My NEIPA #2

[tobiasbeecher]

Morning All,

I brewed my second attempt at a BIAB NEIPA yesterday and was wondering if anyone could pick holes in my method / procedure?

Title: NEIPA attempt #2
Brew Method: BIAB
Boil Time: 45 min
Batch Size: 5 L (fermentor volume)
Boil Size: 7 L
No Sparge

FERMENTABLES:
500 g - United Kingdom - Golden Promise
450 g - United Kingdom - Crisp Pale Ale Malt
50 g - United Kingdom - Pale Crystal Malt
250 g - Flaked Oats (20%)

HOPS:
20 g - Citra, Type: Pellet, Use: Flame out (then left them in)
15 g - Simcoe, Type: Pellet, Use: When pitching yeast
20 g - El Dorado, Type: Pellet, Use: Day 1
20 g - Mosiac, Type: Pellet, Use: Day 3

MASH GUIDELINES:
Temp: 66-71 C (150-160 F), Time: 45 min

WATER TREATMENT (for the final 5L):
Tesco Ashbeck Mineral Water
2.8ml CRS/AMS
2.0g DLS

YEAST:
WLP007
Starter: Yes

I used WLP007 as I harvested and cleaned it from my last brew. It was actively fermenting that evening as I made a starter for it.

This is my first time using water treatments and mineral water.

I am still learning all grain, so a couple of questions:
1: I added hops at flameout and left them in there permanently. Is that OK? Same with the dry hopping, they will be in there until the end.
2: Is the yeast selection OK for this style or should I look to get one of the more popular choices?
3: Mash temperature was not consistent. It never dropped below 150F, but it spent more time at 160F. Is that OK?

Any other comments or suggestions would be good. Thanks!

 

[whovous]

1. The hops will settle. Some folks prefer to bag and remove them, but there is no problem leaving them in. I do both, sometimes even in the same brew.
2. Some folks have had good results with WLP007 in their NEIPAs.
3. 160 is mashing pretty high. Mashing high produces sweeter beers and mashing low makes them drier.

All that said, I do not understand your hop schedule at all. Not the hop choices, they are all just fine. It is the timing I do not get.

 

[tobiasbeecher]

What is off with the timing? I read, do not add any early on in the boil as we dont need the bittering aspect.

I also read that dry hopping needs to be 1-3 days, so that the hops can biotransform with the yeast.

My mash temp - so, the higher will only make it sweeter? Will it still be drinkable? I do prefer sweeter, to drier, so might I be ok? What happens if I mashed at 165? or 170?

Thanks,

 

[Morrey]

To save lots of time on your part, the attached recipe and popular thread is ideal for my tastes. Of course it may not be for yours but post #1418 is what I have modeled my efforts after. You are certainly on the right track and your recipe will make a great beer. My only suggestion is to review the amount of hops you'll be using as they seem somewhat light compared to the hop bill I use, but you'll scale to your batch size accordingly as my is 5.5G. Just a suggestion for your consideration. Its mighty easy to add more hops as a dry hop addition.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=568046

My latest NE IPA as it was carbing up.

 

[IslandLizard]

What @whovous said ^

You've got ~10% of light crystal, that should leave plenty of body/sweetness. Mashing above 158 becomes tricky, and is not recommended unless you brew Milds or other low gravity beers. A lower attenuating, low flocculating yeast (WY1318, or any of the "Conan" strains) is part of the NEIPA style, and will keep the beer sweeter. Read up on how others successfully brew NEIPAs, what they use, and how and when they dry hop.

The mash enzymes that convert starch to sugars start to (irreversibly) denature at higher temps, 162F being probably the very upper limit for mashing. 168-170F is mashout range, when held there for 10' the enzymes are done.

For NEIPAs you start dry hopping when there's still some fermentation going on (say 10-30% left to go), but not at yeast pitching time, and likely not even after 1 day.

 

[Morrey]

WY1318, or any of the "Conan" strains) is part of the NEIPA style, and will keep the beer sweeter.

+1 on the 1318...something to keep in mind for your next brew day. I have tried a few others but this one seems to be the ticket.

 

[whovous]

What is off with the timing? I read, do not add any early on in the boil as we dont need the bittering aspect.

