yeast I used has a limit of 9.5% and probably fizzled out a bit. A different variant may have finished this drier.

I don’t think the addition of honey didn’t added anything besides extra ABV. Next time I brew this I will probably eliminate it. 9.5% is a touch high for me. I don’t mind buying cans of that percentage but for something I have on tap 24/7 I’d like a bit more drinkability. I had three of these in one session and I was smashed.

Does a beer need 6lb/bbl in the dry hop? I’m not sure. I’ll probably tone it down next beer. I only got 15L into the keg due to the losses.

Post dry hop pH of 4.70

Overall, amazing beer. Brew day was difficult but absolutely worth it in the end. I’ll definitely continue to incorporate Brujos style processes into my future brews.

Great report on your beer, it looks and sounds amazing. I'm cold crashing my version of it now (Nelson, Citra, Nectaron) and hopefully keg on Saturday. After listening to his podcast realised my standard grain bill isn't a mile away from his. Mine is just more oat heavier than his.

How much does 6lb/bbl translate to oz per gallon? I did 17oz in 5.5G

 

[Dgallo]

Great report on your beer, it looks and sounds amazing. I'm cold crashing my version of it now (Nelson, Citra, Nectaron) and hopefully keg on Saturday. After listening to his podcast realised my standard grain bill isn't a mile away from his. Mine is just more oat heavier than his.

How much does 6lb/bbl translate to oz per gallon? I did 17oz in 5.5G

1lb per bbl is about 0.5 oz per gallon.

So 6lb/bbl would be roughly 3 oz/gallon

 

[Frieds]

Great report on your beer, it looks and sounds amazing. I'm cold crashing my version of it now (Nelson, Citra, Nectaron) and hopefully keg on Saturday. After listening to his podcast realised my standard grain bill isn't a mile away from his. Mine is just more oat heavier than his.

How much does 6lb/bbl translate to oz per gallon? I did 17oz in 5.5G

This one was 21g/L.

 

[Frieds]

Gorgeous beer! What did your dry hop end up based on total oils? 0.5:1:1 for Citra:Nelson:motueka?

2.25:1.75:1.0 ratio between Nelson: Motueka: Citra. Obviously not a perfect figure, I just based it off what info the internet gave on total oil content of each hop.

 

[Frieds]

Congrats! That looks delicious. Curious how you managed such a high fg with a low mash temp? Is A011 a notoriously low attenuator? I’ve been struggling with my beers finishing too low. Brewing a double with Verdant now and it’s at 1.017 (79%!) and still dropping. I figured it’s due to inconsistent (too low) mash temps but then I saw you mashed at 150…

This was only the second time I’ve used this variant so I’m not too well versed in its performance so far.

The Grainfather S40 has a 3 degree temp range so that could be a factor. I use Celsius so 3C is a pretty large range.

The yeast tolerance is 9.5%, so that could also have been a factor, although I did add the honey at the very tail end of fermentation . I fed it a shitload of oxygen, like 8 minutes for the 23L I put into the fermentor.

I fed it a vitality starter. There’s a chance I didn’t give it enough yeast maybe and that could contribute, although there is no noticeable off flavour so it seems like the fermentation was healthy, it definitely looked healthy

 

[secretlevel]

2.25:1.75:1.0 ratio between Nelson: Motueka: Citra. Obviously not a perfect figure, I just based it off what info the internet gave on total oil content of each hop.

That's a bangin' hop combo, too. One of my favorites. I also love the variation of it with Motueka/Waimea/Citra. Going to be making something similar soon.

 

[aaronm13]

1lb per bbl is about 0.5 oz per gallon.

So 6lb/bbl would be roughly 3 oz/gallon

Thanks. That's a pretty handy way to remember it. For some reason I thought it was more.

 

[Frieds]

1lb per bbl is about 0.5 oz per gallon.

So 6lb/bbl would be roughly 3 oz/gallon

Or 3.87g/L for us using the metric system.

 

[Dgallo]

Or 3.87g/L for us using the metric

Thanks for adding that. I’m an American so obviously I’m lousy with the metric system and don’t even think of it.

 

[BongoYodeler]

"Class, the reason you have to learn about the metric system is because within the next ten years the United States will be converting to it." - One of my long since forgotten teachers back in the '60s.

