No Chill Results Thread - Post your good or bad notes here.

[bakins]

That and he said that this was showing the hops adjusted for no chilll in his post.

I wasn't sure if he meant he shifted them or listed the calculated amounts.

Did 2 more no-chill's: a smoked porter (still in primary) and another red (force carbing). Will report back. Adjusted my hops a little better this time, I hope.

 

[juvinious]

I did 10 gallons of a Murphy's Irish Stout Clone with adjusted hop schedule this past weekend, pitched RWS on monday and currently the wort is happily bubbling off. I've put my no chill hefe on gas on monday as well so I'll report back on the beer whenever I get an open tap in the next few weeks.

 

[chefchris]

So was that 40 minutes from end of boil or calculated at 40 (ie, actually added at 20 minutes)?

POL was right. If you no chill this recipe do it at the times I have listed. So the 40 minutes is actually a 60 minute addition if you weren't no chilling.

 

[bernerbrau]

So... has anybody had poor results doing a no-chill brew?

And there's nothing to this, right? Just pour your near-boiling wort into a bucket or better bottle, airlock it, and leave it overnight to cool before pitching?

Because if it turns out that the chill step is unnecessary, that's a good 15-25 minutes I can take out of my brew day.

 

[The Pol]

So... has anybody had poor results doing a no-chill brew?

And there's nothing to this, right? Just pour your near-boiling wort into a bucket or better bottle, airlock it, and leave it overnight to cool before pitching?

Because if it turns out that the chill step is unnecessary, that's a good 15-25 minutes I can take out of my brew day.

All of my no chills (that is all I have done since February) have been excellent beers! They are nice, clean and become crystal clear within weeks of being kegged.

 

[The Pol]

I am going to be brewing an all FWH'd IAPA soon, no chill...

 

[chefchris]

So... has anybody had poor results doing a no-chill brew?

And there's nothing to this, right? Just pour your near-boiling wort into a bucket or better bottle, airlock it, and leave it overnight to cool before pitching?

Because if it turns out that the chill step is unnecessary, that's a good 15-25 minutes I can take out of my brew day.

No bad results here. I think I've done around 8 batches of no chill.

I am going to be brewing an all FWH'd IAPA soon, no chill...

That was my first no chill. All FWH Columbus IPA, turned out very nice. The IBUs are tricky though. It definately doesn't seem as bitter as it should be.

 

[The Pol]

I have adjusted my FWH utilization in ProMash to accomodate the IBU perception issues with FWH

 

[bernerbrau]

I don't keg. Is there a danger of chill haze getting into my bottles?

 

[The Pol]

I don't keg. Is there a danger of chill haze getting into my bottles?

Well, if it settles in kegs, wouldnt it in a bottle?

Dunno, anyone?

 

[bernerbrau]

Well, if it settles in kegs, wouldnt it in a bottle?

Dunno, anyone?

That's what I thought but I didn't know if the act of pouring would be more likely to rouse it.

 

[juvinious]

So... has anybody had poor results doing a no-chill brew?

And there's nothing to this, right? Just pour your near-boiling wort into a bucket or better bottle, airlock it, and leave it overnight to cool before pitching?

Because if it turns out that the chill step is unnecessary, that's a good 15-25 minutes I can take out of my brew day.

No bad results here either, I've noticed some haze on two beers so far but I'm associating it with either the dry hops in one or the wheat/rye in the other.

Also note to be absolutely safe I'd use a sealable HDPE container that can withstand collapsing when the wort cools. Without the seal and using an airlock, it will more than definitely suck in all the liquid and then possibly suck in more air contaminating your wort with airbourne nasties.

 

[bernerbrau]

No bad results here either, I've noticed some haze on two beers so far but I'm associating it with either the dry hops in one or the wheat/rye in the other.

Also note to be absolutely safe I'd use a sealable HDPE container that can withstand collapsing when the wort cools. Without the seal and using an airlock, it will more than definitely suck in all the liquid and then possibly suck in more air contaminating your wort with airbourne nasties.

How about a blowoff into a gallon of weak starsan solution?

 

[The Pol]

How about a blowoff into a gallon of weak starsan solution?

You may suck in a quart or more of StarSan... there is A LOT of shrinkage both in wort and headspace. Best to have a sealed container.

 

[ytsejam]

So... has anybody had poor results doing a no-chill brew?

And there's nothing to this, right? Just pour your near-boiling wort into a bucket or better bottle, airlock it, and leave it overnight to cool before pitching?

Because if it turns out that the chill step is unnecessary, that's a good 15-25 minutes I can take out of my brew day.

No!!!
Don't melt your better bottle.
I'm not sure if a bucket will work or not, but I'm almost positive better bottles are only rated to 140º F or so.

 

[The Pol]

No!!!
Don't melt your better bottle.
I'm not sure if a bucket will work or not, but I'm almost positive better bottles are only rated to 140º F or so.

RIGHT, you need HDPE... NOT PET plastic... Your better bottle will melt into a little glob.

 

[bernerbrau]

No!!!
Don't melt your better bottle.
I'm not sure if a bucket will work or not, but I'm almost positive better bottles are only rated to 140º F or so.

