New to kegs, Filter before Kegging? Any other tips?

[HealeyA87]

I got a kegerator kit for christmas. I will be brewing a kit this weekend. So I have a couple weeks to figure this out. This will be my first time Kegging. One
Of my biggest issues with bottling is all the sediment. So naturally I want to keg. so I was wondering is filtering was a good option. If I filter, I'm just going to get a #10 filter housing with a sediment filter considering a 3 or 5 micron for the IPA I'm gonna brew (I understand that if I brew a wheat beer I don't want to filter) but would I want to filter? Or would cold crashing do the same? I want clear beer and I want to be able to bottle from the keg and not have any sediment in the bottles.

Also any other Kegging tips for the first time are welcomed.

 

[Powhatan]

DISCLAIMER! I'm no expert, but I use a whirlflok tablet at the end of the boil. Ferment 3-4 week for most styles I brew. Then go straight to the keg, chill & carb. After about a week, to a week and a half, it's carbed and ready. Draw the first pint and toss, as it pulls any yeast that settled. Everything from that point forward is clear beer. I don't use a filter. I hope I'm not passing on bad information

 

[raysmithtx]

I agree. Some fining during the last 5 minutes of the boil and after a week or so in the keg you will be getting clear beer from the keg. No filtering necessary.

 

[HealeyA87]

Ok cool. Sounds good

 

[Firewalker11]

I do all pressurized fermentation inside the keg, filter from keg to keg and cold crash/serve from the keg. I am the outlier I guess since I use a 1 micron spun filter to filter my beer and cider and since I dont have any loose trub in the wort (all hops are in bags) due to pouring the wort through a strainer bag when it goes into the keg, all of the solids drop out to the bottom and get pulled out away from the draw tube when I take samples.

Worse case; I get clogged and pull the filter, drop a new one in and keep filtering while I am cleaning the first one. Never happened but I am ready.

I also overcarb and fill bottles with a simple growler filler and I have perfect carbonation in the bottle.

 

[HealeyA87]

Ok cool

 

[Sailingeric]

If you gas carb, no need to filter. I cold crash and then keg and carb, at most I just pull and pull the first pint to get any additional sediments.

 

[HealeyA87]

That seems like what I'm gonna do. Cold crash and force carb.

 

[The_Bishop]

Clear Beer How to: (One method, anyhow)

1. Make sure fermenting is complete.

2. Crash fermenter down to as close to 32f/0c as you can.

3. Prepare magic clearing solution.
3a. Clean and sanitize a microwave safe vessel. I use a 1 cup pyrex measuring cup.
3b. Add 1/2 cup of water to said cup.
3c. Add 1/2 packet of knox unflavored gelatin to water. Allow to 'bloom' for 5-10 minutes.
3d. Microwave, in bursts, to around 150-160F/65-70c.

4. Add magic clearing solution to beer in fermenter. Just pour it right in! No stirring.

5. Continue to cold-crash an additional 2-3 days. Longer will get you clearer beer, to a point. At the 3 day mark the beer is usually brilliantly clear.

6. Keg or bottle. Unless you cold-crashed for an extended time, there's plenty of yeast to bottle condition. Best part about bottle conditioning after cold crashing is the sediment in the bottle is usually a minimum dusting of yeast on the bottom of the bottle, and it's usually packed down pretty hard so you can pour the whole bottle. With a keg you can move it around without the fear of a 'muddy' pour.

No filtering necessary.

 

[govner1]

I agree w/ the recommendations re finings. I usually use Irish Moss @ 15 min. I whirlpool while chilling as well. This eliminates a lot of trub. I also go to secondary w/ almost all my beers (not to start the argument re secondary or Nita, it works for me). I then put in a keg & cold crash for 24 hours and carb.
I also have several kegs w/ the Clear Draught Beer attachment. These work very well & you get clear pours from your first pint.

 

[k1ngl1ves]

Filtering isn't really necessary if you whirlfloc, cold crash, and rack carefully to leave trub in the fermenter. Most of my kegs will have less than an ounce of goo in the bottom when they kick, and maybe 6 ounces of junk in my first pour. Clear the rest of the way! I never use gelatin and I have crystal clear beer... that is, when I want clear beer. Lol!