 

[YeastFeast]

"Class, the reason you have to learn about the metric system is because within the next ten years the United States will be converting to it." - One of my long since forgotten teachers back in the '60s.

Teachers said the exact same thing as a youngster in school in the 70s.

 

[Northern_Brewer]

Thanks for adding that. I’m an American so obviously I’m lousy with the metric system and don’t even think of it.

There's plenty of us in these parts who use it, even in those countries where we would go several miles to buy a good pint....

And at least metric has the same units for homebrew and commercial brewlengths!

 

[Dgallo]

There's plenty of us in these parts who use it, even in those countries where we would go several miles to buy a good pint....

And at least metric has the same units for homebrew and commercial brewlengths!

Oh it definitely makes more sense being a base 10 system! I wasn’t taking any jabs at the metric system, more so at the metric system conversion knowledge we received in the US LOL

 

[skleice]

I'm planning to use London Fog on my next batch. Anybody have experience and fermentation temp recommendations?

 

[Dgallo]

I'm planning to use London Fog on my next batch. Anybody have experience and fermentation temp recommendations?

Pretty sure that’s @wepeeler ’s go to yeast.

 

[wepeeler]

Pretty sure that’s @wepeeler ’s go to yeast.

Coastal Haze actually, but London Fog is a very close second. Both are great for the style.

@skleice - I run both Coastal Haze and London Fog at 66F until they slow down, then up to 68F. Sometimes I'll bump to 70F to finish.

 

[skleice]

Coastal Haze actually, but London Fog is a very close second. Both are great for the style.

@skleice - I run both Coastal Haze and London Fog at 66F until they slow down, then up to 68F. Sometimes I'll bump to 70F to finish.

Cool. I'll give that a shot. Tx!

 

[Langerz]

No filter, just the open hose on the float.

I’ve honestly have only had one clog. All I did to fix it was put a liquid balllock on the co2 line and ran co2 down the diptube while venting. After crashing all your hops should be sitting at the bottom. And it shouldn’t be a issue

What are people’s general approaches with dip tubes and transfers.

My process today is I transfer from fermenter to dry hop keg to serving keg. Everything I use a floating dip tube and filter. Serving keg too.

I agree with what you said here if I’m soft or cold crashing before crashing a filter probably isn’t needed but I also haven’t ever had a problem with one so haven’t changed. I do have to lift up my fermenter and moving before the transfer process and that usually disturbs a bit of krausen stuck to the top that ends up floating around that the filter probably helps with.

I did have one serving keg with a bit of a mysterious issues with the dip tube issue. It acted like the keg was kicking with a bunch of foam and spitting. I’d shake it. Get a glass. Same thing. I tried CO2 through liquid post to clean out but same result. It was a simple blond ale so I ended up just opening it up and putting in a standard dip tube. The next time I put a hazy in it and got the same thing. Luckily I shook the keg a bit and fixed it because I really didn’t want to open that one up and expose it to oxygen.

But it made me think if I’m using FDTs and filter on the transfers is there really any need to use a FDT in the serving keg? Things should be pretty well filtered in there

 

[Dgallo]

What are people’s general approaches with dip tubes and transfers.

My process today is I transfer from fermenter to dry hop keg to serving keg. Everything I use a floating dip tube and filter. Serving keg too.

I agree with what you said here if I’m soft or cold crashing before crashing a filter probably isn’t needed but I also haven’t ever had a problem with one so haven’t changed. I do have to lift up my fermenter and moving before the transfer process and that usually disturbs a bit of krausen stuck to the top that ends up floating around that the filter probably helps with.

I did have one serving keg with a bit of a mysterious issues with the dip tube issue. It acted like the keg was kicking with a bunch of foam and spitting. I’d shake it. Get a glass. Same thing. I tried CO2 through liquid post to clean out but same result. It was a simple blond ale so I ended up just opening it up and putting in a standard dip tube. The next time I put a hazy in it and got the same thing. Luckily I shook the keg a bit and fixed it because I really didn’t want to open that one up and expose it to oxygen.

