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***NEW PRODUCT*** The Yeast Brink from Nor Cal Brewing Solutions

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kingmatt

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we

we do sell a lot of these for guys that do want to purge the system before adding beer to the hops.

https://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Tri-Clover-2-Inch-Corny-Ball-Lock-Gas-Out.html

it gets installed in the bottom in place of the blank cap. We build the 1.5" 2" 3" and 4" TC

Cheers
Jay
When you are using the brink or yeast collector, do you need to have an open vent at the top of the conical? If so, aren't you pulling in oxygen as you dump the yeast/beer into the sight glass/mason jar?

I am thinking you could connect a gas manifold and hook up a C02 tank but I am not sure how you would determine what pressure to set it at to displace the liquid with CO2 (it looks like it dumps pretty quickly with the brink)...
 

Brooothru

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When you are using the brink or yeast collector, do you need to have an open vent at the top of the conical? If so, aren't you pulling in oxygen as you dump the yeast/beer into the sight glass/mason jar?

I am thinking you could connect a gas manifold and hook up a C02 tank but I am not sure how you would determine what pressure to set it at to displace the liquid with CO2 (it looks like it dumps pretty quickly with the brink)...
I'll jump in.

I have and use both the brink and the yeast harvester. With CO2 hooked up to either device you DO put CO2 into the fermenter, but not air if you purge adequately, regardless whether you are pressurized on unpressurized. When unpressurized, as long as you have an airlock in place the excess gas will vent without letting O2 in. When pressurized with a spunding valve in place the excess gas will vent when the tank pressure exceeds the value of the spund's set point.

In either case the CO2 input pressure only needs to exceed tank pressure by 1~2 psi to get a quick 'up siphoning' of yeast or dry hops with the brink. When dumping trub or harvesting yeast the pressure differential needs to be reversed, or just let gravity do the work. But when dumping or harvesting you'll need to vent using a gray QD fitting with gas line emptying into a blow off jar to allow the brink or harvester to displace the gas inside. The way to avoid suck back is to create 1~2 psi pressure inside the fermenter and then open the conical's lower dump valve. No air, no suck back.

Brooo Brother
 
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@kingmatt

There is a view right around 2 min 40 sec of what you can expect to see in the kettle when using the exhaust port to vent the oxygen.

CHeers
Jay
 

kingmatt

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@kingmatt

There is a view right around 2 min 40 sec of what you can expect to see in the kettle when using the exhaust port to vent the oxygen.

CHeers
Jay
Thanks, but I am assuming the lid was off the fermenter when you were filming that? My concern isn't air getting in through the dump port, as your device does a good job at venting that, it is pulling air in through the top of the fermenter when the yeast/trub drops into the jar. Sounds like connecting a CO2 tank at 2-3 psi while harvesting will do the trick though
 
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Thanks, but I am assuming the lid was off the fermenter when you were filming that? My concern isn't air getting in through the dump port, as your device does a good job at venting that, it is pulling air in through the top of the fermenter when the yeast/trub drops into the jar. Sounds like connecting a CO2 tank at 2-3 psi while harvesting will do the trick though
Gotcha. Sorry I totally misunderstood. Yes absolutely adding a little pressure with a Co2 tank will work. What I do is use my Co2 harvesting kit and let it do it for me.

Cheers
Jay
 

matt_m

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I got through my first use of the yeast brink OK. Doing a hazy IPA, I definitely tried to do too much hops at one time ended up with a bit of a mess but got through that.

I really disliked not having my sight glass. I guess I use more than I thought to see what's going on in my conical My setup pre-yeast brink was the sight glass, 90, and a valve. I'm thinking about setting up to use the brink like I've shown here. Is the extra 90 between the brink and the valve going to give me trouble?

20200302_122713175_iOS.jpg
 

CodeSection

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I got through my first use of the yeast brink OK. Doing a hazy IPA, I definitely tried to do too much hops at one time ended up with a bit of a mess but got through that.

I really disliked not having my sight glass. I guess I use more than I thought to see what's going on in my conical My setup pre-yeast brink was the sight glass, 90, and a valve. I'm thinking about setting up to use the brink like I've shown here. Is the extra 90 between the brink and the valve going to give me trouble?View attachment 669058
No, that is how I have it setup. I like your straight sight glass setup. If you are worried about oxygen in the 90 degree elbow, you can loosen the TC at the outside of the valve and purge the yeast brink and 90 degree elbow with CO2 before opening the valve to allow beer to flow into the yeast brink and mix with the hops.
 

