NEIPA Check

[Rob2010SS]

Hey guys. Wondering if you can take a look at the attached PDF for me and double check the details I have in the red boxes. This is my first AG batch that I'm doing on Saturday and want to make sure my numbers and processes are sound for mashing and sparging.

I appreciate the help.
Thanks.


View attachment NEIPA Mod.pdf

 

[TravelingLight]

Hey guys. Wondering if you can take a look at the attached PDF for me and double check the details I have in the red boxes. This is my first AG batch that I'm doing on Saturday and want to make sure my numbers and processes are sound for mashing and sparging.

I appreciate the help.
Thanks.

I do a mash thickness of 1.25 qt/lb. But that's just me and what I use on my system. Your system is different from mine.

Looks like you're overheating your strike water about 23 degrees. I think that's overkill. But again, this is your system, not mine. I overheat around 7-10 degrees, let it preheat the tun a few minutes, then dump my grain in and stir like hell until I get down to my mash temp.

I don't do a mash out. I heat my sparge water to 170ish and dump it in. Hell, it doesn't even have to be 170 exactly. Sometimes it's lower around 160-165 and it's still fine.

I think everything else looks fine. Brew on!

 

[IslandLizard]

First AG!

What program did you use to calculate your recipe/brewday steps? I like that output format!
What is your mash system?
You used 70% mash efficiency, that's low. 75% is more the norm for LHBS mills.
Do you mill your own grain?

Good to use "distilled" water. Where do you get it? How about RO from Walmart @ $.39/gallon?
If using prepackaged water, make 100% sure they didn't add chlorine to it. <arghh>

I miss your minerals additions, there should be a substantial amount of CaCl2 in it, along with CaSO4, some MgSO4. Also some acid to bring your mash pH to around 5.35. Similar for your sparge water.

I would move your flameout hop addition to a 180F whirlpool for 15', letting it cool down naturally from there, it will probably end up around 175-170F that way. Double check your IBU's, to get what you have in mind, but I'm sure it's fine to do that without making adjustments.

Your 1st dry hop is likely too late. For these styles you should dry hop when the beer has attenuated with about 20-30% left to go. That could be as soon as 36 hours after pitching! Or as late as 3-4 days. I would take a sample after 36 hours (suck/siphon some out (~6-8 oz) with a skinny 5/16" OD hose through the grommet hole if using a bucket) and measure. That dry hop point IS very important, timing wise.

 

[Rob2010SS]

I do a mash thickness of 1.25 qt/lb. But that's just me and what I use on my system. Your system is different from mine.

Looks like you're overheating your strike water about 23 degrees. I think that's overkill. But again, this is your system, not mine. I overheat around 7-10 degrees, let it preheat the tun a few minutes, then dump my grain in and stir like hell until I get down to my mash temp.

I don't do a mash out. I heat my sparge water to 170ish and dump it in. Hell, it doesn't even have to be 170 exactly. Sometimes it's lower around 160-165 and it's still fine.

I think everything else looks fine. Brew on!

So, in answer to your questions/points....

1. I just guessed on the mash thickness. I have seen multiple people choose different numbers and I'm just not sure how to determine what mash thickness is appropriate. Can you use the same 1.25 qts/lb for any recipe, or does it change with the recipe?

2. I'm heating my strike water to 175 because I'm using a beverage cooler as a MLT and I'm not preheating it. The 175 is accounting for the cooler absorbing some of that heat. I'm hoping that once I add the strike water to the MLT, it will drop towards 165 which is where I want it for dough in. If it doesn't get to 165 right away, I plan to let it cool to 165 and then dough in. The excess temp was to allow the cooler to steal some of the heat.

3. In regards to the mash out, I just heard that it was a good practice to get into so I figured I'd do it and just get in the habit.

Does my #2 make sense or am I overthinking it?

Thank you very much for the input. I appreciate it.

 

[Rob2010SS]

First AG!

