***NEW PRODUCT*** The Yeast Brink from Nor Cal Brewing Solutions

[GreenMonti]

To add to this with an engineering hat. The exact formula is:

p = 0.433 h SG

where
p = pressure (psi)
h = head (ft) (the total height of fluid)
SG = specific gravity of the fluid (water at 62 Deg. F. is 1.0)

So, 0.433 x 3.16 ft. x 1.03 SG (still fermenting) = 1.41 PSI

Well lookee there. I was pretty close for pulling rough math out of the air. I mean....my head.

Thanks Grant for the long hand version.

 

[Jaybird]

What would the overall height for the assembled 2" sight glass version be? From top t clamp to bottom t clamp. Reason I ask is I have very limited clearance under my conical after the butterfly dump valve.

Thanks

9.5" Total OAL

Cheers
Jay

 

[Jaybird]

At aprox 38” height, that’s about 1.3 PSI. So keeping it simple, at 1.4 PSI you’d be slowly pushing fluid back into the fermentor.

Again, it’s not about the amount of liquid. It’s the height of the column. 3 or 5 BBL fermentors come in all different shapes. The width is the main point I’m thinking of in this case. Cylinders are quite special in the way that doubling the diameter will quadruple the capacity that it will hold. Doing nothing to increase the PSI even though there’s more liquid. Since the height of the cylinder was not increased.

I’m mentioning this again so others don’t get the wrong impression about volumes and pressures. Aprox 38” under the surface in the great wide ocean will still be about 1.3 PSI.​

To add to this with an engineering hat. The exact formula is:

p = 0.433 h SG

where
p = pressure (psi)
h = head (ft) (the total height of fluid)
SG = specific gravity of the fluid (water at 62 Deg. F. is 1.0)

So, 0.433 x 3.16 ft. x 1.03 SG (still fermenting) = 1.41 PSI

If you have a fermentor that is 30 feet tall with a water level of 25 feet it would be

0.433 x 25.0 FT x 1.03 SG = 11.15 PSI.

If you wanted to get really crazy you could add the valve if it isn't a full port valve which would have an equivalent pressure drop in foot of head.

Brew engineering fun. Enough of that I need a beer.

I like the product by the way.

[/QUOTE]
Well that was fun, makes total sense to me.... Thanks for the engineering insight I will have to ask the owner of Fall River brewing company if I can borrow a 120 BBL fermenter and just do a quick test. I bet he will let me..LOL

Cheers
Jay

 

[Jaybird]

For the 3" version would there be enough room on the top cap to run a 1 1/2" downtube as well as the gas port? In other words if one has a 1 1/2" or 2" dump valve there would be less restriction (straight run) into the sight glass, thus preventing any clogging issues while harvesting/injecting yeast, or dry hopping.

Thanks

Not sure what downcomer tubes we will be using. But more than likely the 1.5" if it will all fit. the 2" we are bound to the 1" tubing because of the size of the cap.

Cheers
Jay

 

[ttuato]

I do not own the yeast brink nor do I own a conical - HOWEVER I do own a Jaybird modded Speidel fermentor and the yeast harvester this yeast brink is based off of. I asked a question earlier in the thread about using these to mimic the yeast brink advertised here (dry hopping specifically)- it worked! Here is a couple of pics of the setup.

I did some test batches first - 9-10oz is MAX amount hop pellets in the HALF GALLON jar. Any more and it is just sludge that will not move.

Adding beer to dryhop. Before doing this, I purged the jar with nitro and CO2, let it set for a few minutes - then purged again then tightened the TC clamp. This jar had 7.5oz hops and took about 40secs to push it all back into fermentor. When the flow slowed it was because the sludge started compacted the barb, I would just shake it a little and it would flow back in.

Now I can LODO dry hop my hazy IPAs then cold crash in my psuedo unitank and only transfer “clear” beer into kegs. Thanks @Jaybird !!!

 

[Jaybird]

ABSOLUTELY! Thanks for the video! That is an outstanding way to use the system! I LOVE IT!

Cheers
Jay

 

[alphakry]

This design is awesome!! I'd like to try this on my spike CF30's and will be picking one up along with a few other items from Nor Cal. Any current discounts or coupons going on for HBT members?

