New curved single blade ULWD elements from BrewBuilt

[gavinr]

Anyone used these yet? Looks like they use the standard 1.5 TC ferrule fitting. Huge benefit - they will not interfere with the trub cone after whirlpool, like the ripple ones do. Slightly lower wattage (4500w) for my 15 gal kettle, but I run my current 5.5K element at 55% during the boil.

 

[Bobby_M]

I have never had a problem getting a tight trub pile with my ripple element. I do have a bunch of slingblade elements and have been messing with them. The depth of the kettle ferrule has to be quite specific. It's not impossible but it definitely requires some care to get right or the element won't clear the port entrance into the kettle. There's also a smaller range of pot diameters that will work with the intended kettle wall "follow".

I don't quite understand the anemic wattages chosen. Sure you turn the boil down like everyone else but I've got 30 amps of capacity and I would like to use every bit of it to ramp up.

 

[gavinr]

I have never had a problem getting a tight trub pile with my ripple element. I do have a bunch of slingblade elements and have been messing with them. The depth of the kettle ferrule has to be quite specific. It's not impossible but it definitely requires some care to get right or the element won't clear the port entrance into the kettle. There's also a smaller range of pot diameters that will work with the intended kettle wall "follow".

I don't quite understand the anemic wattages chosen. Sure you turn the boil down like everyone else but I've got 30 amps of capacity and I would like to use every bit of it to ramp up.

Bobby, do these slingblade elements work with your 1.5" weldless TC ferrules?

I have never had a problem getting a tight trub pile with my ripple element. I do have a bunch of slingblade elements and have been messing with them. The depth of the kettle ferrule has to be quite specific. It's not impossible but it definitely requires some care to get right or the element won't clear the port entrance into the kettle. There's also a smaller range of pot diameters that will work with the intended kettle wall "follow".

I don't quite understand the anemic wattages chosen. Sure you turn the boil down like everyone else but I've got 30 amps of capacity and I would like to use every bit of it to ramp up.

Bobby, do these slingblade elements work with your brewhardware 1.5" weldless TC ferrules?

 

[Baglorious]

I'd be interested to know the 1.5" weldless TC ferrule answer as well. Have a kettle without an element (and was thinking about grabbing one), and these piqued my curiosity initially.

There is something nice about having the element "not smack dab in the middle." Biggest benefit seems to be the ability to drop an immersion chiller in, or simply be able to stir a bit more conveniently. On the other hand... I also have ZERO problem whirlpooling effectively with the standard element, and think that advantage is not really as claimed.

I do think overall, the shape is a great idea. Begs the question "why not?" (I guess the only real drawback is that they are kettle size specific... which probably doesn't matter to people who wouldn't expect to swap or change kettles.)

The lower wattage is sure disappointing, though. That's probably the primary reason I'll stick with a perfectly effective 5500w element for significantly less cost.

 

[passedpawn]

Here's a link:

https://www.brewhardware.com/category_s/1902.htm

For those using converted kegs, looks like the 4500W element is the right fit. Unfortunately, I have 2" tri clover fittings on mine, and I don't think these elements would work if I added a reducer. Too bad, I like the idea of it.

4500W vs 5500W? Meh, not a big deal at all for me.

 

[Hwk-I-St8]

I was looking at these the other day. I was thinking, for those who want to use a basket in an eBIAB type rig, you might be able to save a some dead space by having the basket go all way to the bottom of the kettle, tight up against the wall opposite the element, and right up to the element on that side.

I'm always trying to figure out a way to mitigate the 2+ G portion of wort that's outside the basket in a recirculating eBIAB rig (which is why I'm brewing with induction now).

 

[Bobby_M]

Bobby, do these slingblade elements work with your 1.5" weldless TC ferrules?

Bobby, do these slingblade elements work with your brewhardware 1.5" weldless TC ferrules?

Yes they do but NOT the XL length ones. Clarify... my weldless TC bulkheads made for thinwall pots work.

