I would like some feedback on my fly sparging technique, my resulting efficiency has varied from 66% to 90% over 5 batches. I have been a batch sparger for 5 years but I retired my cooler MLT this year - it was time, something nasty grew in the insulation. My batch sparging efficiency was very consistent ~78%.
Anyway I have ran 5 batches through a keg MLT with a false bottom and a silicone tubing sparge arm which lies on top of the grain bed. My basic technique follows BierMuncher's Hybrid Fly technique as listed in this thread and my sparge arm is shown below.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=75454
I do not think my grain mill needs adjusted, it is set at a gap of .032" and I haven't changed how I handle my water with batch sparging so I am at a loss for the inconsistent efficiency.
My steps are this.
- Pre-heat MLT to desired temperature required for step temperature. Add grain. Water:grain ratio is 1.25 quarts/lb.
- Recirculate my mash through my HERMS coil for an hour at the step temperature (151-156 F depending on the beer). I use a march pump with the valve fully open for this.
- About 45 min into the mash I stop recirculating the mash and crank the heat on the HLT to reach 185 F
- At 60 minutes I stir mash quickly, vorlauf using a march pump
- I begin sparging with the 185 F water from the HLT with a march pump throttled down as low as I can get a trickle of water to flow. My sparge arm is a piece of silicone tubing which I lie on top of a plate. I may try using a lightweight pie plate rather than a ceramic plate next attempt as the heavy ceramic plates tend to sink into the grain bed.
- The result is about 165-170F water in the area around the sparge arm - basically my lazy mash out and fly sparge at same time. I do this as I currently only have one burner and don't want to move the HLT until it is nearly empty.
- Use march pump #2 to drain the wort slowly into the BK. I try to match the flow rates by eye and keep ~2-3" of water over the grain bed.
- I use the sight glass on my HLT to eyeball when to stop adding water. I try to end with a dry mash with just the right volume in the BK - perhaps this is my issue?
- Allow the BK to continue to fill. I pump at about 1 quart/minute so it takes around 30-40 minutes to sparge a single batch or around 80-90 minutes for a double batch. Check pre-boil SG and see how hard I need to boil or if I need to add water to dilute.
I am unsure if my sparge arm is causing channeling or if I should continue adding extra water to the mash in order to keep the grain bed from compacting. I could use a bit of advice as I am liking how hands off fly sparging is especially with the double batches but I need to be more consistent. I have read that many are happy with silicone tubing sparge arms.
Anyway I have ran 5 batches through a keg MLT with a false bottom and a silicone tubing sparge arm which lies on top of the grain bed. My basic technique follows BierMuncher's Hybrid Fly technique as listed in this thread and my sparge arm is shown below.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=75454
I do not think my grain mill needs adjusted, it is set at a gap of .032" and I haven't changed how I handle my water with batch sparging so I am at a loss for the inconsistent efficiency.
My steps are this.
- Pre-heat MLT to desired temperature required for step temperature. Add grain. Water:grain ratio is 1.25 quarts/lb.
- Recirculate my mash through my HERMS coil for an hour at the step temperature (151-156 F depending on the beer). I use a march pump with the valve fully open for this.
- About 45 min into the mash I stop recirculating the mash and crank the heat on the HLT to reach 185 F
- At 60 minutes I stir mash quickly, vorlauf using a march pump
- I begin sparging with the 185 F water from the HLT with a march pump throttled down as low as I can get a trickle of water to flow. My sparge arm is a piece of silicone tubing which I lie on top of a plate. I may try using a lightweight pie plate rather than a ceramic plate next attempt as the heavy ceramic plates tend to sink into the grain bed.
- The result is about 165-170F water in the area around the sparge arm - basically my lazy mash out and fly sparge at same time. I do this as I currently only have one burner and don't want to move the HLT until it is nearly empty.
- Use march pump #2 to drain the wort slowly into the BK. I try to match the flow rates by eye and keep ~2-3" of water over the grain bed.
- I use the sight glass on my HLT to eyeball when to stop adding water. I try to end with a dry mash with just the right volume in the BK - perhaps this is my issue?
- Allow the BK to continue to fill. I pump at about 1 quart/minute so it takes around 30-40 minutes to sparge a single batch or around 80-90 minutes for a double batch. Check pre-boil SG and see how hard I need to boil or if I need to add water to dilute.
I am unsure if my sparge arm is causing channeling or if I should continue adding extra water to the mash in order to keep the grain bed from compacting. I could use a bit of advice as I am liking how hands off fly sparging is especially with the double batches but I need to be more consistent. I have read that many are happy with silicone tubing sparge arms.