New wort on top of fermenting wort

[JF_HBrews]

Can a second batch of wort be added on top of actively fermenting wort? I have a small 2.5 gallon batch of beer actively fermenting. The color is not what I wanted as it is too dark. I plan to brew another equal size batch with primarily pilsner malt with about the same starting gravity of the first batch. Originally my thought was to make the second batch separately and then blend them both after both have completed fermentation. What are your thoughts on just adding the new wort on top of the active wort instead? Or would you go with a second separate batch and why?

 

[BrewCrewKevin]

I think I would add it. I don't see why not. If your yeast is active, it can immediately get to work on the sugars from the new wort as well, and you shouldn't really have a problem with it.

I've heard of people adding wort to bottle condition, etc. even after fermentation, so I don't see it being a problem either way for you.

 

[stonebrewer]

I think I would blend them post fermentation, depending on how far along you are. I would not want to introduce a lot of oxygen after fermentation has kicked it in gear.

 

[JF_HBrews]

I brewed this Sunday evening so I would be ok trying this if I could do it tonight. But, I probably won't be able to brew the second batch until the weekend. It sounds like I've talked myself into a separate second batch and blending post fermentation. Though I would like to know what would happen had I added a second wort on top of the first.

Here is a picture of my original wort. Beersmith and Brewtoad estimate 7-8 srm and I was actually hoping for about 6 srm color. I believe that I used a darker version of Munich than what I should have. That said, I entered the darker malt in both calculators. This seems darker than 8 srm to me.

I'll post a follow-up in few weeks with the blended results.

Thanks for the replies and input!

 

[stonebrewer]

Munich malts can be confusing as there seems to be no standard definition. There are light and dark, Munich I, II and III, etc. Did you use Munich II? If so, I think you will be happier with the taste, though it is darker than I. Why all the fuss about color? Not trying to be a pain, just curious...is this for a competition or something?

Cheers!

 

[JF_HBrews]

Yes, a competition to clone a favorite local brewery's beer. They gave ingredients (no amounts) and some were vague. I believe I used dark Munich rather than Munich II. My LHBS won't be open until Thursday and I'll confirm what I used then. I'm just a little surprised at the color it did turn out. And I enjoy learning what we can do in brewing.

It was my first solo all-grain batch and I think it will be good regardless of color. So, I'm looking forward to when I can enjoy it.

Thanks!

 

[stonebrewer]

In general light and dark munich vary by malster, but a rule of thumb is light is 6L +/- 1L and dark is 10L +/- 2L. Most people I know that use Munich prefer the taste of the darker Munich, but everyone's pallet is different. I would recommend you go with the darker Munich and that you stick with a German maltser like Weyermann and their Munich II. It is a bit more expensive, but worth it if you are trying to create a beer in the appropriate German style. Dark Munich made outside of Germany will not have the correct flavor profile and may be outside of the normal color range I mention above. This might be where your original attempt went off the path a bit. Good luck!!

 

[JF_HBrews]

Thanks for all of the info, I appreciate it!

No other news other than the fermentation is still going strong.

 

[MindenMan]

Personally, I would blend post fermentation. A while back I had a over concentrated wort, but I pitched anyway. When I diluted the wort to the O.G. I originally wanted, the yeast petered out. I started with a 1.080+ O.G., and the yeast did their 70-75 % attenuation, my F.G was huge. Then after "restoring" (diluted) the wort based on the O.G. I had a really sweet beer that didn't want to carb up. Just my .02