New AG brewer seeking advice

[aprichman]

The recirculation doesn't affect the sparge efficiency. It does affect the saccharification (conversion) rate during the mash, so will help get to near 100% conversion faster. As stated previously, near 100% conversion, or an effective mash out (amylase denatured completely) is necessary for cold water batch sparge to equal hot water batch sparge. Homogenizing the mash prior to run-off only requires a few minutes of aggressive stirring; no need to continuously agitate the mash. There's not enough differences in the grain bills to affect the mash efficiency, and any variables after the sparge step are irrelevant to mash efficiency.

Hot sparge does have the benefit of allowing you to get to boil faster.

Brew on

Why would it matter if the enzymes are active or not? Can you explain this more clearly?

Also do you have a source that recirculation doesn't effect sparge efficency?

 

[doug293cz]

I have a domed fb in my igloo cooler MT. Seems to work great...

There's nothing wrong with using an FB with batch sparging, it just doesn't provide a lauter efficiency advantage. If someone who is batch sparging already has a braid in the MLT, and is trying to decide how to best spend their money for process improvement, an FB is should not be high on the list (unless they have a burning desire to start fly sparging.)

Brew on

 

[doug293cz]

Why would it matter if the enzymes are active or not? Can you explain this more clearly?

Also do you have a source that recirculation doesn't effect sparge efficency?

I tried to explain that in my earlier post here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showth...y recirculation or stirring. Brew on :mug:

 

[griffi]

Wow, a lot of these responses are over my head in terms of technical brewing concepts. At this pount, i think I'm just trying to figure out whether to buy or build an e-HLT, get a multi-tiered solution or pump, or trying biab or some other compact solution....

 

[cjones]

lol..... just brew and enjoy - you cant go wrong

 

[doug293cz]

lol..... just brew and enjoy - you cant go wrong

Good advice. You can make pretty good beer without understanding how everything works in detail.

Brew on

 

[Gavin C]

Is there any way to do a step mash with a BIAB set up?

Excluding HERMS and RIMS there are 3 ways to do this. Each with it's own set of pros and cons

1. Step mashing via direct heating the mash tun. The mash must be stirred constantly to ensure even heating, avoiding hotspots and scorching while ensuring target temperatures are not over-shot. Very doable but more work involved because of the stirring.
   
   Step Mash Setup
   
   
   Example of recent step mash where a combination of methods was used
   
   
2. Step mashing via infusions of near boiling water. Very easy to do, less work involved as much less stirring is required and the mash-tun can remain insulated throughout if you use gas as I do as a heat source.
   
   Pulling a decoction
   
   
   Boiling a decoction
   
   
3. Step mashing via decoctions. A portion of the mash is removed, heated +/- a rest at a given temperature to allow conversion and then heated to a boil and boiled for a desired period of time. This boiled mash portion (the decoction) is then returned to the main mash raising the mash temperature to the next desired rest temperature.

Combinations of these methods can also be done in any given mash.

the essential technique in BIAB is mashing in bag that must be hoisted out of the kettle, right?

Absolutely correct. That is the real difference. In BIAB the grains are removed from the wort. In more traditional brewing the wort is removed from the grains. Again plusses and minuses to each method.

 

[JLeuck64]

You have lots of choices! I also started out thinking I would be satisfied just brewing 5 gal batches from here to eternity. So I set myself up a gravity system like the one shown with the red cooler. It worked REALLY well and I had no complaints about it.

Then as time went by my buddy and I started brewing double batches... back to back. Those went well but made for a long brew day! I kept an eye out for steep discounts on brew kettles and pulled the trigger on a 15gal SpikeBrewing kettle recently. Also upgraded the mash tun cooler and the burner stand about the same time.

I still brew with the old 10 gal kettle, and to be honest the Edlemetal burner works OK, but was disappointed with the needle valve. My old two burner Camp Chef stove is a favorite, and I really considered buying their 60 BTU burner before pulling the trigger on the Edlemetal... but the Camp Chef burner just wasn't quite tall enough to work with my current set up. Plus, I got a killer deal on the Edlemetal, 20% off!

So the bottom line from my experience is this: If I had it to do ALL over again, even though I experience power outages in my neck of the woods, I would think long and hard about a pump system. I splurged on the HLT with a sight glass, but could have saved $$$ there and applied it to a pump.

 

[RM-MN]

Excluding HERMS and RIMS there are 3 ways to do this. Each with it's own set of pros and cons

1. Step mashing via direct heating the mash tun. The mash must be stirred constantly to ensure even heating, avoiding hotspots and scorching while ensuring target temperatures are not over-shot. Very doable but more work involved because of the stirring.
   
   Step Mash Setup
   View attachment 313178
   
   Example of recent step mash where a combination of methods was used
   View attachment 313177
   
2. Step mashing via infusions of near boiling water. Very easy to do, less work involved as much less stirring is required and the mash-tun can remain insulated throughout if you use gas as I do as a heat source.
   
   Pulling a decoction
   View attachment 313175
   
   Boiling a decoction
   View attachment 313176
   
3. Step mashing via decoctions. A portion of the mash is removed, heated +/- a rest at a given temperature to allow conversion and then heated to a boil and boiled for a desired period of time. This boiled mash portion (the decoction) is then returned to the main mash raising the mash temperature to the next desired rest temperature.

Combinations of these methods can also be done in any given mash.



Absolutely correct. That is the real difference. In BIAB the grains are removed from the wort. In more traditional brewing the wort is removed from the grains. Again plusses and minuses to each method.

Not quite. For either system you need to separate the grains from the wort. You could BIAB in a kettle with a spigot and drain that into another kettle but for simplicity and less equipment most of us just mash in the kettle we intend to boil in and then remove the grain bag to do the separation.

If you do a conventional mash tun, you still have to remove the grains when the mash is done but you don't have them confined in a bag to make it easy, you have to scoop them out, then rinse out the tun. You could use a bag in the mash tun (some people do) and then drain the tun as though you were using a braid or false bottom but then you have the extra piece of equipment to store too.

 

[specharka]

Wow, a lot of these responses are over my head in terms of technical brewing concepts. At this pount, i think I'm just trying to figure out whether to buy or build an e-HLT, get a multi-tiered solution or pump, or trying biab or some other compact solution....

If you're looking to differentiate your process and develop more complex mashing methods, go with the multi-tiered solution.

If you're looking to make better beer, go with the stir plate.

Neglecting the importance of a quality yeast pitch is the #1 most common and worst mistake that homebrewers can make.

In the world of homebrewing, yeast dominates.

 

[oujens]

mine has always been to cut time down on brew day and increase efficiency - because of family and other responsibilities.

Mine would be a really great burner - I would go with the edelmeatle from norther brewer with the leg ext. - the way the shroud is positioned and air flow makes this a very efficient for propane and cuts considerable amount of time for heating up water and getting up to boil.

+1 on a good burner. I recently upgraded to a KAB4 and it gets me to strike and boil temps much faster than my cheap turkey fryer burner from Academy. The added bonus is I was able to convert the KAB4 to natural gas since I already had a gas line installed on my patio. Saves me considerable time on brew day and I don't have to worry about propane bottles.

 

[griffi]

I splurged on the HLT with a sight glass, but could have saved $$$ there and applied it to a pump.

So I have already made most of the process improvements mentioned by you awesome folks. I too advantage of some credit I had at NB and their 20% off and ordered the steelhead pump. Thanks for all of your suggestions!