Need 240V PID wiring diagram

[Adrian Gresores]

I am building a simple eBIAB system. Does anybody have a wiring diagram for a 240V control panel that includes a PID, 40A SSR, 5500W element, 240V pump, and receptacles for the element and pump? I would also like to have a switch and LED for both the element and pump. This will all be plugged into a dedicated 30 amp L6-30R wall receptacle, connected to a 240V 30A GFCI breaker. I would greatly appreciate any advice.

 

[doug293cz]

You want the "Safe Start" interlock as well?

Brew on

 

[225]

https://ebrewsupply.com/pages/wiring-guide-2018-draft

 

[doug293cz]

https://ebrewsupply.com/pages/wiring-guide-2018-draft

That design does not meet OP's requirements, as it requires 4-wire power input, and uses a 120V pump.

Brew on

 

[Adrian Gresores]

I actually haven't bought the pump yet. And, I believe I do have a neutral wire between that breaker and the outlet. So, it should just mean attaching the neutral to the breaker and switching out to a 4-wire outlet. Doug, we've already been chatting in another post, so I think everything is covered.

 

[doug293cz]

I actually haven't bought the pump yet. And, I believe I do have a neutral wire between that breaker and the outlet. So, it should just mean attaching the neutral to the breaker and switching out to a 4-wire outlet. Doug, we've already been chatting in another post, so I think everything is covered.

Ok. It would be trivial (for me) to convert either of the designs in this post to 3-wire, 240V only, designs.

Brew on

 

[Adrian Gresores]

Well, as long as you're offering, I wouldn't mind seeing the 3-wire, 240V only, design with the "Safe Start" interlocks.

 

[doug293cz]

Ok, here's the 240V with neutral schematic:

And, here's the 240V without neutral schematic:

I didn't look into the proper plug/receptacle combo for 240V 10A application. Also, more fuses are required as either of the hot lines can source current in the event of a short, whereas a neutral cannot source any current, so does not need to be fused.

Brew on

 

[Adrian Gresores]

It looks like the pump switch in the schematic without neutral has 3 blocks, 2 NO and 1 NC. Which part number is that? SW11, 15, and 16 look like only 2 blocks each to me. Or, do you just splice the connections for the NO "blocks" onto the one actual NO block?

Adrian

 

[Adrian Gresores]

I figured it out. I just add a switch block.

 

[apache_brew]

Have you seen the BrewCommander? I was going to build a similar controller for 5500W single vessel brewing but ditched it when I saw this come out. I haven't purchased yet, but it seems to have good reviews.

 

[Adrian Gresores]

That does look like a well-engineered piece of hardware, and not a bad price. I'm going to have to think some more about this. Thanks.

 

[Adrian Gresores]

Ok. It would be trivial (for me) to convert either of the designs in this post to 3-wire, 240V only, designs.

Brew on

I know it's been a while, but would you mind showing me a 3-wire, 240V only design for the non-Safe-Start design above? Thank you, Adrian.

 

[doug293cz]

I know it's been a while, but would you mind showing me a 3-wire, 240V only design for the non-Safe-Start design above? Thank you, Adrian.

Brew on

 

[Adrian Gresores]

Thank you so much!

 

[KennyCason]

Beautiful diagrams!
On the 3 wire diagram it looks like you have both red and black (hots) connected to the 120v pump through a switch. Wouldn't 120+120 give you 240? I'm not an electrician and am wiring my first PID so any help is appreciated.

 

[doug293cz]

Beautiful diagrams!
On the 3 wire diagram it looks like you have both red and black (hots) connected to the 120v pump through a switch. Wouldn't 120+120 give you 240? I'm not an electrician and am wiring my first PID so any help is appreciated.

Yes. This is for a 240V pump motor.

Brew on

 

[KennyCason]

Yes. This is for a 240V pump motor.

Brew on

Well, that makes more sense then.
Do you have a diagram for the same setup that powers a 120v outlet (or is it possible)? My dryer outlet has a 10-30 connection on it, and I don't know if the third prong is ground or neutral or both. I'll have to take a look.

 

[doug293cz]

Well, that makes more sense then.
Do you have a diagram for the same setup that powers a 120v outlet (or is it possible)? My dryer outlet has a 10-30 connection on it, and I don't know if the third prong is ground or neutral or both. I'll have to take a look.