Other tips:


Purge your keg with co2 before and after racking.

3/16" lines. Stay away from 1/4" if possible. Usually about 1ft. for every pound of co2, give or take. For me, 10 1/2 ft. of tubing at 12psi at 38° gives the perfect pour. Coil it up and set it on top of the keg. I zip tie mine into neat coils. Should clear up any foaming issues.

It will very with different types of setup, beer types & target carbonation, the Earth's rotation, if you're wearing boxers or briefs, flip flops or high tops, voodoo hexes, what you ate for lunch, menstrual cycles in your 5 mile radius, and arguments about if Pluto is really a planet or not.

Generally though, 1ft of 3/16" line for every pound of co2. Keep cutting a little off at a time until you get the pour you are searching for.


Don't be fooled by "food grade" co2. It's a gimmick to extract more cash from you. There's no proof of a benefit to you to use "food grade" co2. Complete garbage and fear mongering. (Now I'll wait for the tin foil hat people to comment in anger and nonsense)

Buy Perlicks. Stainless. You'll never regret it.

Buy Taprite regs. Again, you'll never regret it.

Buy Keg Lube. It's the duct tape of the Kegging World.

Buy used equipment. Check the For Sale section here and on Craigslist. Kegging is not cheap! Lol! You can save a fortune if you're patient. Also check places like www.ritebrew.com and www.homebrewing.org for parts and used kegs. The later usually is the best price around for "loose handle" kegs. A bargain, and fix up nicely with a dab of Gorilla Glue... if even necessary.

Take apart your kegs a few times and understand how they work. Don't over tighten the posts. Hand tighten down, then a quarter turn (or less) is sufficient. Trust me on this! Keg lube all the seals.


Get a spray bottle of soapy water. You're gonna need it being a first time kegger. Lol!

I'm sure there's more, but I'm lazy...

 

[passedpawn]

I keg and occasionally filter. Filtering can be a major pain in the ass. The only benefit is the beer is clear more quickly. Note that you need to have fairly clear beer first, before you filter, or else you'll just be clogging the filters, and that's the mess.

So, I'd recommend skipping the filtering altogether.

 

[HealeyA87]

Thanks guys(or gals) this is some good info

 

[HealeyA87]

I have managed to put no money into my entire leg setup so far. I got 2 kegs on a trade for some stuff I got for free, the "kegerator conversion kit" was a Christmas gift, the fridge I'm gonna convert was free, so in hardly any money into this setup. I was given a co2 tank but it's in bad shape and I don't think it's good to use so I may have to find another co2 tank. But so far I'm definitely getting into legging for almost nothing

 

[Gavin C]

I have managed to put no money into my entire leg setup so far. I got 2 kegs on a trade for some stuff I got for free, the "kegerator conversion kit" was a Christmas gift, the fridge I'm gonna convert was free, so in hardly any money into this setup. I was given a co2 tank but it's in bad shape and I don't think it's good to use so I may have to find another co2 tank. But so far I'm definitely getting into legging for almost nothing

Here is a little bit about getting clear beer.

You might find some titbits of info useful (or not)

 

[HealeyA87]

Thanks!

 

[The_Bishop]

Buy Perlicks. Stainless. You'll never regret it.

I have to disagree with you here. Perlicks used to be one of the best. They've been unceremoniously kicked right out of that throne and now it belongs to the new Ventmatic faucets. Hands down, the best money I spent on faucets.

I'm going to be shortening the lines in my keezer after installing the ventmatics and running them for a bit, the pour is so much smoother that I actually have a hard time getting a decent head on my beer.

 

[passedpawn]

I have to disagree with you here. Perlicks used to be one of the best. They've been unceremoniously kicked right out of that throne and now it belongs to the new Ventmatic faucets. Hands down, the best money I spent on faucets.

I'm going to be shortening the lines in my keezer after installing the ventmatics and running them for a bit, the pour is so much smoother that I actually have a hard time getting a decent head on my beer.

That's interesting. Are there different models? What do you recommend?

 

[soccerdad]

Draw the first pint and toss...

Oh you poor misguided souls. Toss that cloudy beer into my glass ! Half the fun of kicking the keg is getting the next one in place and drawing / drinking until li draws clear.

 

[The_Bishop]

That's interesting. Are there different models? What do you recommend?

