New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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4.5 weeks?! I made a DIPA featuring Nectaron recently that was definitely mellowing out after 7 days. I dry hopped at ~1oz/gal with Nectaron and 1oz/gal of Citra+Mosaic (LUPOMAX) and used my standard dry hopping practices (soft crash and dump yeast, two dry hop charges at 58F, dumping in-between, cold crash and biofine for two days, package). Do you think its hop bite (astringency/burn/spiciness)? If so, do you drop yeast before dry hopping? What temperature? How did you source the Nectaron?
 
Man I kegged my Citra/Nectaron NEIPA 4.5 weeks ago and it's still undrinkably bitter and harsh. A very similar recipe with all Mosaic was ready way sooner. Anyone else have this experience with Nectaron? I've only had it with Galxaxy, Vic Secret and Idaho 7.
How are you dryhoping?
 
4.5 weeks?! I made a DIPA featuring Nectaron recently that was definitely mellowing out after 7 days. I dry hopped at ~1oz/gal with Nectaron and 1oz/gal of Citra+Mosaic (LUPOMAX) and used my standard dry hopping practices (soft crash and dump yeast, two dry hop charges at 58F, dumping in-between, cold crash and biofine for two days, package). Do you think its hop bite (astringency/burn/spiciness)? If so, do you drop yeast before dry hopping? What temperature? How did you source the Nectaron?
How are you dryhoping?
Here's my dry hopping routine:
Soft crash to 54 degrees for 24 hrs
Let it rise back to low-mid 60's for 24 hrs
Add dry hop #1 (4 oz citra, 2 oz nectaron) for 24 hrs
Add dry hop #2 (2 oz citra, 2 oz nectaron) for 24 hrs
Cold crash for 48 hrs
Keg

Nectaron is from YVH. It's definitely hop burn, I've had this before with the other hops I mentioned. I've had a small number beers with potent hops that took 4-6 weeks to condition, but they ended up being some of my best ever. My average is probably 2-4 weeks, and I'm pleasantly surprised when my NEIPAs are ready at 2 weeks or less. I also really hate any sort of hop burn, like I've noticed in a lot of Tree House beers, so I know some people enjoy it. Anyway, this beer is still taking longer than I expected.
 
Here's my dry hopping routine:
Soft crash to 54 degrees for 24 hrs
Let it rise back to low-mid 60's for 24 hrs
Add dry hop #1 (4 oz citra, 2 oz nectaron) for 24 hrs
Add dry hop #2 (2 oz citra, 2 oz nectaron) for 24 hrs
Cold crash for 48 hrs
Keg

Nectaron is from YVH. It's definitely hop burn, I've had this before with the other hops I mentioned. I've had a small number beers with potent hops that took 4-6 weeks to condition, but they ended up being some of my best ever. My average is probably 2-4 weeks, and I'm pleasantly surprised when my NEIPAs are ready at 2 weeks or less. I also really hate any sort of hop burn, like I've noticed in a lot of Tree House beers, so I know some people enjoy it. Anyway, this beer is still taking longer than I expected.
With your process of warming the beer back up during dryhoping, I’d suspect that’s your cause. In my experience, most Southern Hemisphere varieties when used heavy in dryhop at temps where yeast can be active will cause hopburn.
 
Here's my dry hopping routine:
Soft crash to 54 degrees for 24 hrs
Let it rise back to low-mid 60's for 24 hrs
Add dry hop #1 (4 oz citra, 2 oz nectaron) for 24 hrs
Add dry hop #2 (2 oz citra, 2 oz nectaron) for 24 hrs
Cold crash for 48 hrs
Keg

Nectaron is from YVH. It's definitely hop burn, I've had this before with the other hops I mentioned. I've had a small number beers with potent hops that took 4-6 weeks to condition, but they ended up being some of my best ever. My average is probably 2-4 weeks, and I'm pleasantly surprised when my NEIPAs are ready at 2 weeks or less. I also really hate any sort of hop burn, like I've noticed in a lot of Tree House beers, so I know some people enjoy it. Anyway, this beer is still taking longer than I expected.

