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Noob aeration question

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OleEvinrude

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I will be brewing my 2nd extract kit today (dead ringer IPA). Ok, so I was thinking of straining my wort into a sanitized bottling bucket and transferring to primary via the spigot. In doing so, will I have enough aeration?
 
Why not just pour it the the primary using a funnel if necessary, should give you extra aeration as well.
 
If your doing an extract kit. Then you'll be adding 2.5 to 3 gallons of water to your carboy or bucket to make the full 5 gallons. The water you add will have enough air in it. If your doing an AG batch then you would need to aerate as everything is boiled. No need to go through extra steps. That means more cleaning.
 
Should you not aerate any batch of beer before pitching , even if your adding water ?
 
I only aerate when I do AG as almost all the oxygen has been boiled out. You can aerate partial mash or extract kits there's nothing wrong by doing that its just an extra step, cleaning and time. Plus to aerate I would use a pump with an air stone for about 20 min.
 
Why would all the o2 not be boiled out of a partial mash ? Im only on my 5th batch but I thought a.g. and partial both boiled hard for 60 mins or more ?
 
ifearnothing0 said:
Why would all the o2 not be boiled out of a partial mash ? Im only on my 5th batch but I thought a.g. and partial both boiled hard for 60 mins or more ?

Yes all O2 is boiled out and that is why you need to aerate the wort prior to pitying regardless if how you brew. The first phase of fermentation is the growth phase where the yeast eat the O2 and grow cells which is why aeration is so important. Lag time is directly related to the amount of O2 present as well as proper pitching rate. Inadequate pitch and lack of O2 are two of the first elements related to poor fermentation, stuck fermentations and production of off flavors due to stress on the yeast.
 
Boiling water drives out O2. If you boil all the water, you drive off virtually all of the O2. If you boil only part of the water, you drive off only part of the O2.

Either way, you want to get back up to full saturation. There are a bunch of ways to do that. eg pour back and forth, shake the heck out of it, aquarium bubbler, pure oxygen from a tank etc.
 
I'm sorry but why aren't you boiling all your water? Whether you're doing extract, partial or all grain it is still preferable to do full boils. That being said, for regular strength beers you want at least 7 or 8 ppm of oxygen. This happens to be about the most you can get from room temp water that has been sitting near sure, in other words not pumped with oxygen. Shaking/mixing/pumping normal air will only let you get to that level. Higher gravity beers need more dissolved oxygen and require pure o2 to get to that level. The point is adding 2 gallons of tap water to 3 gallons of boiled wort will not get you to 7 or 8 ppm.

Shake it up, never hurts.
 
I will be brewing my 2nd extract kit today (dead ringer IPA). Ok, so I was thinking of straining my wort into a sanitized bottling bucket and transferring to primary via the spigot. In doing so, will I have enough aeration?

Going back to the original post. "straining my wort into a sanitized bottling bucket and transferring to primary via the spigot." Seemed like a lot of extra work to aerate. When your already pouring wort over the added water in your carboy or bucket....... your aerating at that point and not even knowing it. :mug:
 
Irish13 said:
Going back to the original post. "straining my wort into a sanitized bottling bucket and transferring to primary via the spigot." Seemed like a lot of extra work to aerate. When your already pouring wort over the added water in your carboy or bucket....... your aerating at that point and not even knowing it. :mug:

I have seen this method being described as having good results. But when in doubt shake some more, you can't over oxygenate from shaking.
 
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