I also read that dry hopping needs to be 1-3 days, so that the hops can biotransform with the yeast.

My mash temp - so, the higher will only make it sweeter? Will it still be drinkable? I do prefer sweeter, to drier, so might I be ok? What happens if I mashed at 165? or 170?

Thanks,

First, let me say I am not an expert on any of this, just someone who has learned some things he may have to unlearn some day. I may be misreading your timing, but here goes:

1) You used Citra as a bittering hop. I think that makes sense only if you are doing a SMASH brew and have only one hop to work with. Citra is a flavor and aroma hop which should be added late or after the boil. Some think Citra can smell like cat pee when used early in the boil.

2) I do not understand why you pitch each variety of hop once and only once. As a random example, I brewed an IPA last night. I pitched Mosaic and Simcoe with 20 minutes left in the boil, and again in a whirlpool at 170F post-boil. I will pitch them again when fermentation is nearly complete (I'd prefer to wait for fermentation to fully complete, but am leaving the country too soon to permit that).

3) I have never heard of pitching hops at the same time you pitch yeast. I've not discussed this with my friend Google, but I have not heard of it.

4) Typically, dry hopping comes after the primary fermentation is pretty much complete. NEIPAs change this up a bit by including a dry hop charge late in the primary fermentation process, but before the end of same. Your Mosaic on Day 3 is the only one which might meet that criteria.

Again, I am not an expert, but those timings do not comport with the little that I know. If you are on to something here, I am sure that others will correct me. If so, it won't be the first nor the last mistake I make on this forum.

 

[Morrey]

Whovous, I think your review is 100% spot on!

Like Island Lizard and you both say, the first addition dry hop in primary is well suited when there are but a few gravity points left to go. On my last NEIPA where the OG was 1.050, I primary dry hopped at 1.020 and finished at 1.012 with 1318 yeast. It helps to know how your yeast performs to know when to do the primary dry hop addition. This fits into the "range" of finishing that Island Lizard stated.

Not intending to be on a soap box, I have been completely happy using CO2 based CTZ extract for my bittering addition at 60. In my opinion, this NE IPA will benefit from a 60 min FWH addition of some sort to give a fullness to the beer although late hops and whirlpool seals the deal for sure. I tried one w/o a 60 min bittering and realized this was not a good choice.

 

[whovous]

I used my first CO2 extract last night and I can tell the difference in the bittering already. Smoooooth!

 

[Morrey]

I used my first CO2 extract last night and I can tell the difference in the bittering already. Smoooooth!

I liked it so much I ordered the large can, bought some empty syringes and made up a bunch of my own hop shots. I use them for everything including light beers in the 18 IBU range. One mL gives me 9 IBU and I finish off with traditional flavor and aroma hops near end of boil to meet my IBU goal. Great stuff!

 

[tobiasbeecher]

Thanks for all of the feedback. I must have totally mis-understood the hop addition times while reading on the style.

I will adjust what remains, to first dry hop at 7 days in. That will be over 50% fermented. I will then second dry hop once the day before bottling.

My other possible mistake was mashing too high... though that is just me having to deal with my limited equipment.

As a follow up... I had a tiny bit left over so stuck it in a clear bottle to ferment. Its a very strange colour! Here it is:
http://imgur.com/GYLrnEU

My question: will it be possibly to clean this yeast for re-use? The brew is highly contaminated with hops and trub from the mash. If so... will it be a case of a multi-stage clean? Each time with a DME starter, or should I flush with clean water?

Thanks

 

[tobiasbeecher]

One question regarding the fermentation of this style. I pitched the starter, that same evening it was buzzing with activity. 24 hours later (last night) it was much the same. This morning, 36 hours later, it has tailed off a great extent. Obviously still active, just nowhere near as ferocious as it was.

Typically when I brew, it starts active and then very gradually tails off toward the end. This one is the only one to not have done that.

Is that typical for this brew style? Or need I not worry?

 

[Morrey]

Given proper temperatures and adequate food source, the speed of fermentation is usually due to the yeast strain itself more than the wort it is working in. For my typical NE IPA's I use a Conan strain 1318. This yeast is a speed demon and can finish in 4 days or less. Other less aggressive strains can take twice as long.

