nipple inside welded keggle pipe?

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basline

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hi all

long time reader, first time poster. I've never come across a question someone hadn't asked before, so there was no need to post until now. I haven't been able to find any posts on this, so hopefully someone can help me out.

I had been watching my local craigslist for some months looking for a used keggle or a keg to convert. I came across a really good deal on one, and ended up pulling the trigger without thinking about it as much as I probably should have.

The keggle has a about 4.5" stainless pipe welded in for the ball valve, and it looks like its 1" in diameter. There are threads on the outside, but no threads on the inside. Id really like treads on the interior, and I was also thinking about using a stainless ball valve. But it looks like a 1" stainless ball valve with set me back as much as the keggle, and I have no idea if I could thread the interior of the pipe inside the keggle.

CIMG1664.png


inside, sorry for the focus
CIMG1666.png


I tried out the 1/2" npt nipple from my mash tun, and it seems to fit snugly inside the pipe. I was thinking of ordering a long enough nipple with some silicon o-rings I could just go through the pipe and do a ball valve outside and a dip tube inside.

Is this a bad idea? Should I be worried about the small amount of air trapped between the pipes subjected to the heat of a propane burner? Any alternative ideas out there? thanks
 
Cut the pipe flush and put the length of nipple you need through the 1" and weld the 1/2" nipple to the 1" nipple.
 
I was hoping to not have to find a welder if possible. But if that's the best bet I can look into finding one in the area.

Any thoughts on setting up a "weld-less" nipple and o-rings inside the welded pipe? Cutting the pipe shorter is definitely a good call.
 
The pipe within a pipe sounds like a mess to me. It would most likely be filled with wort, and other gunk instead of air. Your best bet might be to run a tap on the inside and use those threads for your dip tube. If you cut the pipe shorter then you will have to re-thread the outside. Just my thoughts since you already have a stainless port welded in there, might as well take advantage of it.

-cheers
 
If that cut off end inside is cut squarely (it's hard to tell in the picture) then you can put a 1/2" nipple through and have a gasket seal against the edge as if it were just a hole in the keg. The best solution is one where a washer is soldered to the nipple to provide the flat sealing surface for a silicone gasket.
 
From a welders point cut the dang thing off have a patch welded over and have what you want welded in say a 1/2 coupler.

Here I would charge 12.00 for the new coupler, hole drill coupler turn half length and back flowed tig welded. I furnish the coupler

Hole patch 12.00 also cut the old pipe out with plasma make a patch and back flow the patch weld


Its really no big deal better than trying to jury things.
,

God Bless
Dominus Vobiscum
Swagman
 
I wouldnt even attempt to tap threads on the inside at the bottom of a keggle with a 3/4" tap because 3/4" is the closest size for the ID of a standerd ss 1" nipple. If you want to go weldless you may be able to use a 1/2" nipple, two grooved nuts (you can get from NB & MB), two ss flat wahers and two or more silicone o-rings, you'll have to cut the nipple flush on both sides, clean the burr and chamfer the edge on both sides if you can, put a o-ring, washer & grooved nut on one end of the 1/2" nipple and tighten the nut until it stops and is snug, slide the nipple through whats left of the 1" nipple from the inside, now place an o-ring flat washer & nut on the out side, holding the inside nut tighten the outside nut until it starts to crush the o-rings and test to see if it leaks by filling the keggle to the top with water. I don't know what tools you have access to, but you have to forgive me, I some times take for granted everyone attempting some of these projects has the tool to do them.
 
From a welders point cut the dang thing off have a patch welded over and have what you want welded in say a 1/2 coupler.

Here I would charge 12.00 for the new coupler, hole drill coupler turn half length and back flowed tig welded. I furnish the coupler

Hole patch 12.00 also cut the old pipe out with plasma make a patch and back flow the patch weld


Its really no big deal better than trying to jury things.
,

God Bless
Dominus Vobiscum
Swagman

Thats what I'd do but put the new fitting on the opposite side of the patch.
 
I guess shipping the keg to Swag would be cost prohibitive, I do like bobby's idea of cutting the pipe and going weldless. Bargain fittings has what you want w/ a soldered bulhead. Depending how much pipe you leave, you could select a longer cooler bulkhead.
http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=47&product_id=147
Being lazy, I would be tempted to try it as is and just tilt the kettle to get the last 1/2 gallon??
 
thanks for the input. Tools are somewhat limited, but there is a local tool library or renting if need be. Suggestions for a cheap reamer bit or whatnot are appreciated. but you all have provided plenty of help.

Ill see if I can find a welder, but I'll probably order some parts from bargain fittings and a longer nipple from mcmaster-carr, which leaves the "do nothing" option open.
 
Your asking for a reamer, do you need to open the inside of the nipple more or did you mean a chamfer bit?
 
yep Raider, my mistake. A chamfer bit. thanks for all the help again.
 
If you have a Harbor Fraight near by they have cone shaped stones that fit a drill that should work to chamfer the edge, thier cheap and for a one time use I couldent justify the cost of a 1" chamfer bit, you just want to remove the sharp edge, also if you cut the nipple flush you should be able to chamfer the inside edge from the outside with a half round fine file and a file has more uses then a stone or chamfer bit and you can find a half round file any where.
 
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