Brooothru

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I got through my first use of the yeast brink OK. Doing a hazy IPA, I definitely tried to do too much hops at one time ended up with a bit of a mess but got through that.

I really disliked not having my sight glass. I guess I use more than I thought to see what's going on in my conical My setup pre-yeast brink was the sight glass, 90, and a valve. I'm thinking about setting up to use the brink like I've shown here. Is the extra 90 between the brink and the valve going to give me trouble?

View attachment 669058
I wouldn't think it would. What's the inside diameter of the 90 degree pipes? Some are larger bore than others, and smaller might have some restriction. Gravity as well as any pressure you have in the tank should take care of it however.

I know what you mean about the sight glass. I've got a mini (~2") one that allows me to mount "dump port, sight glass, butterfly valve, yeast brink" in a single vertical drop with no bends. The biggest restriction is the I.D. of the mini sight glass which can create flow problems with trub dumping or yeast harvesting if I allow it to get too compacted. Cycling the butterfly valve or applying a couple psi of gas to the fermenter seems to get it flowing eventually. Just be patient and be ready to immediately close the valve when flow starts, because it can quickly fill the brink and also blow a hole through the trub or yeast inside the bottom of the conical's cone. If it does that you'll be 'dumping' beer while leaving leftover trub or unharvested yeast in the conical. Just crack the valve open enough that is slowly flows once you get it moving.

Brooo Brother
 

matt_m

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I wouldn't think it would. What's the inside diameter of the 90 degree pipes? Some are larger bore than others, and smaller might have some restriction. Gravity as well as any pressure you have in the tank should take care of it however.
The sight glass, 90's, and valve all have approximately the same ID so that shouldn't be too much an issue. If I wait too long to do a dump, especially in a hoppy beer, and everything gets packed down in there I have seen flow issues like you mention with just the sight glass/90/valve.
 

TheMadKing

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Okay - disregard that previous post.

For others that may have thought the same thing - here is the solution:

Attach the dry hop filled yeast brink to the conical but do not fully tighten the triclamp. Apply purge gas a few times and allow the purge to exit around the TC gasket. After purging a few times tighten triclamp and voila - O2 free dryhops
I know this is an old post on an old thread but searching hasn't readily revealed an answer

Has anyone actual checked to see if purging with CO2 like this ACTUALLY removes the oxygen? What pressure? How long?

I would appreciate some input from any of the scientifically minded among you - to my mind it would seem that the sudden influx of high pressure gas would make all kinds of crazy eddys that would effectively just make a mixture of air and CO2 unless you did it for a LONG time. I'm thinking of fluids as an analogy

Fill a bowl with milk, then spray water into it and see how long it takes for it to be totally clear with no sign of milk. Maybe this is a bad analogy though.

I want to buy one of these for my new conical for dry hopping, but I'm trying to think of a way to liquid purge it or something, in order to actually be sure the air is displaced.
 

Zooksta

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I want to buy one of these for my new conical for dry hopping, but I'm trying to think of a way to liquid purge it or something, in order to actually be sure the air is displaced.
I only did this once, but I filled the yeast brink with starsan, pushed it out with co2, then dumped out the leftover starsan through the ball lock port, then added hops and purged again.
 

TheMadKing

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I only did this once, but I filled the yeast brink with starsan, pushed it out with co2, then dumped out the leftover starsan through the ball lock port, then added hops and purged again.
Yeah I thought of doing that - but you introduce air by opening it to the atmosphere again, so it seems marginally more effective than just purging

I did start another thread on this question as it may have the potential to become a larger conversation about purging small spaces (bottles, dry hops, etc)

I know there is an oxygen free dry hopping thread with some interesting ideas on it, maybe this discussion would be best on that thread too... The internet is a messy place
 

Brewbuzzard

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What is a yeast brink you ask? Here ya go. Its a multi purpose yeast harvesting and inoculating tool that you can also use to dry hop AND O2 evacuate your conical!


Here is a link to the actual brink online

1.5

Cheers
Jay
I just watched your video and have to say Brilliant! I also thought of another use which you may already know of. While taste testing my young barleywine I think your product could be used to inject finings into a beer. After injecting just continue to purge with CO2 to lift the finings throughout the beer. I use gelatin and this should work.
 

