New digital solid state power relay for boil regulation

[drewmedic23]

If thats the case then how is something like that with that cost superior to something like this?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/140553987088?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Because you get more buttons and more numbers

I have looked into the same SSVR and the only issue I see is that the power isn't linear (because of the sine waveform). I am just adding this controller onto my setup and adding it onto the SSR already in place.

So I guess one advantage is you don't have to add in another SSR, you can just use the one you already have

 

[doug293cz]

I have looked into the same SSVR and the only issue I see is that the power isn't linear (because of the sine waveform). I am just adding this controller onto my setup and adding it onto the SSR already in place.

So I guess one advantage is you don't have to add in another SSR, you can just use the one you already have

Can you explain how that would work? I thought the phase triggering circuitry was built into the brick, so the potentiometer won't do anything for a regular SSR. A diagram of how you would connect things together would be great. I ask because I might what to use something like this in preference to PID manual control when I go electric (I'll have a single vessel, recirculating e-BIAB eventually.)

Brew on

 

[Minbari]

Can you explain how that would work? I thought the phase triggering circuitry was built into the brick, so the potentiometer won't do anything for a regular SSR. A diagram of how you would connect things together would be great. I ask because I might what to use something like this in preference to PID manual control when I go electric (I'll have a single vessel, recirculating e-BIAB eventually.)

Brew on

That is right, a regular SSR is either on or off. A pot wouldn't do anything more than turn it on and off within the hysteresis of the input circuit

 

[drewmedic23]

Can you explain how that would work? I thought the phase triggering circuitry was built into the brick, so the potentiometer won't do anything for a regular SSR. A diagram of how you would connect things together would be great. I ask because I might what to use something like this in preference to PID manual control when I go electric (I'll have a single vessel, recirculating e-BIAB eventually.)

Brew on

From what I understood after reading the instruction manual, this unit is esentially a manual mode PID on steroids. This unit cycles the PID several times a second (burst mode) rather than the traditional 2 second (or greater) cycles. This allows you to use the same SSR you would use with a traditional PID rather than getting a SSVR. A pot uses a SSVR to regulate power output but the output isn't linear and a digital display looks cooler

I am planning on wiring it by having a two way switch with two NO and two NC contacts so that the SSR is only connected to either the PID or the digital boiler. Ill draw up a diagram and attach pictures when I get it set up.

I currently use a single vessel, recirculating e-BIAB and Ill throw some of those pictures in too.
I just placed the order today so stay tuned

 

[doug293cz]

From what I understood after reading the instruction manual, this unit is esentially a manual mode PID on steroids. This unit cycles the PID several times a second (burst mode) rather than the traditional 2 second (or greater) cycles. This allows you to use the same SSR you would use with a traditional PID rather than getting a SSVR. A pot uses a SSVR to regulate power output but the output isn't linear and a digital display looks cooler

I am planning on wiring it by having a two way switch with two NO and two NC contacts so that the SSR is only connected to either the PID or the digital boiler. Ill draw up a diagram and attach pictures when I get it set up.

I currently use a single vessel, recirculating e-BIAB and Ill throw some of those pictures in too.
I just placed the order today so stay tuned

Ok, I got it now. Part of my confusion was I thought the DSPR1 was simply an SSVR with a built in digital display. I have a better understanding of what the DSPR1 actually is.

Brew on

 

[augiedoggy]

Because you get more buttons and more numbers

I have looked into the same SSVR and the only issue I see is that the power isn't linear (because of the sine waveform). I am just adding this controller onto my setup and adding it onto the SSR already in place.

So I guess one advantage is you don't have to add in another SSR, you can just use the one you already have

Then why not just go with a $20 pid with even more functionality and the same manual control feature??

