Next steps, and some questions on 1st brew

[98EXL]

Sunday my buddy came over, and we started brew #1, a Munton's stout. I can't believe 5 days has come and gone already. My questions are as follows.

1. I've watched the brew foam up, blow off CO2, and the foam die down over the week. When will 'I know' it's done in the primary?

2. The closet that it is sitting in, outside of it, the air temp is between 65 and 71 degrees throughout the day, is that ok? I imagine it may be a little warmer in the closet.

3. I don't need to do anything to transfer the brew from primary carboy to secondary, other than transfer it? Should I take a SG reading?

Should I get a stick on thermometer to go on the side of the carboy, or say screw it? This has been fun so far, and I think that I'll be bored this weekend (maybe) just transferring into the secondary, and may brew another batch...which leads me back to question #2, about temps. Besides lagers and ales, what can I brew at a 65-75 degree temperature range? I'd like to know, thanks in advance for input!

 

[rcbrew]

Welcome to the obsession.....
1. Its seems to be done with its fermenting, but the only way to know for sure is to take a hydrometer test for a couple of days and/or it has reached its target F.G.
2. Go to Wyeasts and/or White Labs web site and on those sites, you can get the temperatures that any particular yeast work well in and go from there. Please note that in general terms, ales will tolerate higher temps than lagers. Lagers do best in temps under 60 degrees.
3. Yep, just be sure to keep any splashing to a minimum.

 

[Wolf]

1. A good rule of thumb for most brews is 1 week in primary and 2 in secondary. Rcbrew is right that the hydrometer is the only way to know for sure...but I've never used one

2. Closet sounds fine, it'll help it avoid temperature swings during the day...unless it's on an outside wall, then it might be colder than the room.

As far as what you can brew at 65-75 range, you mention lagers, but lagers need to be 'lagered' at much lower temps, usually you need a fridge or cooler of some kind to make a true lager. I don't lager, so others can give you better info.

 

[Craig5_12]

Just wanted to add a few things:
2: Usually closets are a little cooler, but to be sure, get one of those stick-on thermometers, they're pretty cheap and help you RDWHAHB.
3. As above, lagers "should" be "lagered" at less than 60 degrees, so you're pretty much just in ale range...of course you can brew stuff like mead, melomel, and then go check out this thread: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=14860

 

[98EXL]

Welcome to the obsession.....
1. Its seems to be done with its fermenting, but the only way to know for sure is to take a hydrometer test for a couple of days and/or it has reached its target F.G.
2. Go to Wyeasts and/or White Labs web site and on those sites, you can get the temperatures that any particular yeast work well in and go from there. Please note that in general terms, ales will tolerate higher temps than lagers. Lagers do best in temps under 60 degrees.
3. Yep, just be sure to keep any splashing to a minimum.

a) Where would I find the target SG? Is that something that the kit should have said, or is there a general rule of thumb?

b) I used the yeast that came with the kit. Dry, no name stuff, that we did hydrate (or whatever the specific term is) to hopefully make things a little bit better. I know lagers are better in cooler temps, I forgot to mention my basement is cold, and it would do great there, as opposed to where I have the carboy now.

c) check on splashing to a minimum!

Thanks!

1. A good rule of thumb for most brews is 1 week in primary and 2 in secondary. Rcbrew is right that the hydrometer is the only way to know for sure...but I've never used one

2. Closet sounds fine, it'll help it avoid temperature swings during the day...unless it's on an outside wall, then it might be colder than the room.

As far as what you can brew at 65-75 range, you mention lagers, but lagers need to be 'lagered' at much lower temps, usually you need a fridge or cooler of some kind to make a true lager. I don't lager, so others can give you better info.

a) is that the 1-2-3 rule? 1 week in the primary, 2 weeks in the secondary, and 3 weeks in bottles?

b) that particular closet is in the interior of the house, no outside walls.

c) I'd stick it in the basement for lagers, but I think I covered that in the above response

Thanks!

Just wanted to add a few things:
2: Usually closets are a little cooler, but to be sure, get one of those stick-on thermometers, they're pretty cheap and help you RDWHAHB.
3. As above, lagers "should" be "lagered" at less than 60 degrees, so you're pretty much just in ale range...of course you can brew stuff like mead, melomel, and then go check out this thread: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=14860

a) I'll look into a stick on thermometer they have got to be cheap, and I think I am about 5 weeks away from enjoying my first HB

b) interesting thread, looks good, might be fun to try. I loved the line in that thread about $0.35 per 12 ounce serving, that is awesome!