I consider it important to know how your yeast will behave so you can add the first dry hop into primary shortly before the yeast finishes. In my case, I add dry hop #1 in primary on day 3, so again, it is helpful to know characteristics of the yeast you are working with.

 

[h22lude]

2) I do not understand why you pitch each variety of hop once and only once. As a random example, I brewed an IPA last night. I pitched Mosaic and Simcoe with 20 minutes left in the boil, and again in a whirlpool at 170F post-boil. I will pitch them again when fermentation is nearly complete (I'd prefer to wait for fermentation to fully complete, but am leaving the country too soon to permit that).

3) I have never heard of pitching hops at the same time you pitch yeast. I've not discussed this with my friend Google, but I have not heard of it.

4) Typically, dry hopping comes after the primary fermentation is pretty much complete. NEIPAs change this up a bit by including a dry hop charge late in the primary fermentation process, but before the end of same. Your Mosaic on Day 3 is the only one which might meet that criteria.

2) Nothing wrong with pitching one hop at a time. I've made plenty of great beers this way.

3) Brulosopher just did an xBmt with this and people couldn't tell the difference but I do think the experiment was flawed a little so I took the results with a grain of salt.

4) I dry hop my NEIPAs 3 days after pitching. You want to dry hop your first addition at high krausen.

 

[Morrey]

I will say this and I absolutely mean no disrespect what so ever to the OP. I, and probably many other brewers, consider this NE IPA to be a very advanced beer to tackle. I am saying this for two reasons...if your efforts turn out less than stellar, no biggie and just get back in there and learn from the mistakes. If your efforts turn out to be good, you have pulled off a difficult brew and you virtually jumped two or three paygrades in your brewing prowess. None the less, your experience level will benefit. Just don't expect too much and become deflated if this beer isn't commercial quality...just yet.

 

[h22lude]

I will say this and I absolutely mean no disrespect what so ever to the OP. I, and probably many other brewers, consider this NE IPA to be a very advanced beer to tackle. I am saying this for two reasons...if your efforts turn out less than stellar, no biggie and just get back in there and learn from the mistakes. If your efforts turn out to be good, you have pulled off a difficult brew and you virtually jumped two or three paygrades in your brewing prowess. None the less, your experience level will benefit. Just don't expect too much and become deflated if this beer isn't commercial quality...just yet.

I can understand what you are saying but there really isn't anything different than other beers. Dry hopping at 3 days or 7 days is still dry hopping. Whirlpool additions may be new to some but it isn't tricky. Water profile is a little different but if someone is doing AG, they should already know a little about water to begin with.

I will say I find it harder to get a NEIPA to taste the way I want than any other style. Still comes out really good just may not be as fruity as I want or as creamy as I hoped.

 

[tobiasbeecher]

I will say this and I absolutely mean no disrespect what so ever to the OP. I, and probably many other brewers, consider this NE IPA to be a very advanced beer to tackle. I am saying this for two reasons...if your efforts turn out less than stellar, no biggie and just get back in there and learn from the mistakes. If your efforts turn out to be good, you have pulled off a difficult brew and you virtually jumped two or three paygrades in your brewing prowess. None the less, your experience level will benefit. Just don't expect too much and become deflated if this beer isn't commercial quality...just yet.

Spot on. I have already tried this style, failed miserably. I am very much focused on trying to get it to work - hence this thread. I need as much criticism as possible in order to get it right.

I will no doubt create another thread for the next attempt too! There have got to be things that I do that are incorrect, else it would end up perfect.

 

[JJ900]

OP I may have missed it but are you controlling fermentation temp? Keeping it under 70F really helps.

 

[Morrey]

Spot on. I have already tried this style, failed miserably. I am very much focused on trying to get it to work - hence this thread. I need as much criticism as possible in order to get it right.

I will no doubt create another thread for the next attempt too! There have got to be things that I do that are incorrect, else it would end up perfect.

HBT is a great place to solicit feedback as you are trying to learn. Most folks here are certainly willing to help you learn and become skilled as a home brewer since it makes for a strong community supported by retailers.

While h22lude may feel execution is about like any other beer, there is certainly quite a bit going on with the mastery of this particular style. Just the hop choices alone are daunting, yeast selections, water management inc salts balancing, grain selection to inc mouthfeel.....and the list goes on. Just saying there is not only quite a bit to juggle while brewing, but the knowledge level leading into this brew is involved.

