Noob Question

[Ghostnuke]

I looked all over for the answer to this, I apologize if I missed it or if this is a stupid question.

What kind of coupling do I need to hook up a cornelius keg to my kegerator or to force carb? I would like to get started brewing at home, and I'm trying to get together a list of all the equipment I need. I found lists for the major brands, (A, D, G, etc.) but nothing that talked about cornelius kegs.

Any help would be appreciated!

 

[Ghostnuke]

Anyone at all?

 

[Munsoned]

I'm not sure I understand the question. Do you have a kegerator that takes commercial sanke kegs, and you want to convert it for use with corny kegs? If so, you just need a conversion kit. Check kegconnection.com. They'll sort you out. Check the link for commercial/hombrew conversion (again, if I'm understanding you correctly).

 

[Ghostnuke]

I'm still new at all this, so bear with me

My plan is to have a kegerator with a 2x regulator so that I can have either a commercial keg/corny for drinking on one side, and a corny for drinking/force carbing on the other side.

My assumption was that I'd need a sankey coupler and another coupler for whatever cornelius kegs take. I'm probably making this harder than it needs to be, if someone could just walk me through the equipment needed for just a corny I think I could figure the rest out.

 

[Munsoned]

Corny keg needs:

1) Corny keg itself, which has two separate "posts," an in and out. Gas = in, beer = out. They are on the top of the corny, on opposite sides. There are two types of corny's, which signifies the types of posts they use: ball lock and pin lock. For simplicity, go with ball lock (pepsi-type), they are easier to find.

2) from the out posts on the corny, you will need post "quick disconnects." Typically one is black (beer/liquid), one is gray (gas). The simplist ones come with barbs that you just fit the hosing over. The quick disconnects just pop on and off the corny posts by hand.

3) stainless steel worm clamps (or some other type of clamp) to connect hoses to the (barbed) quick disconnects.

4) beverage hosing, and CO2 hosing.

5) beverage hosing goes to either a picnic tap or to a dedicated mounted tap (like a perlick). The CO2 hosing goes to your regulator (sometimes through a CO2 splitter or manifold). Make sure you have a "check valve" to prevent beer from traveling up that line.

Here is a thread that might be helpful in conceptualizing all of this: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/sticky-kegging-faqs-43347/

 

[Munsoned]

Another source, although it doesn't have a pic of the quick disconnects that fit over the keg posts...

http://www.brew-winemaking.com/ProductPDF/7738.pdf

 

[Ghostnuke]

Another source, although it doesn't have a pic of the quick disconnects that fit over the keg posts...

http://www.brew-winemaking.com/ProductPDF/7738.pdf

That's really helpful, thanks!

 

[Munsoned]

No prob! Just an FYI, there is a whole section of this website devoted to bottling and kegging. Lots of great info in there, including some on kegging vendors to avoid...

 

[bendavanza]

If you get the corny connects with MFL flared fittings, and the MFL conversions for a sankey coupler, it's easy to switch them out. otherwise you'll be fighting with barbs all the time. I think this should explain a lot http://draftbeerinfo.com/?p=133