Newbie question about hitting ABV with extract kit

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whoward

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New brewer here, prepping to begin my second batch after sub par results on my first batch.
This is Brewers Best Double IPA Beer in a Box. The recipe is in the image below, but I'll also write it out here in the text. Basically what I want is a higher ABV beer and this recipe says that the end product can be from 7.3-8.3%. What can I do to increase the likelihood that I end up in the 8% area?

Fermentables:
9.9lb Light LME
1lb Corn Sugar

Grains:
8oz Carmel 40L
4oz Carapills

Hops
3 packs 1oz Amarillo
1 pack 2oz Cascade
Yeast 1 Sachet

https://i.redd.it/cp6ekqtmnv4z.jpg
 
Apparently BIAB doesn't stand for "beer in a box" which is what I meant. I was told the correct term is "extract kit."

Edit by doug293cz: I changed the thread title so that it is no longer misleading.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You can take care of the yeast, rehydrate before using, thoroughly aerate the wort before pitching, keep temperatures steady. If the yeast isn't fresh, add a second packet.

Or you can add a little less water. Make it to 4.5 gallons rather than 5 gallons.
 
With extract brews, your original gravity is pretty much predetermined as long as you end up with the proper volume in your fermenter. All-grain (BIAB as well, same thing, different process) has a lot more variables since you're dealing with mash efficiency.

For extract brewing, the range in ABV will be affected by the attenuation of your yeast, which in turn affects your final gravity. Higher attenuation means the yeast converts more of the sugars from the LME (and in this case, corn sugar as well) into alcohol. A lower attenuation means fewer sugars are converted, which means less alcohol.

Yeast attenuation is affected primarily by the particular strain AND health of the yeast cells before and during fermentation. There are a ton of resources on the internet detailing how to set your yeast up for success. A lot of it has to do with temperature and pitching the proper amount of yeast.

Also if you're using dry yeast, you can rehydrate it to ensure that most of the cells live through the first stage of fermentation.

If you're using liquid yeast, most here will tell you to make a starter. Liquid yeast packets/tubes do not contain as many cells as a dry yeast packet, and a starter will allow the existing cells to multiply before you pitch into your wort. This is especially important for bigger beers, which I would consider ABV of 7+%.

Bottom line: pitch enough yeast, keep the temp in range and be patient.
 
With extract brews, your original gravity is pretty much predetermined as long as you end up with the proper volume in your fermenter. All-grain (BIAB as well, same thing, different process) has a lot more variables since you're dealing with mash efficiency.

For extract brewing, the range in ABV will be affected by the attenuation of your yeast, which in turn affects your final gravity. Higher attenuation means the yeast converts more of the sugars from the LME (and in this case, corn sugar as well) into alcohol. A lower attenuation means fewer sugars are converted, which means less alcohol.

Yeast attenuation is affected primarily by the particular strain AND health of the yeast cells before and during fermentation. There are a ton of resources on the internet detailing how to set your yeast up for success. A lot of it has to do with temperature and pitching the proper amount of yeast.

Also if you're using dry yeast, you can rehydrate it to ensure that most of the cells live through the first stage of fermentation.

If you're using liquid yeast, most here will tell you to make a starter. Liquid yeast packets/tubes do not contain as many cells as a dry yeast packet, and a starter will allow the existing cells to multiply before you pitch into your wort. This is especially important for bigger beers, which I would consider ABV of 7+%.

Bottom line: pitch enough yeast, keep the temp in range and be patient.

Thank you for the detailed response.

So the kit came with a small 11.5g (0.41 oz) pack of dry yeast. Should I go by the brew store tomorrow and get more? Is there a disadvantage to pitching 2 packs of yeast vs the 1 pack it calls for?
 
With the kits I wouldn't try to do much to alter them until you have a good handle on your processes.

The 11.5 gram package is enough yeast. I would re-hydrate the yeast before pitching it into the wort. I will leave it up to you to research re-hydrating dry yeast. Adding more yeast will not make a difference that you are looking for.

IMO, if you hit anywhere between 7.3 and 8.3% ABV the beer will be to style and should be good. If you really want higher ABV add DME or sugar, but DO NOT expect good results. What would be better is to brew a kit designed for higher ABV.
 
With the kits I wouldn't try to do much to alter them until you have a good handle on your processes.

The 11.5 gram package is enough yeast. I would re-hydrate the yeast before pitching it into the wort. I will leave it up to you to research re-hydrating dry yeast. Adding more yeast will not make a difference that you are looking for.

IMO, if you hit anywhere between 7.3 and 8.3% ABV the beer will be to style and should be good. If you really want higher ABV add DME or sugar, but DO NOT expect good results. What would be better is to brew a kit designed for higher ABV.

Good advice. 8% is about where I prefer my beer, especially my IPA. Since this has such a wide range I just want to get it on the high end and was looking for tips.
 
Good advice. 8% is about where I prefer my beer, especially my IPA. Since this has such a wide range I just want to get it on the high end and was looking for tips.

If the beer is good, I don't care whether it is 7% compared to 8%. Actually if it was 7% I could have one more during the evening than I could if it was 8%.

I brew all styles and I like beers from a high 3% all the way to 11-12%. Taste is far more important to me than ABV.
 

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