You are a great sport and make no bones about asking for suggestions. Collectively, we are here to help you make your good beers even better!

 

[Morrey]

I will say I find it harder to get a NEIPA to taste the way I want than any other style. Still comes out really good just may not be as fruity as I want or as creamy as I hoped.

100% agreed to get this beer exactly as targeted is a heck of a challenge. Takes some trial and error.

Since you live in the region where NE IPA's were made known, what commercial brewery would you pick to suggest for the best NE IPA? Commercially produced NE IPA beers are virtually unavailable in SC, so I may try searching out a suggested beer if you have a favorite.

 

[h22lude]

HBT is a great place to solicit feedback as you are trying to learn. Most folks here are certainly willing to help you learn and become skilled as a home brewer since it makes for a strong community supported by retailers.

While h22lude may feel execution is about like any other beer, there is certainly quite a bit going on with the mastery of this particular style. Just the hop choices alone are daunting, yeast selections, water management inc salts balancing, grain selection to inc mouthfeel.....and the list goes on. Just saying there is not only quite a bit to juggle while brewing, but the knowledge level leading into this brew is involved.

You are a great sport and make no bones about asking for suggestions. Collectively, we are here to help you make your good beers even better!

Recipe formulation is another beast altogether. I would suggest OP use a recipe on here or a clone from the net before trying to create one from scratch.

100% agreed to get this beer exactly as targeted is a heck of a challenge. Takes some trial and error.

Since you live in the region where NE IPA's were made known, what commercial brewery would you pick to suggest for the best NE IPA? Commercially produced NE IPA beers are virtually unavailable in SC, so I may try searching out a suggested beer if you have a favorite.

As you can imagine, there are a lot and everyone has their favorite. Alchemist is one of the original NEIPA breweries. Heady Topper is very good but in my opinion not even top 5 for me. Lawson's Finest Liquids is another one with Sip of Sunshine. I like that more than Heady Topper. But my two favorite breweries are Trillium and Tree House. They are both only a few years old but I think are the most well known NEIPA breweries. They both have top ranked beers on Beer Advocate. Last time I checked Tree House had at least 4 or 5 top 25 beers and the number 1 beer overall was Good Morning which is their stout brewed with maple syrup. I live 30 minutes from Trillium and an hour from Tree House. Trillium's new location is walk in and walk out. Tree House you may be in line for over an hour and they have very small limits. Tomorrow they have cans only. Two beer styles and both are 6 per person. Trillium I can walk in and buy a case of every beer and walk out. The beers themselves they are about even but overall I like Trillium more just for the convenience and amount of beers I can take home.

 

[Morrey]

Recipe formulation is another beast altogether. I would suggest OP use a recipe on here or a clone from the net before trying to create one from scratch.


As you can imagine, there are a lot and everyone has their favorite. Alchemist is one of the original NEIPA breweries. Heady Topper is very good but in my opinion not even top 5 for me. Lawson's Finest Liquids is another one with Sip of Sunshine. I like that more than Heady Topper. But my two favorite breweries are Trillium and Tree House. They are both only a few years old but I think are the most well known NEIPA breweries. They both have top ranked beers on Beer Advocate. Last time I checked Tree House had at least 4 or 5 top 25 beers and the number 1 beer overall was Good Morning which is their stout brewed with maple syrup. I live 30 minutes from Trillium and an hour from Tree House. Trillium's new location is walk in and walk out. Tree House you may be in line for over an hour and they have very small limits. Tomorrow they have cans only. Two beer styles and both are 6 per person. Trillium I can walk in and buy a case of every beer and walk out. The beers themselves they are about even but overall I like Trillium more just for the convenience and amount of beers I can take home.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost.php?p=7314273&postcount=1

I modeled my original efforts after Braufessor's post linked here. To start from scratch would be a very difficult task. Once I got the recipe and process down, I then started playing with this and that. In fact I used Brettanomyces Clausenii for my primary yeast in my last brew and got great flavors.


I have heard of both Trillium and Tree House. I'd like to try a commercial version to see how mine compares. Maybe the Trillium would be a pick. If you like any beers produced in SC as in Westbrook Brewery in Charleston, maybe we could swap a beer. I am going to Wicked Weed in Asheville NC next month, so that may be something you'd like as well.