There's just the one, with different finishes and interchangeable spouts:

http://www.vent-matic.com/

From what I gather, there's also a stout nozzle in the works, so you can use the same faucet for a nitro stout pour just by swapping nozzles.

 

[passedpawn]

There's just the one, with different finishes and interchangeable spouts:

http://www.vent-matic.com/

From what I gather, there's also a stout nozzle in the works, so you can use the same faucet for a nitro stout pour just by swapping nozzles.

I see the nut and cap on the tap stem are chromed brass. While not a show-stopper, I really like the idea of 100% SS. I wonder if Perlick's are also chromed brass?

 

[The_Bishop]

My Perlick's nut and cap were chromed brass. It's a combination of being easier to machine, and not in contact with the product so it keeps the costs down a bit. It's a non-issue if you ask me.

The video of the pour on the site is pretty amazing; that's a far faster pour with the right head than I was *ever* able to get out of the perlicks. And yes, my tower and the taps are actively cooled, to the point that during the warmer weather a morning ritual is wiping the condensation down in the morning.

 

[passedpawn]

My Perlick's nut and cap were chromed brass. It's a combination of being easier to machine, and not in contact with the product so it keeps the costs down a bit. It's a non-issue if you ask me.

The video of the pour on the site is pretty amazing; that's a far faster pour with the right head than I was *ever* able to get out of the perlicks. And yes, my tower and the taps are actively cooled, to the point that during the warmer weather a morning ritual is wiping the condensation down in the morning.

We're probably way off topic now I'll replace 2 of my four taps with these VM and start a review thread at some point in the future.

 

[physics911]

Back to the topic of from primary to keg.
I've read many times to primary for a few weeks, gelatin and cold crash, then carefully rack, and after a day or two the first pint will be cloudy and then clear thereafter. This "first pint" is where I have questions.
Up until now I have been letting my beer, usually a pale ale or something like that, sit in the primary for a month, then secondary, at around 60 degrees, for another month or so, adding gelatin about a week before bottling or kegging. At the end I have a good inch or so of sediment in the secondary. I understand that gelatin works better at lower temperature. So I guess my question is, is it really about a pint of cloudy beer using the primary-gelatin-crash-keg method, or is it more like a definitely cloudy pint, then a slightly cloudy pint, then a hazy pint, and then a clear pint by #5 or so?

 

[Gavin C]

Back to the topic of from primary to keg.
I've read many times to primary for a few weeks, gelatin and cold crash, then carefully rack, and after a day or two the first pint will be cloudy and then clear thereafter. This "first pint" is where I have questions.
Up until now I have been letting my beer, usually a pale ale or something like that, sit in the primary for a month, then secondary, at around 60 degrees, for another month or so, adding gelatin about a week before bottling or kegging. At the end I have a good inch or so of sediment in the secondary. I understand that gelatin works better at lower temperature. So I guess my question is, is it really about a pint of cloudy beer using the primary-gelatin-crash-keg method, or is it more like a definitely cloudy pint, then a slightly cloudy pint, then a hazy pint, and then a clear pint by #5 or so?

Usually I get less than 12 oz of cloudy. I've had some beers pour clear after 2oz. Then crystal clear. It's not a gradual change.

If your getting that much sediment in a second vessel after a month primary I think it points to some room for improvement in your racking technique.

 

[physics911]

Gavin,
You are right about my racking. After I carried the primary up from the basement, I wouldn't always give it a day to settle on the counter before racking to the secondary, because I knew it would settle out in the secondary. When I go from secondary to bottle, I am much more careful.

I've got a Vienna lager, a pale ale, and a fat tire clone just about done now. I'll give the cold crash and keg a shot with those this time.

 

[HealeyA87]

How long do I cold crash?

 

[Gavin C]

How long do I cold crash?

I crash, the next day I add gelatin, the next day I rack the beer to keg. But you could elect to go longer without any problems.

This time-frame works for me. My view is the sooner I get my finished, cooled & fined beer in the keg on gas the better.

 

[HealeyA87]

I don't have gelatin, would I be ok just to cold crash for a day then keg?

 

[k1ngl1ves]

I don't have gelatin, would I be ok just to cold crash for a day then keg?

