• If you have bought, sold or gained information from our Classifieds, please donate to HomeBrewTalk and give back.

    You can become a Supporting Member which comes with a decal or just click here to donate.

No longer for sale, false product description, and cords can be returned

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Yevmeister

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2010
Messages
105
Reaction score
1
Location
Illinois
FS

GFCI (ground fault circuit interruptor) built in . 12 gauge wire ideal for up to 5500watt 240v heating elements

i plug mine directly in electric stove outlet
5 available

$25 with free priority mail nationwide shipping

thanks

Yev

cord1.jpg


cord2.JPG
 
12 gauge is good for 25A
10 gauge is good for 25A-30A
Sorry. Amateur electrician here. I thought that with 12 gauge house wire you used a 20 amp breaker, but that must not apply here.

I have the 20 amp / 240 volt outlet for an air conditioner pictured below. I use it for brewing. If your cord work with it and offer GFCI protection I'll take one.

I'll be using a 3500W heater so will be drawing around 15 amps. Does the OP or anyone else know if this will work?

032664184109lg.jpg
 
3500watts @ 240vac is about 14.58 A

so yes it would work perfect, if you get my cable you would have to install different plug
or just install different outlet like this
install-electrical-outlet-800x800.jpg


Yev
 
Wouldn't want to replace the outlet because I still use it for the air conditioner. I was thinking that since both receptacles look like they would take the two horizontal prongs (and a ground) that mine would work for both types of plugs. Or is there something else different in the configuration that I'm missing?
 
gotcha, then you would just need to buy a power plug for your socket, cut off existing one and wire up the new one
:)
Yev

black & green are hot and white is neutral/ground
 
Just to add some electrical wiring points, the 20amp wall socket you have for your AC is for a 20amp plug to go into it, if you use this 30amp plug on a 20amp breaker line, somebody could unknowingly plug in a 30 amp draw and there could be load issues. And obv this is not per the electrical code for homes. I'm by no means a electrical code nazi, just a safety FYI. Just don't burn your house down!
 
When I ran the wire for this outlet I used 10 gauge so that I'd have the option of switching to a 30 amp breaker and 30 amp receptacle if the need ever came up. For now I'd like to keep the 20 breaker and receptacle because it’s compatible with the AC unit. If the plug on your GFCI doesn't work, I'll switch it out for a 6-20P.

Thanks. Payment sent.
 
WARNING:
These cords are not GFCI!

They are something called LCDI.
Leak-current detection and interruption (LCDI) plugs
Because portable air conditioners have caused many electrical fires, those sold in the United States now must have leak-current detection and interruption (LCDI) plugs. The cords have a fine wire mesh around the conductors and circuitry to detect any current leaking from the conductors to the mesh, which would happen if the cord were damaged or frayed. These could be NEMA 5–15, 5–20, 6–15, 6–20 or 6–30 plugs, depending on the air conditioner. The plug is equipped with “Test” and “Reset” buttons on the housing.

Pulled mine apart and started wiring it into my HLT only to discover that there was no monitoring of the ground wire. You can see from the attached picture that the ground wire passes through the housing. The LCDI connects to a mesh shield around the long part of the cord, but not the ground wire. From what I've found, these are made for fire protection and will not protect you from shock the way a GFCI will.


OP:
If you have contrary information, let me know and I will take this post down. Otherwise I suggest that you contact anyone you sold these to and inform them of the safety hazard.

DSCF3978.jpg


DSCF3981.jpg
 
Dear Homebrewtalk members who acquired this item from me. I bought a lot of 7 of them on craigslist few months. i am currently using one of the,but never bothered to take one apart like Bob did.

let me research possible modifications to make it safe. i will post back shortly. you are also welcome to send it back for a refund

thanks,
Yev
 
(Double posting this from my LCDI thread for anyone who might have bought one of these and still has questions.)

To follow up, I contacted the manufacturer.

Sirs

I recently purchased a Tower LCDI (cat. no. 30364-0) cord. I know that LCDI's are made for fire protection, but will this cord offer the same type of personal protection as a GFCI when used in a kitchen like setting?

Thank-you.

Dear Mr Richards

An LCDI is not intended for personal protection the way a GFCI is. LCDIs monitor only the cord integrity and these devices are UL mandated for use with certain types of air conditioners.

Tower Mfg. Corp.
 
it's a shame, i wish i knew before i posted this sale to save people trouble. the most important is that no one got hurt

Yev
 
Yevmeister said:
it's a shame, i wish i knew before i posted this sale to save people trouble. the most important is that no one got hurt

Yev

Props to you man it's always good to see someone who takes responsibility and has integrity. We all make mistakes
 
Hey Yev. Didn't get a response to the PM I sent. Might be that your box is full. I need a return address to send the cord to. I'll pay the return shipping, but would like my PayPal account refunded the amount of the purchase first.
 
Herm,

yeah i have been getting much of correspondence lately. i just refunded your payment - S&H, you may hold on to the cord. i wasn't able to track that seller guy.

and i feel like i shouldn't burden members with additional shipping charges. i have my own cable that i will use as evidence as misrepresentation of product

Yev
 
Thank-you. Much appreciated! I have no use for the cord, but will hang onto it for a while incase you are able to get a refund and need to return it. Good luck!
 
Back
Top