What program did you use to calculate your recipe/brewday steps? I like that output format!
What is your mash system?
You used 70% mash efficiency, that's low. 75% is more the norm for LHBS mills.
Do you mill your own grain?

Good to use "distilled" water. Where do you get it? How about RO from Walmart @ $.39/gallon?
If using prepackaged water, make 100% sure they didn't add chlorine to it. <arghh>

I miss your minerals additions, there should be a substantial amount of CaCl2 in it, along with CaSO4, some MgSO4. Also some acid to bring your mash pH to around 5.35. Similar for your sparge water.

I would move your flameout hop addition to a 180F whirlpool for 15', letting it cool down naturally from there, it will probably end up around 175-170F that way. Double check your IBU's, to get what you have in mind, but I'm sure it's fine to do that without making adjustments.

Your 1st dry hop is likely too late. For these styles you should dry hop when the beer has attenuated with about 20-30% left to go. That could be as soon as 36 hours after pitching! Or as late as 3-4 days. I would take a sample after 36 hours (suck/siphon some out (~6-8 oz) with a skinny 5/16" OD hose through the grommet hole if using a bucket) and measure. That dry hop point IS very important, timing wise.

In answer to your questions....

1. Haha, I appreciate that. It's just a manual excel spreadsheet I put together to help me get through my first AG. I just wanted to make sure all my steps were covered so that in the middle of the brew, I don't forget anything.

2. My mash system is the fermenters favorites coolers you get from the NB All Grain Starter Kit. I used 70% eff because this is my first one and I've heard of people getting really low efficiencies, so I went a bit lower. And no, I don't mill my own grain. Was going to have the HBS do that. If my efficiency comes out higher, is that bad? Will it ruin the beer?
I know I'll have a higher OG but is that a bad thing for this style?

3. The distilled water is because that's my next best option compared to my hard as he** well water and really softened tap water. I just get it from the Jewel Osco by me. It's like $.80/gal., not cheap but I'm ok with spending that.

4. In regards to minerals additions, not doing those yet. I'll eventually get into the water chemistry but not quite yet. I did 3 extract brews, felt comfortable going to all grain, so I'll do a couple of these and then take it a step further.

5. As far as the whirlpool and the dry hop additions, I copied them exactly as how they are in the recipe here https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost.php?p=7701386&postcount=1418
A lot of people seemed to really like this recipe and said it turned out good. But you think I should move stuff around? I'm open to ideas. My wife loves this style so I'll probably always have one in the pipeline so I can play around with timing of things a bit.

Thanks to you as well for the input. Hopefully someone can answer my bolded question up above about the higher efficiency!

Thanks again.

 

[IslandLizard]

In answer to your questions....

1. Haha, I appreciate that. It's just a manual excel spreadsheet I put together to help me get through my first AG. I just wanted to make sure all my steps were covered so that in the middle of the brew, I don't forget anything.

2. My mash system is the fermenters favorites coolers you get from the NB All Grain Starter Kit. I used 70% eff because this is my first one and I've heard of people getting really low efficiencies, so I went a bit lower. And no, I don't mill my own grain. Was going to have the HBS do that. If my efficiency comes out higher, is that bad? Will it ruin the beer?
I know I'll have a higher OG but is that a bad thing for this style?

3. The distilled water is because that's my next best option compared to my hard as he** well water and really softened tap water. I just get it from the Jewel Osco by me. It's like $.80/gal., not cheap but I'm ok with spending that.

4. In regards to minerals additions, not doing those yet. I'll eventually get into the water chemistry but not quite yet. I did 3 extract brews, felt comfortable going to all grain, so I'll do a couple of these and then take it a step further.

5. As far as the whirlpool and the dry hop additions, I copied them exactly as how they are in the recipe here https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost.php?p=7701386&postcount=1418
A lot of people seemed to really like this recipe and said it turned out good. But you think I should move stuff around? I'm open to ideas. My wife loves this style so I'll probably always have one in the pipeline so I can play around with timing of things a bit.