 

[augiedoggy]

th

I'd be interested to know the 1.5" weldless TC ferrule answer as well. Have a kettle without an element (and was thinking about grabbing one), and these piqued my curiosity initially.

There is something nice about having the element "not smack dab in the middle." Biggest benefit seems to be the ability to drop an immersion chiller in, or simply be able to stir a bit more conveniently. On the other hand... I also have ZERO problem whirlpooling effectively with the standard element, and think that advantage is not really as claimed.

I do think overall, the shape is a great idea. Begs the question "why not?" (I guess the only real drawback is that they are kettle size specific... which probably doesn't matter to people who wouldn't expect to swap or change kettles.)

The lower wattage is sure disappointing, though. That's probably the primary reason I'll stick with a perfectly effective 5500w element for significantly less cost.

By the same token the other drawback is having the heat source along one edge of the kettle. theres also something nice about having your heat source (and boil) smack dab in the center of the kettle as you would with a ripple or a burner for that matter.. These would be like putting one edge of you kettle on a gas burner.. I would think the resulting boil would work fine but be a bit awkward.

I'm surprised no one seems to care what the actual watt density of these elements are? thats one of the most important factors to me... The lower the better, much easier to clean, less chance of any scorching and lower TMI..

 

[Bobby_M]

The density is pretty low given the lower wattages to begin with but each element size is going to be different. The 22 gallon one is 5kW and about 127 square inches for 39 WPI. That's quite low. The 5500 ripple is closer to 60 but I haven't scorched a batch besides the one time I moved all the wort from below the bag INTO the bag by running it full bore by accident. I don't care how ULWD you are but if you fire it with just a trace amount of wort sticking to the element but otherwise in air, you're in trouble.

 

[passedpawn]

The density is pretty low given the lower wattages to begin with but each element size is going to be different. The 22 gallon one is 5kW and about 127 square inches for 39 WPI. That's quite low. The 5500 ripple is closer to 60 but I haven't scorched a batch besides the one time I moved all the wort from below the bag INTO the bag by running it full bore by accident. I don't care how ULWD you are but if you fire it with just a trace amount of wort sticking to the element but otherwise in air, you're in trouble.

I did burn through a hop spider once on my 5500W element. It was fully submerged (10g batch), but it was FULL of hops and sitting on the element. Burned a hole right through it. I've done a lot of batches that way and it only happened once, so maybe it was a fluke.

Anyway, that's one of the reasons I like those sling blade elements (I just noticed they are on your site Bobby). If I could find 2" TC versions of it, I'd switch immediately.

 

[augiedoggy]

I have the ability to turn the max element output up and down easily in brucontrol so Ive been playing with this setting a bit with the 4 5500w ripples in the BK at the pub and I have found there is in fact a direct correlation to the build up on the element surface and how easily its removed depending on the watt density. If I set the max output duty cycle to 80% for example the elements wipe clean with a wet cloth fairly easily but if I fire them at 100% power while bringing up to a boil and more extensive cip followed by a scrubby is sometimes needed. for the same reasons I found the 6000w straight 21" long element from brewmation I use in my rims doesnt get any such buildup when set to 70% max power output but does show a brown film and even signs of scorching if I attempt to run it at a higher setting with some grains or adjuncts such as wheat which I did when I first installed it.

I dont dry fire my elements but I agree many will show scorching is they are dryfired with a buildup on the element surface. I'm more concerned with how the watt density effects them with proper use. The picture above for example wont (or is less likely to) occur below a certain watt density threshold. but it was more likely to occur using the straight 5500w lwd elements than the ULWD elements for the same reasons above.