But it made me think if I’m using FDTs and filter on the transfers is there really any need to use a FDT in the serving keg? Things should be pretty well filtered in there

I do understand that my process is locked in but I’ve preformed at least 30 batches with my close transfer lid that uses a floating dibtube and probably the last 20 were two closed transfers each (one from primary to dryhop and one from dryhop to serving) and I’ve only ever had 1 issue transferring and that was with pineapple ipa where some pulp made it through the diptube and clogged the poppet on the liquid post. To your direct question, Can you use a filter? I’m sure you can without issue but I really don’t think it’s needed

The issue your experiencing sounds like 1 of 3 things.

1) you have a clogged poppet on the keg so it nucleating like crazy and more co2 is escaping then beer through the clog.

2) your floating diptube hose is too long and the slack is getting stuck, forcing the opening of the hose at or slightly above the beer volume.

3) (less likely) your floating diptube is getting suctioned to the wall of the keg and it’s effecting your pouring

 

[ihavenonickname]

I do understand that my process is locked in but I’ve preformed at least 30 batches with my close transfer lid that uses a floating dibtube and probably the last 20 were two closed transfers each (one from primary to dryhop and one from dryhop to serving) and I’ve only ever had 1 issue transferring and that was with pineapple ipa where some pulp made it through the diptube and clogged the poppet on the liquid post. To your direct question, Can you use a filter? I’m sure you can without issue but I really don’t think it’s needed

The issue your experiencing sounds like 1 of 3 things.

1) you have a clogged poppet on the keg so it nucleating like crazy and more co2 is escaping then beer through the clog.

2) your floating diptube is hose is too long and the slack is getting stuck, forcing the opening of the hose at or slightly above the beer volume.

3) (less likely) your floating diptube is getting suctioned to the wall of the keg and it’s effecting your pouring

I’m pretty sure his issue is number two. With too much slack in the tube the open end pops up into the head space above the beer. A lot of people will put a SS washer or nut onto the end to keep it down.

I’m a big fan of the filters on my floating dip tubes. I’ve never had a clog since using them and I did clog once when I moved the fermenter right before transferring without a filter. So avoid moving it and using a filter as extra insurance is a good way to go I think. Also I use all stainless so i can’t see what my tube is doing or if all the trub has fallen completely, so the filter gives me more confidence.

 

[secretlevel]

What are people’s general approaches with dip tubes and transfers.

My process today is I transfer from fermenter to dry hop keg to serving keg. Everything I use a floating dip tube and filter. Serving keg too.

I agree with what you said here if I’m soft or cold crashing before crashing a filter probably isn’t needed but I also haven’t ever had a problem with one so haven’t changed. I do have to lift up my fermenter and moving before the transfer process and that usually disturbs a bit of krausen stuck to the top that ends up floating around that the filter probably helps with.

I did have one serving keg with a bit of a mysterious issues with the dip tube issue. It acted like the keg was kicking with a bunch of foam and spitting. I’d shake it. Get a glass. Same thing. I tried CO2 through liquid post to clean out but same result. It was a simple blond ale so I ended up just opening it up and putting in a standard dip tube. The next time I put a hazy in it and got the same thing. Luckily I shook the keg a bit and fixed it because I really didn’t want to open that one up and expose it to oxygen.

But it made me think if I’m using FDTs and filter on the transfers is there really any need to use a FDT in the serving keg? Things should be pretty well filtered in there

I only ferment in kegs with floating dips, but I do run into this quite a bit when transferring. I have to lean the keg a bit to get the tube to pick up the beer. The closer to the bottom I get, the more I have to lean the keg in different directions. One of the kegs has a tube with a little stainless screw on it to weigh it down, doesn't seem to have too much of an impact.
I can try to cut it a little, but it may not reach the bottom that way...
I'm going to try FlotIt v2 here soon, so hopefully that fixes it for me.

 

[balrog]

+1 to @Dgallo and @ihavenonickname about the length of the tubing.
I've always had to trim the tubing, using water test and watching.

 

[secretlevel]

+1 to @Dgallo and @ihavenonickname about the length of the tubing.
I've always had to trim the tubing, using water test and watching.

How much are you guys trimming off the tube? It's hard to see what's happening in the keg, but I could see there being a tiny bit of slack.

 

[balrog]

How much are you guys trimming off the tube? It's hard to see what's happening in the keg, but I could see there being a tiny bit of slack.