Agreed with @Dgallo - if you can get the beer off the yeast without introducing O2 prior to dry hopping, that would shorten your conditioning time a ton and allow you to keep the same time/temp schedule. I’ve had this issue before with Galaxy and recirculating with a little yeast still in the tank. Once I started removing all yeast prior to dry hopping, hop burn has been a thing of the past. 2-4 weeks of conditioning… you’re patient!
 
Agreed with @Dgallo - if you can get the beer off the yeast without introducing O2 prior to dry hopping, that would shorten your conditioning time a ton and allow you to keep the same time/temp schedule. I’ve had this issue before with Galaxy and recirculating with a little yeast still in the tank. Once I started removing all yeast prior to dry hopping, hop burn has been a thing of the past. 2-4 weeks of conditioning… you’re patient!

I could see that with Galaxy, being 14-16% AA and high Cohumulone, but Nectaron is usually <10% AA, which this a very weird phenomenon.
 
I could see that with Galaxy, being 14-16% AA and high Cohumulone, but Nectaron is usually <10% AA, which this a very weird phenomenon.
Well hopburn has nothing to do with the alpha acids, it the polyphenol content of the hops and Southern Hemisphere hops tend to have a elevated levels of polyphenol
 
With your process of warming the beer back up during dryhoping, I’d suspect that’s your cause. In my experience, most Southern Hemisphere varieties when used heavy in dryhop at temps where yeast can be active will cause hopburn.
That's interesting, when I've dry hopped in the 50's I notice my hops just sink right away and I get less aroma overall. Do you think cool + rousing is more important than not sinking? I've actually skipped the soft crash all together a few times lately and didn't really notice a difference in quality. I totally agree with the southern hemisphere comment though, I basically stopped using Galaxy all together, or only in very low quantities. I hadn't really considered Nectaron might be similar.

I also might just be really sensitive to hop burn. I got to try Monkish for the first time yesterday - Foggier Window, a 4.45 beer untappd w/ Citra, Galaxy & Nelson, and I didn't really enjoy it that much because I picked up some hop burn. Same thing with a lot of Tree House beers.
Agreed with @Dgallo - if you can get the beer off the yeast without introducing O2 prior to dry hopping, that would shorten your conditioning time a ton and allow you to keep the same time/temp schedule. I’ve had this issue before with Galaxy and recirculating with a little yeast still in the tank. Once I started removing all yeast prior to dry hopping, hop burn has been a thing of the past. 2-4 weeks of conditioning… you’re patient!
lol I guess I am patient, I've never understood the grain to glass in 7 or 14 day posts. Unfortunately I can't remove yeast, I'm using the modified fermonster. My hope is that this beer will be super potent and delicious in another week or so, which is what I've seen with southern hemisphere hops in the past.
 
I'd guess that preventing hop burn could be assisted by use of cryo hops? Or do the polyphenols just get concentrated and have the same effect in the end?
Also - I have referenced Yakima Chief and similar charts regarding hops survivables and they mention a lot of detail but not polyphenol. Is that a thing on its own, or a category? if a category, what on the charts are the polyphenols to look out for? Geraniol, linalool, etc.?
 
lol I guess I am patient, I've never understood the grain to glass in 7 or 14 day posts. Unfortunately I can't remove yeast, I'm using the modified fermonster. My hope is that this beer will be super potent and delicious in another week or so, which is what I've seen with southern hemisphere hops in the past.
Have you tried dropping the temp to 58-60 for soft crash and dry hopping at the same temp (after a few days)? I don’t have evidence for this, but I think the act of warming is what gets the yeast going rather the empirical temp (within some unknown window). I suspect there is a sweet spot with your setup where you can get the best of both worlds - low yeast interaction and suspended dry hops. 60F is sufficient to drop LA3 and it’s variants out of suspension in my hands. A lot of people have success with dry hopping at the tail end of fermentation but I can’t speak to it as this isn’t my process.
 