TheMadKing

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I just watched your video and have to say Brilliant! I also thought of another use which you may already know of. While taste testing my young barleywine I think your product could be used to inject finings into a beer. After injecting just continue to purge with CO2 to lift the finings throughout the beer. I use gelatin and this should work.
yeast, finings, and priming sugar solution all seem like great options
 
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I just watched your video and have to say Brilliant! I also thought of another use which you may already know of. While taste testing my young barleywine I think your product could be used to inject finings into a beer. After injecting just continue to purge with CO2 to lift the finings throughout the beer. I use gelatin and this should work.
NICE! Absolutely!
 

eric19312

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So I used my new 3" sight glass yeast brink to dry hop a hazy IPA this weekend. This was a lot of dry hops and maybe too much for first try. Did not go real well and I'm open to suggestions. Sorry for the long thread...

This was about 17.5 gallons of beer in a CF15 fermentor. The sight glass downcomer was attached to the butterfly valve which was attached directly to the dump port on the cone (no elbow or other hardware in between). On day 3 or 4 of fermentation when yeast was just starting to slow down I opened the fermentor top and added a pound of dry hop pellets. Got some explosive blow off with all those nucleation sites hitting all that actively fermenting beer but got the lid closed without issue and captured most of the mess through my blow off.

Once fermentation appeared done - day 7 - I switched the blow off for a pressure manifold, pressurized the head space to 5 psk and I used the brink to dump two full site glasses worth of yeast, That went really well. I even saved first 25 oz harvested in a sanitized mason jar, looked decent even if a little green. I didn't keep dumping until the cone was clear...

Then I loaded 8oz hop pellets. Should of gone back to this thread and seen where Jay suggested 4-6. 8 was way too much. I attached the sight glass to the valve loosely, purged with CO2, tightened it down, and then filled with beer. And had a hop brick in my site glass. Never turned into a pushable sludge although I gave it a long time to soak. Overnight actually. worked at it and got some to move by increasing pressure (40psi I think). Then got some more beer and repeated. Eventually I got a fair amount into the fermentor and decided to stop, clean it out and try again with 4oz.

Repeated the process with 4 oz. This time when I went to fill with beer I forgot to attach the blow off and the beer just trickled in. Got the blow off assembled by by now I think I had a plug of damp hop pellets and even after putting 15 psi on the fermentor head it took about 20 minutes for the sight glass to actually fill with liquid. I let this rest an hour. And pushed. And nothing moved. Increased pressure and maybe a little moved. Vented the pressure, filled with beer, let it rest another hour. And pushed and, again almost nothing moved. But maybe some moved. So I basically repeated
1 close valve
2 pressurize sight glass
3 open valve
4 vent sight glass
about 10-20 times. First bunch of repeats did not seem like much was going on then I got one where there was liquid in the glass along with hop gung and after about 3 more cycles I was done.

Disassembled, cleaned, added 4 more ounces and repeated (except for the blow off mistake, fixed that and did fill get a quick liquid fill). Did wait an hour of pellet soaking for the first cycle but then just accepted I would need a bunch of cycles and immediately repeated the process. Took a long time but got it done.

So when I compare what I did to that video a few thoughts come to mind. Looks like Jay has about 2 oz of hops in a quart jar and I had 4oz in 25 oz sight glass. Also looks like Jay had a fermentor full of water. I had a fermentor full of beer. And sitting in the bottom of the fermentor I am guessing I had a substantial quantity of hops and yeast.

So when I went to add "beer" to the sight glass through the downcomer I probably added mostly hop/yeast trub along with a little beer. Which was not sufficient to turn my new pellets into a think pushable slurry.

I have some ideas about what to do next time but would appreciate any advice from current users.
 
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Eric
I am going to let others reply first. So the insight is coming from users other than myself. I am super happy to give you some insight and some assistance with your process straight away if you like. Totally up to you.

Cheers
Jay
 

eric19312

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Eric
I am going to let others reply first. So the insight is coming from users other than myself. I am super happy to give you some insight and some assistance with your process straight away if you like. Totally up to you.

Cheers
Jay
Thanks Jay - I’m not unhappy with the unit and am sure I’ll get it figured out. Learning curve is part of what I like about the hobby. Am eager to see what other users add but for sure your thoughts are welcome.
 

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Thanks Jay - I’m not unhappy with the unit and am sure I’ll get it figured out. Learning curve is part of what I like about the hobby. Am eager to see what other users add but for sure your thoughts are welcome.
I'll jump in.

