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Newb Questions - CO2

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maxamuus

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Sorry if these are really dumb questions but i am a total noob. I have read brewing books but they dont say much about kegging.

Kit instructions were basically useless except to warm me it is quite likely the whole thing would explode and kill/mame me.

My step up -



Questions

1. I filled it at a Sporting Goods store. I was told it would hold 80 oz but the kid filling it up obviously never filled a 5 lbs one as he was puzzled by the looks of. He said it likely was only half full cause he had a hard time filling it, yet the girl rang me up and it was $4.15. So either way i think it was a fair deal. When i open the valve with the regulator on it shows 800 psi. Is that any indication of how full it is?

2. I would like to run just some water thru it to make sure keg is good (its used) Since i dont know the settings on the valve it goes up to 60 psi. Is it safe even if its all the way open? Im guessing the keg can handle the 60PSI pressure?

3. I have read about a stamp showing it was tested. Mine is brand new but no test stamp. Do you have to have that done the first time its filled?

4. Beer is about a week from being done. Since i have all the stuff im guessing Force carbing is the way to go? What would you all recommend for a Hefe?

Thanks in advance.
 
i've noticed what you mean about brewing books. its like they don't even think about it.

1. 800psi is a full tank

2. there should be a little nut on the front of the regulator. that is what controls the out pressure of the tank. turn to the right to increase the pressure turn to the left to decrease. you may need to let some pressure out of the keg to turn it back down once its been pressurized.

3. first make sure the release valve works. there should be a little ring connected to the lid of your keg. pull that. if you hear a hiss then you know it held pressure. if there is no hiss then pressurize to 15psi. spray all your lines, disconnects, and lid with soapy water and see if there are any bubbles. if not then your good.

you can open the valve on the tank all the way if you want no harm there.

4. go here to get the proper PSI to carb a hefe. aim for about 4 volumes of CO2.
 
Sorry if these are really dumb questions but i am a total noob. I have read brewing books but they dont say much about kegging.

Kit instructions were basically useless except to warm me it is quite likely the whole thing would explode and kill/mame me.

My step up -



Questions

1. I filled it at a Sporting Goods store. I was told it would hold 80 oz but the kid filling it up obviously never filled a 5 lbs one as he was puzzled by the looks of. He said it likely was only half full cause he had a hard time filling it, yet the girl rang me up and it was $4.15. So either way i think it was a fair deal. When i open the valve with the regulator on it shows 800 psi. Is that any indication of how full it is?
Pressure is NOT representative of how full it is. You must way it and subtract the Tare Weight (weight of empty cylinder stamped on tank). Pressure will fluctuate with outside temperature regardless of fill level.

2. I would like to run just some water thru it to make sure keg is good (its used) Since i dont know the settings on the valve it goes up to 60 psi. Is it safe even if its all the way open? Im guessing the keg can handle the 60PSI pressure?
The large grey knob is your pressure adjustment dial. turn it all the way counter clockwise and vent the line by opening the red handle with th eother end open to vent. Then turn the grey dil clockwise until you're aruond 5psi. That is plenty to just test and push water. You'll want 10-14 for beer depending on setup.

3. I have read about a stamp showing it was tested. Mine is brand new but no test stamp. Do you have to have that done the first time its filled?
These will be a stamp. It could not have been sold without it. look again. It's not a sign that says DATE-XXXX It will say DOT blah bl;ah or something like that.

4. Beer is about a week from being done. Since i have all the stuff im guessing Force carbing is the way to go? What would you all recommend for a Hefe?
Force carbing refers to carbing with co2 vs priming sugar and yeast. Some use it to describe Burst Carbing. Burst carbing is higher pressure (30psi) for less time (24-48 hours.) It is common to see people with over carbing issues. It is easiest to just set to ~12 psi and wait 2 weeks.


Thanks in advance.

Answers in your post in blue.

To figure out your desired pressure you need to know the following:
Desired volumes of Co2
Desired temperature to serve at.

This can then be used to determine the following.
ID of beer line
Length of Beer Line.
 
that gray knob thing on your regulator is the adjuster screw. its clearly marked which way is which. the top gauge is what the out pressure is. the one on the left is the tank pressure.

also a way to tell if a tank is full or not is to weigh it. somewhere on the tank it should say what the empty weight is. when its full it should weigh 5 pounds more than that. hence the name "5 pound tank".
 
...

2. I would like to run just some water thru it to make sure keg is good (its used) Since i dont know the settings on the valve it goes up to 60 psi. Is it safe even if its all the way open? Im guessing the keg can handle the 60PSI pressure?

...

Cornie kegs are rated to something like 130-135 psi so even if you open the reg to 60 your OK, and that is much higher than you are likely to ever go with beer.
 
Just ran a couple of gallons of water thru it. Sealed fine and water ran thru as it should. If only it were beer :(
 
Thanks for all the answers.

It does have a stamp in the metal that says DOT 3AL 1800 09. I was thinking it would have a tag or something on it.

I don't think that is the date. Is there more? I believe the testing is good for 5 years from the stamp date. I bought mine new last October. It is stamped 03 08 with a symbol that looks like an arrow pointing up between.

Edit: I just looked at the picture again... I think your date is 09 09 which means September of 2009. If thats the case, I think your good till September 2014 on that. Bring it to a welding supply store to see if they will fill it instead of exchanging. They will also confirm what the correct date is. My guy circled the date on my Aluminium tank, and filled the indents with orange paint on my black metal 10# tank.
 
One more question - Was watching a youtube video on kegging and said the PSI can vary depending on temperature, beer, and altitude.

I live at about 4500 ft ASL. Would i want to adjust up or down based on my altitude?
 
The full stamp says M0710 09A09 CO2 KCR B5 TW7.9 (Weight?) DOT -3AL 1800 09 154 075
 
One more question - Was watching a youtube video on kegging and said the PSI can vary depending on temperature, beer, and altitude.

I live at about 4500 ft ASL. Would i want to adjust up or down based on my altitude?

when carbonating aim for the middle of the recommended range for the style of beer. that way you are safe either way.
 
M0710 09A09 CO2 KCR B5 TW7.9 (Weight?) DOT -3AL 1800 09 154 075

M0710 = Manufacturer’s symbol number for KCR Co. Ltd. Korea
09A09 = Born on date of your tank, also the test anniversary
CO2 = what the tank is for
KCR = Company Name
B5 = Beverage cylinder 5lbs.
TW7.9 = tare weight
DOT-3AL = Department of Transportation designation for Aluminum
1800 = maximum rated operational pressure of the tank. The hydrotest pressure is x5/3 (2 1/3) this pressure.
09 154 075 = Manufacturer’s serial number of the cylinder

I'm pretty sure this info is correct. As a side note, this cylinder does not have a "TC" number and would not be legal in Canada
 
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