Thanks to you as well for the input. Hopefully someone can answer my bolded question up above about the higher efficiency!

Thanks again.

1. Nice sheet, I'm sure you will add a few things.

2. Those 10 gallon round coolers with the false bottom? Yup, they should work fine. Do a test by filling it with 2 gallons of plain water and drain it as if you were draining your mash (no grain this time). Try to measure the dead space, how much water stays behind once you lose siphon. That's an important number.

If your efficiency comes out higher, you may end up with a higher gravity wort at your pre-boil volume, or more volume at the predicted pre-boil gravity. You can leave it as is, at higher gravity, making a bit stronger beer. Or add some water (or 2nd/3rd runnings to it), to reduce it to your intended gravity. Or boil a little shorter (say 45', and adjust your bittering charge accordingly).

It's much easier to deal with (unexpected) higher efficiency than coming up short.

If you really overshoot your efficiency by a lot, you could make a small batch from the extra wort in a small fermentor. Or if you have space in your kettle and fermentor just brew a somewhat bigger batch.
Leave at least a gallon of headspace in your fermentor, so you can add the dry hops. If there's enough left over, fill a smaller fermentor with the leftovers.

Keep in mind, due to the large amounts of dry hops in these beers, you will lose quite some beer when racking to your keg. I'd count on leaving close to a gallon of trubby beer behind in the fermentor. I build a strainer that goes around the racking cane, so I can suck more clear (well, in this case, cloudy) beer out, leaving all the hop pulp behind.

3. Good call on not using your hard well or softened (high sodium) water!
Some supermarkets (and Walmart) sell RO water from a machine, just bring a few large containers to fill. It's usually around $0.40 a gallon in my area. 80 cents is kinda pushing it, but alas.

Again make 100% sure no chlorine or chloramines were added as preservatives/sanitizers. When in doubt, you can always add a crushed 1/4 Campden Tablet (or a pinch of "K-meta") per 5 gallons and stir, done! Chlorine will kill your beer.

4. Water composition is very important in AG brewing, this is not dissolving extract! You definitely need to add some minerals, and a little acid, or it won't come out right. The recipe you linked to offers a good starting point for those.

Use a water calculator, like Mash Made Easy to predict your mash pH. It's the best one out there, and really easy to understand. Aim for a mash pH of 5.35.

Here are the minerals (brewing salts) you'll need:

• CaCl2 = Calcium Chloride
• CaSO4 = Calcium Sulfate (Gypsum)
• MgSO4 = Magnesium Sulfate (= Epsom Salt, ~$1 for a pound carton in the drug or dollar store). This is used very sparingly.
• Some Lactic acid (usually at 88%) or Phosphoric acid (typically at 10%)

You can get those at your LHBS.

5. You surely can add those hops at flame out. If you do so, decide whether you are going to chill the wort down right away to say 180F or leave it at ~200. And for how long.
Those decisions are all up to you, and each will make a difference in the resulting beer.

6. Did you make a good size yeast starter?

7. How are you going to aerate/oxygenate this?

 

[Rob2010SS]

For a yeast starter, I know saying this could get me burned at the stake by some people (kidding), but I wasn't going to do one....
From everything I've read, I should be able to get away without a yeast starter for the lower OG beers. My first brew was 1.065 and I didn't use a starter and it went just fine. Again, that's something I'll eventually get to when I start doing bigger beers, but for this one, wasn't going to do a starter.

As far as aerating it, I was just going to shake the crap out of it once in fermenter.

 

[Morrey]

Rob,

You're getting premium advice from HBT members who know what makes for a good NEIPA. Like IL says, since you are using a Conan strain, you may want to plan on your first dry hop addition (biotransformation) into the fermenter on somewhere between day 2 1/2 and 3. In most cases, day 4 is likely to be too late. The flip side of this discussion is that you say you may do this pitch w/o doing a starter. While most brewers will highly suggest doing a starter, not doing one may shift your first dry hop later. You may want to take a look at an online yeast calculator to discover what it takes to get a good yeast cell count to pitch. (You are not being burned at the stake...lol) FWIW I use BrewUnited but there are a few others which are helpful.

