Yea on one of my old burners I also used the BBQ grate to give me enough base. I just don't want to tear this apart and rebuild if I go too wide. But I also want room to mount the burner. Think ill stick with the 13"
Alot of great builds in this thread, and very informative. I have not seen anyone use the solid channel strut in a build? Is there any reason why you wouldn't to? To me it would end up looking alot more like a welded stand, and still have all of the functionality, thoughts?
I'd say weight, price, and availability. I haven't seen it locally. I've had a tough time even finding bolts, nuts, and fittings other than online.
wow great score! was this a local mom-n-pop shop, or a national chain? i'd go with SS if it wasn't 5 times the price of zinc-plated.I am using stainless solid channel strut on my build right now. I will post pics when it is done. It isnt significantly heavier. At the local electrical supply store they were blowing it out and It was cheaper than the slotted... Which is why I bought it.
TerraNova said:The stainless fittings are killing my budget though. And there is no point in having SS strut and not use SS fittings and bolts. eBay has been a project saver but it is taking longer than expected to build on budget. Either more money or more time to scour eBay for random parts on the cheap is needed.
Do you have fittings in the path of the flame? Aren't your fittings internal anyway? Just trying to speed up your process so I can see the brew pron!
The stainless fittings are killing my budget though. And there is no point in having SS strut and not use SS fittings and bolts. eBay has been a project saver but it is taking longer than expected to build on budget. Either more money or more time to scour eBay for random parts on the cheap is needed.
It's nuts isn't it?
The SS strut itself is fairly reasonable. Even the SS bolts weren't too bad.
I did stainless fittings except for the corner pieces. They wanted $44 each for those. I think it's because they were welded. The other pieces weren't that bad.
I just added some length to the stand keep the flames away from the corners. If it's a problem I might look to replace them later, but that's unlikely.
Yes the strut is reasonable. It's comparable in price to stainless tubing everybody uses in welded stands and relatively speaking the cost of the fittings and specialized nuts ( Here) is the same as hiring a welder. I looked into welding, I would need to take a short course in welding and get my hands on a machine, both of which would be even more money, but I liked that I can customize the stand and change it on whim with strut. There is no downside to using strut vs welding.
Still, those welded corner pieces are EXACTLY what is killing me. I have 2 but am still sourcing two more. Good idea about lengthening the stand but one of the things I wanted to do was make a compact stand. Still, that is a great workaround. I do love working on/engineering this project.
Looks awesome! So you went with the same QD's as I referenced? They are working great for me.
I've seen a lot of single tier and two tier systems on this thread, but there weren't too many three tier systems. I have been working on this for a while, but finally finished it, and used it for a brew this week.
I built mine with the idea that it should be able to store in a 24"x24" floor space in my shed. I wanted the system to be portable (if I wanted to take it somewhere) and be able to brew anywhere with or without power.
The main tower is 24"x24" and about 5' high. It has two BG12 burners, one for the HLT and one for the boil kettle. The bottom shelf is set at about 22" high, so I can syphon directly into the fermenter.
The shelf on the right hand side is built using two heavy-duty folding shelf brackets, and holds my Gatorade mash-tun. Its set about 45" off the ground (just enough to syphon into the BK). Because it folds it means that I can fold it down and store the whole system easily, without taking up extra floor space.
The top is 60" high, and holds the HLT, with another BG12.
I attached the burners is attached using threaded rod and a standard piece of angle-iron, so I can adjust the height. The threaded rod has a nut on it at the top (to make it hold through the fitting), and two at the bottom to sandwich the piece of angle iron.
I was a little afraid of condensation on the top bracket dripping back into the BK, but that seems to be ok (theres enough distance to not make that an issue).
The biggest problem I have is with the zinc on the crossbars flaking off - but that will go away soon I hope.