Sounds like it is, as you suspected, too many hops in the brink. I've got the same 3" sight glass model and have never had any issues, but never tried more than 4 oz DH addition, at least at the same time. It also sounds like you might have gotten a trub plug in the downcomer that got really compacted by the high pressure in the fermenter.

I'm guessing you're wanting to get some biotransformation from the hops. If you could hold off a few days to get some of the yeast and most of the trub OUT before dry hopping I think you'd solve the issue. When I dry hop it's usually when fermentation is almost complete and the fermenter is unpressurized (or at least <5 psig). Then I do everything you do regarding attaching the brink and purging before tightening the TC and opening the butterfly, except for only using 4 oz or so DH at a time. I usually don't wait for more than 10 minutes or less to 'liquify' the hops. Then I set my CO2 regulator to ~2 psi higher than the fermenter pressure and slowly open the valve. 90-95% of the hop mush goes right into the fermenter, just like in Jay's video. Then I bleed of the pressure in the brink, fill with beer/wort from the fermenter, let it all mix together, and shoot it back into the fermenter. Rinse, repeat as necessary to get all you hop addition charge (or multiple charges) into the fermenter.

I'm surprised you've had issues, especially with a 2" TC port. I've got a 1.5" TC port on a Ss Brewtech Unitank and have never had that happen. I think you've accurately diagnosed the problem. Just make sure the dump port is cleared of trub/yeast debris before uploading your hops, and limit your hop charge to ~ 4 oz until you get the results you're looking for.
 

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I'll jump in.

Sounds like it is, as you suspected, too many hops in the brink. I've got the same 3" sight glass model and have never had any issues, but never tried more than 4 oz DH addition, at least at the same time. It also sounds like you might have gotten a trub plug in the downcomer that got really compacted by the high pressure in the fermenter.

I'm guessing you're wanting to get some biotransformation from the hops. If you could hold off a few days to get some of the yeast and most of the trub OUT before dry hopping I think you'd solve the issue. When I dry hop it's usually when fermentation is almost complete and the fermenter is unpressurized (or at least <5 psig). Then I do everything you do regarding attaching the brink and purging before tightening the TC and opening the butterfly, except for only using 4 oz or so DH at a time. I usually don't wait for more than 10 minutes or less to 'liquify' the hops. Then I set my CO2 regulator to ~2 psi higher than the fermenter pressure and slowly open the valve. 90-95% of the hop mush goes right into the fermenter, just like in Jay's video. Then I bleed of the pressure in the brink, fill with beer/wort from the fermenter, let it all mix together, and shoot it back into the fermenter. Rinse, repeat as necessary to get all you hop addition charge (or multiple charges) into the fermenter.

I'm surprised you've had issues, especially with a 2" TC port. I've got a 1.5" TC port on a Ss Brewtech Unitank and have never had that happen. I think you've accurately diagnosed the problem. Just make sure the dump port is cleared of trub/yeast debris before uploading your hops, and limit your hop charge to ~ 4 oz until you get the results you're looking for.
Same here...except I wait for the hops to liquify. I have had zero issues when following the above process. I DO dump the yeast/trub first. I DON'T add hops via the lid and then add more hops later via the YB.

I don't know why one would follow that process as there is no need to remove the lid when you have a YB. That sorta defeats one of the benefits of the YB. Yes, I have a CF10 and the other member has a CF15. Ignoring the introduction of O2 when he opens the lid issue, he may find that process easier. To each their own.....

I DO "stir" the hops with CO2 via the 2" port over the following couple of days after adding hops.
 
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eric19312

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Thanks @Brooothru and @CodeSection

Hops during fermentation ... biotransformation was a sort of, but was brewing with US-05 so not really expecting biotransformation, mainly seemed like a convenient point in time to get first pound of dry hops into the fermentor, likely anticipating dosing dry hops with the brink might take some time.

Opening the lid....I understand during active fermentation small doses of oxygen are not really able to hurt the beer or the hops as the yeast at full kick will rapidly metabolize any oxygen that does get in. The low oxygen brewing site has pretty interesting data on the power or yeast to rapidly deoxygenate water, I assume the principal is pretty applicable to fermenting beer too. Also sorry I don't open the lid, I put the hops in through the 4" TC port.