I'd guess that preventing hop burn could be assisted by use of cryo hops? Or do the polyphenols just get concentrated and have the same effect in the end?
Also - I have referenced Yakima Chief and similar charts regarding hops survivables and they mention a lot of detail but not polyphenol. Is that a thing on its own, or a category? if a category, what on the charts are the polyphenols to look out for? Geraniol, linalool, etc.?
Polyphenols are primarily produced in plant leaves (bracts on hops). Very little in terms of biosynthesis in lupulin glands, so cryo(like) products should be significantly reduced in polyphenol content compared to T90.

Edited for clarity
 
I'd guess that preventing hop burn could be assisted by use of cryo hops? Or do the polyphenols just get concentrated and have the same effect in the end?
Also - I have referenced Yakima Chief and similar charts regarding hops survivables and they mention a lot of detail but not polyphenol. Is that a thing on its own, or a category? if a category, what on the charts are the polyphenols to look out for? Geraniol, linalool, etc.?
Polyphenols are specific to the actually green plant material, so by using t45 pellets, cryo/CGX/LUPOMAX, you certain limit the polyphenols
 
That's interesting, when I've dry hopped in the 50's I notice my hops just sink right away and I get less aroma overall. Do you think cool + rousing is more important than not sinking? I've actually skipped the soft crash all together a few times lately and didn't really notice a difference in quality. I totally agree with the southern hemisphere comment though, I basically stopped using Galaxy all together, or only in very low quantities. I hadn't really considered Nectaron might be similar.
I think low yeast count, dryhoping in mid 50s to greatly limit yeast activity, and rousing, makes a huge difference. One of the comments i routinely get about my ipas is how much aroma they have and how bright the hop character is. I know my process to keep o2 out definitely plays a big roll but a lot of the intensity of the aroma and flavor I think comes from my dryhoping process
 
Have you tried dropping the temp to 58-60 for soft crash and dry hopping at the same temp (after a few days)? I don’t have evidence for this, but I think the act of warming is what gets the yeast going rather the empirical temp (within some unknown window). I suspect there is a sweet spot with your setup where you can get the best of both worlds - low yeast interaction and suspended dry hops. 60F is sufficient to drop LA3 and it’s variants out of suspension in my hands. A lot of people have success with dry hopping at the tail end of fermentation but I can’t speak to it as this isn’t my process.
Well what keeps the hop pellets floating is actually the yeast activity and co2, not purely the temperature. When the temp drops the yeast slow down and the co2 has an easier time dissolving in the beer. When this happens, most of the hops will sink to the bottom
 
Well what keeps the hop pellets floating is actually the yeast activity and co2, not purely the temperature. When the temp drops the yeast slow down and the co2 has an easier time dissolving in the beer. When this happens, most of the hops will sink to the bottom
I’ve done dry hopping under pressure (8-10 psi), with no yeast (cold crash then drop from the unitank), and then raise to 65+, dry hops will stay suspended. Is this bc CO2 is coming out of solution?
 
I’ve done dry hopping under pressure (8-10 psi), with no yeast (cold crash then drop from the unitank), and then raise to 65+, dry hops will stay suspended. Is this bc CO2 is coming out of solution?
It’s most likely both yeast and co2 escaping solution as it warms. Though you cold crash and dumped the flocced yeast, there iastill plenty of yeast cells, millions most likely, still in suspension. So once it warms up and they will start going again
 
I’ve done dry hopping under pressure (8-10 psi), with no yeast (cold crash then drop from the unitank), and then raise to 65+, dry hops will stay suspended. Is this bc CO2 is coming out of solution?

Having used a Fermonster, most hops appear to stay in suspension at 53F+, which is why I think it's the "perfect" temperature for dry hopping. This isn't under pressure, so that may push the hops down a bit.

