Need some kegging advice

[BradTheGeek]

I have been brewing for about a year now, and just found a sweet (and cheap) keg setup at a yard sale on Saturday (picking it up today). Here is what I know I have (full inventory will be available once I pick it up).

• Full Size freezer top fridge
• Four kegs (pinlock)
• Co2 tank (10 or 15 lb)
• Four taps already mounted
• Regulator
• Lines

It has not been used in a couple years, but the fridge did work the last it was used. It's been sitting in a grimy, but relatively sealed shed.
Here is what I know I need to do, but I am brand new to kegging so if I miss anything, please let me know.

• Clean fridge
• Clean kegs (lots of PBR is on order)
• Clean connections
• Clean or replace wet side lines
• Fill CO2 tank
• Pressure test kegs
• Replace seals on kegs
• Learn how to use system
• Make more beer to fill the kegs

Any pointers, tips, or reading materials (not already in the sticky thread) would be great.

Thanks!

 

[Takuie]

Sounds like you are all set. Only thing I would do differently is weigh the co2 tank and find out how much is in there, do all my leak testing with that first before going and filling a tank that may be 3/4 full already.
Learning you keg system can be overwhelming. I would get one keg at a time on line and all problems fixed before starting a second one. this website is by far the best I have found your balancing my system. Once you get first keg online and pouring perfectly, then it's more of a rinse and repeat to get others online. Also, don't forget to leak check EVERYTHING twice! Starsan is an excellent leak checker.

 

[NathPowe]

Yeah it sounds like you've got things under control man. Looks like you were debating between cleaning or replacing the beer lines. I would definitely just replace them. It will be worth it - no hassle and no wondering if they're properly cleaned. Also - I'd recommend going with 10ft of 3/16 beer line for each tap. It will give you nice pours in that standard 10-14 psi range.

Good luck. Sounds like you got a pretty sweet deal.

Cheers.

 

[ericbw]

Probably get new quick disconnects just to be sure. If you get them threaded, they are a little easier to take off and put back on.

 

[Ilan34]

• Clean fridge
• Clean kegs (lots of PBR is on order)

• 
  
  Not sure if you meant PBW or if you're just going to need to drink lots of cheap beer while cleaning.
  
  Either way, I approve!

 

[BradTheGeek]

Not sure if you meant PBW or if you're just going to need to drink lots of cheap beer while cleaning.

Either way, I approve!

I meant PBW.. but PBR could help too!

I picked up the fridge today. It has 3 taps, and one picnic tap inside. Not 4 taps. Otherwise as described. Needs cleaning then I will post pics (might be a couple days).

The guy told me that he dispensed at 6psi. I guess that means he has shorter lines?

I still have a lot to learn about this!

Is it possible once all is cleaned and leak checked to force carb some water and then play with dispensing pressures?

Then I know in advance of brewing/kegging my next batch.

 

[ericbw]

I meant PBW.. but PBR could help too!

I picked up the fridge today. It has 3 taps, and one picnic tap inside. Not 4 taps. Otherwise as described. Needs cleaning then I will post pics (might be a couple days).

The guy told me that he dispensed at 6psi. I guess that means he has shorter lines?

I still have a lot to learn about this!

Is it possible once all is cleaned and leak checked to force carb some water and then play with dispensing pressures?

Then I know in advance of brewing/kegging my next batch.

Probably short lines.

Beer and water carbonate differently, so it probably won't work the same. Water has no foam, which is the toughest part to get right with balancing the keg.

 

[NathPowe]

Dispensing/serving pressure isn't necessarily all that complicated. For a large number of beers (yes, this is a generalization) a carb level of around 2.5 works well. Obviously adjust a bit either way to your preference. Anyway, depending on how cold you like to keep your beer, this carb level is often achieved by setting your regulator somewhere in the 10-14 psi range. Use this chart to determine carb levels from temperature/PSI - http://www.kegerators.com/carbonation-table.php.

It seems like a lot of folks on HBT are keeping their temperature at 39 or so and a serving pressure of 12psi. This is where 10ft of 3/16 beer line comes in handy. That length of line will provide enough resistance to slow the pour a bit and reduce foaming. Personally, I never bothered with line balancing equations or any of that. I just went with 10ft of line to begin with and have since never had any issues. As I mentioned above, the 10ft lines work great for me even at serving pressures of 13-14, which is where I usually keep mine (I like keeping my rig at 41*F at enjoy a bit more carb on my beers).

