Here is the equiment i've been slowly collecting for my build.
Nate's motorized grain mill
- Thread starter kegtoe
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rcm_rx7
Well-Known Member
Info on the motor please!
Hang Glider
Beer Drinker
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thats the one glider.
Csuho
Well-Known Member
hows the motor work? any trouble with it.
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havent wired it up yet still working on the base.
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adding some wheels
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sketching up the alignment.
I'm going to get one of those motors eventually. It's just way low on the list compared to other upgrades. That, and I don't have a good place to put a whole milling station right now.
cruelkix
Well-Known Member
Is that thing gonna have enough torque? 30 inch pounds is not much. You may not be able to fill your hopper very full before you start the mill. 1.1 amp draw at 115V = 126 Watts = .17 HP. Lots of threads I have read have said that a 1/3 HP (.3333) motor hasn't been enough power?
Just wondering. Let us know how it goes.
-Craig
tolip_ck1
Well-Known Member
cruelkix
Well-Known Member
I don't think so. I read the link and it says he used a 1/3 HP Motor.
tolip_ck1
Well-Known Member
What about this link? Only reason I am asking is because my motor is on its way.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/finished-my-motorized-mill-186036/
The top post, he posted the link of the motor he bought.
devildancer
Well-Known Member
I used this motor: https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=5-1098&catname=electric
I don't try to start it with a full hopper; just flip the switch and pour it in. With wheat I can only pour in as much as is getting crushed. If it starts loading the hopper the motor will stop.
I don't try to start it with a full hopper; just flip the switch and pour it in. With wheat I can only pour in as much as is getting crushed. If it starts loading the hopper the motor will stop.
tolip_ck1
Well-Known Member
OK that is the one that should be here for me in a day or 2.
I have 10 in rollers hope I can make it work.
I have 10 in rollers hope I can make it work.
devildancer
Well-Known Member
We use a 10" Schmidling mill and I'm very happy with that motor. You just have to know it's limits.
tolip_ck1
Well-Known Member
OK good!
I have no problem trying to figure out how to exceed them!
"Scotty I need more power!"
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motor mount started
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motor mount attached
TheCHICompany
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Using a Barley Crusher Mill:
Have the surplus center motor running at 177rpm.
Added 6" drive sprocket to 3" driven sprocket.
Result = Motor locks up with anything more that 1/2" deep of grain in mill.
Not happy.
Have the surplus center motor running at 177rpm.
Added 6" drive sprocket to 3" driven sprocket.
Result = Motor locks up with anything more that 1/2" deep of grain in mill.
Not happy.
devildancer
Well-Known Member
I'm using direct drive. So you cut the torque in half if I'm reading correctly?
Try reversing the sprockets (sheaves?) so that the 3" is the drive sprocket (on the motor) and the 6" is the driven sprocket (on the mill). You are reducing the torque and increasing the rpm's if it's set up as you describe.
Should the motor still lack sufficient torque with the sprockets reversed, you could try restricting the grain feed rate which will reduce the load on the motor. Some others report success when doing so.
tolip_ck1
Well-Known Member
Just curious, why are you not going with direct drive? I just got my couplings today, motor should be here tomarrow.
TheCHICompany
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Ordered coupler from Mcmaster.
Will convert to direct drive from chain drive though this will cut our intended RPM by half; from 354 to 177.
Can't change sprockets because sprocket holes different sizes: Motor = 1/2", Mill = 5/16". Sending back to mcmaster.
Will convert to direct drive from chain drive though this will cut our intended RPM by half; from 354 to 177.
Can't change sprockets because sprocket holes different sizes: Motor = 1/2", Mill = 5/16". Sending back to mcmaster.
tolip_ck1
Well-Known Member
Stupid question but is there a + or - side to this capacitor? Or can it be connected wither way?
devildancer
Well-Known Member
Either way works.
Sawdustguy
Well-Known Member
The barley crusher is only designed for direct coupling. It can not take the side force of using a pully or sprocket. You will sure wear out the bearings prematurely.
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wall cabinet measures 12x22 on th top.
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motor and coupling attached
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fitting the crusher base
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i re-drilled the holes from 5/16 to 3/8. that allowed a little more "play" when i put the bolts through and helped the base to sit more even. if you look close in the pics it seems a little "wobbly."
Looking good! what are you going to "catch" grain in that fits in the cabinet?
And do you have a layout of that motor bracket? Just ordered all the stuff since my drill died today....want to get a head start like you did.
And do you have a layout of that motor bracket? Just ordered all the stuff since my drill died today....want to get a head start like you did.
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i never wrote down the measurements of the motor base
How did the motor work out? Have you given it a try yet?
Looks good BTW.
Looks good BTW.
tolip_ck1
Well-Known Member
kegtoe nice woodwork.
With some leftover wood make safety guard to cover the drive shaft and protect your friends
Cheers,
ClaudiusB
Are they really friends if they are trying to touch your drive shaft!!!
tolip_ck1
Well-Known Member
Thanx for the ideas, I stole them and made my own!
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alright, I'm looking for some help from the HBT community.
1) I'm looking for some ideas on how to mount my control box. I have a project box from Radio Shack where i am going to mount the capacitor inside and 2 switches on the outside. I am thinking that i would make a psuedo table top to the right level with the rest of the top. I'd then likely make on on the left to put a scale on for weighing grains.
2) What's your opinions on color for the cabinet. I was originally going to stain the whole thing. But with the ply wood being a different species. AND the top not being perfectly square, it shows a few gaps and some end grain with the plies. I think now i'd like to sand it, use a bit of putty, prime it, and paint it black. That way i can add my HBT sticker to the front too.
What do you all think?
1) I'm looking for some ideas on how to mount my control box. I have a project box from Radio Shack where i am going to mount the capacitor inside and 2 switches on the outside. I am thinking that i would make a psuedo table top to the right level with the rest of the top. I'd then likely make on on the left to put a scale on for weighing grains.
2) What's your opinions on color for the cabinet. I was originally going to stain the whole thing. But with the ply wood being a different species. AND the top not being perfectly square, it shows a few gaps and some end grain with the plies. I think now i'd like to sand it, use a bit of putty, prime it, and paint it black. That way i can add my HBT sticker to the front too.
What do you all think?
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