• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

My parts checklist

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

JONNYROTTEN

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 21, 2009
Messages
4,053
Reaction score
1,334
Location
Long Island
Could you take a look at my parts list.Everything is coming in this week and Id hate to wait around another week waiting for parts.Im chompin at the bit to get brewin. *I could use some help picking out what type of bus bars fuses and alarm I need.(Probably simple but they have different watts/volts and Im just not sure.( I didn't list Jb weld and little home depot connections)

PANEL:
Mypin td4
40A SSR/ large heatsink thermal grease
10/3 wire/ plugs
Aubrins PT100 with disconnects
Emergancy stop button
BREWPOT:
Camco 5500w element
Stainless nut/silicone o ring
weatherproof gang box/2 covers
Dryer cord
This will be a simple "get me goin" setup that I can add to later..Thanks
 
Could you take a look at my parts list.Everything is coming in this week and Id hate to wait around another week waiting for parts.Im chompin at the bit to get brewin. *I could use some help picking out what type of bus bars fuses and alarm I need.(Probably simple but they have different watts/volts and Im just not sure.( I didn't list Jb weld and little home depot connections)

PANEL:
Mypin td4
40A SSR/ large heatsink thermal grease
10/3 wire/ plugs
Aubrins PT100 with disconnects
Emergancy stop button
BREWPOT:
Camco 5500w element
Stainless nut/silicone o ring
weatherproof gang box/2 covers
Dryer cord
This will be a simple "get me goin" setup that I can add to later..Thanks
Well this is what I did if it helps,

You could always go with these quick connect pt100's the cabling is better otherwise they are the same and they are 1/2 the price shipped... I bought 2 of these and use them, they work very well.http://www.ebay.com/itm/380938165742?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I also used this as an emergency stop.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111435445439?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

and this element is a great alternative for the HLT I swapped my camco 4500w ulwd one for this because the base is lead free brass and wont corrode or rust... this way you can leave water in the HLT overnight to dechlorinate or whatever and not deal with rust. if you are sure you are only going to have one pot/element than go with the ULWD camco though.. since this is just lwd

http://www.ebay.com/itm/200909059093?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I used this pot since with electric a thick walled pot is of little benefit ...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/52-QT-Quart.../360904639725?pt=Cookware&hash=item540797c4ed

I use bargainfittings.com for all my hoses, orings stainless fittings and sight glasses. His prices are really reasonable and so is his shipping.

Also I purchased dryer cords and ended up not using them.. they would be OK for the main control panel cord . you will wish you used SO-600v wire for the elements with quick disconnect plugs at the element base for easy removal and cleaning...I added this as well as the quick disconnects for my pt100 sensors on my setup after ruining a sensor by yanking on the cable by accident..
you will want to get sme wire for inside the panel... you need some 10 awg as well as some smaller stuff (18-20awg is fine) I even used 22-24awg for my circuts carring less than 1/2amp...)

and an alarm is nice too! if you expand and add a timer later you can use the same alarm for everything.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1PCS-AC220V...416?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19eabf1000

(here is link to a nice timer with 4 steps allowed for various hop additions)

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008KVV546/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Remember to buy a large enclosure so you dont run out of room for upgrades!
I used this one from the home depot.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-1...-Box-E989R-UPC/100404149?N=5yc1vZbohnZ1z116nv

dont forget a couple of these for the end of your pt100 sensor if you want to get fancy and be able to disconnect them from the control box.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/XLR-3-Pins-...=US_Audio_Cables_Adapters&hash=item4181b26318
 
Last edited by a moderator:
What did you use for a quick disconnect on the element's power?

Well this is what I did if it helps,

You could always go with these quick connect pt100's the cabling is better otherwise they are the same and they are 1/2 the price shipped... I bought 2 of these and use them, they work very well.http://www.ebay.com/itm/380938165742?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I also used this as an emergency stop.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111435445439?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

and this element is a great alternative for the HLT I swapped my camco 4500w ulwd one for this because the base is lead free brass and wont corrode or rust... this way you can leave water in the HLT overnight to dechlorinate or whatever and not deal with rust. if you are sure you are only going to have one pot/element than go with the ULWD camco though.. since this is just lwd

http://www.ebay.com/itm/200909059093?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I used this pot since with electric a thick walled pot is of little benefit ...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/52-QT-Quart.../360904639725?pt=Cookware&hash=item540797c4ed

I use bargainfittings.com for all my hoses, orings stainless fittings and sight glasses. His prices are really reasonable and so is his shipping.

Also I purchased dryer cords and ended up not using them.. they would be OK for the main control panel cord . you will wish you used SO-600v wire for the elements with quick disconnect plugs at the element base for easy removal and cleaning...I added this as well as the quick disconnects for my pt100 sensors on my setup after ruining a sensor by yanking on the cable by accident..
you will want to get sme wire for inside the panel... you need some 10 awg as well as some smaller stuff (18-20awg is fine) I even used 22-24awg for my circuts carring less than 1/2amp...)

and an alarm is nice too! if you expand and add a timer later you can use the same alarm for everything.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1PCS-AC220V...416?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19eabf1000

(here is link to a nice timer with 4 steps allowed for various hop additions)

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008KVV546/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Remember to buy a large enclosure so you dont run out of room for upgrades!
I used this one from the home depot.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-1...-Box-E989R-UPC/100404149?N=5yc1vZbohnZ1z116nv

dont forget a couple of these for the end of your pt100 sensor if you want to get fancy and be able to disconnect them from the control box.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/XLR-3-Pins-...=US_Audio_Cables_Adapters&hash=item4181b26318
 
Last edited by a moderator:
What did you use for a quick disconnect on the element's power?

male/female 220v/20a outlets... i have a 4" chord between the element and the plug... (since I added it later) If i were to do it again I would use a military style connector... I use 4500w so 20a outlets are fine.
 
Thanks augie.The things I have left to buy are the things you got from china.At this point I don't want to want that long for shipping.I thought the alarms were for the temp going out of a set range during mash.Not for an alarm clock on a timer.If its only for timing I will leave it out. Bus bar??
 
Thanks augie.The things I have left to buy are the things you got from china.At this point I don't want to want that long for shipping.I thought the alarms were for the temp going out of a set range during mash.Not for an alarm clock on a timer.If its only for timing I will leave it out. Bus bar?? Also curious on a quick disconnect from the element.Havent seen that anywhere.
its not only for timing... it works for either... you can just use it with the pid as well...
 
Back
Top