 

[Jaybird]

This design is awesome!! I'd like to try this on my spike CF30's and will be picking one up along with a few other items from Nor Cal. Any current discounts or coupons going on for HBT members?

PM inbound....

Cheers
Jay

 

[Logan1891]

Jaybird,

Any thoughts on building this on a smaller scale? Maybe a 16oz mason jar design with a NPT fitting instead of TC? I was thinking about adapting this for use with my stainless steel bucket fermenter. My plan was to use it for dry hopping rather than yeast harvesting.

 

[Jaybird]

1.5 " converted to 2"
Only way we can do it. If I add the 2" connection the canning jars ring will simply not go on.

Cheers
Jay

 

[alphakry]

and how about the bigger scale? any progress on those larger volume sight glasses?

 

[Jaybird]

Jaybird,

Any thoughts on building this on a smaller scale? Maybe a 16oz mason jar design with a NPT fitting instead of TC? I was thinking about adapting this for use with my stainless steel bucket fermenter. My plan was to use it for dry hopping rather than yeast harvesting.

I can do that for you as a Custom build. Shoot me a PM with exactly what you want. I'll quote it for you.

Cheers
Jay

 

[Jaybird]

and how about the bigger scale? any progress on those larger volume sight glasses?

I have 3" Sight glasses on the way. I had an issue with a shipment due to the "NEW US LAWS" and importing. But I think we have it all taken care of and should see the 3" Sight Glasses very soon!

I'll post up picts when they get here.

Cheers
Jay

 

[alphakry]

awesome, thanks Jaybird. And to confirm, the 3" sight glass you refer to is a 3" TC connection and requires an adapter for use on 2" or 1.5"? can you clarify the internal fl oz measurement between each sight glass option?

 

[Jaybird]

awesome, thanks Jaybird. And to confirm, the 3" sight glass you refer to is a 3" TC connection and requires an adapter for use on 2" or 1.5"? can you clarify the internal fl oz measurement between each sight glass option?

I will be able to confirm the OZ of the 3" when they get here. The 3" Sight glass option will be available with both 2" and 1.5" Tri Clover connections. The 3" is ONLY the connection to the sight glass.

Cheers
Jay

 

[Sbe2]

View attachment 619181 1.5 " converted to 2"
Only way we can do it. If I add the 2" connection the canning jars ring will simply not go on.

Cheers
Jay

Do you have a price on this set up?

 

[Jaybird]

Do you have a price on this set up?

The Reducer is $17.99 and is online as an option with all the Brink listings, or should be anyway.
But here is the link to the reducer.

https://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Tri-Clover-2-Inch-to-1.5-Inch-Reducer.html


Here is the Brink kit with jar included. We do offer without the jars also. Just search BRINK on the search.

https://www.norcalbrewingsolutions....5-Inch-64-Oz-Canning-Jar-Yeast-Brink-Kit.html

Cheers
Jay

 

[ttuato]

I do not own the yeast brink nor do I own a conical - HOWEVER I do own a Jaybird modded Speidel fermentor and the yeast harvester this yeast brink is based off of. I asked a question earlier in the thread about using these to mimic the yeast brink advertised here (dry hopping specifically)- it worked! Here is a couple of pics of the setup.

I did some test batches first - 9-10oz is MAX amount hop pellets in the HALF GALLON jar. Any more and it is just sludge that will not move.

Adding beer to dryhop. Before doing this, I purged the jar with nitro and CO2, let it set for a few minutes - then purged again then tightened the TC clamp. This jar had 7.5oz hops and took about 40secs to push it all back into fermentor. When the flow slowed it was because the sludge started compacted the barb, I would just shake it a little and it would flow back in.

View attachment 607408



Now I can LODO dry hop my hazy IPAs then cold crash in my psuedo unitank and only transfer “clear” beer into kegs. Thanks @Jaybird !!!

I recently switched to the FLEX+ and the same process I outlined before works flawlessly with this fermenter.

 

[zeptrey]

Do you ferment in the Speidel under pressure?

