New recipe. Trillium NE IPA stylet

[BrewerBen82]

Hello all. New to this forum/site

I am new at home brewing myself. I've watched friends brew and understand the overall process and equipment. Love drinking beer. So I needed a new hobby to enjoy. I purchased Northern Brewer deluxe starter kit, a kettle kit, hydrometer and all other basic tools needed. Also got some ingredients to make up my own recipes. Please see recipe below and add any comments and suggestions. I have outlined the recipe details and timeline of brewing,fermenting and dry hop schedules. View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1494686500.485943.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1494686512.536511.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1494686521.791333.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1494686529.588169.jpg

 

[marjen]

If you are going for a trillium style beer reduce your boil hop additions. I use .25 oz @ 60 mins and .75 oz @ 10 mins. Then add flavor hops at flame out and or under 180 hops stand.

I got VERY close to their last using the following:
.25 oz @ 60 mins
.75 oz @ 10 mins
2 oz at flameout then just adding my flavor hops (mosaic, citra) during the dry hop period. Was an excellent beer and tasted like a Melcher St

 

[BrewerBen82]

Thanks for your input. Yea maybe I should reduce the boil hops. I do want some Hop zing to the taste, but not a big bitter beer. Maybe .75@ 60 .5 of each at 10 min then add what I subtracted to flame out and dry hopping.

 

[BrewerBen82]

Another guy said he doesn't rack to secondary and offered this advice. I'm wondering how his beer was. Seems pretty quick. But I'm def not an expert. "Im an advocate for not racking to secondary, especially because its a NE IPA. Most of the breweries cranking these out do so in less than 10 days grain to glass. I give mine 7 days for primary, then dryhop, then bottle. Roughly 3 weeks before I try my first bottle."

 

[Yooper]

Another guy said he doesn't rack to secondary and offered this advice. I'm wondering how his beer was. Seems pretty quick. But I'm def not an expert. "Im an advocate for not racking to secondary, especially because its a NE IPA. Most of the breweries cranking these out do so in less than 10 days grain to glass. I give mine 7 days for primary, then dryhop, then bottle. Roughly 3 weeks before I try my first bottle."

Yes, that seems like a good schedule, as long as the primary is done by about day 5.

I would not steep flaked oats. Either leave them out, or add some base grain (1 pound) and steep them together at 150-155 for 45 minutes. If you steep oats without a base grain, all you get is starch. It'll make it hazy, but you don't want a starch haze in your beer. Starch also means it will go bad quick. You want to convert the starch in the oats, so they'll have to be mashed with a base grain if used.

 

[BrewerBen82]

Hmm. It's more for added mouthfeel of the beer. https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/how-to-brew/impact-flaked-oats-new-england-ipa/

 

[marjen]

No secondary needed. I am usually in the keg in 7-10 days max. Depends on yeast though.

 

[Yooper]

Hmm. It's more for added mouthfeel of the beer. https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/how-to-brew/impact-flaked-oats-new-england-ipa/

Yes, of course. There would be no other reason to use them.

But you have to mash them with a base malt. 1 pound of two-row will do.

 

[bobeer]

Hmm. It's more for added mouthfeel of the beer. https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/how-to-brew/impact-flaked-oats-new-england-ipa/

Yooper is correct, as usual! You need to mash oats with a base malt. Mashing will convert the starches to sugar which is what you want.

You don't have to mash all grains for extract batches (IE: crystal and roasted grain) but oats are one that you must mash.

 

[BrewerBen82]

I have some Belgian Cara 8 light pale malt. Think I that would work?

 

[Yooper]

I have some Belgian Cara 8 light pale malt. Think I that would work?

No, that's a crystal malt.

You need a base malt. US two-row, or any two-row actually. Pilsner malt, maris otter, US two-row, etc.

 

[madscientist451]

You need to mash oats with a base malt. Mashing will convert the starches to sugar which is what you want.

You don't have to mash all grains for extract batches (IE: crystal and roasted grain) but oats are one that you must mash.

The exception to the above would be if you can get matled oats.
Its a somewhat hard to find, oddball item, but you can make a 100% malted oat beer, so it will convert itself. The last few times I tried to get some it was unavailable from my supplier.

 

[BrewerBen82]

I have liquid pilsner malt in the extract bill. But not in the grain steeping.

 

[Yooper]

I have liquid pilsner malt in the extract bill. But not in the grain steeping.

When you use a flaked grain, a base grain is needed. So you'd want a pound of base malt grain. Or, leave the oats out. Without a base grain, the oats will be a starch in the wort and won't ferment. You don't want starch in your wort. LME is fine to use for your beer- but in the mash you need a base grain or have to leave the oats out.

 

[BrewerBen82]

Thanks for the input. I'll leave it out this time. Adjusted. Figuring 76% for yeast attenuation. View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1494903210.751069.jpgrView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1494903223.013811.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1494903231.207391.jpg

 

[BrewerBen82]

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