"Northeast" style IPA, what you guys think??

[nus_99]

Juicy "Northeast" style IPA (partial mash)

6 row malt 1 Lb
flaked wheat 1 Lb
briess carapils 1 Lb

spike water around 152 for 60 mins

Heat sparging water to 168

Boil total will be 6 gallons

Golden Light DME 1 Lbs 60 mins
Golden Light DME 5 Lbs 15 mins
Amarillo 1 oz 30 mins
Amarillo 1 oz Dry Hop
Simcoe 2 oz Dry Hop
Citra 1 oz 5 mins
Citra 1 oz Dry Hop
Yeast Nutrient .50 tsp 10 mins
Irish Moss 1 tsp. 10 mins
Fermcap 6 drops First thing (brew pot)
Fermcap 3 drops First thing (primary fermenter)
London III

Primary 2 weeks, Seconadry 3 weeks
two weeks before bottling
1 oz simcoe .5 citra .5 amarillo
one week brefore bottling
1 oz simcoe .5 citra .5 amarillo

Going for a little more "murky" fruity ipa with a strong aroma and smoother finish.

Thanks guys!

 

[Schecter]

I wouldn't do a secondary at all, especially not for that long while aiming for a strong aroma. It won't clear out the haze from your flaked wheat, if that's what you're aiming for.
I would do your primary for 10-14 days and your dry hop split between 8 days total. Also, personally, I'd move some of your dry hop to flameout addition (which I would do instead of a 5 minute addition).
Otherwise I like the hop combination, I'm not sure what your IBUs will be with just an ounce of Amarillo at 30 minutes, you may want to adjust to up it a bit (maybe a 45 minute? Depends on your goal and the AA of the hop).

Just my thoughts.

Cheers

 

[nus_99]

I plan on adjusting to your suggestions, I'm definitely not trying to clear out the haze, i want the hazy look. I will do only a primary and move my hops around a bit. The reason I have only 30 mins on the Amarillo is because I have read a bunch about adding late DME additions make your hops much more efficient and im just really going for a strong aroma with a smooth almost creamy finish. I will move up some dry hop to flameout though. Thank you for the information!

Cheers!

 

[nus_99]

Here are the adjustments I'm going to make, thanks again!

6 row malt 1 Lb
flaked wheat .5 Lb
flaked oats .5 Lb
briess carapils 1 Lb


Water Profile RO water
Calcium Chloride 1 tsp Per 5 gallons of water
Gypsum 1/2 tsp Per 5 gallons of water


Fermcap 6 drops First thing (brew pot)
Light DME 1 Lbs Bring to boil
Amarillo .5 oz 45 mins
Amarillo .5 oz 30 mins
Light DME 5 Lbs 15 mins
Irish Moss 1 tsp. 10 mins
Yeast Nutrient .50 tsp 10 mins
Citra 1 oz 5 mins
Citra .5 oz Flameout
Amarillo .5 oz Flameout
Simcoe 1 oz Flameout
Citra .5 oz Dry Hop
Amarillo .5 oz Dry Hop
Simcoe 1 oz Dry Hop

Primary 14 days
at day 6 add
.5 oz simcoe .5 citra .5 amarillo
at day 10 add
.5 oz simcoe .5 citra .5 amarillo

 

[Schecter]

Better hop utilization in a thinner wort makes sense; in either case I'm sure the bitterness will be fine.
Don't take my word as law for hop scheduling, many different ways to produce a great IPA. My suggestion comes from personal experience as well as much reading regarding hop bombs. That being said, I like your new schedule.
Regarding your dry hop schedule, I meant dry hop on day 14/18, and package day 22. However it isn't abnormal for brewers to begin dry hopping before fermentation is complete. Some say the gas activity pushes out aroma, but I don't know of any evidence to this. When I use Conan I dry hop earlier to try and avoid losing any aroma from it sitting (love those esters it gives off), so maybe you're on to something by starting at day 6!
I wouldn't stress any; your recipe looks great.
For future brews, try out some mosaic. If you haven't had the pleasure of using it yet, I think you'll enjoy it based on your hop choices here.

Good luck,

Cheers

 

[nus_99]

I understand that its all a personal preference/experience thing when it comes to some of this, but personally I have done way way more reading then I have done actual brewing at this point so any advice/information is always welcomed! As far as the dry hopping, I get what your saying now, I will probably push it back a little, I don't know if I like the idea of throwing hops in while its fermenting still... Maybe another batch I will experiment with that. I have been able to use mosaic and it just about made it into this batch... Maybe my next go. Thanks again, I will post a pic/tasting notes when its all said and done!

Cheers!

 

[nus_99]

I do have one question, why do you suggest no secondary? Is it because of the particular beer i'm brewing or do you just not suggest them at all? I understand the + and - of doing either method I was just curious on your reasoning. Thanks!

 

[Schecter]

Talk of secondaries is a huge can of worms. The general accepted idea is they are not necessary for the most part...if you need to rack the beer onto fruit or oak chips or what have you, then you have the need for a secondary. For an IPA, the chance of oxidation from an unnecessary racking out weighs the potential benefit of removing the beer from yeast/hops (although, I don't believe these benefits to be valid). To be honest, I brewed a RIS and left it in primary for 6 months. I bottled it and 3 months later it was phenomenal. I will never use a secondary unless, like I said, I'm doing it for an addition.

 

[nus_99]

I have always wondered, and I have read a lot of different posts and it all comes out 50/50 some people swear by it and others say screw that. I'm going to take your word for it and only primary for the most part. Thanks for the info.

 

[Adaman05]

I have always wondered, and I have read a lot of different posts and it all comes out 50/50 some people swear by it and others say screw that. I'm going to take your word for it and only primary for the most part. Thanks for the info.