And you get more buttons and lights to impress others! You can find them for higher prices too it thats important to your bragging routine... (I am kidding)

Heres another option I found... Its available with the faceplate for the display panel too for less from other sellers.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-220V-100...153?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item259565ce91

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-220V-100...513?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27ec21b4e1

 

[drewmedic23]

I saw that one on eBay. I'm sure it would work very well but there is the extra board to mount to the heat sink and some extra wiring involved. If I had a traditional 3 tier system, this would work well since I would be powering different heating elements. With my e-BIAB, I would have to either add another outlet plug or get another contactor to switch between the two controllers. Hope that makes sense

 

[augiedoggy]

I saw that one on eBay. I'm sure it would work very well but there is the extra board to mount to the heat sink and some extra wiring involved. If I had a traditional 3 tier system, this would work well since I would be powering different heating elements. With my e-BIAB, I would have to either add another outlet plug or get another contactor to switch between the two controllers. Hope that makes sense

I'm not sure if your talking about the one I linked but if you are I believe you are mistaken, theres no exrta board or wiring involved... theres just two hot power wires going in (main power cord) and two going out to the element... and the whole thing is already mounted to a heat sink with holes in it to mount on your control panel... You cant get any simpler than that?
(Well I guess a knob vs up/down buttons would be simpler)

 

[Brumateur]

Heres another option I found... Its available with the faceplate for the display panel too for less from other sellers.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-220V-100...153?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item259565ce91

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-220V-100...513?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27ec21b4e1

Be cautious. This regulator vorks correctly only on 50Hz .It useless in US or Canada since we have 60Hz mains.

 

[doug293cz]

I'm not sure if your talking about the one I linked but if you are I believe you are mistaken, theres no exrta board or wiring involved... theres just two hot power wires going in (main power cord) and two going out to the element... and the whole thing is already mounted to a heat sink with holes in it to mount on your control panel... You cant get any simpler than that?
(Well I guess a knob vs up/down buttons would be simpler)

Drewmedic's proposal switches the SSR control signals from two different controllers (a PID and the DSPR1) to a single SSR. No switching of power wires is needed. The device you are talking about would require switching of the power wires from two different SSR's to the heating element. That will require a DPDT contactor with guaranteed "break before make".

Brew on

 

[Spartan1979]

This is interesting. I'm torn between a full blown system using Raspberry Pi (a friend has developed the software for it) or just doing what I have been doing with propane, but convert to electric. Basically a kettle with a knob to adjust the power and my Gott cooler. Although I probably would add a separate HLT.

My biggest motivation for electric brewing is so everything is in one place and I'm not going up and down the stairs all day between the garage and the basement (where everything is stored). A simple system would do that. OTOH, better temperature control over my mash and being able to walk away while the kettle is heating does hold some attraction.

 

[drewmedic23]

double post, sorry

 

[drewmedic23]

Drewmedic's proposal switches the SSR control signals from two different controllers (a PID and the DSPR1) to a single SSR. No switching of power wires is needed. The device you are talking about would require switching of the power wires from two different SSR's to the heating element. That will require a DPDT contactor with guaranteed "break before make".

Brew on

Exactly. Thank you for explaining my ramble lol

 

[augiedoggy]

Drewmedic's proposal switches the SSR control signals from two different controllers (a PID and the DSPR1) to a single SSR. No switching of power wires is needed. The device you are talking about would require switching of the power wires from two different SSR's to the heating element. That will require a DPDT contactor with guaranteed "break before make".

Brew on

AHH I see now.....But again, why not just replace that pid with a $20 mypin td4 PID with manual boil control built in? thats what I use and they work very well and are very easy to adjust. no extra holes to cut or wires to run...

I use 3 of these..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/231206228037?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

[augiedoggy]

Be cautious. This regulator vorks correctly only on 50Hz .It useless in US or Canada since we have 60Hz mains.

I actually was wondering about this... funny that there is a us seller selling them out of the US...

 

[doug293cz]

AHH I see now.....But again, why not just replace that pid with a $20 mypin td4 PID with manual boil control built in? thats what I use and they work very well and are very easy to adjust. no extra holes to cut or wires to run...

I use 3 of these..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/231206228037?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

It's a personal preference thing. Some people like the simplicity of adjusting the boil with a simple knob turn vs. pushing buttons to adjust a PID in manual mode (less chance of fat fingering a setting.) It also offers a more even power level at the sub-second level (higher frequency pulses) vs. the PID manual mode. Not sure if this makes any difference in practice.