120V pump version is the first drawing in this post. Note that it requires a 4-wire power input, so a 10-30 outlet will not work. 4-wires are needed to get both 120V and 240V from the same outlet.

Brew on

 

[WNKbrew]

Ok, here's the 240V with neutral schematic:

View attachment 679523

And, here's the 240V without neutral schematic:

View attachment 679524

I didn't look into the proper plug/receptacle combo for 240V 10A application. Also, more fuses are required as either of the hot lines can source current in the event of a short, whereas a neutral cannot source any current, so does not need to be fused.

Brew on

Outstanding diagrams. I'm not an electric brewer (yet) and have a question. Is there a reason I don't see any 'emergency' all stop buttons? With 240v would it be deemed 'too late?

 

[doug293cz]

Outstanding diagrams. I'm not an electric brewer (yet) and have a question. Is there a reason I don't see any 'emergency' all stop buttons? With 240v would it be deemed 'too late?

The reason there is no e-stop switch is that it would be just another switch that does the same thing (as far as shutting things off) as the main power switch, located approximately the same distance from the brewer. In industrial situations, e-stops are located near where operators usually work, which are most often not anywhere near the control panel. They give the operator a quick way to shut things down that is within easy reach.

If you really want one, it is a trivial add to the design. Just add an NC mushroom top switch in series with (to the left of the main power switch, above where the two main switch contact pairs are connected together) with the main power switch.

Brew on

 

[WNKbrew]

The reason there is no e-stop switch is that it would be just another switch that does the same thing (as far as shutting things off) as the main power switch, located approximately the same distance from the brewer. In industrial situations, e-stops are located near where operators usually work, which are most often not anywhere near the control panel. They give the operator a quick way to shut things down that is within easy reach.

If you really want one, it is a trivial add to the design. Just add an NC mushroom top switch in series with (to the left of the main power switch, above where the two main switch contact pairs are connected together) with the main power switch.

Brew on

makes sense. would love to get into ebrewing but my house panel is maxed out. 2 food fridges, lagering fridge, 2 kegerators, glycol chiller, and large freezer don't help. ComEd sends me Christmas cards.

 

[KennyCason]

Would you put fuses on both hot poles? What amperage?

 

[doug293cz]

Would you put fuses on both hot poles? What amperage?

If your service breaker is 30A, and your wire is 10AWG, then you don't need fuses on any 10AWG wiring. If your service breaker is more than 30A, and your wire is 10AWG, then you need 30A fuses/breakers to protect your 10AWG wires from overcurrent.

Brew on

 

[Adrian Gresores]

120V pump version is the first drawing in this post. Note that it requires a 4-wire power input, so a 10-30 outlet will not work. 4-wires are needed to get both 120V and 240V from the same outlet.

Brew on

I have a 24V (not 240V) pump with a power supply that can plug into 110-240V. The power supply has a standard US 2-prong plug. I do not have a neutral wire in my circuit. Can I use a standard 120V receptacle (NEMA 5-15R) in your 240V schematic without neutral?

 

[doug293cz]

I have a 24V (not 240V) pump with a power supply that can plug into 110-240V. The power supply has a standard US 2-prong plug. I do not have a neutral wire in my circuit. Can I use a standard 120V receptacle (NEMA 5-15R) in your 240V schematic without neutral?

Yes, you can do it, but it opens up the opportunity to plug a 120V device into a 240V outlet. Personally, I would not do it. It would be better to change the plug on the power supply to a 240V plug, such as a NEMA 6-15 receptacle and plug

Brew on

 

[Bobby_M]

Agree. My solution was to put the power supply INSIDE the control box and hardwired the 240v input. The panel mount jack that sticks out of the box is 24VDC.

 

[Adrian Gresores]

Agree. My solution was to put the power supply INSIDE the control box and hardwired the 240v input. The panel mount jack that sticks out of the box is 24VDC.

Would something like this work for that? Power supply

 

[Bobby_M]

Yes as long as your pump doesn't draw more than 120 watts.

 

[Adrian Gresores]

Yes as long as your pump doesn't draw more than 120 watts.

I have a Steelhead 2.0 pump which is the same as the Topsflo pump on your website. Do you happen to know how much wattage it draws?

Also, I have seen some concerns online with the food safety of the materials used in this pump. What is your opinion of that?

Thanks.