On a different note - warming beer back up after crashing out the yeast is a weird notion IMO. You're effectively crashing out most of the yeast, then introducing the diastase enzyme via dry hop, at which point you get further yeast activity (hop creep), but now there may not be enough viable yeast to clean up the diacetyl from the added yeast activity. What North Park does to remedy this is add a tiny dry hop at the very tail end of fermentation to get hop creep ahead of time and prevent any refermentation in cans down the road.
 
Having used a Fermonster, most hops appear to stay in suspension at 53F+, which is why I think it's the "perfect" temperature for dry hopping. This isn't under pressure, so that may push the hops down a bit.

On a different note - warming beer back up after crashing out the yeast is a weird notion IMO. You're effectively crashing out most of the yeast, then introducing the diastase enzyme via dry hop, at which point you get further yeast activity (hop creep), but now there may not be enough viable yeast to clean up the diacetyl from the added yeast activity. What North Park does to remedy this is add a tiny dry hop at the very tail end of fermentation to get hop creep ahead of time and prevent any refermentation in cans down the road.
Interesting. My normal process is to soft crash to 50 and let it sit at 50 for 36hrs (not including cooling times to get it there), then I gently let it rise to ~54-56F and dry hop at that temp. Does the yeast come back up in suspension for me? Dunno, not that is visible anyways but that doesn't mean its not happening. But I've also not experienced any hop creep at all that I can detect via any off flavors or any drop in gravity anyways. Not sure if this matters to the convo here, but I also am pretty conservative when I do the soft crash. I typically take my hydro sample when there are zero visual signs of fermentation left, including zero krausen. Then I wait another day for good measure before I soft crash. So I don't rush into the soft crash and try to make sure that the yeast are done done done lol. So Im typically dry hopping around day 11 or 12ish and kegging around 14-15 days on average.
 
Having used a Fermonster, most hops appear to stay in suspension at 53F+, which is why I think it's the "perfect" temperature for dry hopping. This isn't under pressure, so that may push the hops down a bit.

On a different note - warming beer back up after crashing out the yeast is a weird notion IMO. You're effectively crashing out most of the yeast, then introducing the diastase enzyme via dry hop, at which point you get further yeast activity (hop creep), but now there may not be enough viable yeast to clean up the diacetyl from the added yeast activity. What North Park does to remedy this is add a tiny dry hop at the very tail end of fermentation to get hop creep ahead of time and prevent any refermentation in cans down the road.
Not sure if I mentioned this, but I have a conical, so most yeast is removed (excluding what is left in suspension - one of these days I will have to count with my microscope). I usually add a small dry drop charge around 50% attenuation, similar to the "tail end of Ferm dry hop". I have also been using ALDC for the past year. Never had diacetyl issues and hop burn was addressed by being more thorough in yeast removal. I like what a warmer dry hop does for some hop cultivars depending on what I'm going for. I still keep it short 24-48hrs max.
 
And to be clear, I am not advocating for universal warm dry hopping. I only do it when I'm going for a specific aroma character. Most NEIPA's that I make are dry hopped at ~55F. But I will straight up cold crash before dry hopping. Down to 37F.
 
First keg tap of NEIPA w/nectaron, along with mosaic & azecca. Good and will get better. Diesel strong, but reading earlier posts about southern hemisphere hops confirms what I have experienced for most of my SH use. This will mellow out over time, but I just can’t wait.
 

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Having used a Fermonster, most hops appear to stay in suspension at 53F+, which is why I think it's the "perfect" temperature for dry hopping. This isn't under pressure, so that may push the hops down a bit.

On a different note - warming beer back up after crashing out the yeast is a weird notion IMO. You're effectively crashing out most of the yeast, then introducing the diastase enzyme via dry hop, at which point you get further yeast activity (hop creep), but now there may not be enough viable yeast to clean up the diacetyl from the added yeast activity. What North Park does to remedy this is add a tiny dry hop at the very tail end of fermentation to get hop creep ahead of time and prevent any refermentation in cans down the road.
Or you can add Aldc with your dry hop.
 