The 2" dump port....well the downcomer on the brink with the 2" TC connection is probably same pipe as the downcomer on the 1.5" model, just a different TC flange.

@CodeSection how long do you wait for the hops to liquify?
 

CodeSection

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Thanks @Brooothru and @CodeSection

Hops during fermentation ... biotransformation was a sort of, but was brewing with US-05 so not really expecting biotransformation, mainly seemed like a convenient point in time to get first pound of dry hops into the fermentor, likely anticipating dosing dry hops with the brink might take some time.

Opening the lid....I understand during active fermentation small doses of oxygen are not really able to hurt the beer or the hops as the yeast at full kick will rapidly metabolize any oxygen that does get in. The low oxygen brewing site has pretty interesting data on the power or yeast to rapidly deoxygenate water, I assume the principal is pretty applicable to fermenting beer too. Also sorry I don't open the lid, I put the hops in through the 4" TC port.

The 2" dump port....well the downcomer on the brink with the 2" TC connection is probably same pipe as the downcomer on the 1.5" model, just a different TC flange.

@CodeSection how long do you wait for the hops to liquify?
@Jaybird's video I believe shows roughly 45-50 minutes. I always kept them in the YB for roughly 75-90 minutes. Mainly, because I was doing other stuff and would come back later.

I guess the amount of hops used would influence the time it takes to liquify them as well....
 

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Same here...except I wait for the hops to liquify. I have had zero issues when following the above process. I DO dump the yeast/trub first. I DON'T add hops via the lid and then add more hops later via the YB.

I don't know why one would follow that process as there is no need to remove the lid when you have a YB. That sorta defeats one of the benefits of the YB. Yes, I have a CF10 and the other member has a CF15. Ignoring the introduction of O2 when he opens the lid issue, he may find that process easier. To each their own.....

I DO "stir" the hops with CO2 via the 2" port over the following couple of days after adding hops.
Good call on routing the yeast with a CO2 blast. Dump trub till you start seeing yeast. Roust with CO2, then inject the hops with the yeast brink. I'll have to use that technique next time I dry hop.

Brooo Brother
 

jekeane

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So I used my new 3" sight glass yeast brink to dry hop a hazy IPA this weekend. This was a lot of dry hops and maybe too much for first try. Did not go real well and I'm open to suggestions. Sorry for the long thread...

This was about 17.5 gallons of beer in a CF15 fermentor. The sight glass downcomer was attached to the butterfly valve which was attached directly to the dump port on the cone (no elbow or other hardware in between). On day 3 or 4 of fermentation when yeast was just starting to slow down I opened the fermentor top and added a pound of dry hop pellets. Got some explosive blow off with all those nucleation sites hitting all that actively fermenting beer but got the lid closed without issue and captured most of the mess through my blow off.

Once fermentation appeared done - day 7 - I switched the blow off for a pressure manifold, pressurized the head space to 5 psk and I used the brink to dump two full site glasses worth of yeast, That went really well. I even saved first 25 oz harvested in a sanitized mason jar, looked decent even if a little green. I didn't keep dumping until the cone was clear...

Then I loaded 8oz hop pellets. Should of gone back to this thread and seen where Jay suggested 4-6. 8 was way too much. I attached the sight glass to the valve loosely, purged with CO2, tightened it down, and then filled with beer. And had a hop brick in my site glass. Never turned into a pushable sludge although I gave it a long time to soak. Overnight actually. worked at it and got some to move by increasing pressure (40psi I think). Then got some more beer and repeated. Eventually I got a fair amount into the fermentor and decided to stop, clean it out and try again with 4oz.
cont...
I my experience these guys will never work well for heavy dry hopping. They just can't hold enough soaked and expanded pellets. 3oz is the most I have used without it being an hour long affair to get them in the conical. To use the harvester to inject standard IPA hop bills its an all day affair.

It works great for injecting purees, fining agents, etc but I wont use it for hops any longer. It does work better with cryo hops. and it is great for yeast harvests if thats something you do.
 

eric19312

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I my experience these guys will never work well for heavy dry hopping. They just can't hold enough soaked and expanded pellets. 3oz is the most I have used without it being an hour long affair to get them in the conical. To use the harvester to inject standard IPA hop bills its an all day affair.

It works great for injecting purees, fining agents, etc but I wont use it for hops any longer. It does work better with cryo hops. and it is great for yeast harvests if thats something you do.
appreciate the feedback. which size brink are you using?
 