Not really, but a few days should do it! Get it down as close to 33°f as possible. I don't use gelatin. Just fining agent in the boil initially, then a 3 day cold crash. Rack carefully.


You don't need a "special" gelatin either. Many people use the Knox flavorless gelatin you can buy at your local grocery store for a $1 a box. Same stuff without the insane markup from a lhbs.

 

[Gavin C]

I don't have gelatin, would I be ok just to cold crash for a day then keg?

Yes. Things drop fast at ~31F I'd probably do 2 though

Gelatin is available in any grocery store should you elect to get some you've time. No big deal.

USA

UK

 

[HealeyA87]

If I add gelatin tomorrow, the earliest I would be able to keg would be Friday. Because I work Thursday

 

[Gavin C]

If I add gelatin tomorrow, the earliest I would be able to keg would be Friday. Because I work Thursday

Sounds ideal.

• Cool beer to as close to beer freezing as practical.
  
• Add gelatin
  
• Keg at the weekend.
  
• Enjoy delicious clear beer on Superbowl Sunday

 

[HealeyA87]

Hmmmmmm. Ok.

 

[HealeyA87]

If I get gelatin do I just pour the package in the carboy or do I need a certain amount

 

[Gavin C]

If I get gelatin do I just pour the package in the carboy or do I need a certain amount

No.

Here is what I do.

Sanitise a beaker.

Use microwave in short bursts (30-40 seconds is usually fine)

Cover beaker with a sanitised saucer or foil during the 10 minute wait.

I add the gelatin to the FV through a SS baster placed below the beer surface. (arguably not important, just pour it gently in)

No swirling/shaking of the FV for me as many folks seem to advocate.

 

[HealeyA87]

Awesome.

Now out of Curiosity, what would happen if I cold crash for one day at around 33-34° and kegged? As far as flavor. I ask because I'm about to keg an IPA, and I leave on February 11 until February 27th for army training, and I will have about a week to drink what I can then I leave. . I'm afraid I will lose flavor after it sits for those 2.5 weeks. So at this point I want to have it ready sooner, I can handle it not be perfectly clear for this one.

 

[Gavin C]

Awesome.

Now out of Curiosity, what would happen if I cold crash for one day at around 33-34° and kegged? As far as flavor. I ask because I'm about to keg an IPA, and I leave on February 11 until February 27th for army training, and I will have about a week to drink what I can then I leave. . I'm afraid I will lose flavor after it sits for those 2.5 weeks. So at this point I want to have it ready sooner, I can handle it not be perfectly clear for this one.

With an IPA, many folks advise against gelatin as it will strip more of the cloud inducing hop-oils from the beer. Particularly true if there has been a large dry-hop.

Cloudiness in a "To-style IPA" is not a flaw and many would argue is desirable.

But no. 2.5 weeks in the keg your golden. If you really want the beer to punch with fresh hoppyness, try a keg hopping. This takes a couple of weeks to really becoume a pronounced aroma if the beer is cold. I've done that with an APA and an IPA and the beer just gets more hoppy as you drink it.

All depends on what you want. More hop oils and aroma/flavor with poorer clarity or more clarity less aroma/flavor.

I'm no IPA guru. Many will disagree. Personally I favor clarity and find no disadvantage to keg hopping with leaf hops in a bag in a keg WRT clarity. I have an IPA on tap now I dry hopped and keg hopped and added no finings. It is cloudy but very hoppy.

 

[HealeyA87]

Cloudy beer doesn't bother me. I just don't want a ton of sediment in any that I decide to bottle. This is an IPA and I want the flavor. So I don't care about it being cloudy. It has been dry hopped with 2 oz of hop pellets. I put it in the fridge to cold crash at about 12:15 this afternoon. I want to enjoy this brew, if I keg tomorrow or Friday. And then force carbonate and it's ready by Super Bowl Sunday. I will have 4 days and then I will be gone for 2.5 weeks. I don't want to lose any flavor while I'm gone. I'm afraid that when I get back, it will lose the hop flavors, is this wrong. Am I worrying about nothing?

 

[ruascott]

I've had recent success with cold crashing for just 24 hours, then racking. Longer I'm sure would be better....but I got pretty clear beer within 6 hours of kegging....including rocking/burst carbing the keg.