Brew on

 

[augiedoggy]

It's a personal preference thing. Some people like the simplicity of adjusting the boil with a simple knob turn vs. pushing buttons to adjust a PID in manual mode (less chance of fat fingering a setting.) It also offers a more even power level at the sub-second level (higher frequency pulses) vs. the PID manual mode. Not sure if this makes any difference in practice.

Brew on

I can understand that.

 

[biertourist]

I agree with you on this, I'd rather have a Pid controller for the two diff modes and temp stands. But for somebody who just wants a simple Bk control panel this is a good alternative.

IMO, for a boil kettle: having the two different modes and temp output is a nice-to-have feature, but dial control is essential. -I don't want things overly complicated; I don't mind if there are additional, possibly complicated features as long as the user interface GETS OUT OF MY WAY. Typical PiD button-push, switch mode user interface just "Gets in the way" of quickly trying to turn down the boil.

So, if Auber would release a full featured PID that also had dial control, that would be my ideal, but I'd prefer to have the dial run on a remote cord over low voltage so I can mount it in my stand right next to the boil kettle (or even on the boil kettle itself).

-For mega breweries I understand doing everything from a central control panel, but for my home brewery I'm really starting to like the idea of having the control where I am / where the vessel is.


Adam

 

[VictorBrew]

One other quick question, the manual says to connect terminal 9&10 of the DSPR1 to AC power so would it be best to land my incoming power on term strips then connect to the DSPR1 terminals from one leg of the 240 or connect one terminal to one leg and the other terminal to the other leg. Thanks again for the help

All - New to the forums and interested in better understanding a few things on this thread. I could not find if the above post was ever commented on or answered. Do you just run 1 leg of the 240 circuit through the SSR and the other leg is always hot to the heating element?

Rob

 

[augiedoggy]

All - New to the forums and interested in better understanding a few things on this thread. I could not find if the above post was ever commented on or answered. Do you just run 1 leg of the 240 circuit through the SSR and the other leg is always hot to the heating element?

Rob

YES
this is why people use a relay on a separate switch to kill the element completely when off.... it also comes in handy if your about to have a boil over... you can just switch the switch off and the relay cuts power to the element /ssr included.if you use a three way switch and two contractor/relays so they use it to prevent any possibility of have both elements on at once(this is what I did)..
I cant speak for other like the auber but the manual mode on my pid is simple and straight forward... I just push the manual mode button for 2 seconds to turn it on then enter the value I want... (between 65-70% works great for me) then im done... Some people are under the impression theres complicated programming and such involved.

 

[Butchhe]

I cant speak for other like the auber but the manual mode on my pid is simple and straight forward... I just push the manual mode button for 2 seconds to turn it on then enter the value I want... (between 65-70% works great for me) then im done... Some people are under the impression theres complicated programming and such involved.

Which model PID are you running?

 

[augiedoggy]

Which model PID are you running?

This one... three of them actually.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/231206228037?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

[Butchhe]

This one... three of them actually.

Is that a Mypin timer as well?

 

[augiedoggy]

Is that a Mypin timer as well?

no its a setos... its only a dual timer though... they have a quad one I want for $30 on amazon

 

[Butchhe]

That's not a bad price.

 

[drewmedic23]

This one... three of them actually.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/231206228037?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Nice setup. Thats interesting how you went for the pot to regulate flow rather than a ball valve. I may take your idea on this one

 

[smort]

Can the DSPR1 be used to limit current to an oversized element so the circuit breaker trip doesn't trip?

 

[Minbari]

Can the DSPR1 be used to limit current to an oversized element so the circuit breaker trip doesn't trip?

Not likely. It uses PWM, being varied by the knob. So although the avg current will be less the lower the knob is turned, it wont limit current on the pulses.

 

[drewmedic23]

Not likely. It uses PWM, being varied by the knob. So although the avg current will be less the lower the knob is turned, it wont limit current on the pulses.

Agree. You would be better off with am actual voltage regulator and just make sure you don't go past a certain point

 

[smort]

Agree. You would be better off with am actual voltage regulator and just make sure you don't go past a certain point

Like this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Fu...684?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c40db8d5c ?