My Super Efficient 5-Gallon Mash Lauter Tun

[Jonnio]

Once the height of the tee is set, that's it. There is no possibility of the fluid level changing.

That's a good idea, but wouldn't you want/need to have the height of the outlet of the loop be adjustable depending on the size of your grain bill? I can't see an English Bitter and a big Barleywine having the same setting.

 

[ChemE]

Yup. You would definitely want that height to be adjustable. If the bottom most valve is a true union ball valve, then you can loosen one side of the union, rotate the vertical, and tighten the union. The height of the tee would sweep out a circle and can be set at any desired height to accommodate any grain bill which would actually fit in the MLT.

True union ball valve

 

[McKBrew]

I have the 10G version of that cooler, but with a bazooka screen instead. What I really appreciate is the design for the jig to cut the copper tubes. I was trying to think of an effective way to do that when I build my manifold for my next NLT, and a jigsaw with that set-up is an awesome solution. Thanks.

 

[ChemE]

...What I really appreciate is the design for the jig to cut the copper tubes. I was trying to think of an effective way to do that when I build my manifold for my next MLT, and a jigsaw with that set-up is an awesome solution. Thanks.

My pleasure. I seriously stood out in my shop for a few hours trying to come up with that jig. I'm glad someone else can benefit from it. I haven't taken it apart yet. If anyone needs more pictures in order to recreate it, I can certainly snap some and post them up.

 

[TXCrash]

I like the way you think ChemE. By the time I build my MLT I'm sure I'll steal a good deal of your ideas and others garnered from this site and others.

 

[rtockst]

I plan on adding a Hartford Loop. These are commonly used in saltwater aquarium skimmers to maintain a constant water level in a vessel despite flow going both in and out. I tried to make how these work clear with notes on the SketchUp model but let me know if anyone has any questions. I really can't believe no one seems to use these for fly sparging. Once the height of the tee is set, that's it. There is no possibility of the fluid level changing.

When you are sparging with this method, would the runnings collect into your brewpot straight from the outflow of the hartford loop? I'm a bit confused with your flysparging method. Do you have a predetermined amount of sparge water in the large HLT, and eventually drain it all out into the kettle?

 

[ChemE]

Exactly. The runnings from either the top or the bottom of the hartford loop would drain directly into the boil kettle. The HLT is filled with a specific volume of water and so everything runs through the grist and drains into the boil kettle. The amount of water needed is pretty easy to figure. It is just your boil volume plus your predicted grain absorption volume. My last two brews I nailed this using the 0.1 gallon / pound rule.

 

[TommyBoy]

ChemE - Loving the Hartford loop here!

I see how the rotation of the loop could solve the problem of variable heights that one would experience with different batches but I wonder if there is another solution to overcome this without having your loop sticking way out to the side of the MT when you need to have the level of the upper drain low? Does anybody know if there is a product that could be extended straight up to adjust for different levels needed in the MT?

 

[TommyBoy]

What about making the loop and using this faucet supply hose?

You could then fabricate a fixture that can adjust up and down.

 

[TXCrash]

I haven't gone all grain yet, so take this with a grain of salt...

After reading this thread last night I was thinking about the hartford loop. I was under the impression that proper sparging depended on some negative pressure at the drain. This, of course, is generally provided by siphon or pump. I've seen stuck sparges reported when a drain tube is omitted (leaving just a ball valve, sans tube).

To restate: My concern is that there won't be enough pressure on the grain side (generally provided by 4+ inches of water) with the hartford loop in place.

I love the idea, and hope it works (I'll "borrow" it if it does).

My brain needs coffee....

 

[TommyBoy]

If this faucet hose would work and you could have the below bracket pictured firmed up between the MPT and the "T" when you screw those two pieces together this could be a solution. Assume that you are also using threaded nipples between "Ts", hose, and ball valves in the below picture. After you make the bracket all you would need to do is tack weld a bolt on the back of the upper "T" and have that be the fastener to the bracket with a wing nut and some washers. You could then adjust the height per batch.

 

[nathan]

that's pretty smart!

 

[TommyBoy]

Thanks Nathan.

I was thinking that you would also probably need a nut behind the fabricated bracket. You would put the nut on as far as you can, put the bracket on, put the "T" on as much as possible while keeping the open end up, and then turn the nut counterclockwise to isolate the bracket in the upright position.

If you have a thermometer you would obviously need to have your Hartford Loop assembly a little further away from the kettle.

I am assuming that the faucet supply hose would be ok for this as it is made for hot and cold, drinkable water. If it is this should be an awesome way to make sparging a hands off process without a float switch.

 

[ChemE]

I very much like the idea of a flexible hose in a rigid but adjustable mount to serve as an adjustable hartford loop. As to the lack of head pressure resulting in a stuck sparge there is only one way to find out! I'm going to use the flexible hose this weekend when I brew my Fat Tire clone and I'll report back here as to the results. I keep my Barley Crusher set at 0.025" so my runoffs are already crazy slow. Wish me luck!

 

[TJ-Bill]

Did you use Oak for your Jig?

 

[ChemE]

Yeah. It was what I had lying around from this project...

190 Gallon Aquarium Base

 

[Jonnio]

Very nice - I miss my aquarium and I never went near that big - I bet it's beautiful.