Thanks!



Anyone else have any other hints or tricks to help me, I want my first brew to go well. I really think that the girlfriend is going to help me on brew #2 and the worst part is, I think she is more excited about the stout than I, and I am really excited. And even more funny to me is she checks the fermenting more than I do, so funny.

 

[Nexus555]

a) Where would I find the target SG? Is that something that the kit should have said, or is there a general rule of thumb?
------------------------------
If you didn't take an original gravity reading, that is okay. But take a gravity reading when you can. (Sanitize your autosiphon and tube, siphon a little beer into your hydrometer "test tube," place the hydrometer in the tube and let it float, write down the numbers that are on the surface on the beer.)

Check every 2-3 days, when the readings don't change anymore, fermentation is complete.



a) is that the 1-2-3 rule? 1 week in the primary, 2 weeks in the secondary, and 3 weeks in bottles?
--------------------------------------------------
This is typically (but not always) used in the brewing community. 1 week for the active fermentation, then transfer to a secondary (aka clearing tank.) All that the secondary does is allow more time for sediments to drop to the bottom of the carboy (clearer beer.) You can however just leave your beer in the primary for 2-3 weeks and not transfer to a secondary. 3 weeks is a decent amount of time in the bottles to allow your beer to carbonate and the taste to mature a bit.


a) I'll look into a stick on thermometer they have got to be cheap, and I think I am about 5 weeks away from enjoying my first HB
-----------------------------------
These are useful, and very inexpensive.



Anyone else have any other hints or tricks to help me, I want my first brew to go well. I really think that the girlfriend is going to help me on brew #2 and the worst part is, I think she is more excited about the stout than I, and I am really excited. And even more funny to me is she checks the fermenting more than I do, so funny.
-------------------------------------
Relax, Don't Worry, Have a Home Brew (when finished.)


You asked also what else can be produced in the 65-75 range. If you like cider (aka hard cider, apple cider... fermented apple juice) you can easily do this. There is a Cider forum on this website you can check out for questions. Basically it's 5 gallons of 100% apple juice (no perservatives or concentrate), and yeast (can be ale yeast, but there are cider yeast you can purchase.) Cider generally takes 5-6 months to finish, but a lot of people wait a year. You can use the 1-2-3 method here as well, but instead of weeks, make it months. 1 month primary 2 months secondary 3 months bottled. Pretty easy stuff to make.

Have fun!

 

[98EXL]

a) Where would I find the target SG? Is that something that the kit should have said, or is there a general rule of thumb?
------------------------------
If you didn't take an original gravity reading, that is okay. But take a gravity reading when you can. (Sanitize your autosiphon and tube, siphon a little beer into your hydrometer "test tube," place the hydrometer in the tube and let it float, write down the numbers that are on the surface on the beer.)

Check every 2-3 days, when the readings don't change anymore, fermentation is complete.



a) is that the 1-2-3 rule? 1 week in the primary, 2 weeks in the secondary, and 3 weeks in bottles?
--------------------------------------------------
This is typically (but not always) used in the brewing community. 1 week for the active fermentation, then transfer to a secondary (aka clearing tank.) All that the secondary does is allow more time for sediments to drop to the bottom of the carboy (clearer beer.) You can however just leave your beer in the primary for 2-3 weeks and not transfer to a secondary. 3 weeks is a decent amount of time in the bottles to allow your beer to carbonate and the taste to mature a bit.


a) I'll look into a stick on thermometer they have got to be cheap, and I think I am about 5 weeks away from enjoying my first HB
-----------------------------------
These are useful, and very inexpensive.



Anyone else have any other hints or tricks to help me, I want my first brew to go well. I really think that the girlfriend is going to help me on brew #2 and the worst part is, I think she is more excited about the stout than I, and I am really excited. And even more funny to me is she checks the fermenting more than I do, so funny.
-------------------------------------
Relax, Don't Worry, Have a Home Brew (when finished.)


You asked also what else can be produced in the 65-75 range. If you like cider (aka hard cider, apple cider... fermented apple juice) you can easily do this. There is a Cider forum on this website you can check out for questions. Basically it's 5 gallons of 100% apple juice (no perservatives or concentrate), and yeast (can be ale yeast, but there are cider yeast you can purchase.) Cider generally takes 5-6 months to finish, but a lot of people wait a year. You can use the 1-2-3 method here as well, but instead of weeks, make it months. 1 month primary 2 months secondary 3 months bottled. Pretty easy stuff to make.

