• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

Natural gas brew stand - 23 tip burner to 10 tip conversion build.

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
aj, could you explain what you had to buy for a NG setup? Between the burner, valve, gas hose (I have a ng gas disconnect for a grill outside).

Do you have to do any other tweaking/conversion to get it to run right?


I've been trying to follow the ng threads, but I'm not sure what's the best way to go about getting there.

I apologize if I missed something obvious somewhere
 
Sure, I didn't really do a whole lot... if you have the NG stub, you are mostly there. I bought the replacement valve at Williams Brewing for natural gas:

HURRICANE CONVERSION VALVE @ Williams Brewing

That screws into the hurricane stove instead of the propane one. It's basically the same exact thing with a slightly larger orifice. Then, you pretty much need a hose to go between your NG stub and that new valve. I made one out of a really heavy duty air hose (I know, probably not recommended, but it's 2 freakin' PSI NG). As I mentioned before, it's 1/2" ID x 25' and seems to work fine.

That is honestly it. I didn't drill anything, tweak anything, add a regulator, or anything crazy like that. Just a hose and a new valve.

The only important thing to note is that this is for this particular stove only. A similar stove MAY work, but the catch is that it must be one that is designed for low pressure.
 
Done with the propane test..... still 5 gallons of water, same 65 degree starting temp, still going to boiling. It finished in a grand total of 21 minutes! I'm frankly a little shocked with how close the two came out.

Excellent, thanks for the comparison! I've got a run of 3/8" hose and a quick-disconnect (so I can continue to plug in my grill) between the 1/2" stub and my rig, so I'm likely not getting the same gas flow as you. But it's nice to hear that the performance is pretty much equivalent between the two fuels.
 
cool! That's what I thought. I've been trying to decide if I want to mess with my propane turkey fryer to try to convert it to NG, but if I can just get the new burner and a valve, that is probably a better option
 
Hey, on the stand mounted version, how far is the top of the burner from the bottom of your kettle?

Hey,
Just realized I missed this question. I will try to remember to measure when I get home. It definitely feels pretty close though, almost too close. Guessing off the top of my head, I would say probably 2.5 inches.
 
Hey,
Just realized I missed this question. I will try to remember to measure when I get home. It definitely feels pretty close though, almost too close. Guessing off the top of my head, I would say probably 2.5 inches.

Thanks...I didn't want to bug you again about it! I'm just curious to know what the manufacturer considers to be the correct distance.
 
Well, my construction and architecture jobs through high school/college must have been good for something because I nailed the measurement. From tip of the burner to bottom of the kettle is exactly 2.5 inches. I still think its a little too close though. I get alot of flames shooting out the sides and it seems like alot of BTU's are lost this way.
 
ajwillys,

Are you using keggles or a kettle with a a flat botttom. I just lit the first fire on my brutus clone and I have the hurricanes mounted 3.5" down from the frame and it took me 40 minutes to go from tap water of 42 degrees to boiling. I am running my supply line 1/2" to a 3/8" qd 12' bbq hose line I know I am on the 1/2 psi side of the main house reg. Are you running your supply on the 2 psi side aka right off the meter?

sorry for all questions just loooking to be able to do 10 gallon batches and not have it take all day
 
I'm using an aluminum kettle. It has a flat bottom and I also know aluminum heats faster than steel. I don't know where I'm at as far as PSI goes. I tee'ed right off the hot water heater supply. It's 1/2" supply, but I don't know whats behind the wall there. As far as I know, there is no other regulator other than the giant one outside by the meter that is supplied by the gas company. I only have gas heat and hot water, perhaps that tells you something?

In your test, I assume you also used 5 gallons? I would guess the extra 20 degrees to take another 5 minutes and the keggle to add maybe 5 minutes also.

Next time I use it, I can take a pic of the flame size but that will be awhile because I'm leaving for a week (cruise) and will not be back brewing until at least the end of April.
 
Hey thanks for the reply. It looks as my flame is clear blue and about 1.5- 2" I know I can only run two burners at once, once the third one is fired all seem to just go to low, but I dont really see the need to have all three at full steam all the time.
 
I just bought this burner.

I'm wondering if it's really necessary to plug all but 10 tips?
Wouldn't it be just as effective to increase the distance between the burner and the kettle? With a good wind shield are there any reasons this wouldn't work?
 
I just bought this burner.

I'm wondering if it's really necessary to plug all but 10 tips?
Wouldn't it be just as effective to increase the distance between the burner and the kettle? With a good wind shield are there any reasons this wouldn't work?

The first time you fire it up, you'll understand. With all tips firing, it's like a freakin' supernova! The first time I lit mine, I literally staggered backwards, stunned by the billowing column of heat. It's quite impressive.