I see no need to ever use a secondary with an IPA. Unless you wanted to add some funky fruit or something to it. Even still, I either dry hop directly in the primary or in the keg. No need to move it to another vessel and risk oxidation.

 

[nus_99]

I see no need to ever use a secondary with an IPA. Unless you wanted to add some funky fruit or something to it. Even still, I either dry hop directly in the primary or in the keg. No need to move it to another vessel and risk oxidation.

That's what I always kind of wondered if the risk of oxidation was higher then the risk of any off flavors from sitting on the trub or things like that in the primary. Thanks for the advice guys.

 

[Schecter]

That's what I always kind of wondered if the risk of oxidation was higher then the risk of any off flavors from sitting on the trub or things like that in the primary. Thanks for the advice guys.

Just to further on that for you, the trub should only be 3 main things; the hops, the yeast, and condensed protein (which is what you see dropping during the post-boil cold crash).

Prolonging time on the trub would be bad if there was anything bad in the trub. Hops you can filter out if they are in abundance (avoid grassy, vegetal notes), the yeast should be fine and dormant (NOT dead) if they were handled properly and fermentation temperatures were in check, and the protein has only been shown to be beneficial to yeast health and in turn quality of finished beer.

Can you guess which side of the fence I am on regarding secondaries?

Cheers

 

[nus_99]

After doing a little more research and thinking, I decided to ramp up my flameout and dry hop numbers by a lot. really want that strong aroma, here is an updated list.

Fermcap 6 drops First thing (brew pot)
Light DME 1 Lbs Bring to boil
Amarillo 1 oz 35 mins
Simcoe 1 oz 30 mins
Light DME 5 Lbs 15 mins
Irish Moss 1 tsp. 10 mins
Yeast Nutrient .50 tsp 10 mins
Citra 1 oz Flameout
Amarillo 1 oz Flameout

Drop temp to 160 and add 2 oz Simcoe, whirpool let stand for 30 mins,
contiune cooling after 30 mins

Citra 1 oz Dry Hop
Simcoe 4 oz Dry Hop

Primary 21 days
at day 13 add
2 oz simcoe .5 citra
at day 17 add
2 oz simcoe .5 citra

 

[Schecter]

You're up to a pound of hops; watch out for grassy notes. This will come from exposure time from hops and amount of hops. A large amount of hops means a lot of great aromatic oils and bitterness, but with those benefits comes a lot of vegetal matter. If you can whirlpool to get a trub cone in the middle of your kettle and siphon from the sides once cooled, you should be able to avoid grassy notes. A lot of people say dump it all straight in...I'm not going to argue yet another age old debate. I personally always get grassy notes when I dump all the wort in the fermenter for my double IPAs (clone variations of heady topper, so up to a pound usually).
Your original recipe looked good.
Your first revision looked great.
Your second revision is also great.
Just depends what you want!
I usually build hops up from one recipe to the next rather than cutting them down. I used to use the other approach and was severely disappointed when I achieved grassy notes, astringency, or both. Id rather have a hoppy pale ale than a too-hoppy double IPA.
If you're getting into hop stands and whatnot, begin to look at certain oil concentrations within each hop and try to understand and balance them. There is an abundance of information regarding these topics here and elsewhere. Just remember to save your aromatics for 0 or your 160F stand; don't waste them prior to 30 (personally I say 10!)

Cheers

 

[nus_99]

Sounds good, I will go back to my first change... Love the information, I may add just a small amount of more hops but draw it back a lot closer to my first change. Really appreciate the tips. I still will post a pic and tasting notes when it's all done. Thanks again bud. Plan on brewing this weekend

Cheers

 

[nus_99]

Also, I want to say thanks again for all the info. I know it's just a partial mash and not all grain (im just not there yet) but i want to "master" (as much as possible) each step before I jump in to all grain... I like to be overly informed with each step, and I appreciate the time you guys give to a simple partial mash brewer at this point. Cheers.

 

[nus_99]

And I usually whirlpool and leave a lot of hop, cold break, etc. in the bottom, I never just dump. But like I said I may add an oz or two on my second change but whoa it back compared to my last to avoid the "grassy" flavor's...

 

[nus_99]

The brew is only a week bottle condition, but wow am I happy with the results so far... I usually open one bottle a week in because they are always drinkable and I love to taste them as it develops. As far as color its exactly what i was going for, murky orange. Aroma is fantastic, like a melon grapefruit juice... Excited for this beer as it conditions. Thanks again for all the great info. cheers! and sorry for the sideways pic i couldn't get it to rotate!

 

[Schecter]

Color is astounding, exactly what I aim for on my IPAs/IIPAs.

Glad it worked out for you!

 

[abbysdad2006]

All Grain conversion help?

 

[madscientistbrewNq]

What's the SRM on that beer? Looks great.

The brew is only a week bottle condition, but wow am I happy with the results so far... I usually open one bottle a week in because they are always drinkable and I love to taste them as it develops. As far as color its exactly what i was going for, murky orange. Aroma is fantastic, like a melon grapefruit juice... Excited for this beer as it conditions. Thanks again for all the great info. cheers! and sorry for the sideways pic i couldn't get it to rotate!

 

[rodvik]

Agree 100%. I used to rack to secondary when I first started all grain but through experience and experimentation I found racking to secondary a waste of time. Unless of course you are making substantial additions. Never on IPA. I've produced great beer in just using a primary fermentation vessel.

 

[Cavpilot2000]

OP: The beer looks great!
Also, if you want a variation next time, try Galaxy/Citra instead of Amarillo for that Mango/peach/passionfruit vibe. I did that with a little Simcoe in my NEIPA, and it turned out fantastic. I was going for along the lines of Treehouse's Green and Julius, and nailed it pretty well.