I assemble the thing, install it on the short dip tube (generally part of the purchased system) and see where it lies.
I trim the tubing until I like how it looks, reaching the bottom but just barely.
I pour a couple quarts litres water in the keg, seal and blow it out to see where it ends up, sometimes trimming a little more.
Each keg is different since some are lowest on the side (straight dip tube) and some kegs are lowest in the center (most cases).
The amount trimmed depends on the keg and the device purchased as I've tried 3 different ones, and they come with varying lengths of tubing.

 

[Langerz]

I had the tubing being too long problem early on but trimmed things so there is just a bit of slack when it's sitting on the bottom. Not enough to push the open end out of the liquid. I'm also pretty sure it's not #3 on Dgallo's list since the filter would make that pretty impossible to happen if I'm understanding it right. So I'm guessing #1. Other than the one time on this latest keg it hasn't been a problem so hoping it's gone a way.

Overall on transferring I think I'm pretty solid. I haven't had any indication of oxidation for as long as I've had a NEIPA on tap. They aren't on tap one but a recent two weeks of work travel to Mexico and India kept the latest one on tap longer than normal. That said for anyone considering big mouth bubblers I would not recommend it. I made my own lid similar to Dgallo in this thread for the big mouth to do closed transfers. The challenge is I always need to give it just a bit of pressure to get it started. (I know some are going to say I'm crazy for doing that on a big mouth bubbler) and the pressure often pops the lid for an instant. I just upgrade fermenters to a stainless though and I'm excited to try that for the next brew.

 

[CyberFox]

I only ferment in kegs with floating dips, but I do run into this quite a bit when transferring. I have to lean the keg a bit to get the tube to pick up the beer. The closer to the bottom I get, the more I have to lean the keg in different directions. One of the kegs has a tube with a little stainless screw on it to weigh it down, doesn't seem to have too much of an impact.
I can try to cut it a little, but it may not reach the bottom that way...
I'm going to try FlotIt v2 here soon, so hopefully that fixes it for me.

The FLOTit 2.0 is awesome! I ferment in kegs and it has worked flawlessly. It also barely leaves any beer behind. Seriously, just get one!

How much are you guys trimming off the tube? It's hard to see what's happening in the keg, but I could see there being a tiny bit of slack.

The Ebay page says that the ideal length of tubing is "the distance from the liquid post’s opening to the keg’s bottom + 75% of the keg’s diameter." That's what I cut it to and it works perfectly. I also told the seller that I had a 6 gallon keg and he sent me a longer length of tubing.

 

[Shenanigans]

Hey Guys,
I want to brew another NEIPA soon.
I have the capability to mash enough grains for 10 gallons but only want 5 gallons NEIPA.
Have any of you every split the wort from an NEIPA and used the other half for another type of beer?

I was thinking of some kind of Belgian yeast with about 30 IBUs but would be open to other ideas.

Thanks!

 

[Langerz]

Hey Guys,
I want to brew another NEIPA soon.
I have the capability to mash enough grains for 10 gallons but only want 5 gallons NEIPA.
Have any of you every split the wort from an NEIPA and used the other half for another type of beer?

I was thinking of some kind of Belgian yeast with about 30 IBUs but would be open to other ideas.

Thanks!

Definitely interested in thoughts here. I'm soon upgrading from 5 gallon to 10 gallon brewing. I'm kind of in a spot where overall I can't brew enough with 5 gallons to keep up, but I probably also don't go through NEIPAs fast enough for 10 gallons to be fresh.

My plan had been to do 10 of other styles I'm not as concerned with freshness and still do 5 gallons for NEIPAs. I think I like your idea better though. Seems like you'd likely have to do two boils which would make a longer brew day since my boils hops are a lot different with any other style but seem doable.

 

[hopfenstopfen]

Hey Guys,
I want to brew another NEIPA soon.
I have the capability to mash enough grains for 10 gallons but only want 5 gallons NEIPA.

Have any of you every split the wort from an NEIPA and used the other half for another type of beer?

I was thinking of some kind of Belgian yeast with about 30 IBUs but would be open to other ideas.

Thanks!