Have fun!

I did in fact take an original SG reading, but I don't have it handy, as I am at work.

wow, cider takes a long time! Sounds like fun though

 

[Nexus555]

I did in fact take an original SG reading, but I don't have it handy, as I am at work.

wow, cider takes a long time! Sounds like fun though

Get used to it. Even some beers take up to 6 months to a year to be drinkable. Noteably some Imperial Stouts and Barelywine, lagers, amongst others. Meads and wines also take this long. You will shortly find out you want to try some different things, but will have to wait a long time. The trick is to keep something brewing at all times, and maybe have 1 fermenter dedicated to those drinks that ferment longer. I actually bought another primary yesterday just for cider (or anything else that takes a while.) Hehe, your hobby will soon be your addiction!!! Muwahahah (joke.)

 

[CBBaron]

Sunday my buddy came over, and we started brew #1, a Munton's stout. I can't believe 5 days has come and gone already. My questions are as follows.

1. I've watched the brew foam up, blow off CO2, and the foam die down over the week. When will 'I know' it's done in the primary?

2. The closet that it is sitting in, outside of it, the air temp is between 65 and 71 degrees throughout the day, is that ok? I imagine it may be a little warmer in the closet.

3. I don't need to do anything to transfer the brew from primary carboy to secondary, other than transfer it? Should I take a SG reading?

Should I get a stick on thermometer to go on the side of the carboy, or say screw it? This has been fun so far, and I think that I'll be bored this weekend (maybe) just transferring into the secondary, and may brew another batch...which leads me back to question #2, about temps. Besides lagers and ales, what can I brew at a 65-75 degree temperature range? I'd like to know, thanks in advance for input!

1. If you secondary most beers will be done after one week in the primary, two weeks in the secondary, then bottle. If you primary only leave it for two weeks before bottling.
2. Most Ale yeast work best at 65-70F. Your yeast packet probably has a stated range.
3. Transfer by siphon keeping the hose of the siphon under the level of the beer in the secondary to prevent splashing and aeration. I usually take a SG reading at this point and a taste. The SG reading should be very close to your FG.
There are basically two types of beers, ales and lagers. Stouts, Porters, Brown Ales, Pale Ales, wheat beers, etc are ales and usually ferment at 65-70F. Pilsners, Bocks, Dunkel, etc. are lagers and ferment around 55F. The Wiki on the forum has a good description of the different styles.
Craig

 

[98EXL]

Get used to it. Even some beers take up to 6 months to a year to be drinkable. Noteably some Imperial Stouts and Barelywine, lagers, amongst others. Meads and wines also take this long. You will shortly find out you want to try some different things, but will have to wait a long time. The trick is to keep something brewing at all times, and maybe have 1 fermenter dedicated to those drinks that ferment longer. I actually bought another primary yesterday just for cider (or anything else that takes a while.) Hehe, your hobby will soon be your addiction!!! Muwahahah (joke.)

I would like to have something brewing at all times. I figure I can start a bunch of batches, and by the time I do a boil kit, my first no boil kit will be almost ready to taste and actually drink!

I hope this is yet another hobby of mine to add to the list!

1. If you secondary most beers will be done after one week in the primary, two weeks in the secondary, then bottle. If you primary only leave it for two weeks before bottling.
2. Most Ale yeast work best at 65-70F. Your yeast packet probably has a stated range.
3. Transfer by siphon keeping the hose of the siphon under the level of the beer in the secondary to prevent splashing and aeration. I usually take a SG reading at this point and a taste. The SG reading should be very close to your FG.
There are basically two types of beers, ales and lagers. Stouts, Porters, Brown Ales, Pale Ales, wheat beers, etc are ales and usually ferment at 65-70F. Pilsners, Bocks, Dunkel, etc. are lagers and ferment around 55F. The Wiki on the forum has a good description of the different styles.
Craig

I'm doing a primary and secondary system. I just picked up my secondary carboy at the LHBS with some other things, and some sticky thermometers to go on the sides of the carboys.

Easter will be beer day, girlfriend has already mentally cleared her schedule to do beer stuff.....this is going to be the best Easter ever!

 

[98EXL]

got the stout in the secondary.....

had some problems though, towards the end of the siphon, it stopped twice! I could not believe it whatsoever! Other than that, it was a success....any ideas as to why it randomly stopped?

Oh, and yes, the secondary was way lower than the primary, so the height issue wasn't even there.