OP
OP
My rig
- Thread starter lehr
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1. Beautiful. Absolutely frigging beautiful. I think I'm going to have dirty dreams about that brewstand.
2. If you keep the same level of craftsmanship, I have little doubt that you'd be able to sell a stainless or mild steel version of this stand for a nice price. No idea whether it'd be worth it for you given materials costs and time invested.
3. If you were selling these and my budget would cover one (my budget wouldn't even cover SHIPPING one of these beasts), you'd have an order from me first...
2. If you keep the same level of craftsmanship, I have little doubt that you'd be able to sell a stainless or mild steel version of this stand for a nice price. No idea whether it'd be worth it for you given materials costs and time invested.
3. If you were selling these and my budget would cover one (my budget wouldn't even cover SHIPPING one of these beasts), you'd have an order from me first...
Brewpastor
Beer, not rocket chemistry
That is a beautiful set-up. It should be fun to use. Thanks for sharing.
Brewpastor
Beer, not rocket chemistry
I hope you have some friends who know what they are doing, so you can really learn how to utilize all of that right away. If you have any questions, let us know!
OP
OP
lehr
Well-Known Member
OP
OP
lehr
Well-Known Member
I've been doing alot of research on brewing amd I know a couple of pro brewers including Joe Short but I'm sure I 'll be on here for advice.
Pat
![Craft A Brew - Safale S-04 Dry Yeast - Fermentis - English Ale Dry Yeast - For English and American Ales and Hard Apple Ciders - Ingredients for Home Brewing - Beer Making Supplies - [1 Pack]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41fVGNh6JfL._SL500_.jpg)
MajorWoody
Well-Known Member
Pat,
You need a little spst momentary pushbutton switch from radio shack, a battery powered bbq ignitor that you can get off ebay for about $20 (get a three burner one so you don't have to mess with wiring the electrodes in series), and then the electrodes themselves. The electrodes typically come with the ignitor kit, it is cheaper that way. You'll need to fab up a little bracket to extend the electrode so that it will arc to the burner body. That works fine for some burners, and for some it will not get the entire burner going. If it will not get the burner going, then you can use the little stainless collector boxes that will come with the kit. Position them near the burner so that they will capture a bit of the gas. The electrode mounts within the collector.
You can hide the ignitor itself, and its battery (typically a 9-volt) somewhere on the frame of the stand. Mine was just a bit too big to fit inside the 2" square tubing itself so I mounted it on the bracket that holds my counterflow chiller coil. You don't see it and it is protected from spills.
Get as low a voltage of ignitor as possible. You only need a tiny spark. You start getting the bigger ones and they will arc right through the insulation of the wiring you use. 18 guage stranded 250 volt wire will be ok. It is often used for rewiring lamps and small electronics. I got mine at Fry's, not sure if Radio Shack sells it. I would not use automotive wire.
Look at the parts in the kits available online and you will immediately see how the electrode parts go together.
Enjoyed the fabrication photos in your gallery. I would love to spend a few days just watching work like that being done. You learn so much by observing and by just knowing what tool is used to achieve a certain bend or shape.
You need a little spst momentary pushbutton switch from radio shack, a battery powered bbq ignitor that you can get off ebay for about $20 (get a three burner one so you don't have to mess with wiring the electrodes in series), and then the electrodes themselves. The electrodes typically come with the ignitor kit, it is cheaper that way. You'll need to fab up a little bracket to extend the electrode so that it will arc to the burner body. That works fine for some burners, and for some it will not get the entire burner going. If it will not get the burner going, then you can use the little stainless collector boxes that will come with the kit. Position them near the burner so that they will capture a bit of the gas. The electrode mounts within the collector.
You can hide the ignitor itself, and its battery (typically a 9-volt) somewhere on the frame of the stand. Mine was just a bit too big to fit inside the 2" square tubing itself so I mounted it on the bracket that holds my counterflow chiller coil. You don't see it and it is protected from spills.
