My idea for an Imperial IPA

[schuby_racer]

Hey, here's a recipe I modified for an Imperial IPA. all I really did was change the types of hops used, to the three verities of hops I planned this spring.

I'm going to try a batch with pellet hops to get an idea of how it's going to taste with my own. Any rights or advise? This is my first time not following an exact recipe.

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[Ambleside]

Looks good,
I'd consider shifting some of you IBU contribution to the late hopping, will cost a few bucks more, but you'll get some more pronounced flavour and aroma which you'll want with with a DIPA, unless your into it leaning towards the more 'harsh' side of bittering.

Also ensure your pitching enough yeast cells. Dry yeast is perfectly fine, I'm not too familiar with it personally, maybe someone else will chime in. Might need to pitch 2 packets to get adequate cell count.

I'm also not sure how much the noble hop will really contribute in a beer of this size and the small amount you are using.

Cheers!

 

[sandyeggoxj]

I would drop the carapils. That is already a component of extract. Also, perhaps replacing a lot of extract with extra light dme and 5% dextrose or table sugar

 

[schuby_racer]

Looks good,
I'd consider shifting some of you IBU contribution to the late hopping, will cost a few bucks more, but you'll get some more pronounced flavour and aroma which you'll want with with a DIPA, unless your into it leaning towards the more 'harsh' side of bittering.

Like put some split the magnum and use some early and some later? Or everything else the same, but just add more later?

Also ensure your pitching enough yeast cells. Dry yeast is perfectly fine, I'm not too familiar with it personally, maybe someone else will chime in. Might need to pitch 2 packets to get adequate cell count.

Yes, I am planning on pitching 2 packets. the app I was using only shows that strain once even thought I tried to add it twice (should have listed that in the notes)

I'm also not sure how much the noble hop will really contribute in a beer of this size and the small amount you are using.

Cheers!

I'm not sure which hop you're referring, the cascade or the Willamette (or both). Should I use more? I'm trying to build a recipe using the three verities of hops I planted this spring.

I would drop the carapils. That is already a component of extract. Also, perhaps replacing a lot of extract with extra light dme and 5% dextrose or table sugar

I would use extra light, but my lhbs of choice doesn't offer extra light dme or lme. IDK why. I can email them and see their suggestion. Or I can go to the other one across town who's more expensive. I am already substituting extra-light lme with the Pilsen lme.

So, why replace lme with extra light DME? I thought extract was basically extract. I had heard the color is a little different but the flavor the same.

I had a basic recipe I worked off, I just changed the hops around.

Thanks for the input! Keep it coming.

 

[bobbrews]

Instead of shooting for a big 1.092 OG, with a high FG of 1.025, you would be much better off targeting say 1.072-1.082 OG with an FG of 1.011-1.016 (<--- the lower the better, which may be a problem with extract). When IPAs finish sweet/sticky/cloying, it defeats the whole purpose of an inherently bitter, dry beer. You're in Barleywine territory there.

If you're going to use extract for an IIPA, I would advise on either Briess Golden Light DME or Muntons Extra Light (or Light) DME. Pilsner extract has a distinct bready, almost lagery taste to it. 2-row extract is best for American IPAs. And DME > LME for a variety of reasons, most notably shelf-life and lighter color contributions to the final product.

A portion of Carapils (likely 3-5%) is already in the extract when the maltster made it. Doubling up on it is completely unnecessary. In fact, you never need to use Carapils for an Extract beer. Remove the 7.1% Carapils and bump up the Extract accordingly. Also, shave off about 2% of the Crystal 10 so your extract totals 80.5% of the grist.

Those hops and that schedule, for an American IIPA, are not the best choice. It will lend a slightly citrusy, mainly earthy/grassy profile and not have much Pacific NW character (typically highly citrusy, fruity, floral, piney, and/or resiny). The magnum addition is fine, but I would go with more of a bold mix later on such as Centennial, Amarillo, Simcoe at 10/0/DH. Use at least 10 oz. minimum total recipe hops by weight for an IIPA this big (even if you're lowering it to 1.072 OG). 40-50% of your total recipe hops should be added to the dryhop. That is the most important hop slot when designing an IIPA and all of the best commercial examples fall in line with this idealogy. The next most important slot will be the Whirlpool/Hopstand additions. If you have leftover hops after calculating the bittering addition, you can add them at the 10 minute boil mark, but this is not always necessary.

Be sure to pitch the appropriate amount of yeast into a highly aerated wort held in the low to mid 60s. Yeast attenuation is crucial for a beer like this.

Good luck.

 

[schuby_racer]

Instead of shooting for a big 1.092 OG, with a high FG of 1.025, you would be much better off targeting say 1.072-1.082 OG with an FG of 1.011-1.016 (<--- the lower the better, which may be a problem with extract). When IPAs finish sweet/sticky/cloying, it defeats the whole purpose of an inherently bitter, dry beer. You're in Barleywine territory there.

If you're going to use extract for an IIPA, I would advise on either Briess Golden Light DME or Muntons Extra Light (or Light) DME. Pilsner extract has a distinct bready, almost lagery taste to it. 2-row extract is best for American IPAs. And DME > LME for a variety of reasons, most notably shelf-life and lighter color contributions to the final product.

A portion of Carapils (likely 3-5%) is already in the extract when the maltster made it. Doubling up on it is completely unnecessary. In fact, you never need to use Carapils for an Extract beer. Remove the 7.1% Carapils and bump up the Extract accordingly. Also, shave off about 2% of the Crystal 10 so your extract totals 80.5% of the grist.

Those hops and that schedule, for an American IIPA, are not the best choice. It will lend a slightly citrusy, mainly earthy/grassy profile and not have much Pacific NW character (typically highly citrusy, fruity, floral, piney, and/or resiny). The magnum addition is fine, but I would go with more of a bold mix later on such as Centennial, Amarillo, Simcoe at 10/0/DH. Use at least 10 oz. minimum total recipe hops by weight for an IIPA this big (even if you're lowering it to 1.072 OG). 40-50% of your total recipe hops should be added to the dryhop. That is the most important hop slot when designing an IIPA and all of the best commercial examples fall in line with this idealogy. The next most important slot will be the Whirlpool/Hopstand additions. If you have leftover hops after calculating the bittering addition, you can add them at the 10 minute boil mark, but this is not always necessary.

Be sure to pitch the appropriate amount of yeast into a highly aerated wort held in the low to mid 60s. Yeast attenuation is crucial for a beer like this.

Good luck.

Does this look any better for a malt profile? I did add rice syrup solid and changed my corn sugar... Because that's what I have on hand. I'm kind of set on using these hops(because that's what I'm growing), is there maybe a different schedule you might suggest? I can change the quantities of any of them, but I'm going to be stubborn on sticking to these verities.

I might make it as is, and learn from my mistakes and heed everyone's advice on the next batch and adjust accordingly.

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[azazel1024]

Yeah, use the cascade and the magnum, do not use the willamette. I love willamette, but it is extremely fuggle in character, which is more of an English IPA/DIPA. The mix of Cascade and Willamette is not going to be particularly good IMHO (I've done it before, regretted it).

For flavor and aroma, use either cascade or willamette depending on what style you want this DIPA to be. Personally if you are using S05, I'd use the Cascade instead of the willamette (or use Notingham and willamette if going for a british DIPA).

I'd go with 2oz of Magnum at 60min, 1oz of Cascade at 15 minutes, at 5 minutes, at flame out and then 2oz dry hopped once the Krausen drops off and leave it in there for 7-10 days before bottling.