Thanks Illin8 I appreciate the response.
Doing the wiring on this bad boy tonight/Tuesday. Where does the ground to the HLT element connect? Or did you only use a 2 wire cord?
Thanks,
Scott
1/2" tubing is key, I agree. the fewer restrictions or hard corners the better it will flow. For those of you think that any bigger hose might be better stick with the 1/2". bigger hose although will flow more down hill or on a straight can cause problems when pumping uphill due to the added head weight
Can you please explain?
I recall a column of fresh water a foot tall at .432 psi or .434 psi per /ft if it's sea water. Same pressure be it a 60" diameter pipe or 1/16" pipe same pressure per / ft.
3 wires, grounded to the steel brew stand. EVERYTHING should be grounded
psi = per square inch.
There are more square inches in a 3/4" tubing of a given length than a 1/2" tubing of the same length.
area of a circle is pi*r^2
Using this formula we get 9.42 square inches per foot of 1/2" tubing.
While a 3/4" tube has 21 square inches per foot.
So, using your figure of .432 psi/foot of fresh water it will take
.432*9.42 foot pounds to push fresh water up 1' of 1/2" tubing: or 4.1 ft-lb
and
.432*21 foot pounds to push fresh water up 1' of 3/4" tubing: 9.1 ft.lb
Do you have any pics of the inside of your HLT? I need to build this.
To The Pol,
Simply amazing system.
I'd been debating and planning different setups...Gas vs Electric...cooler vs pot...and I'd nearly resigned myself to having to buy a complete system as I just didn't have the wherewithal to pull off rigging LP without blowing myself up and the mysteries of electricity end with "I plugged it in, now what?"
Then I find this tread and think "I CAN DO THAT!"
Now I don't know if I can...but I sure know I will try.
So to you KUDOS!
Now on to my questions:
(And please excuse some of them if they seem dumb...but this electricity thing must trip a reason breaker in my noggin)
1) I found the picture of the HLT lid in your gallery and from what I saw, I didn't see the thermowell...has it been relocated or was it just not in for the picture? I'm assuming (if you didn't move it) it runs to somewhere close around mid-coil?
The thermowell is a SS tube that the A419 temp probe slides down into. It fits through a hole in the center of the lid, in the center of the HLT and coil.
2) On my lunch break I ran out to HD and grabbed me a 1" threaded PVC coupler and 2000w element and honestly was expecting a bigger thing ("That's what she said"...there ruined it for everyone). Did I get the wrong gadget or are they really THAT small? The thing is only like 7" tall! Also none of them said they were water safe...but the whole section was for Water Heater elements...Item link...should I be concerned?
NO, they ARE that small, which is nice, because then you do not need to maintain a large volume in the HLT to keep the element submerged. Now, realize that you cannot control that element with an A419, you will need a PID and SSR since it is pushing 17A, the A419's max is 16A.
3) Plugging this stuff in...can I run all three things (pump, HE, stirrer) from the same outlet? Like off a power strip? [at least until I get an e-BK & controller like yours...which is a further future project]
How did you do it before you got the box?
Well, if it is a 20A circuit, yes. 17A for the element, <1A for the stirrer and 1.8A for the pump. Now, that is REALLY pushing a 20A circuit and you will want to make sure your power cord can handle 20A. Now this is over the 80% load rule, but that is for continuous loads and yours will not be continuous as the element will cycle on and off. But, you are really pushing it.
4) On your MLT, you say you got the false bottom from Northern Brewer...assuming the 12" one ...it says it has a 3/8" hose barb on it...did you change to 1/2" or keep it as is?
Kept it as is... all my other plumbing is 1/2" though. I cannot fathom a time that the flow restriction there would be an issue.
All I can think of right now...but I'm sure I'll come up with more as I get building.
And if I didn't say it before...this is seriously killer :rockin:
Thanks for letting me know about the 2000w element...didn't realize it was 20a (package doesn't say anything about amps...but hey HD sold it for < $10 same price as the 1500w btw) ... I'll grab a 1500w one and save this one for a future heat stick or brew kettle.
-Jay
Finally getting some more time to look into this.
I don't understand how you keep the stoppers in place for the thermometers. Are they just shoved in the holes and they hold up?
My Pol Clone eHLT is built and heating up as I type.
It looks to be taking about 90+ minutes to heat 9g of water to 170 but my facet runs cold this time of year...think I started at 60.
Anyway, I've obviously checked it for leaks [had it sit filled for a day] then plugged it in and didn't blow the fuse or GFI...
Anything else I should look for to make sure there is no shorts?
Also the stirring motor only has two wires and they aren't labeled or colored...but I found that if you switch the wires...the fan moves the other way
So I want to make sure...fan should blow air DOWN onto the motor to cool it off or AWAY from the motor to blow away the hot air?
I currently have it blowing down.
-jay
Yes, notice that they are inserted from the INside, so the water pressure in the MLT and HLT actually presses the stopper into the hole.
In three years, never had them leak.
Thanks
Another question: What is 50785k94 part for? I got it from the parts list and it's in the same listing as the any-which-way but I don't see the relationship between them.
Thanks again
Is the flat o-ring that comes with the element not sufficient?You can use a silicone O-ring to seal the element (outside the cooler) ...
This is overcome by reinforcing the inner liner as stated previously with what amounts to a plastic washer epoxied around the hole.
Is the flat o-ring that comes with the element not sufficient?
It is sufficient, but it seems everyones results vary.
On the outside of the cooler or inside?
The reinforcement can be on either surface... it is basically to alleviate the issues with the inner liner flexing after heating. It is VERY flimsy, you just need to build it up so that it provides a nice mating surface.
Pol- I know you recently sold this, but what can you say about loc-line after several brews with it?
1)Any off flavors?
2)How did it retain its position with boiling liquids?
3)How was the flow rate with the 1/2" ID?
4)Would you recommend any of the nozzles, or do they get clogged?
Thanks,
Steve
Thanks for answering my Q's Pol. McMaster Carr due to deliver stir assembly pieces.
No problem sir... no problem. Soon I will have intimate knowlege of RIMS, so I can help you on your next build.
New Belgium uses a Steinecker Merlin boiler. Just saw it in action last week when I took my Dutch friends up for a tour. Would be interesting to see someone scale that down to homebrew size.
I just wanted to again say OH MY GOD this system rocks.
Amazing Pol amazing....bless you and you brews.
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