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I my experience these guys will never work well for heavy dry hopping. They just can't hold enough soaked and expanded pellets. 3oz is the most I have used without it being an hour long affair to get them in the conical. To use the harvester to inject standard IPA hop bills its an all day affair.

It works great for injecting purees, fining agents, etc but I wont use it for hops any longer. It does work better with cryo hops. and it is great for yeast harvests if thats something you do.
I haven't experienced anything near on what you are describing. I guess it depends upon what size of YB you have, what size batch you are DH, and finally how much hops you are DH with. It is really no big deal letting it sit until the hops turn into mush. Lol, its not like I'm sitting there watching it as I have better things to do with my time while it liquifies. Something is wrong if it takes all day.....

I haven't tried @Brooothru's process of waiting only around 10 minutes before injecting the hops. Since I have a 3" YB as well, I will try his method to see how that works the next time I DH. Thanks for the tip @Brooothru!
 

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appreciate the feedback. which size brink are you using?
I have used the 3" and the smaller canning jar one. The canning jar one is a pretty big hazard to put under pressure imo. I had the jar shoot off the band a couple times and wont use it anymore.
 

NoviceBrewer420

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What is a yeast brink you ask? Here ya go. Its a multi purpose yeast harvesting and inoculating tool that you can also use to dry hop AND O2 evacuate your conical!


Here is a link to the actual brink online

1.5

Cheers
Jay
Bro I live in the 530!
 

Brooothru

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I have used the 3" and the smaller canning jar one. The canning jar one is a pretty big hazard to put under pressure imo. I had the jar shoot off the band a couple times and wont use it anymore.
Before I got the yeast brink I used (and still use unpressurized) the canning jar yeast harvester. I had a few email exchanges with Jay, and he indicated that the weak point was the lid seal band. Like you I was afraid of applying more than 1~2 psi on a glass jar.

I still use the yeast harvester on an unpressurized Chronical but never on a pressurized Unitank. Different tools with different applications. It works great for trub dumps and yeast harvests and is much lighter and easier to mount and remove from a fermenter. Just needs to be unpressurized.

Brooo Brother
 

eric19312

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Eric
I am going to let others reply first. So the insight is coming from users other than myself. I am super happy to give you some insight and some assistance with your process straight away if you like. Totally up to you.

Cheers
Jay
So Jay I'm still struggling. Down to 3oz dry hops in the 3" brink. Tried vertical and horizontal orientation. Thought I really had it last batch because I worked extra hard to make sure no yeast in the cone before starting to add hops. I've got some cryo hops ordered for current batch. Thinking that is one way to cut my total dry hop quantity down while I work this out.

Ready for more suggestions from any source.
 

eric19312

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OK so back to report some progress. Here is what I tried:

Took extra care to get rid of as much yeast as possible before starting to dry hop. Soft crashed to 55, let that sit for a couple days, then dumped a bit of trub, then harvested a quart of really clean looking yeast, then dumped another 4-5 quarts of yeast before I got to beer. Did this over 4 dumps spaced out by an hour or more to give the yeast in the cone a chance to settle down into the plumbing.

Swapped out the 3" TC gaskets that came with the brink for the hard plastic PTFE gasket thinking these would provide better oxygen seal. Bobby was out of the EDPM one or I'd have gone with those: 3'' TC PTFE Gasket (Heat Resistant to 400F)

Hopped with cryo hops. Did two batches of 3oz each.

Flooded the glass and let it sit for an hour. Put my spunding valve on top of the fermentor at 5 PSI and pressurized the sight glass to 10 PSI. Opened the valve. No joy. Block of hops just sat there. Increased pressure and eventually blew a bit of hops up into the fermentor and was back to my push, flood, push cycle.

Then I remembered the new gasket and how similar it was to the teflon gasket I use to make the racking arm easy to rotate. Loosened the TC clamp that holds the "top" of the sight glass (top being the part with the ports) and gently rotated the sight glass 180 degrees. Did that again in 10 minutes. The rotating allowed the hop much to mix with the beer more readily and sure enough when I went to push this much back into the fermentor I got maybe 75% up in one try. I then repeated a quick flooding and mixing step and pushed it up again. Shot right up into fermentor. Closed the valve and repeated process. Only this time waited 30 min after initial flooding and started the rotation steps.