Pay close attention to your Chloride and Sulfate additions as these can really make your beer special. Personally I use 150 ppm Cl to 75 ppm SO4 in my beers since this is helping enhance the mouthfeel you'll get to make the beer seem "juicy". Braufessor shows this ratio in his post you quoted from thread 1418.

Personally, I expect that you may find you end up with lower rather than higher efficiency percentages at first. It takes many brew days to adjust your grind, water chemistry and overall brewing process to watch efficiency stabilize upwards. If you are a bit off of 70% you should be ok.

Galaxy/Mosaic/Citra in combination is an excellent choice. If you follow your process steps carefully, you'll have an awesome beer to enjoy.

 

[Rob2010SS]

Thanks Morrey. So if I go the route of adding minerals, I have a couple of additional questions...

1. Can those minerals be added to distilled water or does it HAVE to be RO water to add those chemicals?

2. At what point do you add the chemicals to the water? Before the dough in? After the mash is complete but before the boil?

Thanks.

 

[Morrey]

Thanks Morrey. So if I go the route of adding minerals, I have a couple of additional questions...

1. Can those minerals be added to distilled water or does it HAVE to be RO water to add those chemicals?

2. At what point do you add the chemicals to the water? Before the dough in? After the mash is complete but before the boil?

Thanks.

Rob, RO water is generally considered a neutral platform, but I have never used distilled water so I hesitate to say something I am not sure about. Other brewers I have asked feel Distilled water is basically interchangeable with RO water, so with that consensus, you should be fine with either.

I do BIAB brewing and rinse (sparge) with 1/2G of non-adjusted RO water when I hoist the grain bag. I add all of my water chemistry to adjust the ph and the brewing salts all at one time in my strike water prior to dough in. Some brewers adjust their sparge water separately but I usually do all of my adjustments in the strike water.

 

[Rob2010SS]

Ok. So I'll look at adding in those water additions to my strike water. I won't worry about adjusting the sparge water unless someone says that's a bad idea

 

[IslandLizard]

Thanks Morrey. So if I go the route of adding minerals, I have a couple of additional questions...

1. Can those minerals be added to distilled water or does it HAVE to be RO water to add those chemicals?

2. At what point do you add the chemicals to the water? Before the dough in? After the mash is complete but before the boil?

Thanks.

Ok. So I'll look at adding in those water additions to my strike water. I won't worry about adjusting the sparge water unless someone says that's a bad idea

@Morrey is right, RO and distilled water are 100% interchangeable. Either is (nearly) devoid of minerals.

You add your minerals and acid to both your mash and sparge water, before you heat them. Stir to dissolve.

That water calculator will help you figure out how much to add. Input your grain bill into their respective categories. It will calculate your acid deficit, and how much acid to add to get to your target pH (say, 5.35).

150ppm Cl- and 75ppm SO4-- is a good start for a NEIPA, as the originator of the recipe already stated. Use those numbers and his mineral addition tables, with weight amounts measured in (partial) teaspoons.

6a. No starter???

At minimum you should make a vitality starter, shaken not stirred. Do it for 4 hours while you're brewing and things are cooling.

For such "shaken" starter use a gallon jug (no smaller) add your yeast and no more than 1-1.5 quart of 1.040 wort, cap securely and shake well for 30-60 seconds until very, very foamy. Loosen cap. Repeat every 20-30 minutes or so. Let some fresh air in each time before shaking. Pitch the whole lot.

One thing to remember, the wort coming from your mash tun is loaded with bacteria, lactobacillus mainly. Unless it's boiled, it will get sour within a day.

If you don't have any (spare) DME on hand, you can use some of the wort from your mash tun to prepare your vitality starter. But you need to boil it first, for 5 minutes, in a pot on the stove to make it sanitary. Cover and let cool to room temps. You can speed that up by sticking in a sink or tub with cold water. Then pour into the gallon jug and add the yeast. If you use a WYeast smack pack, smack 3-4 hours before opening or adding to your starter wort. It gives them a head start.