 

[slnies]

Not to be critical, but that would have made one hell of a nice skirt for a keezer/bar base. Very spiffy though. I like it. S.

 

[McKBrew]

My pleasure. I seriously stood out in my shop for a few hours trying to come up with that jig. I'm glad someone else can benefit from it. I haven't taken it apart yet. If anyone needs more pictures in order to recreate it, I can certainly snap some and post them up.

That would be greatly apreciated. BTW your aquarium base rocks, I look forward to seeing what happens when you build your keezer.

 

[Zymurgrafi]

1) Accommodate 5 gallon all grain batches (except barleywine)
2) Provide good filter thickness even with low-gravity 2.25 gallon test batches
3) Minimize dead space so as not to reduce efficiency
4) Allow for batch sparging without exposing the mash to cold air
5) Allow for easy cleaning and maintenance
6) Rinse the grain bed as efficiently as possible in order to maximize efficiency

Nice looking setup first of all. I have a few questions. Especially about the highlighted goals.

I can appreciate this forethought as I did not have it. I have been having some difficulties lately with attempting to mash smaller gravity beers and not being able to reach or maintain the right mash temp.

When you are referring to deadspace are you referring to the amount of liquid left or the empty air space above the grain bed, or both? As you mention the difference in low gravity versus high gravity grists.

If it includes the air space above how does your design solve this?

Also you meant to say Fly-sparging didn't you? Or are you doing both with this design?

I batch sparge so I was hoping you did actually mean batch sparge

 

[nathan]

you could probably use silicon tubing like we use in our brewstands.

 

[ChemE]

Nice looking setup first of all. I have a few questions. Especially about the highlighted goals.

I can appreciate this forethought as I did not have it. I have been having some difficulties lately with attempting to mash smaller gravity beers and not being able to reach or maintain the right mash temp.

When you are referring to deadspace are you referring to the amount of liquid left or the empty air space above the grain bed, or both? As you mention the difference in low gravity versus high gravity grists.

If it includes the air space above how does your design solve this?

Also you meant to say Fly-sparging didn't you? Or are you doing both with this design?

I batch sparge so I was hoping you did actually mean batch sparge

Thanks!

By dead space I mean liquid left in the MLT which can not be drained.
I did mean to say fly sparge rather than batch sparge. Thanks for catching that mistake.

Minimization of air above the mash shouldn't be too difficult to address. I would use a cutout of 2" foam wrapped in heavy-duty aluminum foil. I'd drill a hole in the middle of it to accommodate the 1/2" CPVC pipe that I use for my sparge manifold and position the sparge manifold just below the foam false ceiling. The adjustable hartford loop will assure that fly sparging doesn't result in the liquid level rising too high.

 

[Zymurgrafi]

Thanks!

By dead space I mean liquid left in the MLT which can not be drained.
I did mean to say fly sparge rather than batch sparge. Thanks for catching that mistake.

Minimization of air above the mash shouldn't be too difficult to address. I would use a cutout of 2" foam wrapped in heavy-duty aluminum foil. I'd drill a hole in the middle of it to accommodate the 1/2" CPVC pipe that I use for my sparge manifold and position the sparge manifold just below the foam false ceiling. The adjustable hartford loop will assure that fly sparging doesn't result in the liquid level rising too high.

Yeah, I tried with a floating top made of 2" foam wrapped in foil like you suggest. Guess it just does not work for batch sparging. I suppose I need a smaller MLT for smaller beers.

 

[nathan]

or just deal with the tiny heat loss...
I half-fill my igloo marine cube during mashes and I only lose a degree or so if I've pre-heated it.

 

[beerjunky828]

So being very new in trying to convert to all grain, what is the copper manifold at the bottom of the MLT for? What is its purpose.

Thanks

 

[ChemE]

The copper manifold is used to separate the sweet wort from the crushed grains. Ideally, it would allow the sweet wort to freely and evenly flow into it while preventing any husk or flour from the crushed grains from entering.

 

[Mirilis]

Each grain bed is going to be slightly different though. I also seconds the question. Without being able to see how can you determine your water in compared to wort out? Even with the practice and experience answer, you need to be able to see the first few times to gain the practice and experience.


Off topic Mirillis, My inlaws live down the road from you on 36 in Covington!! A whopping 21 minutes. we should brew sometime when I'm up there. I'll bring the FIL and BIL down.

Thats excellent!! sorry it took me so long to reply. I havnt been able to spend much time on HBT lately with work and potential move. (my relocation should be going along.. i had my house in contract but the guy didnt get financing so now im back to square one). I gotta get this place sold before
my new one gets built in Delaware, otherwise im SOL.

 

[Aubie Stout]

Question:

When using the HLT, how do you adjust for the temp changes? I use Beersmith. Typically, the temperature of my initial infusion of water is different than that of my sparge water temps. So what do you do? Heat all the water in the HLT to 168 and heat your initial infusion seperately?

Right now, I heat water to temp and dump it in. It's a little more time consuming, but I hit whatever temp that Beersmith tells me to hit......

 

[beerjunky828]

so does cutting slits into the manifold make the grains easier to catch??

 

[Jonnio]

so does cutting slits into the manifold make the grains easier to catch??

Kind of - The slits are what let the wort flow into the manifold. Small holes, slits, or stainless braided line all do about the same thing which is create small openings to the outside that are big enough for wort to flow through, but not grain husks.