Similar to this was 3 Floyds Gumball Head Hoppy Wheat. I made multiple batches before I finally got my hands on one. It was good to compare something I was cloning to the real deal.

 

[h22lude]

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost.php?p=7314273&postcount=1

I modeled my original efforts after Braufessor's post linked here. To start from scratch would be a very difficult task. Once I got the recipe and process down, I then started playing with this and that. In fact I used Brettanomyces Clausenii for my primary yeast in my last brew and got great flavors.


I have heard of both Trillium and Tree House. I'd like to try a commercial version to see how mine compares. Maybe the Trillium would be a pick. If you like any beers produced in SC as in Westbrook Brewery in Charleston, maybe we could swap a beer. I am going to Wicked Weed in Asheville NC next month, so that may be something you'd like as well.

Similar to this was 3 Floyds Gumball Head Hoppy Wheat. I made multiple batches before I finally got my hands on one. It was good to compare something I was cloning to the real deal.

You can't go wrong with either. I'd be willing to trade. I probably won't be getting up to Trillium for another few weeks but when I do I'll send you a PM. I don't know anything down in SC so anything you like I'll try. I can get Wicked Weed here so I'd be interested in something that stays local.

Tasting the commercial version of the clone is a lot of fun. Especially when you realize you have been making a close clone.

 

[Morrey]

You can't go wrong with either. I'd be willing to trade. I probably won't be getting up to Trillium for another few weeks but when I do I'll send you a PM. I don't know anything down in SC so anything you like I'll try. I can get Wicked Weed here so I'd be interested in something that stays local.

Tasting the commercial version of the clone is a lot of fun. Especially when you realize you have been making a close clone.

Just let me know your taste preferences in a beer or two and Westbrook in SC is hard to beat. No hurry, anytime is fine.

When I tried the 3 Floyds "real deal" I was happy with the way mine was coming out. Mine seemed fresher and more vibrant probably due to various shipping and handling factors out of the breweries control. All part of what makes home brewing appeal to me.

Thanks!

 

[tobiasbeecher]

OP I may have missed it but are you controlling fermentation temp? Keeping it under 70F really helps.

The fermentation temperature is incredibly stable, the space fluctuates less than a degree. But it is slightly high... 71.6F.

I thought it would be better to be rock solid stable and slightly high, than deviate more but lower.

What do you think? I have an area where it will be fluctuating 64-68...

 

[Morrey]

The fermentation temperature is incredibly stable, the space fluctuates less than a degree. But it is slightly high... 71.6F.

I thought it would be better to be rock solid stable and slightly high, than deviate more but lower.

What do you think? I have an area where it will be fluctuating 64-68...

Have you ever looked at wort in a clear fermenter during fermentation? If so, you note all kinds of particles rolling around almost like it is boiling inside. This is typical of fermentation and exothermic heat is being generated by active yeast inside this wort.

If we stick on one of those adhesive therm strips, it gives us a reading but maybe not as accurate as we think. True it is reading the wort, but its also influenced by ambient temps surrounding the fermenter. The center of the wort is the place to take a true reading, and the temps inside your fermenter during high krausen can be several degrees above ambient.

The most reliable way to read the true wort temp is with a probe inside a thermowell suspended in the wort. If this is not avail, you can generally be safe in thinking the wort at high krausen is 5F or higher than the room you have it sitting in. By adding 5F to 71.6F, you are fermenting at 76.6F (possibly more) which is pretty high by most ale yeast standards. Food for thought.....

 

[tobiasbeecher]

Very good point, I hadn't considered heat given off by the process itself. I was measuring ambient air temperature using a food grade instant read thermometer (that I use for smoking meats).

I have relocated the fermenting vessels to the kitchen where temperature is always 64-68. One of them is indeed clear (a 1 litre bottle) as I had a bit of wort left over. Quite interesting to watch the process.

I am actually tempted to brew another this weekend. My mistakes this time round, although not huge, may not give me the best results. If I do another batch, I could compare the 2, too.

Yeah, think I will do that! Thanks.

 

[Morrey]

Very good point, I hadn't considered heat given off by the process itself. I was measuring ambient air temperature using a food grade instant read thermometer (that I use for smoking meats).

I have relocated the fermenting vessels to the kitchen where temperature is always 64-68. One of them is indeed clear (a 1 litre bottle) as I had a bit of wort left over. Quite interesting to watch the process.

I am actually tempted to brew another this weekend. My mistakes this time round, although not huge, may not give me the best results. If I do another batch, I could compare the 2, too.

Yeah, think I will do that! Thanks.

Yes, the yeast as it is converting sugars to CO2 and alcohol puts on quite a show. All that activity in the fermenter surprises some folks into thinking something may be wrong...LOL.

A friend is learning brewing and is in the process of getting proper equipment. I suggested for him to consider the two biggies in the brewing process...Sanitation and Temp Control. W/o these two aspects nailed down, inconsistencies or plain out failures are going to occur.

He plans to buy a chest freezer and an Inkbird when he can find the time and get his finances lined up. In the meantime he is facing the same issues with temp control as you. He runs his a/c at a constant 72F, so once again, his real ferm temp is probably 77F inside the fermenter. I suggested he fill up his guest bathtub with cool water, set up the fermenter so the water goes up the sides as much as possible, then drape towels over the top so water wicks up the towels. He then put a box fan on low blowing on the fermenter to cause the water to evaporate on the towels. I suppose this is some sort of poor man's swamp cooler but this was an easy fix with things he had on hand until he can get a chest freezer.

I admire your thoughts to get right back in there and keep trying. That's exactly what it takes to get good, and mistakes are usually the best way to learn. If you ever find a brewer who tells you he/she has never made a bad beer, they are either a darn good BS'er or they haven't brewed many beers.

 

[tobiasbeecher]

I had never come across that inkbird before, looks pretty good and well priced. Thanks!

 

[Morrey]

I had never come across that inkbird before, looks pretty good and well priced. Thanks!

Oh yeah, the Inkbird 308 is the bomb for $30. Plug your freezer into that, set the temp (and parameters) and you are golden. The Inkbird acts as an on/off switch with feedback from a probe that senses the temp.

In the winter, at times you may need heat which the Inkbird handles as well as cooling. I use a heat belt mainly, so if the beer gets too cool, the Inkbird has a way to keep it dialed in to your set temp.

 

[dstockwell]

I have been completely happy using CO2 based CTZ extract for my bittering addition at 60.

Is there a reliable calculator or spreadsheet to input different batch sizes when using CO2 hops.

 

[Morrey]

Is there a reliable calculator or spreadsheet to input different batch sizes when using CO2 hops.

The extract I bought came from Yakima Valley so the published AA rating of this extract is 61.1 AA%. I use BeerSmith and this program has a drop down box for CO2 based extracts so I put in the AA and it tells me what to use.

But that's not totally needed as we know that 1 mL of this extract offers 9 IBU's of bittering potential per 5.5G wort or batch size. You can do that calc manually for any batch size to scale, or at least I know BeerSmith has provisions to calc for us.

I have started using this extract for my 60 min additions since it reduces vegetal matter, it is very smooth and eliminates the need to have a variety of bittering hops stored.

 

[dstockwell]

Thanks, I use Brewers friend and they don't have that yet. But I did find an excel spreadsheet that may work out.

 

[tobiasbeecher]

First dry hop last night, was 3 days in. Fermentation is still steadily slow.

 

[tobiasbeecher]

I started another batch yesterday:

Title: NEIPA attempt #3
Brew Method: BIAB
Boil Time: 50 min
Batch Size: 5 L (fermentor volume)
Boil Size: 7 L
No Sparge

FERMENTABLES:
500 g - United Kingdom - Pale Malt
450 g - United Kingdom - Crisp Pale Ale Malt
50 g - United Kingdom - Caramalt
250 g - Flaked Oats (20%)

HOPS:
20 g - Citra, Type: Pellet, Use: 10 min before FO, then left in
20 g - Simcoe, Type: Pellet, Use: FO, then left in
20 g - Undecided, but dry hop day 3
20 g - Undecided, but dry hop day before bottling

MASH GUIDELINES:
Temp: 66-71 C (150-160 F), Time: 45 min

WATER TREATMENT (for the final 5L):
Tesco Ashbeck Mineral Water
1 tsp CaCl

YEAST:
WLP007
Starter: Yes


Question 1: During the mash, the temps were 154 for about 20 mins. Then because it was so stable, I ignored it for 10 mins. In that time, it hit 161, then I took it off the heat and then it cooled to 152 and then I held it there. Will the brief exposure to higher heat have "killed" the grains in terms of sugar extraction, therefore any time spent after the elevated temp, is wasted, or should it be OK? Just during the elevated temp, it wasn't releasing as much?

Question 2: I shouldn't really have brewed again this weekend. Extreme heatwave here, even my coolest spot is
now 24C (75F) ambient temp in the garage! So... the question is, will the elevated temp of yeast give any off flavours at all? I haven't got setup with any fermenting vessel temperature control, yet, so I am stuck. It is fermenting nicely... just I am concerned about off flavours.

So... I am slightly happier with my mash this time but still equally unhappy with fermenting temps! Should I be concerned?

Thanks!

 

[dstockwell]

I liked it so much I ordered the large can, bought some empty syringes and made up a bunch of my own hop shots. I use them for everything including light beers in the 18 IBU range. One mL gives me 9 IBU and I finish off with traditional flavor and aroma hops near end of boil to meet my IBU goal. Great stuff!

Morrey, do you store these refrigerated after filling the syringes. Since I brew 3G batches almost weekly it would take some time for me to use up the can. I figured using 3ML syringes.

 

[Morrey]

Morrey, do you store these refrigerated after filling the syringes. Since I brew 3G batches almost weekly it would take some time for me to use up the can. I figured using 3ML syringes.

Yes I refrigerate in a plastic storage container. I talked to Yakima and the refrigerated hop shots will last quite some time if there is no O2 exposure, hence the need to put into a syringe w/o any headspace.

I did 5mL syringes and think I filled maybe 20 of them. 3 mL would fill 33, and if I remember correctly, the can is 100 mL. It is a large can but there is only about an inch or two of extract in it. I usually add 1 to 3 mL of extract, so I add what I need and recap the syringe if any is left.

I floated the can in a sink of warm water to loosen it up as this stuff is really thicker than molasses. It was kind of messy at first but I got the hang of it by the time I was done...lol. Hint: Wear disposable gloves and have a few clean up paper towels handy.

I leave the hop shot out by the warm mash kettle or near the burner so it loosens up out the fridge. Then add what you need right into he boil and stir. The smoothness of the bittering component is worth a try!

 

[Morrey]

Question 1: During the mash, the temps were 154 for about 20 mins. Then because it was so stable, I ignored it for 10 mins. In that time, it hit 161, then I took it off the heat and then it cooled to 152 and then I held it there. Will the brief exposure to higher heat have "killed" the grains in terms of sugar extraction, therefore any time spent after the elevated temp, is wasted, or should it be OK? Just during the elevated temp, it wasn't releasing as much?

Question 2: I shouldn't really have brewed again this weekend. Extreme heatwave here, even my coolest spot is
now 24C (75F) ambient temp in the garage! So... the question is, will the elevated temp of yeast give any off flavours at all? I haven't got setup with any fermenting vessel temperature control, yet, so I am stuck. It is fermenting nicely... just I am concerned about off flavours.

So... I am slightly happier with my mash this time but still equally unhappy with fermenting temps! Should I be concerned?

Thanks!

I have done the heat (too hot) deal during mash about the same as you described. Mine turned out fine so I don't think your temps (they were not that high) will have denatured the enzymes.

You'll get better beer if you don't let ferm temps run away on you. Remember you have internal heat generated by fermentation which can make the wort 5 or more degrees higher than ambient. Now you are fermenting at 80F plus.

Do you have a large plastic vessel you can fill with water and sit the fermenter in? Even if you drape some towels over the fermenter and let it wick water up it will help some. A fan blowing on the towels will help too.

Temp control is a PITA w/o some type of system to help control it.

 

[tobiasbeecher]

As soon as I realised the fementation temperature got out of hand, I stuck the lot in the fridge. I don't have any auto control of the fridge (yet) which is why I hadn't done it sooner. 6 hours, it cooled down to 66F (19C).

I need the inkbird, that much is clear. Where I live, fermentation temperature has never been a problem before until now.