Get as low a voltage of ignitor as possible. You only need a tiny spark. You start getting the bigger ones and they will arc right through the insulation of the wiring you use. 18 guage stranded 250 volt wire will be ok. It is often used for rewiring lamps and small electronics. I got mine at Fry's, not sure if Radio Shack sells it. I would not use automotive wire.
Look at the parts in the kits available online and you will immediately see how the electrode parts go together.
Enjoyed the fabrication photos in your gallery. I would love to spend a few days just watching work like that being done. You learn so much by observing and by just knowing what tool is used to achieve a certain bend or shape.
OP
OP
lehr
Well-Known Member
Hey Woody thaks for the info..Your right about watching someone work I've read my books on metalshaping that still left me wondering but I have several dvds that helped me understand what I was reading.
Pat
Pat
Ok now your just broadcasting my idea
I'm about 2/3 done with my brew trailer. Hoping to pop her cherry on March 7th. Please finish yours so I might steal an idea or two. I will post pics of my inferior workmanship when its complete to another thread.dunleav1
Well-Known Member
You don't see too many 69 Z28 consoles made out of stainless.
Nice.
I have a 69 El Camino with an aluminum diamond plate bed that's pretty cherry but it's nothing compared to that '32 in your gallery!
JD
Great_Neck_Brewer
Well-Known Member
Your rig is so nice I feel as if I'm looking at porn!
Anthony_Lopez
Well-Known Member
I still don't understand the point of this rig if you've never brewed a batch in your life...
OP
OP
lehr
Well-Known Member
It's ok you dont have to understand.
OP
OP
lehr
Well-Known Member
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The understanding is that it appears his main hobby is fabrication. So if he has the smallest chance to fabricate something he'll take it. Even if he doesn't like brewing, he still got the fun of building this rig. That I'm sure he'd have no problem selling for a pretty penny.
OP
OP
lehr
Well-Known Member
Chris300s
Active Member
OP
OP
lehr
Well-Known Member
TommyBoy
Well-Known Member
And I don't understand why you are being so negative to this guy. So far you have doubted his honesty and questioned the need for his build.
Anthony_Lopez
Well-Known Member
I'm not trying to be negative, but at the same time it seems like a lot of commitment to make a rig having never brewed. I'm a big advocate of going simple and inexpensive. I'm not saying that anyone has to take my POV. I'm sure that with the quality of the build he won't have any issues selling it if he decides he doesn't like brewing.
OP
OP
lehr
Well-Known Member
You think he's mad know wait until he see's my stirplate build....Just kidding Tony.
Pat
Absolutely amazing! Nice job I especially like those shinny kegs. Now go brew some beer!! 
I was just thinking the same thing! I can see it now, mirror finished all SS stir plate.Home brewing equipment doesn't have to be ugly. Your rig is definitely a work of art and your fabrication skills are first class. I would bet that your home brew will likely be top notch simply because you are obviously very detail oriented and that is a big asset when brewing.
You really should consider marketing a rig like that. Maybe just selling the basic SS frame and letting the buyer finish it out to suit his particular brewing style. You could avoid some of the product liability issues if you just sold the frame and not a completed rig.
MajorWoody
Well-Known Member
Heat shields are perfect.
You've created what I think is the world's first hot rod brewstand. While I really admire the ingenuity of folks who do a lot of automation on their setups, I like the more "hands on", manual type of setup such as this one.
You could always add the electronic controls later on if you wanted to, as well.
Now get back out to the garage and piss Anthony off by polishing that third keg before you brew your first batch! :rockin:
You've created what I think is the world's first hot rod brewstand. While I really admire the ingenuity of folks who do a lot of automation on their setups, I like the more "hands on", manual type of setup such as this one.
You could always add the electronic controls later on if you wanted to, as well.
Now get back out to the garage and piss Anthony off by polishing that third keg before you brew your first batch! :rockin:
OP
OP
lehr
Well-Known Member
Home brewing equipment doesn't have to be ugly. Your rig is definitely a work of art and your fabrication skills are first class. I would bet that your home brew will likely be top notch simply because you are obviously very detail oriented and that is a big asset when brewing.
