midnightbrewing
Active Member
yes, both pilot and thermocouple connected. pilot is functioning, but I have not verified that the thermocouple is functioning properly. how would I do that? and yes, the knob is set to 'on'
midnightbrewing said:yes, both pilot and thermocouple connected. pilot is functioning, but I have not verified that the thermocouple is functioning properly. how would I do that? and yes, the knob is set to 'on'
midnightbrewing said:upon further inspection, the gas valve is for 3.5"WC and my regulator is standard 11" WC. so it looks like I do have too much pressure at the valves and it's locking up. as I look closer, perhaps I need the LP conversion spring kit but I thought the valve was already situated for LP... if the spring conversion isn't the answer, would I just find some in-line 3.5" WC regulators?
ShaKeyJ said:Most gas valves can be converted from natural (3.5) to LP (10 or 11). Seems like that would take care of it.
midnightbrewing said:I'm still stuck after switching out the NG spring to LP on the honeywell VR8200.
should there be an audible click when sending the right voltage to the valve? When I test my bare wire leads, I get 28vac, which is the right voltage, but when I test the voltage across the TH/TR on the unit, I get only 2.7vac on the meter.
usually I have a better nose for this kind of stuff, but I'm so very confused right now.
After scrutinizing this thread for many hours, I came to a revelation that cleared up so many things for me. Radio Shack 8-position jumper. Bump for my dumb ass figuring something out finally. :fro:
Hi, j Awesome build project. I'm doing one, too but not quite so fancy. Although your design has given me pause to reconsider and maybe add the storage component to the build. I love that. What casters did you use and how did you affix them? Thx
I am building single tier 3 burner system with 10" banjos. I've tested boil times using high pressure propane and low pressure propane feeds (via Honeywell gas control) to the burners. I can definitely say the low pressure burners take about 40% longer to boil 20 gals of water compared to the high pressure fed burners. I have the correct orifices installed depending on the pressure and have tweaked the air / gas mixture in every conceivible combinations but the low pressure just does not compete or burn as clean as the high pressure fed burner. I don't know why, perhaps it's the banjos are designed for high pressure in mind?
Anyway I'm going with low pressure to the HLT and MT, with high pressure on BK so I can get a quick and rolling boil going. I don't need burner temp control on BK so don't need the Honeywell gas control there
How many more times you planning on linking your video?
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PLEASE READ!!
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Hopefully that got your attention. ;-)
I get a TON of messages from HBT users about my Brutus 10. I try to reply to all of them, but I have a couple of suggestions to people reading my build thread...
1) Please don't PM me if you think the question is something that can help others. Ask it in the thread instead! I get A LOT of duplicate questions and it would serve the community much more if we get the question/answer into the thread.
2) Please read the entire thread before asking me questions. It's only 20 pages (at this time) and MANY of the questions I get, have already been answered.
If everyone followed these two suggestions, eventually the build thread will be complete and will contain everything you ever wanted to know about building a clone of my system.
This was a really fun build, and I learned a lot in the process. I'm eager to help out wherever I can, so please do ASK AWAY! If you PM me with a question about this build, don't be surprised if I reply with "Ask this in the thread".
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Josh
Not a chance that tubing will bow on that short of a span. It's 1.5" tubing. I used 2" and as thin as I could go and I know it wouldn't buckle. I did put in a center support only because I had thought about mounting both pumps to either side of that vertical support. Instead I kept them on the horizontal cross bar.Josh,
First let me say thank you for the inspiration and GREAT documentation on this project.
I have one question. The frame with not having any center support do you have any issues with the frame bending at all with the full weight of filled keggles?
Thanks
I love this thread and all the info in it. Josh's build and the countless of others after is a great help in building my own.
Couple questions are arising though..
1) Just curious what the advantage of using the IEC inlets and outlets are as opposed to using standard NEMA plugs. I want two inlets for the pumps on my control panel, and I currently already have a March pump with a 3 prong nema plug on it. Should I look into some sort of adapter for my pumps plug or did you guys buy pumps with IEC plugs??
2) Why the 1/4" NPT on the RTD Sensor with a 1/2" to 1/4" NPT reducer on the TEE instead of just getting a 1/2" NPT RTD Sensor.
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