The only way to effectively limit the output is to remove tips...simply reducing the gas supply results in yellow flames and soot on your kettle. That's why I eventually gave up and went with the hurricane burner.
 
These multi-jet Chinese wok burners are highly over rated IMO. They have an air fuel ratio designed for wide open throttle and the mixture is not adjustable and that is why they burn so poorly at low settings. They do look impressive obviously, but again IMO, they are poorly suited for use by us home brewers. Bling, bling aside, there are better burners to be had for less bucks. It's kinda like grain mills and chillers. Everyone is happy with the one they have and think it equal or superior to any others no matter what. Human nature I guess.
 
So, I went to the BBQ shop and picked up the hardware necessary to hook up the 23 jet burner. The BBQ guy told me that he had the same burner and uses it for big lobster boils.

Anyway, I wasn't able to find the M8 fine threaded bolts I need to plug up 13 of the jets, so I decided to hook up the burner and try it as is. The store that carries the bolts is open on Monday, so I'll get them then.

Well, when I lit it, I didn't see blue flame like I was expecting. In fact, I didn't see any flames at all. I got hit with a huge wave of heat. I could see the heat coming off the burner, but no flames. What does that mean?? There was a slight breeze today. Perhaps that had something to do with not seeing the flames.
 
It's rather hard to see the flames in daylight. Light it up again this evening. Then, turn the gas valve down and watch the flames go all orange and sooty.
 
Very interesting thread, I have NG too and am planning a 2 tier sculpture build and would love to go with NG. Not only do I grill with charcoal but have no propane tank so I'd have to buy and refill it just for brewing. The Hurricane looks as if it may be the better option. BTW I plan to do 10 gallon batches mainly using 15 gallon Megapots. So are there any safety valves or anything needed besides the burner/orifice and a ball valve?
 
Not sure what you mean by safety valves. I don't have any. The only 'safety' thing I would be worried about is if you have kids or something that might open the ball valve to the stub and leave it open. The make ball valves with a removable handle for this purpose
 
I have a ball valve on the gas stub, followed by a grill quick-disconnect which contains it's own internal shut-off valve. No gas flows unless the ball valve is open, and a supply hose is plugged in.

The quick-disconnect probably restricts the gas flow somewhat, but I need to be able to plug in my gas grill as well as my brewstand. Plus, I like the added safety factor. Life is full of little compromises. :rolleyes:
 
Yeah, I'm definitely going to use quick disconnects, for convenience and for the safety cut off. I will also use a ball valve at the stub out. I just didn't know if there were any safety pieces needed between the flame and the source.
 
I'm hesitant to post this, but my quick disconnects are actually garden hose M/F. Obviously they are non-valved but also no flow restriction. I'd never leave it setup that way if I sold the house. I don't want anyone trying to water the lawn with nat gas.
 
Thanks for the info everyone. I put a burner together this last Sunday, and HOLY MOTHER! I have plenty of NG pressure apparently, because the flame on my burner when turned all the way up is about 3 feet high! The 23-tip is so overkill, the flames were licking up around my HLT/keggle and cracked the glass on my dial thermometer. The burner was mounted 9" below the kettle, which I figured would help, but to no avail. What do you guys do to shield your valves and thermometers from the flame?
 
Thanks for the info everyone. I put a burner together this last Sunday, and HOLY MOTHER! I have plenty of NG pressure apparently, because the flame on my burner when turned all the way up is about 3 feet high!
What color are the flames? Are they blue that high? If not, you might not be getting enough air into the mix. When I cover the air port on my burner, the flames go about 5-6 feet high.
 
What color are the flames? Are they blue that high? If not, you might not be getting enough air into the mix. When I cover the air port on my burner, the flames go about 5-6 feet high.

All blue...in fact in the day you can't even see the flame. After testing this out on boiling 10g of water in my HLT, there was no soot. Mixture seems just fine.
 
Thanks for the info everyone. I put a burner together this last Sunday, and HOLY MOTHER! I have plenty of NG pressure apparently, because the flame on my burner when turned all the way up is about 3 feet high! The 23-tip is so overkill, the flames were licking up around my HLT/keggle and cracked the glass on my dial thermometer. The burner was mounted 9" below the kettle, which I figured would help, but to no avail. What do you guys do to shield your valves and thermometers from the flame?

I have mine set on top of a wooden stand... covered with a sheet of cement board and then I actually have a "stand" that the pots sit on made out of red brick. I have the brick stacked on their sides, two high and they make a circle that the pots sit on. That was the only thing I could think of that wouldn't melt with mine.

Those suckers toss off some heat huh?
 
Back
Top