You really should consider marketing a rig like that. Maybe just selling the basic SS frame and letting the buyer finish it out to suit his particular brewing style. You could avoid some of the product liability issues if you just sold the frame and not a completed rig.
Thanks catt I work at a medical center also and a lab vendor comp'd me a stirplate and several cases of flasks so I wont be making one.
I wouldnt mind making and selling these it's alot less work than building a car.
Pat
OP
OP
lehr
Well-Known Member
You've got me laughing my ass off...I would like it automated but I'm lost when it comes to that stuff I'dhave to do some horse trading on that deal.
MajorWoody
Well-Known Member
For electronic temperature control, I believe what you would need to do is convert from manual on/off valves to electronically controlled burners with standing pilots (on the HLT and MLT only). Most folks control the burner valves with LOVE (or similar) electronic controllers, either 110v or low voltage. The LOVE controller sends voltage to the gas valve whenever the temp falls below the setpoint you select, and shuts it off at the upper limit point. It uses a probe that you can either dunk into your brew vessel or mount using a bulkhead fitting. You need an individual controller for each vessel that you want to automate.
Check out this thread to see what I am talking about with regard to the automation piece. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/my-brew-rig-build-95433/ . Nicksteck had all the expertise already, being a HVAC contractor. The wiring looks more complicated than it is.
I assume you intend to mash in that uninsulated middle keg. I suspect that consistent heat control may be a challenge, and that you will be doing a lot of manually lighting the burner, running it for a short time, rechecking the temp, etc, repeatedly in order to maintain your target temp prior to mash-out. That might become tiresome. To deal with this, some folks insulate the MLT (it would be a shame to cover up that gorgeous stainless) or set something else up to maintain the temperature, either by a recirculation scheme or by automating the burner somehow.
Others with more knowledge than me will chime in here I suspect...my 3 tier "tree" is manual but I use a 10 gallon round cooler to mash in; with the lid on it holds the temp consistent for an hour no problem so I get to skip the whole heat management thing.
You have a single level setup so I dunno if you really need a sightglass on the HLT. Just use a little engraving tool and put some graduation marks on the inside of that keg. You can just look inside when you're filling it and use the marks to guide you. I made a little sightglass for mine because it is six feet up in the air, no way to see inside without a stool.
I'll post up some photos of the stuff you might want for electronic ignition, in case you are interested in going that route.
Check out this thread to see what I am talking about with regard to the automation piece. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/my-brew-rig-build-95433/ . Nicksteck had all the expertise already, being a HVAC contractor. The wiring looks more complicated than it is.
I assume you intend to mash in that uninsulated middle keg. I suspect that consistent heat control may be a challenge, and that you will be doing a lot of manually lighting the burner, running it for a short time, rechecking the temp, etc, repeatedly in order to maintain your target temp prior to mash-out. That might become tiresome. To deal with this, some folks insulate the MLT (it would be a shame to cover up that gorgeous stainless) or set something else up to maintain the temperature, either by a recirculation scheme or by automating the burner somehow.
Others with more knowledge than me will chime in here I suspect...my 3 tier "tree" is manual but I use a 10 gallon round cooler to mash in; with the lid on it holds the temp consistent for an hour no problem so I get to skip the whole heat management thing.
You have a single level setup so I dunno if you really need a sightglass on the HLT. Just use a little engraving tool and put some graduation marks on the inside of that keg. You can just look inside when you're filling it and use the marks to guide you. I made a little sightglass for mine because it is six feet up in the air, no way to see inside without a stool.
I'll post up some photos of the stuff you might want for electronic ignition, in case you are interested in going that route.
rabeb25
HE of who can not be spoken of.
Hell, You could sign me up right now for a copy of that. I am all electric so no gas plumbing needed, please do include the pump housing and heat shields all around. Just tell me where to sign. Top Notch.
Anthony_Lopez
Well-Known Member
I've never been mad.
Also, I don't really understand the negativity from my original comment on the first page. Saying that I didn't believe this was his first rig and that he wasn't a beginner homebrewer seems like more of a compliment than anything else.