 

[ttuato]

Do you ferment in the Speidel under pressure?

I "spund" with a few points left before FG. I used to use a spund valve attached with adjustable pressure but the 20lb spring in the norcal ball lock / PRV lid does the trick good enough. It has never exceeded 17lbs on my gauge.

 

[alibremo]

I do not own the yeast brink nor do I own a conical - HOWEVER I do own a Jaybird modded Speidel fermentor and the yeast harvester this yeast brink is based off of. I asked a question earlier in the thread about using these to mimic the yeast brink advertised here (dry hopping specifically)- it worked! Here is a couple of pics of the setup.

I did some test batches first - 9-10oz is MAX amount hop pellets in the HALF GALLON jar. Any more and it is just sludge that will not move.

Adding beer to dryhop. Before doing this, I purged the jar with nitro and CO2, let it set for a few minutes - then purged again then tightened the TC clamp. This jar had 7.5oz hops and took about 40secs to push it all back into fermentor. When the flow slowed it was because the sludge started compacted the barb, I would just shake it a little and it would flow back in.

View attachment 607408



Now I can LODO dry hop my hazy IPAs then cold crash in my psuedo unitank and only transfer “clear” beer into kegs. Thanks @Jaybird !!!

Could I somehow do this dry hop process through the top of the BrewZilla All Rounder fermentor with the pressure kit? What components would I need to buy to do it?

 

[ttuato]

Could I somehow do this dry hop process through the top of the BrewZilla All Rounder fermentor with the pressure kit? What components would I need to buy to do it?

No @alibremo sorry. That is just a regular ball lock. You gotta have a big bore to push the sludge through. Preferably a 1.5" TC or at the very least a 0.5" ball ball valve (ball valves are not good idea on cold side but can work if good with sanitation.

 

[CodeSection]

@Jaybird, your 3" Sight Glass Yeast Brink worked perfectly yesterday when I used it to inject spice into my Pocahontas Pumpkin Ale! As can be seen in the pictures below, the 45 degree elbow and the 2" to 1.5" TC adapter worked great when I attached everything to my Spike CF10 racking arm.

This yeast brink is perfect for my needs. I plan on using it to inject spices and hops into the fermenter as it is a great way to avoid opening the fermenter up and exposing the wort/beer to O2.

For my current batch that finished fermenting, I mixed McCormick's Pumpkin Spice with sterilized RO water. Then I filled the sight glass full of beer before injecting it back into the fermenter. After that, I repeatedly filled and injected back into the fermenter four more times to insure there was an adequate mix.

The pictures below show how it looked before I filled it with beer the first time.

 

[k-daddy]

@CodeSection, that's given me an idea. I'm working on a double dry hopped IPA and this morning, I ended up dumping most of the first dry hop through the dump valve so I could then collect (liquid) beer in my yeast brink for the second dry hop. I think next time I'll take the jar (with the 2nd. dry hop pellets) and connect it to the racking port to avoid dumping the first dry hops that have settled at the dump valve, wait for the pellets to break down, and send it back in so the first dry hop can remain in the conical. My one concern is if the hop mush will be able to flow in through the angled racking arm without clogging up.

 

[CodeSection]

@CodeSection, that's given me an idea. I'm working on a double dry hopped IPA and this morning, I ended up dumping most of the first dry hop through the dump valve so I could then collect (liquid) beer in my yeast brink for the second dry hop. I think next time I'll take the jar (with the 2nd. dry hop pellets) and connect it to the racking port to avoid dumping the first dry hops that have settled at the dump valve, wait for the pellets to break down, and send it back in so the first dry hop can remain in the conical. My one concern is if the hop mush will be able to flow in through the angled racking arm without clogging up.

For hops injection, I was planning on using the dump valve after dumping the yeast/trub. Like you, without reading of experiences from others, I would be concerned injecting hops mush through the racking arm. I guess you could do a little at a time. But that could take forever if your adding a few ounces to a 10 gallon batch.

Please let us know if you try it and if it works.

 

[k-daddy]

For hops injection, I was planning on using the dump valve after dumping the yeast/trub. Like you, without reading of experiences from others, I would be concerned injecting hops mush through the racking arm. I guess you could do a little at a time. But that could take forever if your adding a few ounces to a 10 gallon batch.