Ferment the other half with a Cali strain or 34/70!!! See @ihavenonickname ’s New/Modern West Coast IPA. A head to head comparison might be fun.

 

[Beerdrinker85]

Hey Guys,

First time using Nectaron here (got 1 lbs), got some cryo citra/mosaic/simcoe and I7/el dorado T90

Is nectaron more citrus or tropical fruit? All Nectaron in the DH?

Thanks

 

[Dgallo]

Hey Guys,
I want to brew another NEIPA soon.
I have the capability to mash enough grains for 10 gallons but only want 5 gallons NEIPA.
Have any of you every split the wort from an NEIPA and used the other half for another type of beer?

I was thinking of some kind of Belgian yeast with about 30 IBUs but would be open to other ideas.

Thanks!

Could always do a mash with the base grains and then steep specialty grains. I do this sometimes will wilds. I’ll make 8 gallons of NEIPA wort and split it at flame out, I’ll dilute the 2-2.5 extra gallons to do a brett’d beer and use the remaining for my ipa

 

[ihavenonickname]

Ferment the other half with a Cali strain or 34/70!!! See @ihavenonickname ’s New/Modern West Coast IPA. A head to head comparison might be fun.

Yeah it’s fun to think through split batch options. I’d love to hear what other people do. The easiest things for using the same wort and just one boil is to just pitch different yeasts. For IPA wort doing east coast/west coast actually works surprisingly well, the beers are distinct but both good. The other split I like is just pitching a saison yeast into half of it. IPA wort makes a good saison. You can also water back post boil to dilute part of the wort - I really like this method. Make a neipa but then dilute half the wort to 1.050 for a saison then plus or minus the dry hop. I’ve only done with with west coast wort but the wheat and oats in a neipa would do well too (tho you might want to go with a higher than usual hot side IBU.
Another idea I’ve had is for the second 5 gallons half of neipa just don’t dry hop it right away. Let it ferment out as usual and then just let it sit for a few extra weeks (maybe months?) sealed and 02 free. Then dry hop and proceed with normal practices. I think this would really address the freshness issue.

 

[Shenanigans]

Hey Guys,
I want to brew another NEIPA soon.
I have the capability to mash enough grains for 10 gallons but only want 5 gallons NEIPA.
Have any of you every split the wort from an NEIPA and used the other half for another type of beer?

I was thinking of some kind of Belgian yeast with about 30 IBUs but would be open to other ideas.

Thanks!

Thanks for the suggestions so far.
The Brett/Wild option sounds promising; I have some WLP650 here that I could co-pitch with something or even do 100% Brett.
Also use up some of the hops that I don't normally use for IPAs.

@Langerz my plan is indeed to do two separate boils.
I have several kettles that can handel 5 gallons or more, so apart from the extra cleaning it wouldn't take much longer than boiling 10 gallons at once.
Come to think of it the two 5 gallon batches come to the boil quicker than the 10 gallon batch in one kettle.
Sometimes I have 3 kettles running at the same time which can get a bit sporty if all 3 beers have multiple hop additions.

 

[secretlevel]

Thanks for the suggestions so far.
The Brett/Wild option sounds promising; I have some WLP650 here that I could co-pitch with something or even do 100% Brett.
Also use up some of the hops that I don't normally use for IPAs.

@Langerz my plan is indeed to do two separate boils.
I have several kettles that can handel 5 gallons or more, so apart from the extra cleaning it wouldn't take much longer than boiling 10 gallons at once.
Come to think of it the two 5 gallon batches come to the boil quicker than the 10 gallon batch in one kettle.
Sometimes I have 3 kettles running at the same time which can get a bit sporty if all 3 beers have multiple hop additions.

If you haven't played a game called Overcooked, I think you'll love it. You basically scramble to make multiple dishes at the same time while dodging obstacles, sometimes with multiple people involved. It can make or break friendships

 

[Shenanigans]

If you haven't played a game called Overcooked, I think you'll love it. You basically scramble to make multiple dishes at the same time while dodging obstacles, sometimes with multiple people involved. It can make or break friendships

Sounds like a typical brew day for me, the obsticles being whatever I have used earlier and not tidied away yet.
All because I have a limited number of days I can brew so I try to fit in as many beers as I can.

 

[Dgallo]

.