 

[passedpawn]

I have the ability to turn the max element output up and down easily in brucontrol so Ive been playing with this setting a bit with the 4 5500w ripples in the BK at the pub and I have found there is in fact a direct correlation to the build up on the element surface and how easily its removed depending on the watt density. If I set the max output duty cycle to 80% for example the elements wipe clean with a wet cloth fairly easily but if I fire them at 100% power while bringing up to a boil and more extensive cip followed by a scrubby is sometimes needed. for the same reasons I found the 6000w straight 21" long element from brewmation I use in my rims doesnt get any such buildup when set to 70% max power output but does show a brown film and even signs of scorching if I attempt to run it at a higher setting with some grains or adjuncts such as wheat which I did when I first installed it.

I dont dry fire my elements but I agree many will show scorching is they are dryfired with a buildup on the element surface. I'm more concerned with how the watt density effects them with proper use. The picture above for example wont (or is less likely to) occur below a certain watt density threshold. but it was more likely to occur using the straight 5500w lwd elements than the ULWD elements for the same reasons above.

I should have mentioned, that burned bag happened with a 5500W ULWD ripple element. Hard to say when during the boil it burned, but I'd guess it was when all the hops (11 oz!) were in there and it was smothering the element. At that point, duty cycle probably about 70%.

 

[Dustin_J]

th

By the same token the other drawback is having the heat source along one edge of the kettle. theres also something nice about having your heat source (and boil) smack dab in the center of the kettle as you would with a ripple or a burner for that matter.. These would be like putting one edge of you kettle on a gas burner.. I would think the resulting boil would work fine but be a bit awkward.

I'm surprised no one seems to care what the actual watt density of these elements are? thats one of the most important factors to me... The lower the better, much easier to clean, less chance of any scorching and lower TMI..

Just as a counterpoint, it might actually be helpful for those of us trying to minimize thermal stress/TBI in our boils as off-center elements may encourage wort movement with minimal "applied" wattage. Martin discusses this in the 2019 Zymurgy article, and actually directly mentions the idea of moving a kettle slightly off center when using a burner. Similarly, Kunze notes off-center heating (along with appropriately shaped vessels) as a way to provide wort circulation.

 

[Dland]

What would likely happen if one used one of the larger Amp/circumference ones and bent it slightly so they would fit in smaller Kettle?

 

[mongoose33]

I have the ability to turn the max element output up and down easily in brucontrol so Ive been playing with this setting a bit with the 4 5500w ripples in the BK at the pub and I have found there is in fact a direct correlation to the build up on the element surface and how easily its removed depending on the watt density. If I set the max output duty cycle to 80% for example the elements wipe clean with a wet cloth fairly easily but if I fire them at 100% power while bringing up to a boil and more extensive cip followed by a scrubby is sometimes needed. for the same reasons I found the 6000w straight 21" long element from brewmation I use in my rims doesnt get any such buildup when set to 70% max power output but does show a brown film and even signs of scorching if I attempt to run it at a higher setting with some grains or adjuncts such as wheat which I did when I first installed it.

I dont dry fire my elements but I agree many will show scorching is they are dryfired with a buildup on the element surface. I'm more concerned with how the watt density effects them with proper use. The picture above for example wont (or is less likely to) occur below a certain watt density threshold. but it was more likely to occur using the straight 5500w lwd elements than the ULWD elements for the same reasons above.

Maybe this isn't the same issue, but I use a 5500-watt element in my kettles. Of course, there's a coating on them when done. To clean, I put enough water in to cover the ports, add the appropriate amount of PBW, and heat to 160 degrees. The elements come out as shiny as the day I got them from Bobby.

I don't have to do anything to clean them, they just....clean themselves.

Am I missing something here?

Before cleaning:

After adding PBW and raising temp to 160 (using the element to do that):

 

[augiedoggy]

Maybe this isn't the same issue, but I use a 5500-watt element in my kettles. Of course, there's a coating on them when done. To clean, I put enough water in to cover the ports, add the appropriate amount of PBW, and heat to 160 degrees. The elements come out as shiny as the day I got them from Bobby.

I don't have to do anything to clean them, they just....clean themselves.

Am I missing something here?