Please let us know if you try it and if it works.

Yes, that's how I injected the first dry hop. Injecting the second dry hop using the dump valve was the issue. If you don't dump the first dry hop in advance, the thick slurry will end up in the yeast brink and present difficulties in dissolving the new hops in the brink. Next time I'm going to inject the second dry hop through the racking arm. I'm hoping that, given adequate time for the beer to breakdown the pellets combined with a few pounds of co2 pressure, the hops will be driven up through the racking arm and the first dry hop can remain undisturbed at the bottom of the conical. On a side note, I do like the tip described in post #26 on purging the o2 from the yeast brink. Keeping o2 from the finished beer really makes you think at times.

 

[CodeSection]

...On a side note, I do like the tip described in post #26 on purging the o2 from the yeast brink. Keeping o2 from the finished beer really makes you think at times.

I purge the O2 differently than what was posted in #26. I follow Jay’s method of attaching a gas ball lock to the yeast brink’s gas post and have the end of the tubing in Starsan. Then when I open up the racking or dump valve and fill up the sight glass to the top, O2 is purged out of the sight glass.

 

[Jaybird]

@Jaybird, your 3" Sight Glass Yeast Brink worked perfectly yesterday when I used it to inject spice into my Pocahontas Pumpkin Ale! As can be seen in the pictures below, the 45 degree elbow and the 2" to 1.5" TC adapter worked great when I attached everything to my Spike CF10 racking arm.

This yeast brink is perfect for my needs. I plan on using it to inject spices and hops into the fermenter as it is a great way to avoid opening the fermenter up and exposing the wort/beer to O2.

For my current batch that finished fermenting, I mixed McCormick's Pumpkin Spice with sterilized RO water. Then I filled the sight glass full of beer before injecting it back into the fermenter. After that, I repeatedly filled and injected back into the fermenter four more times to insure there was an adequate mix.

The pictures below show how it looked before I filled it with beer the first time.

View attachment 654859

View attachment 654860

Man... Do I love to see a project like this come together! AWESOME!

Cheers
Jay

 

[matt_m]

Question on this as I'm about to use mine for the first time, on a dry hopped beer. I'm assuming people are keeping the dump valve closed until you are ready to dump yeast, dumping, cleaning and sanitizing, then injecting the dry hop?

I've always used a sight glass so I've had an idea what the yeast were doing but can't fit the sight glass above the valve with this setup so I'll be going "blind".

 

[CodeSection]

Question on this as I'm about to use mine for the first time, on a dry hopped beer. I'm assuming people are keeping the dump valve closed until you are ready to dump yeast, dumping, cleaning and sanitizing, then injecting the dry hop?

I've always used a sight glass so I've had an idea what the yeast were doing but can't fit the sight glass above the valve with this setup so I'll be going "blind".

You don't need a sight glass when dumping trub/yeast. Yes, the 2" dump valve remains closed until you are ready to dump everything.

My process includes using a 2" TC with a 18" silicone hose, attach it to the 2" dump valve and crack the valve one click and let the trub/yeast slowly pour out into a Pyrex 64 oz measuring cup (I measure everything so as I can refine the recipe). You might need to open the valve two clicks and then once flowing, reduce to one click.

After you have finished dumping, close the valve and sanitize the 2" valve with Starsan making sure you spray the top portion to remove all the remaining trub/yeast stuck to the sides. Attach your clean and sanitized and hop filled yeast brink to the 2" valve with a blow off line attached to the gas post and going to a glass filled with Starsan solution. Start filling the yeast brink with beer to the top.

Let the solution sit for an hour plus until the hops turn to mush. Once they are mush, put CO2 on the yeast brink, THEN open the 2" valve and inject into the concical. Close the valve FIRST and THEN disconnect the CO2 once all the hops that can are injected. You will have some hop mush left over, so disconnect the yeast brink from the CO2 and put back the blowoff tube. Repeat refilling with more beer, disconnect blow off tube, add CO2 line and inject again. Repeat until all the hops mush is gone....

Good luck!