need a bigger boil kettle - keg vs. new pot?

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gkeusch

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I need to upsize from my 8 gallon brew pot/boil kettle to at least 10 gallons. I see all the treads about keggles, which I think I could do the keg conversion for, but what can I expect to pay for a used keg as compared to the price tag for a new pot ($150 and north from what I see)? What are the downsides to using the keggle for boiling?
Thanks for your input
 
I paid $50 for a keg with the top cut off (and cut-out portion + welds to use as a lid) with no fittings.
 
It really boils down to batch size and boil times. Sorry for the pun!! I couldn't resist.

No down side to a keggle at all, other than the work involved in making it. The only thing I can say is. You have ask yourself how much wort you will be collecting? What is your boil time? and, What is your boil off rate?

I just upgraded from a keggle to a 20 gallon pot. I was doing mostly 10 gallon batches and if I wanted to boil for 90 minutes, I was pushing the limits of the keggle. I was on the brink of a boil over almost every session. Armed with only a squirt bottle. Sometimes if my efficiency was better than expected I'd collect more wort to hit my target numbers and guess what I'd was doing the squirt bottle jig again.

Just food for thought that will save you the headache and most importantly the cash. By the way were are you located? I've got a keggle sitting in my garage doing nothing.
 
I have both, but prefer pots:
Keggles are heavier (extra material with top, bottom rims)
Keggles are harder to handle (they are tall and handle holes are located at the very top and I find it hard to use my legs to lift up; large pots are generally wider and handles are placed lower for better leverage)
Keggles are harder to clean with the domed lip from where the hole is cut out.

I use my Keggle as a HLT now so it only sees water. I use a pot as the kettle. If I didn't luck into a keggle I would have gone with a pot.
 
It really boils down to batch size and boil times. Sorry for the pun!! I couldn't resist.

No down side to a keggle at all, other than the work involved in making it. The only thing I can say is. You have ask yourself how much wort you will be collecting? What is your boil time? and, What is your boil off rate?

I just upgraded from a keggle to a 20 gallon pot. I was doing mostly 10 gallon batches and if I wanted to boil for 90 minutes, I was pushing the limits of the keggle. I was on the brink of a boil over almost every session. Armed with only a squirt bottle. Sometimes if my efficiency was better than expected I'd collect more wort to hit my target numbers and guess what I'd was doing the squirt bottle jig again.

Just food for thought that will save you the headache and most importantly the cash. By the way were are you located? I've got a keggle sitting in my garage doing nothing.

Richland Michigan. Would be interested...
Thanks for the replies all
 
Getting inside and cleaning a keggle is a hassle with the lip, you can pour out the liquid in a pot by tipping it 90° but you have to turn a keg 135° to get it to drain.

I got two straight side kegs for $40 on Craigslist so that made it a no-brainer. The price was right, and there's almost no chance of bending the walls and creating a leak in weld-less fittings.

[Edit] You're a little too far to come get my second keg.

-B
 
Getting inside and cleaning a keggle is a hassle with the lip, you can pour out the liquid in a pot by tipping it 90° but you have to turn a keg 135° to get it to drain.

I got two straight side kegs for $40 on Craigslist so that made it a no-brainer. The price was right, and there's almost no chance of bending the walls and creating a leak in weld-less fittings.

[Edit] You're a little too far to come get my second keg.

-B

Forgot the lip and pouring out...probably the worse con of using a keggle of them all. good call!
 
I thought the kettles were supposed to be tri-clad to prevent scortchintg
 
I thought the kettles were supposed to be tri-clad to prevent scortchintg

It would help, but isn't required, and generally isn't worth the extra $200-300.

A bigger burner will help spread the heat out, or you can just be more aggressive about stirring while you heat to boil.
 
Did this research myself just recently, but ended up thinking about the opposite. What is the upside to a converted keg - cost. I picked up a 60 quart tri-clad SS pot for $120. How much can you get a keg for (how much for a legal one?) - that gives you your price difference. Plus you can easily find larger pots. The pot does not have any of the downsides (excessive weight, heat sink bottom rim, etc...)
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Keg conversions do look cooler..., but I was looking at purchasing a converted keg for $100, and ended up spending about $140 on the kettle and weld-less fitting.
 
Did this research myself just recently, but ended up thinking about the opposite. What is the upside to a converted keg - cost. I picked up a 60 quart tri-clad SS pot for $120. How much can you get a keg for (how much for a legal one?) - that gives you your price difference. Plus you can easily find larger pots. The pot does not have any of the downsides (excessive weight, heat sink bottom rim, etc...)

Well, talking about converted keg up-sides depends 100% on the market. Many people will recover kegs that have broken sanke necks from the scrap yard, and others will source leaking kegs directly from a brewery. For me, I spent $40 total for two kegs that the distributor was no longer accepting back ($20/each).

Kegs do have some non-cost up-sides. They are very durable, no side warping or bending. They are fairly heat stable which makes holding a mash temp easier. They are also a great Width-Height ratio which cuts down a bit on boil-off losses. Finally, they look damn cool all polished up.

That said, if you're thinking about spending more than $50 on a keg to convert, you are WAY better off going with an actual kettle.

Keg downsides include weight (pain in the ass to tip and clean), the "neck" makes it hard to get in and out of the kettle and makes cleaning a pain, and the handle lip/rim means you have to reach over more to get to the bottom.
 
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