I'm kinda worried about using a glass carboy, though. Figure that's a lot more likely to be destroyed by the shock of 195-degree liquid.

 

[bernerbrau]

Ah, OK. My buckets are HDPE. I'll just need to buy a non-drilled lid and maybe put some silicone around the inside.

 

[MMW]

So... has anybody had poor results doing a no-chill brew?

And there's nothing to this, right? Just pour your near-boiling wort into a bucket or better bottle, airlock it, and leave it overnight to cool before pitching?

Because if it turns out that the chill step is unnecessary, that's a good 15-25 minutes I can take out of my brew day.

Do yourself a favor a leave near boiling wort out of the carboys (glass or BB)

I don't even airlock mine (I use an bucket)-- I just stick a thermometer in the airlock hole and let it go. When I'm feeling adventurous, I use some sanitized foil over the hole.

If you have one of those fancy pants $11 cube thingamajigs just cap it and let the sides buckle in.

 

[hal2814]

How about a blowoff into a gallon of weak starsan solution?

That's what I do with my Ale Pail. I don't know exactly how long my tube is but I think it's in the neighborhood of 6'-8' and it fits in the hole you would usually use for an airlock. Never had blow off water get all the way up.

 

[bakins]

Ah, OK. My buckets are HDPE. I'll just need to buy a non-drilled lid and maybe put some silicone around the inside.

In my experience with a bucket - all of once - the solid lid sealed fine, YMMV. The bucket almost completely imploded though, There is a lot of shrinkage.

I'm actually thinking of going to 10 gallon batches and using 2 cubes. Cube-hop each one with a different hop, use different yeasts and I have 2 different - but related - beers from a single brew session. May could even steep some other grains for one of them. So maybe a nice APA and a brown from the same base wort.

I think someone on here is doing that already. ?

 

[pnj]

Hey hal2814 and MMW-

Do you notice if your bucket buckles or seems like it wants to collapes on itself?

The folks using the fancy dancy cube things all say their cubes contract alot.

 

[BargainFittings]

Pnj I can tell my own experience.

I use buckets and just shov a starsan soaked cotton ball in the airlock hole. This allows them to cool and not collapse. I did pitch the next day though.

 

[hal2814]

My bucket doesn't buckle but the paint fades off fast. I have to resharpie my gallon marks every 5 batches or so. Also, the little stick on thermometer stopped working (not that it ever really worked to begin with).

 

[TXCrash]

12 gallons of malted apple wine (based on brandon's graff with an all grain base, no hops, and accidentally defrosted concentrate). Completely ignored sanitation procedures (drunk and tired) - including starting siphon (ss racking cane) from kettle (no ball valve yet) with mouth directly on hose. Seems like I sanitized the outside somehow - but I may have simply counted on the heat.

Racked into sanitized ss keg, stoppered and airlocked (could have been bad - lots of backpressure when stopper removed).

Pitched ~24 hrs later - took that long to get cool enough to pitch. Pitched 2 packs rehydrated windsor and fermented at 60 for 3 weeks.

Racked the other day and it tastes like 6 month old afpelwein - though it's cloudy as all get up - undoubtedly in part due to windsor's non floc characteristics.

Definitely sold on the concept for the times where chilling is impossible or impractical.

 

[hal2814]

For an update, my simcoe-based pale ale mentioned earlier in this thread is a little hazy but has no off flavors like cabbage or creamed corn. And just so you know, I don't particularly put much care into my pale ales so they often have haze in them. Not opaque, but certainly not crystal clear.

We were talking earlier about pilsner malt being the most prone to DMS in the proper no chill thread. I finally got my pilsner-malt-based beer brewed and fermenting. I was waffling on going long boil (90 min) just in case but since it's a relatively cheap recipe, I decided to put the DMS theory to the test and do a 45 minute boil since I'm basing it off an extract recipe I do that's a 45 minute boil. Here's my recipe for those playing along at home:
8lbs Pilsner Malt
1 oz Saaz 45 mins
1/2 oz Saaz 15 mins
1/2 oz Saaz dryhop
Wyeast 2112 (Steam)

I'm using steam yeast because I don't have the facilities for really lagering and I know it works for the extract recipe I based this beer off of.

 

[juvinious]

Here is my no chill hefe 15lbs wheat and 8lbs pils pretty damn tasty.
Picture is a bit grainy taken with my iphone.

 

[Saccharomyces]

I'm planning to no-chill my house ale (pilot RIMS batch at that) because the hop schedule will work perfectly with no-chill. I plan to stick a StarSan soaked paper towel in the airlock hole of my HDPE ale pail. Will report the results.

 

[smoa]

So I normally primary in a Sanke, there should be any chance that it will colapse. Right? I have one of those little plastic caps the breweries put over the coupling for transit, maybe I could just put that on instead of sealing it up right away.

 

[Tonedef131]

I had another thread with the results from my one and only batch of No Chill...but since this seems to be the cnosolidation thread I will crosspost it here:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f13/side-side-no-chill-results-137209/