No-Boil Recipes! New for 2019!

[Hoochin'Fool]

Thanks, that makes sense. Should be drinkable! Don't know that I've ever had a beer with only pilsen malt in it, please report back how it turns out!

 

[fluketamer]

Thanks, that makes sense. Should be drinkable! Don't know that I've ever had a beer with only pilsen malt in it, please report back how it turns out!

oh yeah i just realized technically its a SMASH.

ill def report if it makes beer.

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

in brewers friend , if you put 0.001 lbs of malt in the fermentables( which is basically zero malt,) then the ibus will come up. i think i got 88 ibus before the dilution so i figure hopefully about a quarter of that or about 22 ibus. in the gallon of beer .


i read somewhere that you can only get about 100 ibus max in a hop tea without malt . i have no idea if this is true or not.

i will say the tea was bitter as hell before i put it in.

do you think this will make drinkable beer?

If you're curious about "estimated" vs "actual", in the recent past, Brulosophy (link to one example) has mentioned using a service (convenience link, not a personal recommendation either for or against) that measures various beer attributes (IBUs, etc) for a fee.

 

[CascadesBrewer]

DIY flash brewing :

Thanks for sharing. The Flash Brewing interest is what got me to page through this thread. I was thinking of giving something like what you describe a try with some 1 gallon batches. Isomerized Hop Extract like used by MoreBeer seems a bit hard to track down (I did see this: https://gnomebrewshop.com/shop/hops/items/ctz-hop-extract-shot-10-ml/1736) and just a 10 minute boil might 1) be an easier, cheaper, and more flexible option than extract and 2) give a better hop flavor for some styles vs MoreBeer's dry hopping approach.

 

[fluketamer]

taste test today, this was surprisingly good . its perfectly drinkable. it passed the ultimate test. swimbo said its excellent.

i fermented this in an oxebar 4 liter with a shortened dip tube to account for the sediment. i left the cap loose until the kreusen fell then tightened the cap a few days later, then i crashed it at 40 degrees for the last week. yhem put it on gas. its still not completely clear yet but getting there.

i could see how this would work well for small batches or experiments with dry hopping or changing the hop schedule times in the hop tea.

it was very quick and cheap.

i keep trying to find faults in it but i am getting kind of tipsy after the fourth glass , so i guess its not bad.

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

The Flash Brewing interest is what got me to page through this thread. I was thinking of giving something like what you describe a try with some 1 gallon batches. Isomerized Hop Extract like used by MoreBeer seems a bit hard to track down (I did see this: https://gnomebrewshop.com/shop/hops/items/ctz-hop-extract-shot-10-ml/1736) and just a 10 minute boil might 1) be an easier, cheaper, and more flexible option than extract and 2) give a better hop flavor for some styles vs MoreBeer's dry hopping approach.

Brewing Engineering, 2e by Steven Deeds has 1) ideas on making "hop tea" for bittering and storing it, 2) ideas on adding a steeped grain wort (pro tip: must be pasteurized) to a "no boil" wort, and a couple of other things. $11 paperback / $5 ebook. Earlier versions of some of the content are also at his web site.

For anyone looking to "embrace and extend" Flash Brewing kits to styles that the kits do not support, this book looks like a good source of inspiration on techniques. It also covers ingredient safety concerns.

 

[CascadesBrewer]

For anyone looking to "embrace and extend" Flash Brewing kits to styles that the kits do not support, this book looks like a good source of inspiration on techniques. It also covers ingredient safety concerns.

Hopefully a few cents of the $4.49 purchase cost makes it to the author. I am a little curious to try the Easy IPA recipe (maybe scaled down to a smaller batch size).

I am a little curious about the benefits of adding some of the extract to the fermenter a few days in. For example, the Easy IPA recipe calls for an initial 4.4 lbs of DME, then on day 2 adding the remaining 1.8 lbs of DME and 1 lb of Sugar into the fermenter. I did not see a reason mentioned (though I only skimmed most of the book).

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

I am a little curious about the benefits of adding some of the extract to the fermenter a few days in. For example, the Easy IPA recipe calls for an initial 4.4 lbs of DME, then on day 2 adding the remaining 1.8 lbs of DME and 1 lb of Sugar into the fermenter. I did not see a reason mentioned (though I only skimmed most of the book).

When I wrote #246, I was thinking in terms of malts and hops on brew day. For a DYI 10 minute brew day, yeast is a solved problem as most of us will like use our existing fermentation control.

But it would be interesting to see the recipes from Brewing Classic Styles done with a "no boil" / "10 minute" brew day approach.

 

[CascadesBrewer]

I am a little curious about the benefits of adding some of the extract to the fermenter a few days in. For example, the Easy IPA recipe calls for an initial 4.4 lbs of DME, then on day 2 adding the remaining 1.8 lbs of DME and 1 lb of Sugar into the fermenter. I did not see a reason mentioned (though I only skimmed most of the book).

I see it now. The author holds back some of the extract and sugar so the initial pitch rate is "correct" for the one pack of dry yeast.

"Dry yeast contains approximately 150 billion cells per package. Instead of scaling the volume of the wort, or growing the cells, extract brewing gives you a third option that is even easier. A portion of the extract can be added to create the correct pitch rate. After two days the remainder of the sugar can be added."

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

The author holds back some of the extract and sugar so the initial pitch rate is "correct" for the one pack of dry yeast.

Perhaps a starting point to "imperialize" the MoreBeer kits (some additional IBUs and flavor hops may also be needed). Maybe add a blend of Amber DME and/or Traditional Dark DME to get some munich & C60. Although "imperial" strength (even with "all grain") often needs some simple sugar to keep the FG reasonable.

 

[Northern_Brewer]

I am a little curious about the benefits of adding some of the extract to the fermenter a few days in. For example, the Easy IPA recipe calls for an initial 4.4 lbs of DME, then on day 2 adding the remaining 1.8 lbs of DME and 1 lb of Sugar into the fermenter. I did not see a reason mentioned (though I only skimmed most of the book).

It's mostly about reducing yeast stress from osmotic pressure. We're familiar with the idea of beer yeast being stressed by high levels of ethanol - over 10% ABV say - but they are also stressed by high levels of sugar, as water wants to flow to equalise concentrations, from the relatively dilute inside-of-the-yeast to the concentrated sugar solution outside it.

So if you think of 10 units of sugar being as stressful as 10% ethanol, it's better to give the yeast say 6 units of sugar to munch on initially, then it turns that into 6% ethanol, then you add another 4 units of sugar - but the yeast is happy with 6% ethanol, 4 units sugar - and then it ferments the sugar out, the beer ends up at 10%, and then the yeast die of ethanol poisoning. It's a common trick even in all-grain brewing when you're adding some gravity points to a big beer with sugar/DME.