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My First Lager - 2 Qs

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DaveGEsq

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1) do I need to ferment at 55 deg or less? 2) is it critical to chill the wort immediately or is the "Papazian" method of sparging directly into the carboy with 2 gal of cold water in it acceptable (this took about 13 hours to come down to pitching temp)?
 
1)depends on the yeast, most true lager yeasts want to be down in the 50F-55F range.

2)the quicker you can chill the better, it will help precipitate out some unwanted break material, and the quicker it is chilled to pitching temps and you get the yeast in there, the less chance that an undesirable bug will get to it first. I'm not familiar with the "Papazian" method, I use an immersion chiller to get to about 70F, pitch my yeast and then move the fermenter to a chamber set to whatever temperature I'm looking for.
 
1) What yeast are you using? The fermentation temperature will depend greatly on the specific yeast.

2) No, you don't have to chill it immediately, but if you don't your risk of infection increases. You should take a gander at "immersion chillers" with the search function. They are very easy to build and are very effective. I used one for a long time before passing it on to my brother, and it could cool a 5 gal batch in under 20 mins. If you don't want to go this route, do a search for "no chill" which is a viable option.
 
Thanks, guys. I'm using Saf Lager Yeast S 23. The package says it wants to be 46-56 deg. My problem is , I have no place to get the temps that low without getting a fridge. Is that my only option?
 
Google "Son of a Fermentation Chiller". I'm grabbing my insulation today (hopefully).
 
1) Saflager is best fermented @ 48-59F (9-15C) according to the product information. I would certainly target the 50F range due to the heat generated during fermentation.

2) It is fine to siphon from the boil kettle into a fermenter with cold water in it. I would pre-boil the water you intend to put in the fermenter though. Sanitize the fermenter and add the boiled-then-chilled water to it. You want to chill to pitching temps as fast as possible for a few reasons;
- Prevention of DMS (cooked corn-like flavor in your beer)
- Reduces chance of infection (previously stated)
- Improves separation of break material (previously stated - helps reduce haze)

That being said, the two things that have really helped my beer are 1) a chiller (mine's an immersion chiller) and 2) fermentation temperature control (Love controller and an old freezer).
 
I checked with the guys at Jim's Home Brew here in Spokane. They assured me that I could get down to the temps I need by putting my fermentor right on the basement floor (should get me in to hi-50s). Apparently Saflager can still churn out a pretty clear beer in the hi-50s. I brewed a batch of Rocky Raccoon's Honey Lager last night (used 4lb DME, 3lb honey, 1.5 oz Cascade pellets (boil) and 1.5 oz Cascade pellets (finish)). The blowout tube was making bubbles in about 45 minutes and we already have a nice kreusen this morning. By tonight I think I'll be ready to take it downstairs and let the magic happen. I think I may try to build the Son of Fermentation Chiller this week anyway.
 
Not that anyone is reading this thread anymore. But I thought I'd update anyhow. After a day and a half, the fermentation was still very active but the kreusen had diminished. So I put the ferm lock on and put it in the basement. We'll see what happens. Temps had risen to 79F!? You dont think I'll shock he yeast do you?
The gravity was 1.035 (OG 1.060), so it's working! The taste was sweet and bodied, but I may have over done the hops...
 
you could use a kolsch, Nottingham, or American ale yeast and ferment it around 60 degrees. Those are very clean yeasts and it should turn out ok
 

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