My Single Tier DITCHES Build

[TriangleIL]

Guys, I need some help. Below are the electrical parts I *think* I need based on the designs I have come up with. Can anyone offer help, especially around the ones highlighted with ?'s. .... thanks!

Breakers
2 - 25A B Curve 2-pole breaker (heating)
2 - 2A D Curve 2-pole breaker (pumps)
1 - 10A B Curve 2-pole breaker (24VAC transformer)
3 - 6A B Curve 2-pole breaker (aux circuits)

Contactor/SSR
??????? - 5 - 6A 2-pole contactors (all circuits except heating elements)
4 - 25A SSR (24VAC trigger) (heating)

Terminal Strips
??? - 6 Ground Terminals
??? - 18 - 30A terminals
??? - 40 - 10A terminals (solenoids)

Switches
6 - 3P3T switches
Contacts to make the above 3P3T
???? - Potentiometer switches for pump flow control via proportional valve
5 - 3P2T switches
2 - 2P3T switches
???? E-Stop?

Interconnects
Whats the best way to connect the wiring from the solenoids into my control box? I was thinking headphone jacks? The rating would be 1A, 24VAC.

I assume I should put fuses or breakers in line with each of the solenoids? If so, does anyone have a recommendation? Same rating 1A, 24VAC.


Thanks again!! Almost there....

 

[Gabrew]

sick a$$ build!

Love what you did with the pvc piping for the keezer!

 

[TriangleIL]

Bump

Hopefully someone has some advice to the questions two posts above? I think all of the electrical components above are correct, but I'm really unsure about what type of fuses to use (and stay cheap).

 

[ScrapHeap2000]

I am not sure of all the applications you are using, but my solenoids are fused in the box with AGC fuses. You can get these up to 30 amps, just make sure your wiring is sized to match the fuse. Fuses protect the wiring from catching fire, not so much the item they are powering. For my Rims unit, it is a 1000w heating element @240v, so I am only pulling +/- 5 amps. I used these in my panel:

http://www.nteinc.com/fuses/pdf/new_pgs/fuse_holders.pdf

They are cheap from Electronic Surplus, I think I got 10 for $11 with shipping, so...

You could also use inline AGC fuses for your multiple lines, although If it were me, I would fuse a connector block and run wire to each component off of this. Otherwise you will need a huge fuse block. That may be an option since a lot of your stuff is low voltage. Find a junkyard and rob the fuse box from a semi.

For my high amp applications I used quick blow 20 amp fuses something similar to this:

http://www.foodservicewarehouse.com...e-512813&utm_campaign=3Wire&utm_source=nextag

As far as your connectors, I would hardwire them in. I looked at using headphone jacks for my RTD probes and Relays and Solenoid valves, in the end I just wired them in. But them my whole system is CIP, so...

Your system is more advanced then mine. I am still trying to learn to brew and want to automate as I go along. I have the capacity, just need the expertise in what my system requires. The trouble with making your own is that no one worte an operating manual for the dang thing.

I have the same solenoid you have. They get so freaking hot during my run. Just a word of warning.

Just my $.02.

 

[crush]

Hi TriangleIL,

You have the camco 2933 elements. I just ordered 3 of them from Amazon for shipping to Norway. I'll be putting them in 17" kettles, but I didn't check the dimensions. Can you tell me, how long are the elements on these monsters?

Thanks!
Crush

 

[J-Malone]

Finally, some pr0n...

My Little Army

Ferm Temp Controller, Sparge Arm, False Bottom and Belimo "Flow" Valves

I've got a hat but I really need a bath!

The "skull" still in packaging

Had a minor problem while mounting the electrical elements, so had to do emergency surgery and cut the plugs off... will have to wire this up later.

False Bottom Installed

Dual HERMS coils ready for action!

Will be putting all the pieces together this weekend, and then 3-4 weeks of electrical before the first test batch.

Love this build! Where did you get the false bottom?

 

[TriangleIL]

The false bottoms are from Amazon.com. They are the OXO Splatter screen that I disassembled. Took about 10 minutes for each of them to tear off the handle, and then hammer down the connection. Haven't used them yet, so can't say how good they are, but I got the suggestion from another member.

I got mine for $12 during a 4:3 sale. Splatter Screens

 

[J-Malone]

thanks!

 

[hammis]

Wicked sweet build! What's the sparge arm and where did you get it?

 

[lehr]

So how far past 2 grand are you ?
I had never brewed a beer before and started all grain with a rig I built and people called me crazy. Btw those two lines you have curved up in the air you could put strait nipples on those and get rid of the arch it might get air locked like that....My rig

 

[Layne]

Wow, that gonna be a great rig!
I do love me a bilg ole pile of stainless steel parts

 

[dlester]

Sadly, I only found out about the priming issues with the pumps this morning... that's something I haven't figured out quite yet.

There are "no prime" type pumps available to resolve that issue. However, your connections must be air tight so you don't suck air while pumping.

Cheers
David

 

[TriangleIL]

Lerh - I love your rig, it is one of the ones I looked at many times for inspiration. Unfortunately, welding is not in my blood, so I had to go with a wood stand. Love your build though. I am just a shade over 2k now, mostly because of the stupid automation parts, I scored most of the build on the cheaps.

Hammis - The sparge arm is Loc-Line, $11 bucks. It is nice and simple and I love the orange and blue.

dlester - Unfortunately, this information comes too late. That is, OK, however. Thanks for the info.

For my own update, I have been working hard on the programming to get the rig ready, and have an electrician coming over in the next week to get my 60A service installed. I have the face of the control panel cut out, but still need to cut out the plugs/sensors at the bottom of my control panel. I should be able to get the control panel exterior completed this weekend (pending my temp sensor and valve line connectors arrive). Wiring the interior of the control panel will probably take me another week. Then I will be doing my first wet test. Will try and update the thread with some new pictures when time permits. Work has been killing me the past 2-3 months so I have been unable to put in the necessary time to finish this build. I'm commited to finishing in the next 6 weeks now.

Thanks for the comments guys.

 

[lehr]

Yeah and I wish I had your electronic skills..neat stuff you got there !

Pat

 

[MaxOut]

Nice build...Have you got it up and running?

 

[TriangleIL]

Life side tracked my project after the plumbing was complete because of a lack of income/no job. The rig is complete and ready for brewday, just need to get the control panel wired up so I can control the flow of the valves.

and where I am at with the electrical.

I am planning to start working on the brewery again this month, and getting as far as I can with the parts I already have. Anything I require parts wise to finish the build, I will wait until I have a job again. Hoping to at least get to the point of getting things up and running so I can run a test batch or two through this monster by the end of April. I'll update the thread as I make progress towards the goal.