Need advice on ferm temps

[3sheetsEMJ]

I'd really like to get some advice on proper fermentation temps at the deifferent stages of fermentation. Everywhere I look online I see "pay attention to temps", but it doesnt say what those temps should be. I feel that temperature control is so important, I want to do it correctly.

For a regular American ale, I have heard to pitch at room temp, maybe a few degrees cooler, ferment for 3-4 days at 66-68 degrees, then warm to 72-75 degrees to help with the "clean up effort", then cold crash near freezing a few days before kegging. Is that accurate? Also what are good ways to control these temps, especially in the hot summer months?

 

[porcupine73]

I think it really depends on the yeast. Usually it seems people like to start out in the low range of yeast temp range (usually says on the package), and finish up in the upper range.

To control the temperature usually people would use a fermentation chamber such as a chest freezer with a temperature controller such as the STC-1000.

 

[Golddiggie]

I do what I can to get the wort chilled lower than the yeast will ferment at. Then monitor the temperatures to ensure it's within the range that the yeast does what I want. I then leave it alone to do what it does best. I don't warm it up after a set amount of time, nor do I cold crash my brews. I simply use highly flocculant yeast, and give it enough time to settle out. I then transfer to serving kegs and set aside (until a spot in the brew fridge opens up).

Good ways to control temps include fermentation chambers (if you have the budget and can get the parts at a decent rate), swamp coolers (dirt cheap) and basements. I use the basement for my primary temperature control, and add a swamp cooler if/when needed. With the amount of space in the unfinished side of the basement where I'm living, I have no issues.

 

[ncbrewer]

A swamp cooler will work if your budget won't allow a fermentation chamber. Maintaining the temperature is a chore though.

One note about published temperature ranges - Some yeast strains, like Nottingham, can ferment at very low temperatures, and give a lager-like flavor. If you're going for an ale, it's better not to go to those very low temperatures.

 

[Golddiggie]

I've chilled my wort to under 55F before, and used yeast that list temperatures starting at/about 60F. The yeast warmed the wort up into the low 60's, and then stayed in the good range for the duration.

BTW, depending on where you are, and where you place it, a swamp cooler can be either easy to use, or a total pain. It's much easier, for me, in the basement where I now live, compared with the second floor apartment I lived in before. How often you need to add ice to the cooler will depend on ambient air temps.

 

[daksin]

The biggest things are to make sure you're accurately measuring the temperature of the BEER, not the ambient conditions or swamp cooler water, and also to avoid any large variation in temperature, more than a few degrees. Even if your beer would normally ferment happily at 63 or 68, if you have been fermenting at 68 for a while and the temp goes down to 63, the yeast may pack it in and take a nap.

 

[3sheetsEMJ]

The biggest things are to make sure you're accurately measuring the temperature of the BEER, not the ambient conditions or swamp cooler water, and also to avoid any large variation in temperature, more than a few degrees. Even if your beer would normally ferment happily at 63 or 68, if you have been fermenting at 68 for a while and the temp goes down to 63, the yeast may pack it in and take a nap.

I use a fermometer on the side of my fermentors that are above the water line in my swamp cooler, its not going to be balls on accurate, but probably pretty close. I have a difficult time keeping the temp steady in the cooler in the hotter months of summer...

 

[Akneebreeated]

I use an 8.8 cubic foot chest freezer whit a temp controller. I placed my temp sensor in a dry well and suspended it inside a 3 gallon jug of water. My freezer is big enough for this 3 gallon jug and my primary 5 gallon ferment bucket. I am totally new to home brewing and I have only just racked my first batch to secondary last night but my temps seem to stay pretty steady so far, not swinging outside a 3 degree range. Also I live on the gulf coast of southern Texas, it's HOT here mostly. This time of year and just this past week we went from 40 degrees back to the 80's and temps in my cooler have been rock solid. I started this batch at 68 degrees for primary fermentation, one week. Bumped up to 70 for secondary and figure on bottle conditioning around 72/75...

 

[daksin]

I use a fermometer on the side of my fermentors that are above the water line in my swamp cooler, its not going to be balls on accurate, but probably pretty close. I have a difficult time keeping the temp steady in the cooler in the hotter months of summer...

I agree that the fermometers are fairly accurate (I'll say accurate enough- they're what I use). I've measured them to be within 1.5 degrees F of my wort (using better bottles- thin walls). You do have to be more diligent in the summer, but it can be done.

My condo is usually 85-90F in July, and both my wife and I are away 9h per day, but we can keep the temp straight between ice, buckets, water, and towels. It's more work than those in states with seasons, but worth it.

