Need a 5500 watt element for a 13" kettle.

[Sharper]

Converting to electric soon and looking for the correct size element for my 13.5" 8 gallon kettles, I've done a quick search and couldn't find the info.

Any suggestions?

Ps- I plan on upgrading my batch size eventually which is why I'd like the 5500 watt size.

Many thanks,
Scott

 

[brewmasterorr]

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/element5500.htm

 

[carpenike]

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/element5500.htm

+1. I have this one too.

 

[BlkWater_brewer]

Just one little note. For eight gallon 5500 watt is overkill, I run a single 4500 watt element in my 1/2 barrel boil kettle. I power it with a Auberins Digital SSR Power Regulator. I never have to set the regulator to more than 60% of capacity to reach a boil, in minutes. I haven't bought into the whole all stainless element notion. I clean my kettle after brewing and don't leave water/cleaner or what have you in it when not in use. Use the standard Home Depot Camco ripple uhwd element and rust has not been an issue. I can get 2 camco for the cost of the all stainless. But then I am opinionated and frugal - so there is no right or wrong, only personal preference.

 

[JoshuaW]

Just one little note. For eight gallon 5500 watt is overkill, I run a single 4500 watt element in my 1/2 barrel boil kettle. I power it with a Auberins Digital SSR Power Regulator. I never have to set the regulator to more than 60% of capacity to reach a boil, in minutes. I haven't bought into the whole all stainless element notion. I clean my kettle after brewing and don't leave water/cleaner or what have you in it when not in use. Use the standard Home Depot Camco ripple uhwd element and rust has not been an issue. I can get 2 camco for the cost of the all stainless. But then I am opinionated and frugal - so there is no right or wrong, only personal preference.

More power is never wrong!

You are probably correct, but if your system can handle it, why not? Like you are doing, he will probably scale it down anyways.

As for the all stainless, many people have been careful and had problems. If the all stainless lasts a few years extra, it pays off (IMO). Thankfully both styles are interchangeable, and you aren't locked into a proprietary option either way, which would be the case if you went with something like the Boilcoil.

Hopefully Bobby can work on getting more elements over time with lower watt densities and lower power requirements.

 

[BlkWater_brewer]

More power is never wrong!

You are probably correct, but if your system can handle it, why not? Like you are doing, he will probably scale it down anyways.

As for the all stainless, many people have been careful and had problems. If the all stainless lasts a few years extra, it pays off (IMO). Thankfully both styles are interchangeable, and you aren't locked into a proprietary option either way, which would be the case if you went with something like the Boilcoil.

Hopefully Bobby can work on getting more elements over time with lower watt densities and lower power requirements.

The biggest problem I have had is with the dam March pumps losing prime due to whatever and cooking the elements in my RIMS. Doesn't take long to do the deed. Had to configure an Arduino flow sensor to address this problem.

As far as more is better, that works with ABV and horse power, excess watts just tax some of the cheap components that get used. But like I said there is no wrong answer

 

[JoshuaW]

The biggest problem I have had is with the dam March pumps losing prime due to whatever and cooking the elements in my RIMS. Doesn't take long to do the deed. Had to configure an Arduino flow sensor to address this problem.

As far as more is better, that works with ABV and horse power, excess watts just tax some of the cheap components that get used. But like I said there is no wrong answer

Right on, if it works for you, then it is the right answer! I'm planning on using a 5500w element in my RIMS tube, but I will have the option of running it on 120v. Hopefully that will stop any chance of scorching and save the element in the event of an accidental dry fire.

 

[Bobby_M]

IMHO there is no reason at all to use 5500 watts in a RIMS unless it's being used for water heating. In that case, you definitely want to either run it on 120v or use the new Auber power controller in series with a PID to effectively limit the wattage during mash recirculation.

On the question of 5500w vs. 4500w, I also don't think there are many components that save money running on 4500 as 40a SSRs are not much more than 25a ones. I suppose it's possible to run 4500 on a 20 amp circuit, but it's borderline.

The question as to whether the all stainless elements will be worth it to you is a bit tricky. Most people have issues with the bases rusting and a few people don't. The trouble is, by the time you find out you have the rusting problem, you've already spent the money on the standard element and then have to spend again. It's a penny wise, pound foolish situation. $39 is is less than $27+39.

 

[brewmasterorr]

^^^

I actually have the 5500 Watt eleemnts from another vendor that I am switching out for Bobby's... The standard element coating is much harder to clean off then the ones Bobby sells. Maybe they are not ulwd but I have not has any problems. I actually just rewired my rims for 220v and use the 5500 Watt element... I use a BCS to put the power at 60% so I can raise the mash temp faster. That's with a 20 gallon system though, the 1375 watts was taking 45 min to raise a 50lb mash up to mash out temps and it was killing me.

 

[Sharper]

Thanks for all the info. That brewers hardware element looks like the one I need.
Stainless should help it last and the extra power will let me scale up if/when I decide to.
Thanks again for all the input.

 

[jleiii]

Thanks for all the info. That brewers hardware element looks like the one I need.
Stainless should help it last and the extra power will let me scale up if/when I decide to.
Thanks again for all the input.

You won't go wrong with Bobby's element. I don't have much experience with mine yet, but it's been awesome so far. My pot is 12", and it fit with just a little room to spare, when using his triclover solder fitting and element mount/cover.
Boils 8 gallons of water in record time, and with a good control gives I nice rolling boil at a fraction of the full output.

 

[Bobby_M]

Thanks for all the info. That BrewHardware element looks like the one I need.
Stainless should help it last and the extra power will let me scale up if/when I decide to.
Thanks again for all the input.

Fixed that.