7. To aerate your NEIPA wort, you can use a (large) whisk. Good sanitation is paramount when handling cooled wort, beer, and yeast.

Or clamp that little white "spray cone," that came with your mash tun, to your racking hose, the end that's inside your fermentor, when filling it. That's is what that thingy is made for, to aerate your wort when racking, not to aerate your sparge water, which is a no-no.

8. What are you fermenting in?
Any temp control?

9. How are you sparging?

 

[IslandLizard]

I do BIAB brewing and rinse (sparge) with 1/2G of non-adjusted RO water when I hoist the grain bag. I add all of my water chemistry to adjust the ph and the brewing salts all at one time in my strike water prior to dough in. Some brewers adjust their sparge water separately but I usually do all of my adjustments in the strike water.

That's the correct strategy when doing a (near) full volume mash, with only a small "sparge" volume.

When your sparge volume becomes significant, minerals and acid should be added to both strike and sparge waters, for several reasons.

Ok. So I'll look at adding in those water additions to my strike water. I won't worry about adjusting the sparge water unless someone says that's a bad idea

You're not doing a full volume mash like @Morrey is.
Although there are exceptions, minerals are usually best proportionally divided (to the same ppm) over both strike and sparge waters. You'd add the correct amount of acid to each (different amounts) per your water calculator.

This thread has turned into a crash course in AG brewing, not just a mere check on brewing a NEIPA.

Make notes, do your research where things are fuzzy, keep your head cool, and you'll brew a successful NEIPA.

 

[Rob2010SS]

@Morrey is right, RO and distilled water are 100% interchangeable. Either is (nearly) devoid of minerals.

You add your minerals and acid to both your mash and sparge water, before you heat them. Stir to dissolve.

That water calculator will help you figure out how much to add. Input your grain bill into their respective categories. It will calculate your acid deficit, and how much acid to add to get to your target pH (say, 5.35).

150ppm Cl- and 75ppm SO4-- is a good start for a NEIPA, as the originator of the recipe already stated. Use those numbers and his mineral addition tables, with weight amounts measured in (partial) teaspoons.

6a. No starter???

At minimum you should make a vitality starter, shaken not stirred. Do it for 4 hours while you're brewing and things are cooling.

For such "shaken" starter use a gallon jug (no smaller) add your yeast and no more than 1-1.5 quart of 1.040 wort, cap securely and shake well for 30-60 seconds until very, very foamy. Loosen cap. Repeat every 20-30 minutes or so. Let some fresh air in each time before shaking. Pitch the whole lot.

One thing to remember, the wort coming from your mash tun is loaded with bacteria, lactobacillus mainly. Unless it's boiled, it will get sour within a day.

If you don't have any (spare) DME on hand, you can use some of the wort from your mash tun to prepare your vitality starter. But you need to boil it first, for 5 minutes, in a pot on the stove to make it sanitary. Cover and let cool to room temps. You can speed that up by sticking in a sink or tub with cold water. Then pour into the gallon jug and add the yeast. If you use a WYeast smack pack, smack 3-4 hours before opening or adding to your starter wort. It gives them a head start.

7. To aerate your NEIPA wort, you can use a (large) whisk. Good sanitation is paramount when handling cooled wort, beer, and yeast.

Or clamp that little white "spray cone," that came with your mash tun, to your racking hose, the end that's inside your fermentor, when filling it. That's is what that thingy is made for, to aerate your wort when racking, not to aerate your sparge water, which is a no-no.

8. What are you fermenting in?
Any temp control?

9. How are you sparging?

No kidding, it sure has! I appreciate all the time and info IL.

7. So that little white cone is NOT meant to be use to distribute the sparge water to avoid tunneling through the mash bed? That's bad to use with sparge water?