On a different note - warming beer back up after crashing out the yeast is a weird notion IMO.
That is what I tried with my last two NEIPA batches. I think it was based on a suggestion here. I felt those two might have been my best executed batches. They had very limited hop burn or astringency but plenty of hop flavors and aroma. Unfortunately, one was dominated by Sabro character (I just don't think I am a fan of that hop) and the other was too thiol heavy from the use of Helio Gazer (though that batch did have a smaller than normal dry hop amount).

I do also like the idea of adding a small amount of hops earlier in fermentation. The reasoning seems solid...if you introduce the enzymes early in the process they have time to work while there is plenty of healthy yeast. I just added a pair of Tilt hydrometers to my equipment, so those might help give me a better view of what hop creep I am actually seeing.
 
That is what I tried with my last two NEIPA batches. I think it was based on a suggestion here. I felt those two might have been my best executed batches. They had very limited hop burn or astringency but plenty of hop flavors and aroma. Unfortunately, one was dominated by Sabro character (I just don't think I am a fan of that hop) and the other was too thiol heavy from the use of Helio Gazer (though that batch did have a smaller than normal dry hop amount).

I do also like the idea of adding a small amount of hops earlier in fermentation. The reasoning seems solid...if you introduce the enzymes early in the process they have time to work while there is plenty of healthy yeast. I just added a pair of Tilt hydrometers to my equipment, so those might help give me a better view of what hop creep I am actually seeing.
I can’t imagine going back to life before the Tilt 😂 such a great tool for the cellar. I just wish they could do more than just temp and SG. Can’t wait for something that can measure pH in real time.
 
What’s everybody’s favorite combo with Nelson. Got a good batch from Yakima and don’t want to waste it
Nelson/Citra
Nelson/strata (Citra works well too)
Nelson/Motueka
Nelson/Nelson lol
Nelson/mosaic/enigma - this one was really cool and actually scored me my highest ipa score in a region comp, 43 (ipa category had 25-30 beers, can’t remember the exact number)
 
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What’s everybody’s favorite combo with Nelson. Got a good batch from Yakima and don’t want to waste it
I've brewed a ton as well with nelson:

Citra/Strata/Nelson
Citra/Nectaron/Nelson
Nelson/Riwaka
Moutere/Riwaka/Nelson
Nelson/Riwaka/Galaxy

So give the past few posts, if you are unsure: start with Citra and Nelson and then throw in another hop that peeps have mentioned: Riwaka, Nectaron, Strata, Mosaic etc...or just add more nelson lol
 
First keg tap of NEIPA w/nectaron, along with mosaic & azecca. Good and will get better. Diesel strong, but reading earlier posts about southern hemisphere hops confirms what I have experienced for most of my SH use. This will mellow out over time, but I just can’t wait.
Dry hop should be no longer than 2 days for Southern Hemisphere hops or else you get the nothing but diesel dank.
Nelson/Citra
Nelson/strata (Citra works well too)
Nelson/Motueka
Nelson/Nelson lol
Nelson/mosaic/enigma - this one was so was really cool and actually scored me my highest ipa score in a region comp, 43 (ipa category had 25-30 beers, can’t the exact number)
100% Nelson totally agree.
 
What’s everybody’s favorite combo with Nelson. Got a good batch from Yakima and don’t want to waste it
You cannot go wrong with Citra and Nelson. Also Citra, Nelson and Nectaron is also amazing. I won gold with that one in our National Homebrew competition a few weeks ago.
 
Man I kegged my Citra/Nectaron NEIPA 4.5 weeks ago and it's still undrinkably bitter and harsh. A very similar recipe with all Mosaic was ready way sooner. Anyone else have this experience with Nectaron? I've only had it with Galxaxy, Vic Secret and Idaho 7.
Well just shy of 5 weeks in the keg and my Citra/Nectaron NEIPA is ****ing delicious, super pungent dank tropical fruit. A completely different beer than just 2 days ago. Full report and recipe soon.
 
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