Before cleaning:


View attachment 668204

After adding PBW and raising temp to 160 (using the element to do that):

View attachment 668203

no, you got it right, except some grainbills seem to cook to the element surface a little more than others and the pbw alone in our case didnt always clean them up so easily causing us to have to break out the blue scrubbie
Lowering the max output resulted in less mess to begin with and the other advantage is the (TBI aspect) thermal transfer stress would be reduced is more like you would get from steam which ive read can effect things like the color of the beer. From your picture above there doesnt appear to have that light brown cooked layer that sometimes occurs

 

[augiedoggy]

Just as a counterpoint, it might actually be helpful for those of us trying to minimize thermal stress/TBI in our boils as off-center elements may encourage wort movement with minimal "applied" wattage. Martin discusses this in the 2019 Zymurgy article, and actually directly mentions the idea of moving a kettle slightly off center when using a burner. Similarly, Kunze notes off-center heating (along with appropriately shaped vessels) as a way to provide wort circulation.

You make a good point about rolling motion and I did think about that too but again watt density of the surface is going to have the greatest effect on TBI unless your reducing it with some sort of pwm or duty cycle control at all times (like possible with an ezboil or brucontrol or even a potentiometer setup)
In any case it sounds like the highers WD is on par with a standard 5500w ripple

 

[augiedoggy]

What would likely happen if one used one of the larger Amp/circumference ones and bent it slightly so they would fit in smaller Kettle?

It should be fine even the ripples can be gently bent.

 

[Dustin_J]

You make a good point about rolling motion and I did think about that too but again watt density of the surface is going to have the greatest effect on TBI unless your reducing it with some sort of pwm or duty cycle control at all times (like possible with an ezboil or brucontrol or even a potentiometer setup)
In any case it sounds like the highers WD is on par with a standard 5500w ripple

Right, of course. Ezboil user here, and would highly recommend it, but your point is well taken.

 

[Venger]

Just got one for my new electric HLT build. I wanted to get the HERMS coil as low as possible for flexibility and the slingblade seems to fit perfectly in my Spike 20 gallon tri-clamp kettle. Hoping to fire it up this weekend for a test run. Will report back if there are any problems but I'm very happy right now as it seems to be exactly what I wanted.

 

[gavinr]

Reporting back after purchasing the 4.5kW SlingBlade (to use with my 15 Gal Megapot with BrewHardware's 5.5k ripple kit with weldless bulkhead purchased in 2017).

This element did NOT fit. The published specs are 16.75" length measured from the tip of the heating element to the T.C. connection and 7.3" radius measured from the middle of the T.C. connection to the outermost edge of the element's curve (I'm assuming they meant from middle of the TC centerline to the outermost edge)

The length measurement is correct, but the radius I measured is 8.2", over 10% wider than published.
The inside diameter of my kettle is 15.75 (this is over 16). The length is correct at 16.75, but my kettle measures 16.25 from the outside of the TC ferrule to the opposite kettle wall.

I'm not sure if the wider radius is a QC issue, but I'm also troubled by the fact that the two outer element segments are touching near the middle of the arc. In any case, I'm returning this.

See enclosed pictures. Your mileage may vary based on a different 15G pot, but I think my Megapot is fairly standard.

 

[augiedoggy]

The good thing for most is that they bend fairly easily.

 

[gavinr]

The good thing for most is that they bend fairly easily.

Thanks augiedoggy! I tried bending it and got it to fit perfectly. I was also able to separate the touching segments.

 

[tinoespinosa69]

Good morning brewmaster. So, is it then a good option to install this sling blade in a BK or HLT kettle? What about the Wattage mentioned? ( 3750 W for 10 gal kettle). I have Spike 10 gal kettles and will add 1.5" TC connections using the weldless bulkhead from Bobby.

 

[Paul_Aris]

The worst part I see is if you do a basket style biab the feet would probably contact that element. Unless you had Utahbiodiesel make you a custome one with the feet more toward the center on one side.