8. Fermenting in a glass carboy in my kegerator. Going to hook up the Inkbird Temp Controller to it to maintain temp.

9. Sparging is (or was, depending on the response to 7 above) going to be done using that little white cone to do a fly sparge.

Thanks again.

 

[IslandLizard]

No kidding, it sure has! I appreciate all the time and info IL.

7. So that little white cone is NOT meant to be use to distribute the sparge water to avoid tunneling through the mash bed? That's bad to use with sparge water?

8. Fermenting in a glass carboy in my kegerator. Going to hook up the Inkbird Temp Controller to it to maintain temp.

9. Sparging is (or was, depending on the response to 7 above) going to be done using that little white cone to do a fly sparge.

Thanks again.

YVW!

7. Yup, it's a wort aerator! They work quite well for that, actually, hanging down, mid air inside your fermentor.

8. I would never shake a glass carboy again after reading this thread. I use plastic buckets now, they are virtually unbreakable, come with a handle, and are easy to clean.

9. Aerating mash/sparge water is bad.

Instead, lay something like a large, shallow aluminum pie shell plate (one of those "throw away" ones) on top of your mash. Poke a bunch of 1/8" holes in the bottom. Lay your sparge hose on the plate, curled up, in a circular shape. That plate will disperse the water. You may even want to poke some holes in the sides of that plate. Or make your own disperser from aluminum foil or so. Some people drill many small holes in the hose instead, plug the end and lay it on top of the mash, coiled. There are many ways to disperse the water without aerating the heck out of it.

Now fly sparging can bring a whole set of other surprises to your first AG brew day. Do yourself a favor, and perform a batch sparge for the time being, until you get a good handle on the whole process. Batch sparging is simple and way faster than a fly sparge, and because of that, you don't have to do a mash out either.

 

[Morrey]

This thread has turned into a crash course in AG brewing, not just a mere check on brewing a NEIPA.

Lordy, John Palmer would be proud to have written this good advice!

Rob....IslandLizard has been instrumental in sharing great information with you just as he has done with me for quite some time. If you read back over this thread, you'll slowly begin to see the big picture as he explains it.

One of the interesting aspects of brewing is the infinite number of ways that folks approach making beer. It seems that water, grains, yeast and hops should be pretty simple to stir up in a pot and make some beer. BUT, there are countless ways and process subtleties to make beer. It will seem intimidating at times and you'll likely feel frustrated I say from my own experience. Try searching HBT for topics you want to study up on by looking over old threads. Most of the topics that are basic (and even quite advanced) have generally been discussed so you can look over old threads leisurely. When you are actively participating in a thread, things may seem a bit cloudy when several posters are discussing varying ways of getting to the same goal. When something stumps you, reach out for help.

You seem like you'll be a great brewer and enjoy the process. I enjoy making beer and drinking the beer I make. With that in mind, the entire process seems rewarding to me as I hope you'll feel the same way.

 

[Rob2010SS]

Alright, update on this one. Brewed this one this afternoon. Everything went really smoothly. Mash went well, ended up with pre boil gravity of 1.054 and post boil gravity of 1.066. I think OG ended up higher than target of 1.060 because my boil off rate was higher than what i planned for, for some reason. I ended up with less volume in the end than i planned. Also did fly sparge and mash out and it went smooth. Took a lot more 200*F water to get mash up to 170 than i thought it would, but that's not terrible.

The only other observation i noticed was that at dough in, temp measured 163*F, 151-152*F after the grain was all stirred in. So i put the lid on and let it sit the hour and after the hour when i checked temp to see where it was, it had gone up! It read about 158-160 at the end of the mash. Hopefully this doesn't screw me over too bad on the end product. I don't know if when i checked temp at dough in, i just happened to check a cooler spot or at the end i checked a warmer spot? Not sure how the hell that happened in a cooler mash tun. Note to self to check temp throughout the mash in the future.

Anyway, thanks for all the help everyone. I really appreciate it.

