Need advice on e-brew setup!

[nigma]

I am trying to make the jump to the e-brew bandwagon. I am planning on using this (http://mennen.org/EVSE/index.htm) to divert 220/240 from the dryer to support the new system.

I am just not sure what elements to run…

A typical brew day is 2-3 5gal batches with 2 burners (Boil and HLT) and a 1500w rims tube for the mash with 2 Chugger pumps on a separate breaker and a 12v pump for the HLT. The batches are staggered and at times everything is running at once (Boil burner with pump 1 whirl pooling) (Mush tun with RIMS and pump 2) (HLT burner heating water and 12v pump circulating).

If I replace the two burners with heating elements, I fear I will not have enough power from the 220/240.

 

[LandoLincoln]

What's the circuit breaker rating on that circuit? That will give you an idea of how much juice you can suck into your rig. If your circuit was wired correctly.

Google "electric brewing spreadsheet gnipsel" and download his spreadsheet to see how long it would take to get to mash temps and boil temps with various wattages.

You could run 3000w worth of heating elements on 240v and that would be about 12.5 amps.

You can get 6g of water from 65° to 155° in about 56 minutes with a 1500w element.
You can get 6g of water from 155° to boiling in about 35 minutes with a 1500w element.

 

[iijakii]

Assuming 30A since you mention dryer.

4500w boil kettle and 1500w rims. No heating HLT when BK is running. Either cold sparge or full volume mash.

 

[BrunDog]

...I am planning on using this (http://mennen.org/EVSE/index.htm) to divert 220/240 from the dryer to support the new system...

That looks nicely dangerous!!

 

[kombat]

I haven't seen anyone mention it yet, but wouldn't the OP need to replace the dryer's circuit breaker with a GFI one?

 

[LandoLincoln]

I haven't seen anyone mention it yet, but wouldn't the OP need to replace the dryer's circuit breaker with a GFI one?

No, you wouldn't have to. You could incorporate a GFCI circuit breaker right into the control panel. Or you could take a spa panel and put a plug on it and have the spa panel plug into the dryer outlet and then have the control panel plug into the spa panel.

 

[kombat]

Sure, you could, agreed. But like I said, I hadn't see anyone mention anything at all about the necessity of a GFCI yet, so felt compelled to bring it up, for safety's sake.

 

[nigma]

Thank for all the help!!!

For safety and the fact the 30A breaker is about 30 years old. I had already planned on replacing it with a GFCI. I built a small box for the Arduino PID control for the 1500w RIMS tube and pumps and with the new system, I’m planning a much bigger built with a 10" touch panel.

Here is what I have come up with... MAX OUTPUT FROM PLUG: 6000W / 240v = 25A on 30A 2 Pole Breaker

Option1
To start, use 1 burner to preheat 10 gal of water to around 150F-ish for mash in, pump it to the HLT and use a 1500W @ 240V = 6.25A element to keep at temp, pump 5ish gal (depending on batch size) to mash in, slowly fill back to 10 gal. According to (http://brewmastercontrols.com/index.php/electric-heat) heating 5 gal from 70F (ground temp) to 170F at 1500w is around 45min. Run the 1500W @ 240V = 6.25A element RIMS tube to maintain mash and small stepping. With a 3000W / 240V = 12.5A element for boil and start the element at 4 gal should have it at close to the boil by 7gal and take 20min.

Option 2
To start, use 1 burner to preheat 10 gal of water to around 150F-ish for mash in, pump it to the HLT and use a 2000W @ 240V = 8.3A element for keep at temp, pump 5ish gal (depending on batch size) to mash in, slowly fill back to 10 gal. According to (http://brewmastercontrols.com/index.php/electric-heat) heating 5 gal from 70F (ground temp) to 170F at 2000w is around 29min. I can continue to run the 1500w RIMS tube to maintain mash and small stepping on the 15A garage breaker. With a 4000W / 240V = 16.7A element with only 9min for boil by 7gal.