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never take individual gravity readings again

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I'm with the OP.

I have done this when making starters on my stirplate. When I step up a small starter to a much larger one (i.e., 4L), I get it stirred up well and pour into my hydrometer jar, then cover the jar with foil so the hydro sticks out a hole. Just dumped one of these "satellites" yesterday.

In my experience, not only do the final gravitys match, but I think the rate of fermentation is almost exactly the same. To be honest, I don't watch it too closely, so it hasn't been a very scientific test, but I will make a point of watching it closely in the future. I won't refute the papers and references in this thread, but it is such a simple thing to do I'd recommend trying it yourself to see if some of that "wisdom" is actually myth. Many of the posters in this thread are big proponents of questioning some of the tribal knowledge passed down (HSA or secondaries anyone?); I'm surprised at their responses.
 
I brew 11 gallon batches and split the wort into two identical buckets. I place them right next to each other. It is not unusual for both batches to start ferment at the same time and bubble in the airlock at the same rate. I don't find it unusual at all that I get different readings from each one. Now the difference is usually just a couple points. But if I assumed that both were identical I would be wrong more often than not. My method for avoiding contamination is I spray star san and just remove the airlock and stick a straw through the hole and get a couple drops for the refractometer.
 
Shaking it up? Psh.

If you are extract brewing with top off water, forget about it... you run a great chance of getting different SG readings in different parts of the vessel (much less in different vessels).

Even if you are all grain, full boil... the chance of your shaking thoroughly distributing the yeast is VERY low.

As for infections... jst leave the beer alone. Take an OG reading. Take a FG after two-three weeks. Maybe take one more a couple days later (odds are that it matches).

I never understood why people take readings day after day. Why rush? Let the yeast clean up after themselves, evenif the fermentation is technically "done".
 
I never understood why people take readings day after day. Why rush? Let the yeast clean up after themselves, evenif the fermentation is technically "done".


Lager = watch what is going on, do a few different steps depending on your school of thought , then set it and forget it for a while

Ale = i agree with you completely.
 
I've been being for 3 years now, and haven't had an issue.
Though, if you dont want to open the lid, why not put a spigot half way up... Similar to a bottling bucket.
Unless your using glass carboys, then I got nothing.
 
No, but I imagine that your hydrometer is going to pick up a nice coating of yeast, foam, and other gunk that's going to make it very difficult to actually read.
 
No, but I imagine that your hydrometer is going to pick up a nice coating of yeast, foam, and other gunk that's going to make it very difficult to actually read.
Pretty much. Even in my separate hydrometer tube I have to do some 'clean up' to take a reading.
 
It said the shape does not matter. It said the volume (that would be the size of the wort) had a "Significant Difference". The answer to your question is in the reference material you have provided.

I'll just echo what most everyone else has said. They are not going to ferment at the same rate, with the volume being a key reason. They may however finish at the same FG.

Just a thought... IF you can show that they both finish at the same FG, you could use that to determine when your beer is done fermenting, without taking two or more samples to see what the SG is in the fermenter. But, I'd need to see some serious statistical data that shows the FG will be the same in both containers, regardless of the type of beer, before I rely on that method.
 
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