My single tier build

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Depends on what you want to make them out of. You could use cheap galvanized flashing and manufacture a break using 1x4 and clamps. Just clamp the edge about 3/4" in and score the flashing with a utility knife using the 1X4 as a guide. Then bend your break to 90°. Do the same with the other end and then bend the whole thing into a U-shape. Invert it, drill the holes where you want them and attach it to the pump mount. Looks like you'd need a slot in one side to clear the power cable for the pump.

But I don't think cheap galvanized flashing is going to cut it on this beauty...although you could do the same thing with some thin-ish gauge steel, then have it powder coated to match the stand.

This build is wicked sweet!

Thanks man, I think I'll try that. I recall seeing some aluminum or thin steel sheets at Home Depot so maybe I'll pick a couple up and give it a whirl. :mug:
 
very, very, nice build.

I emailed this thread to some friends who are not members but they can't see the pics. Maybe guests can't view images when placed as attachments? I know if they are uploaded to your image gallery in your profile and then placed in your posts everyone can see them. Probably too much work to go back and do that now. Anyway, once again nice build.
 
This thing is a piece of art. Truly beautiful. I am impressed.
 
By far one of my favorite builds of all time! Thanks you so much for making this build thread. I enjoyed looking at all the pics so much and gave me so many ideas.

And you prob spend more time and effort into your mock-up than most people do in the hold rig. haha.

Brew on and have a good one. Thanks again, killer build.
 
by far one of my favorite builds of all time! Thanks you so much for making this build thread. I enjoyed looking at all the pics so much and gave me so many ideas.

And you prob spend more time and effort into your mock-up than most people do in the hold rig. Haha.

Brew on and have a good one. Thanks again, killer build.

+1
 
Wow! Amazing build! Have you fired it up yet, and how do those valves work for controlling the burners? Also, where did you find them? I have been looking for something similar at a reasonable price and they seem hard to find.

Thanks!

Adam
 
Wow! Amazing build! Have you fired it up yet, and how do those valves work for controlling the burners? Also, where did you find them? I have been looking for something similar at a reasonable price and they seem hard to find.

Thanks!

Adam

Thanks man. I got the valves here. They work pretty good but you don't need to open them fully to get a good flame going. I find that the flame maxes out a couple of turns in.
 
Thanks. It is amazing how hard it is to find panel mount valves and how much more expensive they are than standard types.

No problem. I think I'm going to pick up some 1/4" SS needle valves from them for my pilot lines. The brass 1/4 turn valves I got from HD are a little hard to work with. There is only like a 1 degree range where I get get the pilot to light and stay lit.
 
Thanks man. I got the valves here. They work pretty good but you don't need to open them fully to get a good flame going. I find that the flame maxes out a couple of turns in.

Your build is how I'm also doing mine. I've been looking for 1/2" needle valves that are not outrageously expensive. Which model are you using?
 
I.....am confused.

what are the panel-mount needle valves for? i mean, they look bad-ass, but you have the auto valves being controlled from the pid
 
The needle valves give you fine controls on the flame output

They do indeed. I have noticed one bad thing using them though. When I have the needle valve turned down very low while mashing and the PID turns on the solenoid valve, the gas flow is isn't great enough and combustion will actually back up into the burner venturi tube and I'll have no flame coming out the top of the burner. I'll try to take a pic of what I'm talking about. I can easily avoid it by opening up the needle valve more but then I tend to overshoot the mash temp and the valve cycles on and off more. I would prefer to keep the cycling to a minimum. I'm wondering if anyone else has experienced this.
 
This is what I'm experiencing. My guess is that my gas velocity is just too low when the burner is cranked way down. Anyone know of a fix other than opening up the valve a little more?

DSCN0417.jpg

DSCN0418.jpg
 
brandolomite said:
This is what I'm experiencing. My guess is that my gas velocity is just too low when the burner is cranked way down. Anyone know of a fix other than opening up the valve a little more?

<img src="https://www.homebrewtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55885"/>

<img src="https://www.homebrewtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55886"/>

The problem is you need to adjust the air as well. There is too much air in the burner and combustion is ideal there. If you turn the air down with the gas you should help eliminate your problem. An easy fix would be turn the burner up to light then throttle it down. I set my burner at the desired level and let the automation turn it off and on. Turn your burner to the desired max level and adjust the air down until the flame is mostly blue with orange tips. In your picture your air looks to be wide open and you may have some room to adjust it to help your low flame issue. Good luck!
 
After half a dozen or so batches with coolers in a three tier setup I saw Lonnie’s Brutus and decided I had to build one for myself. I incorporated a lot of great ideas from others on this site and I think it turned out pretty good. I have about a dozen batches with this and it works excellent.

Let me know what you think.

Credit where credit is due. There are many others but off the top of my head:
Lonnie Mac
Nicksteck's build
theelectricbrewery.com

SketchUp drawing
View attachment 46692

All said and done
View attachment 46693

Top view with dimensions
View attachment 46694

Side view with dimensions
View attachment 46695

Console dimensions
View attachment 46696

n i c e
 
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