View attachment 1506828678186.jpg

 

[Morrey]

Alright, update on this one. Brewed this one this afternoon. Everything went really smoothly. Mash went well, ended up with pre boil gravity of 1.054 and post boil gravity of 1.066. I think OG ended up higher than target of 1.060 because my boil off rate was higher than what i planned for, for some reason. I ended up with less volume in the end than i planned. Also did fly sparge and mash out and it went smooth. Took a lot more 200*F water to get mash up to 170 than i thought it would, but that's not terrible.

The only other observation i noticed was that at dough in, temp measured 163*F, 151-152*F after the grain was all stirred in. So i put the lid on and let it sit the hour and after the hour when i checked temp to see where it was, it had gone up! It read about 158-160 at the end of the mash. Hopefully this doesn't screw me over too bad on the end product. I don't know if when i checked temp at dough in, i just happened to check a cooler spot or at the end i checked a warmer spot? Not sure how the hell that happened in a cooler mash tun. Note to self to check temp throughout the mash in the future.

Anyway, thanks for all the help everyone. I really appreciate it.

Great job! You got the beer in a carboy so all is good so far!! Color is very nice!!

Every time you brew you'll gain some experience and insight into the process. Even though your volume came up a bit short into fermenter, you'll have a good beer. Some folks add top off water to make up the level going into fermenter you planned for...some don't worry about it.

None the less....great job and please post back how it turns out.

 

[Rob2010SS]

Thanks Morrey. I'll let you know how it goes!

 

[Rob2010SS]

So the NEIPA came out awesome! Great color and aroma with hints of pineapple. Really happy with it.

The one thing i noticed though was that it cleared after being in the keg for 2 days. I can gently swirl the keg and get the haze back in but it settles again. What can i do in future brews so the haze doesn't settle?

 

[TravelingLight]

So the NEIPA came out awesome! Great color and aroma with hints of pineapple. Really happy with it.

The one thing i noticed though was that it cleared after being in the keg for 2 days. I can gently swirl the keg and get the haze back in but it settles again. What can i do in future brews so the haze doesn't settle?

Nicely done. I've had trouble with mine clearing up some in the keg as well. But 2 days?? Definitely not that quickly. I've been seeing some people have more perma-haze bumping the oats up to 20% or so. I can't speak to experience on that, but I'm brewing one this weekend with 20% flaked oats. So check back with me in a few weeks. In the past, mine have usually taken a few weeks to start to drop clear. Two days is super quick though.

 

[motosapiens]

I don't really lose any sleep if my beer is clear. seems to taste just fine. I *think* that putting the first dry hops in early enough is one of the contributors to the haze. Yeast variety is important too. The london esb yeast stays much hazier for longer (a few months in the bottle) compared to the irish ale yeast I tried.

every time i've made nepa, it had dropped down to 1.020 or so by 48 hours, so if you wait 4 days before adding the first dry hops, you will have missed the recommended (by many) window of yeast activity.

 

[Rob2010SS]

I dont think i missed the aggressive fermentation. I pitched yeast Saturday at 430pm and because of lack of aeration i didnt see ANY fermentation activity until 130am Monday. I pitched the first dry hop Monday at 7pm

 

[day_trippr]

The prototypical Heady Topper.



I wouldn't force haze upon an neipa...aside from cramming a metric crapton of post-boil hops on it

Cheers!

 

[Rob2010SS]

Not forcing it really. Just want to know what i can do differently on the next one so i dont have to swirl the keg around every couple of days. I have cans of Maplewood's Son Of Juice in my fridge for weeks and they never clear. I'm perfectly happy with the beer as a side note. It came out delicious!

View attachment 1508204194554.jpg

View attachment 1508204204151.jpg

 

[TravelingLight]

Not forcing it really. Just want to know what i can do differently on the next one so i dont have to swirl the keg around every couple of days. I have cans of Maplewood's Son Of Juice in my fridge for weeks and they never clear. I'm perfectly happy with the beer as a side note. It came out delicious!

That looks amazing. Well done indeed!