Only issue I had was when I went to purge the sight glass on the second batch, I still had some wet hop material in the glass and with my initial blast I painted myself and my ceiling with beer hop mush. Don't do that. Purging with just dry hops is fine but once stuff in there is wet you need to purge with the downcomer covered. Next time I'll try covering it with my 2" TC to ball lock gas post before initial purge.

Sorry no videos yet--too much going on to also try to take pictures. Next batch I'll try to get a camera assistant to help out.
 

Nate R

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OK so back to report some progress. Here is what I tried:

Took extra care to get rid of as much yeast as possible before starting to dry hop. Soft crashed to 55, let that sit for a couple days, then dumped a bit of trub, then harvested a quart of really clean looking yeast, then dumped another 4-5 quarts of yeast before I got to beer. Did this over 4 dumps spaced out by an hour or more to give the yeast in the cone a chance to settle down into the plumbing.

Swapped out the 3" TC gaskets that came with the brink for the hard plastic PTFE gasket thinking these would provide better oxygen seal. Bobby was out of the EDPM one or I'd have gone with those: 3'' TC PTFE Gasket (Heat Resistant to 400F)

Hopped with cryo hops. Did two batches of 3oz each.

Flooded the glass and let it sit for an hour. Put my spunding valve on top of the fermentor at 5 PSI and pressurized the sight glass to 10 PSI. Opened the valve. No joy. Block of hops just sat there. Increased pressure and eventually blew a bit of hops up into the fermentor and was back to my push, flood, push cycle.

Then I remembered the new gasket and how similar it was to the teflon gasket I use to make the racking arm easy to rotate. Loosened the TC clamp that holds the "top" of the sight glass (top being the part with the ports) and gently rotated the sight glass 180 degrees. Did that again in 10 minutes. The rotating allowed the hop much to mix with the beer more readily and sure enough when I went to push this much back into the fermentor I got maybe 75% up in one try. I then repeated a quick flooding and mixing step and pushed it up again. Shot right up into fermentor. Closed the valve and repeated process. Only this time waited 30 min after initial flooding and started the rotation steps.

Only issue I had was when I went to purge the sight glass on the second batch, I still had some wet hop material in the glass and with my initial blast I painted myself and my ceiling with beer hop mush. Don't do that. Purging with just dry hops is fine but once stuff in there is wet you need to purge with the downcomer covered. Next time I'll try covering it with my 2" TC to ball lock gas post before initial purge.

Sorry no videos yet--too much going on to also try to take pictures. Next batch I'll try to get a camera assistant to help out.
Eric- cf15, right? I appreciate your reporting back. I also have nothing of value to add as I do not have brink. But before I even finished your post, I was thinking... Please film this! 15+ gallons focused on the bottom cone... If that TC clamp is loosened too much, we could have a heck of a good fail video on our hands! Of course, I do not wish for this at all! Although- as I write this- I wonder.... is part of the problem the extra weight /pressure/ force caused by more liquid in your 15 gallons than say 5? Have we had similar issues from a cf5 user?
 
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Just to add some insight. This product was originally designed for yeast and not hops. We put the downcomer tube fairly close to the bottom of the jar and the sight glass. We have been playing around with customers and some are cutting the downcomer tube about 1/4" and having better luck with the transfers. I do have some customers that are actually flooding the jars and with the tube cut a tad able to push some of the hops into the fermenter immediately then part of the battle is already won. Heep in mind those hops are going to drop when you open the valve again. Anyway always working on how to make the system better for the overall experience. Everybody is going to have a little different process but I like the results so far from what is being reported. Keep it up you guys!

Cheers
Jay
 

eric19312

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Just to add some insight. This product was originally designed for yeast and not hops. We put the downcomer tube fairly close to the bottom of the jar and the sight glass. We have been playing around with customers and some are cutting the downcomer tube about 1/4" and having better luck with the transfers. I do have some customers that are actually flooding the jars and with the tube cut a tad able to push some of the hops into the fermenter immediately then part of the battle is already won. Heep in mind those hops are going to drop when you open the valve again. Anyway always working on how to make the system better for the overall experience. Everybody is going to have a little different process but I like the results so far from what is being reported. Keep it up you guys!

Cheers
Jay
Thanks Jay - makes a lot of sense. I think a big part of what worked for me was the cryo hops. I re-read the YCH literature on the hops and saw the following statement "Due to fine particle size, there is low risk of clogging heat exchangers." I think its likely that the finer particles are less likely to clog trying to get into the downcomer.
 
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