Since I wanted to be able to move this, I put harbor freight 7" or 8" wheels on the back strut supports. The supports are about an inch off the ground, and you can see where I had to level the stand to get it sturdy on my uneven (muddy) ground, but it held up well, and was nice and sturdy yesterday.
As you can see I still have to figure out a good way to attach the propane manifold, but the zip-ties are working for now
I'm really glad I did this.. I realized that I spent way too much time lifting and balancing pots and fermenters before. Now brewing seems so much easier
The bayouclassicdepot 10 tip burners are some of the cheapest quality out there look through old threads where people have tips fall out and cant thread back in. Just look at their disclaimer on the page about how none of them are tested and you cant return them.
Im not sure how you plan on igniting the burners but also not that bayouclassicdepot burners the 10 tips do not have the threaded hole for a standing pilot..
Much better quality can be found here http://www.topfoodservice.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=KECABJ
They have a good price and search the site for pilot also for around $5 you can get a pilot that threads into the burner they also have cool little manual pilot shutoff valves that fit 1/4 inch tubing and also cheap gas lines. $48 for a better quality burner is fair IMO... Plus there are many people on this forum who have used them and they are really happy with them.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrRoboto
The bayouclassicdepot 10 tip burners are some of the cheapest quality out there look through old threads where people have tips fall out and cant thread back in. Just look at their disclaimer on the page about how none of them are tested and you cant return them.
Im not sure how you plan on igniting the burners but also not that bayouclassicdepot burners the 10 tips do not have the threaded hole for a standing pilot..
Much better quality can be found here http://www.topfoodservice.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=KECABJ
They have a good price and search the site for pilot also for around $5 you can get a pilot that threads into the burner they also have cool little manual pilot shutoff valves that fit 1/4 inch tubing and also cheap gas lines. $48 for a better quality burner is fair IMO... Plus there are many people on this forum who have used them and they are really happy with them.
that is really good info. i will use this when I buy my burner. thanks for the fair warning.
How come the larger burners from that vendor are so significantly less expensive than the smaller burners? Seems strange that an 8" burner with 20 tips and throwing 150k BTUs is $20 cheaper than the 10 tip, 6" burner throwing half the btus. They're really skinny on details and specs (at least that I can find) so it's hard to tell if one would require a significantly greater gas pressure than the other, for instance... It seems like a no brainer, if the same pressure would run both equally efficiently, to go with 2 of the larger burner for just slightly more than the cost of 1 of the smaller, no?
Much better quality can be found here http://www.topfoodservice.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=KECABJ
They have a good price and search the site for pilot also for around $5 you can get a pilot that threads into the burner they also have cool little manual pilot shutoff valves that fit 1/4 inch tubing and also cheap gas lines. $48 for a better quality burner is fair IMO... Plus there are many people on this forum who have used them and they are really happy with them.
sccrgolee said:The last thing I was thinking about was something to hang mash paddles or long stainless spoons on. Has anyone seen a good idea for this?
Thanks!
These strut builds are awesome. I just finished my frame a couple days ago and I'm slowly but surely adding all the pieces (pumps, pump switch, gas plumbing, etc.)
For all the single tier builders out there, has anyone seen or done an extra section with a flat top for a "workstation" type thing? I envision being able to leave my paper and pen and iphone for note taking. I also see a drawer underneath that could hold refractometers, hydrometers, irish moss bottles, small thermometers, etc. I looked on mcmaster car for a drawers and found two but I hadn't seen them used in any other brew stands and I wanted to see more.
The last thing I was thinking about was something to hang mash paddles or long stainless spoons on. Has anyone seen a good idea for this?
Thanks!
sccrgolee said:thanks guys for the posts...i'm still surprised i haven't seen more drawers on peoples stands as well as an additional stand for a workspace...taking notes, etc.
i've looked long and hard for someone who's added a workspace and haven't seen it, so if you all know of something, please post!
thanks again for the comments!
MDRex said:How strong is the 13/16 strut and for what sections would be safe to use it?
Enter your email address to join: