My insane 25 Gal, 100 Percent Hard Plumbed Tri-Clover, Automated Tippy Build

[kickflip_mj]

Paint? I just assumed you were going to chrome plate the frame lol

Hahaha how insane would that look! Lol

 

[Jaybird]

Hahaha how insane would that look! Lol

We know your now pondering it! LOL

Cheers
Jay

 

[kickflip_mj]

Haha that may be pretty sweet! But then it's gonna cost at least 800

 

[1fast636]

Just get it zinc dipped they have a special one that looks just like chrome but is a **** ton cheaper then chrome. We get it done at work all the time ill try and snap a pic Monday of the final product. Oh and this build is awesome too by the way loving all the tri clap work can't wait to see the final product

 

[1fast636]

Dam I even used cr@p lol oh well

 

[kevink]

Just get it ceramic coated. It'll be much cheaper than chrome and it seems like everyone is doing it these days. The problem with any of these non-paint coatings is that you can forget about making any modifications to the frame which require welding unless you want to get it re-coated. I would go with paint for that reason.

 

[kickflip_mj]

What do you think that would run?

 

[kevink]

I don't know what your stand would cost, but I think it's usually a few hundred dollars for a set of full length headers for a V8. A good company should be able to give you an estimate if you give them dimensions and photos. Call around!

 

[Bensiff]

I'm spraying my setup with automotive paint, which isn't exactly cheap either but looks great. However, with your burners something like ceramic would be ideal as it can handle the heat.

 

[kickflip_mj]

Ceramic coating will cost probably 300+,maybe just get some vht header paint?

 

[kevink]

If you think you'll never modify it, I would go with ceramic coating. It will look awesome and should hold up near your burners. Ask them what kind of heat it can withstand. If you think you might weld on it in the future, definitely go with paint. I'm not sure how header paint will hold up near your burners, but I am sure that it absolutely does not hold up on headers!

 

[kickflip_mj]

If you think you'll never modify it, I would go with ceramic coating. It will look awesome and should hold up near your burners. Ask them what kind of heat it can withstand. If you think you might weld on it in the future, definitely go with paint. I'm not sure how header paint will hold up near your burners, but I am sure that it absolutely does not hold up on headers!

That's definitely good advice, I should be ok and not have to weld in the stand ever again, when I'm done.

 

[Monster Mash]

I used BBQ paint and touch it up as needed. Heat is one problem but nothing stands up to flames very well...

 

[Stealthcruiser]

I don't know what your stand would cost, but I think it's usually a few hundred dollars for a set of full length headers for a V8. A good company should be able to give you an estimate if you give them dimensions and photos. Call around!

Don't ceramic coat it unless you wish to polish it out by hand..............

The automotive headers are polished in a vibratory polisher with ceramic media.

Your brew rig won't fit or rotate in the vibratory..............

 

[kickflip_mj]

Thank you guys for your comments so far. I want to get this thing done, I can't wait to get home from Cabo to put some work in! I'm going to soak it in for the last day

 

[Brewmech]

How much have you got into this thing if I might ask?

 

[kickflip_mj]

I haven't actually checked how much it has been costing me, If i took a wild guess, I would say approaching 4k

 

[ScubaSteve]

Nice build! I have no doubt that you are at least pushing 600 lbs....based on other rig builds and some heavy machinery that I own. Consider static versus dynamic weight ratings when you deal with casters....if you move something under load it will be subjected to higher stresses versus just sitting there. But you should be fine...if you're really worried about it just weld some nuts into the bottom of the frame and make levelling feet...with a 1/2" threaded rod, you should be in good shape.

P.s....did you see that they make the chillzilla/convolutus in stainless?

 

[peggjam]

I like it. Now, when you gonna start selling them?

 

[kerklein2]

Nice build! I have no doubt that you are at least pushing 600 lbs....based on other rig builds and some heavy machinery that I own. Consider static versus dynamic weight ratings when you deal with casters....if you move something under load it will be subjected to higher stresses versus just sitting there. But you should be fine...if you're really worried about it just weld some nuts into the bottom of the frame and make levelling feet...with a 1/2" threaded rod, you should be in good shape.

P.s....did you see that they make the chillzilla/convolutus in stainless?

Where did you see said stainless chillers?

 

[marcb]

Where did you see said stainless chillers?

Williams brewing. They are out of stock for another month. Though!

 

[jstebell]

You can get the Stainless CFC from Williamsbrewing.com. They are currently out if stock tho.

 

[SS_Brewing_Co]

So did you weld ferrules on the "T"s or did you Drill out TC caps and fuse the inside?

 

[kickflip_mj]

I like it. Now, when you gonna start selling them?

This has been something I have been thinking about getting into for sure. But if I do it I'm going to have to hire a welder. I just don't have the time to be efficient.

 

[kickflip_mj]

I liked the stainless chiller, but I always feel like every brewery needs some copper. Supposedly it's good for the yeast. (Don't quote me, it's what I have read on multiple occasions)

So did you weld ferrules on the "T"s or did you Drill out TC caps and fuse the inside?

Most of my hard plumbing is TC encaps fusion welded. It's sanitary, and a lot easier to do then actually welding pipe.

 

[Bookworm]

I wouldn't say I'm a bad welder, but the bottoms are pretty tough. Here is a T fitting I welded.

View attachment 124715

That weld almost looks like you are welding stainless with mild steel rod or not using enough cover gas. Or maybe it is just the lighting.

 

[kickflip_mj]

I think it's the lighting, they have the right color in person. Maybe could be a tad lighter. I'm running , gas lens, 2% therorated tungsten electrode. I have also been cleaning them up with a scotch bright wheel.

 

[Bookworm]

I think it's the lighting, they have the right color in person. Maybe could be a tad lighter. I'm running , gas lens, 2% therorated tungsten electrode. I have also been cleaning them up with a scotch bright wheel.

Sounds good. One suggestion would be, when you stop the arc do not move for several seconds and let your gas run tell the weld cools a bit. It will make for less oxidation and fewer problems down the road.

I might be a bit too critical. I used to be an aeronautical tig welder and they busted our balls hard during initial certification and re-certifications were not much fun either.

Stick with the thoriated tungsten it is much better than ceriated. Just try not to ingest the dust when you sharpen thoriated, it is slightly radioactive.

 

[kerklein2]

Williams Brewing needs to offer that thing with TC fittings on it.

 

[kevink]

Williams Brewing needs to offer that thing with TC fittings on it.

Maybe they think it's unnecessary because the chiller isn't sanitary as is and welding the fittings on properly is a lot of work. I just welded tri clamp end caps on one of those for a HBT member and noticed that the existing welds (not mine) protruded into the wort tube and were a little funky (bumpy and sugared). It looks like they're not back purging the inside of the wort tube or they're using using too much heat during welding (which I can tell from looking at the outside of the chiller). These chillers should be sanitized with heat as opposed to chemicals for that reason.

Sanitary or not, tri clamp fittings are nice, especially if all of your other fittings are tri clamp.