NZLunchie
Well-Known Member
Teaspoon of white sugar per bottle saw me through the great financial depression 😊
Thanks for all the tips guys, so I have more questions, see attached pic's... Fermentation is slow on this brew,, still at 1016 after nearly two weeks.. Has been fermenting at 18.5... When I took this sample all the mucky stuff is coming out also... Never happened before... Should I assume it will settle after cold crash ? Brew smells fine, taste seems ok... View attachment 215935View attachment 215936View attachment 215937
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Nice 1016 is not bad.
Raise it up to 21 degrees for a week or so, clear out the cobwebs, its a pilsner right?
This one is the mangrove jacks town crier (pale ale) craft series kit... Recommended fg of 1009
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When you say slow, is it still moving? If not do you know how long it's been stuck for? (If you were taking regular samples). I would agree with warming it up. Head up towotrds the upper level for your yeast, some would suggest a slight agitation of the fermenter to get the yeasties mobile again. I sit on the fence on that one tho.
I'm guessing that will clean up fine with a cold crash. Are you planning on finning?
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If you read Jamils and Chris's yeast book they highlight a temperature of 2=3deg higher than fermetnation for the diacetyl. A little higher temperature, give the yeast a big of a shake into solution (some like to flocculate into clumps and drop out earlier than harder than others) and it should help.
Here it goes
Once it reaches fermentation temperature, hold the temperature steady until at least the last one-third to one-fourth of fermentation. At that time raise the temperature several degrees or more (4 to 10° F/2 to 5° C) over the course of a day or two.
Excerpt From: White, Chris. Yeast. Brewers Association, 2010. iBooks.
This material may be protected by copyright.
So after a hard days slog I had to crack one of my pilsners open for a try, only bottled on the 27/7 so need more time to settle... And carb up !!
Definitely getting that hoppy hit from the motueka hops (cheers Jason !!) looking forward to seeing what another few weeks does to this brew as I have a feeling it's going to be a good one.... Fingers crossed...
View attachment 216572
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Awesome! Enjoying the fruits of your labour is what brewing is all about. Enjoy it
Once my pale ale is carbed we should have a tasting!
Looking at getting another pot, see a few stainless at $1 res on trademe, what size should I get, they range from 21 - 50 - 100 litres.....
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Just biab / extract brews as time will only allow for them at the moment
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Go 30L then you can do a full volume boil AND future proofs you should you want to move into all grain![]()
Hi,
I will be in Christchurch for most of October. I am looking for information on good beers to look for and also any information on Fly fishing in the area.
Hi,
I will be in Christchurch for most of October. I am looking for information on good beers to look for and also any information on Fly fishing in the area.
Awesome cheers mate
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New 30 litre stainless purchased, got for 25 bucks so can't complain... Plan to put down a biab before the new addition arrives in a coupe of weeks.... Or should I just go all grain now !! So undecided !! I feel I have temp control sorted now.. Cleanliness sorted....a reasonably good grasp of the basics.... I def learn by doing![]()
Will I have the time tho ! What a dilemma
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Go BIAB - might work easier for you than straight all grain, especially with time constraints.
Yeah, I don't see any benefit in changing from 30L BIAB to 3 pot setup. More to clean, less lifting but that's it. And I hit 80% efficiency on a 11% American barley wine on Saturday. I do a kind of sparge by pulling the bag and putting it in my plastic barrel ferment suspended with bulldog clips and then I heat/boil 2 lots of 5litres of water on the stove and pour it through. Works really well.
Additionally I do have a grain mill so the 80% won't be achievable on a store bought crush.
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