Anyway, long story short - I wouldn't worry too much about balancing. Just grab some 10 footers and get to drinkin'. Just my opinion - I'm sure others will have different viewpoints.

Cheers.

 

[Newsman]

(snip)

Anyway, long story short - I wouldn't worry too much about balancing. Just grab some 10 footers and get to drinkin'. Just my opinion - I'm sure others will have different viewpoints.

Cheers.

Opinions are like buttholes... everyone's got one and some of them stink worse than others, but this is pretty common advice -- 10' of beer line per tap at 10-12 PSI is what most folks here will recommend. Plus it has the advantage that if you need to move your kegs around, you don't have to worry about lines being too short and having to disconnect 'em.

 

[BradTheGeek]

Great info! Thanks.

Another newbish question.. does the manifold/gas distributor drop the stated gauge pressure as seen by the kegs?

 

[day_trippr]

A bare manifold (no shut-off valves) would provide essentially zero restriction. Supposedly, anti-backflow check-valves often found integrated into gas shut-off valves on manifolds induce up to 1/2 psi of restriction. I have no way of measuring something that small in either of my gas systems, so I basically ignore it...

Cheers!

 

[BradTheGeek]

Wow. I have been too busy to deal with this, but I have finally made some headway on this project. Of course I have questions!

Got the fridge cleaned and it works!
Have been cleaning the kegs.
Got line to replace the gunky line.

Found out my LHBS does tank exchange for 5lb and 20lb tanks. I have a 15lb. Looks like I am going to have to get it tested and filled.

It does have some gas in it. However it appears that the tank side regulator gauge has taken a hit and does not work, it is bottomed out in the red and there is a dent on the side of the gauge. The low side registers pressure, but I do not know how accurate it is.

What sayeth the wise ones here? Should I replace the gauge? Is there a way to test the accuracy of the line pressure gauge? Should I just bit the bullet and buy a new regulator and gauges?

I am not super worried about the high side gauge anyway as my understanding is they are not much use.

 

[day_trippr]

A high pressure CO2 gauge will cost you around $10-15 delivered. I think they're worth it because of this chart.

So while a damaged high side gauge wouldn't keep me from operating either of my CO2 systems, I'd replace the gauge eventually.

As for the low pressure gauge, if there's no evident damage to it, unless you have alternate means of verifying the pressure, go on faith until you have reason to be suspicious...

Cheers!

 

[ericbw]

A high pressure CO2 gauge will cost you around $10-15 delivered. I think they're worth it because of this chart.

So while a damaged high side gauge wouldn't keep me from operating either of my CO2 systems, I'd replace the gauge eventually.

As for the low pressure gauge, if there's no evident damage to it, unless you have alternate means of verifying the pressure, go on faith until you have reason to be suspicious...

Cheers!

But what about all the stuff you read about how the high pressure gauge doesn't really tell you anything unless you have a really big tank? That it will register full until it is empty?

Why not just get a plug (brass fitting) and remove the high pressure gauge?

 

[day_trippr]

But what about all the stuff you read about how the high pressure gauge doesn't really tell you anything unless you have a really big tank? That it will register full until it is empty?

Why not just get a plug (brass fitting) and remove the high pressure gauge?

That graphic explains all...just look at it for a minute...

Cheers!

 

[ericbw]

That graphic explains all...just look at it for a minute...

Cheers!

I may not understand the graphic completely. at 40 degrees, the PSI will read 567 when it is 100% full? And when it is 40% full what does it read? 567?

 

[zachattack]

I may not understand the graphic completely. at 40 degrees, the PSI will read 567 when it is 100% full? And when it is 40% full what does it read? 567?

Yup. The high pressure gauge doesn't tell you how much CO2 is in the tank, but IMO it's still very useful to know that there's some CO2 in the tank. So if it were me I'd keep the gauge.

 

[day_trippr]

Yes, you have that correct - which is important

The real points of interest, however, occur to the left. If you follow your 40°F curve you can continue to calculate the remaining % of fill by the high pressure reading, so that when the gauge hits 400psi the tank is down to the 10% fill level.

In my case, that "knee" in the chart tells me the tank's about ready to be swapped without needing to periodically remove the reg and weigh the tank. As my tanks are outside the keezer and carb fridge I use the actual room temperature and find the corresponding point on the chart...

Cheers!

 

[BradTheGeek]

Thanks for the info!

 

[Malticulous]

I don't use my high pressure gauges. When it's empty you know it. I do have a few 20 oz paint ball tanks. I'd really like a bigger tank and just use my 5 pounder as a backup.