 

[Golddiggie]

The biggest things are to make sure you're accurately measuring the temperature of the BEER, not the ambient conditions or swamp cooler water, and also to avoid any large variation in temperature, more than a few degrees. Even if your beer would normally ferment happily at 63 or 68, if you have been fermenting at 68 for a while and the temp goes down to 63, the yeast may pack it in and take a nap.

I have a thermowell going down into the middle of my fermenter.

Bottom view:

Side view:

Goes down 16" into the wort (tall 1/4bbl keg), so it stops at about 7-8" above the bottom of the cone. Gets me close enough to dead center to do the job. I then send a sensor down the thermowell, and plug up the top of it (so that ambient air temp doesn't influence the readings). IMO/IME, this gives me both accurate temperature readings, and provides a record of high and low temps (thermometer records those, plus displays present temp).

Also, IMO/IME, fermometers in water baths are not going to be accurate. Having them above is better, but it can still be a good amount off (depending on what you ferment in).

 

[3sheetsEMJ]

Im seeing some pretty cool stuff on this thread!

How much swing in temp is too much for yeast? I have always been told that large temperature swings can be worse for the yeast than higher temps (70-75 degrees) so i have avoided doing too much in the way of cooling, since I dont want it to go from 65 to 75 degrees in a short period of time. But what is considered a large swing? 10 degrees? 3 degrees?

Also, right now Im using a tote filled with water and covered with a dark thin blanket. How can this be improved? Keep in mind Im in an apartment and space is limited. Id like To be able to keep it at 66-68 degrees consistenty for the first few days then raise it after day 4 to around 70-72.

Thanks for all the posts! This is good stuff!

 

[Golddiggie]

I make sure the batch is fermenting where I want/need it to be in order to get what I want out of the yeast. That all depends on the strain used. I prefer to maintain a stable temperature once fermentation really starts, and then allow it to cool down as it slows. Depending on the yeast strain you're using, the temperature range you want to maintain could be just a few degrees F.

I'm not a fan of increasing the fermentation temperature after just a few days. I've been getting rock solid results by using the methods I've been using (since being able to have the brew ferment in a temperature stable area).

 

[slarkin712]

I have a thermowell going down into the middle of my fermenter.

Bottom view:

Side view:

Goes down 16" into the wort (tall 1/4bbl keg), so it stops at about 7-8" above the bottom of the cone. Gets me close enough to dead center to do the job. I then send a sensor down the thermowell, and plug up the top of it (so that ambient air temp doesn't influence the readings). IMO/IME, this gives me both accurate temperature readings, and provides a record of high and low temps (thermometer records those, plus displays present temp).

Also, IMO/IME, fermometers in water baths are not going to be accurate. Having them above is better, but it can still be a good amount off (depending on what you ferment in).

Damn, that keg fermentor setup is just what I have been looking for. Where did you get that? Particularly the cap with the thermowell.

 

[tre9er]

Personally, I pitch where I want to be or slightly below and try to monitor the beer temp, albeit not as accurate taped to the side of the vessel with foam over it, with my temp controller. I haven't found it to be a problem to have the beer a few degrees higher than you ideally want, just don't want to get out of the upper range for that yeast. I DO increase my temps once krausen falls, usually 5 degrees or so, to encourage yeast to stay in suspension and clean up. Doing this I'm usually able to have good beer in about a week to 10 days total fermentation time, without off-flavors. Most of my beers are being drank within 2 weeks of brewing (I keg).

Before I could temp control I would do the swamp cooler and let the beers age more, but taste and gravity always tell me when my beer is done.

 

[Golddiggie]

Got the cap and thermowell from Brewer's Hardware (along with the clamp to secure it). Got the 1/4" NPT to 19/32-18 fittings from Keg Connection. Had the cap drilled out and the threads on the fittings lathed down as well as the inside of the liquid post fitting reamed out, before they were welded up. I had someone TIG weld it for me, since I didn't have my own welding setup where I was living. Now that I have my welding (gas) system at home, I can make them myself. Just need to get the stainless drilled and fittings reamed out first.

So, depending on what you have for tools/equipment, you could do it all yourself. I do intend to get a small metal lathe once I'm working again (contract I was on ended). I have a drill press to use, that I hope will be able to cut into the caps. If not, I'll find a local machine shop to do that for me.

BTW, with my gas welding system I intend to silver solder the parts together. I have silver solder rods on hand, luckily (stuff is NOT cheap these days), that I'll be able to use. I really like being able to do more myself. Just wasn't an option at my old apartment. Plus, the tools I have were about an hour drive away. Not very friendly if you want do make some fittings with little planning.