Starks
New Member
First off let me start by saying by no means am I an expert in brewing or building the Brutus 10. That is why I love this hobby...I learn stuff everyday. Feel free to shoot me a message if you have any questions on how I did something. Id be happy to help explain it. There is a multitude of ways to build these so definitely check other sources for info as well!
I used 1 1/2" 14 Gauge steel for my frame. Bought all the steel I needed based on this design from a local welding/Steel supply store. $60 pre-cut to length. (2" Stainless looks better in my opinion but its much more expensive and harder to weld and make it look pretty :cross
I went to Lowes and Bought a $200 Blue Hawk Mig Welder, magnetic speed square, wire brush, and welding hammer. I used Flux Cored wire so I didn't need co2 or Nitro gas. The welder worked amazing. (I recommend using a few scrap pieces to practice on first. Watch youtube videos to learn the proper technique. Run at 5-8 amps) (Pro tip: Order an Auto darkening Helmet off Amazon. It speeds up the process big time.)
After I welded up the frame I went and bought a cheap hand held grinder so I could smooth out all the welds before I painted. I used an High Temp Black Engine spray paint. Its rated up to 500 degrees. In hind sight I should have used the 1200 degree paint for grills...just in case!)
After the frame was done I started working on the control panel. I used a 12" X 12" Electrical Junction box to house my controls. I used that because they are super cheap and easy to work with. I bought two love temp swtich controllers from Dwyer Instruments. I bought the toggles from radio shack. I kept the panel pretty simple. (I have seen some amazing panels on the interwebs.) I have a main power switch, Love controller on/off switch. Pump switches, and a Hand/Off/Auto 3 way toggle for the two gas valves. (Must use 4 relays to make the HOA switch work.) (Used hand grinder with cutting wheel to cut holes for Love controllers)
If you have questions about the wiring let me know. It is fairly hard to explain. I used to be a building automation project manager so electricity and relay logic is second nature to me.
After the controls were finished I moved on to the gas lines. (TIP: you must use Yellow Gas rated Teflon tape to seal your joints!!! I decided to use regular Teflon and not enough to boot and I had leaks all over. Make sure you use a 10 Inch piece (Min) and wrap it clockwise!) check your joints with a spray bottle and soapy water while the lines are under pressure. Also two small monkey wrenches help. don't try and use two sets of channel lock pliers like I did at first. Your hands will be toast after an hour of that. I ordered my electric valves from eBay. They are from valves for projects I believe. They work great and are WAY cheaper than the ASCO valves Lonnie used. I bought 1/2" FPT X 120Volt Power Open/Spring close Valves. (Safety tip: You should get spring closed. If there is a power failure then the valves default position is off. Propane is very dangerous so make sure you leak check and have plenty of fresh air moving in the area you test/brew) There is an option to use the honeywell gas valves with flame sensors. Definitely worth using for extra safety. I don't plan on leaving my Brutus unattended on brew day and I plan on having the garage door open and a fan blowing to the outdoors. I decided to use the cheaper valves.
Picture was before I realized my Teflon mistake and before I had to redo the entire line with the correct rated Teflon.
I used 10 Jet propane burners from Bayou Classic Depot. They are a tad cheap but no more than I will use them I am OK with that. ($28 each) They do not have the hole for a pilot light which was disappointing but a little bit of steel wire wrapped around the tubing held my pilot in place just fine. ( I used a compression fitting with a small piece of 1/4" Copper tubing sticking out about an inch. I crushed the end of the copper with Linesmen pliers and just a tiny shred of gas comes out. That's really all you need for the pilot light)
I tested the controls and valves with a voltage meter first then with live gas/fire. They worked like a charm. (make sure you don't run your jet burners at full blast, they can melt your pot. I run my ball valves open just enough to have blue flame and not a hair more.)
I ordered 15 gallon Mega pot 1.2's from NB.com and really like them. I got my QD's from AIH. They were a tad cheaper than NB on those. (Don't get sticker shock when purchasing new kettles and QD's. That stuff is far from cheap!...stainless steel man...stainless steel...)
I also bought a premade spinning sparge arm from AIH and mounted it in the lid of the Mash tun by drilling a small hole and using the hose clamp to hold it at the correct height. I used brass fittings for the lid components. I basically copied Lonnie Mac's lid designs to the letter. (Tip: if you are trying to secure the brass fittings to the lid, go buy a 3/4" flat washer with a 1/2" threaded Conduit ring. Whatever you are attaching to the bottom will be threaded. Just use the conduit ring to tighten up the washer to the bottom of the lid. Works perfect!)
I am using 1/2" ID X 3/4" OD High Temp Silicone tubing for all my lines. I like the fact that I can see the Wort/Water flowing in the Silicone versus the Thermoplastic. (Use whatever you prefer.)
I finished my set up this afternoon and I'm really excited to brew the first batch next weekend. I think I am going to brew a traditional American Wheat and an IPA. Looking forward to having complete control over my temperatures and not having to haul/pick up heavy kettles/coolers full or grains and wort!
I'm sure I am leaving stuff out. I built this all as I went and tackled each problem as I found it. I will try and upload some videos to photo bucket and get some linked. I made a few for some of my buddies that don't brew. Keep in mind they know nothing about brewing when you listen to the narration.
Thanks for reading. More to come soon! Another Brutus 10 in action! :rockin:
I used 1 1/2" 14 Gauge steel for my frame. Bought all the steel I needed based on this design from a local welding/Steel supply store. $60 pre-cut to length. (2" Stainless looks better in my opinion but its much more expensive and harder to weld and make it look pretty :cross
I went to Lowes and Bought a $200 Blue Hawk Mig Welder, magnetic speed square, wire brush, and welding hammer. I used Flux Cored wire so I didn't need co2 or Nitro gas. The welder worked amazing. (I recommend using a few scrap pieces to practice on first. Watch youtube videos to learn the proper technique. Run at 5-8 amps) (Pro tip: Order an Auto darkening Helmet off Amazon. It speeds up the process big time.)
After I welded up the frame I went and bought a cheap hand held grinder so I could smooth out all the welds before I painted. I used an High Temp Black Engine spray paint. Its rated up to 500 degrees. In hind sight I should have used the 1200 degree paint for grills...just in case!)
After the frame was done I started working on the control panel. I used a 12" X 12" Electrical Junction box to house my controls. I used that because they are super cheap and easy to work with. I bought two love temp swtich controllers from Dwyer Instruments. I bought the toggles from radio shack. I kept the panel pretty simple. (I have seen some amazing panels on the interwebs.) I have a main power switch, Love controller on/off switch. Pump switches, and a Hand/Off/Auto 3 way toggle for the two gas valves. (Must use 4 relays to make the HOA switch work.) (Used hand grinder with cutting wheel to cut holes for Love controllers)
If you have questions about the wiring let me know. It is fairly hard to explain. I used to be a building automation project manager so electricity and relay logic is second nature to me.
After the controls were finished I moved on to the gas lines. (TIP: you must use Yellow Gas rated Teflon tape to seal your joints!!! I decided to use regular Teflon and not enough to boot and I had leaks all over. Make sure you use a 10 Inch piece (Min) and wrap it clockwise!) check your joints with a spray bottle and soapy water while the lines are under pressure. Also two small monkey wrenches help. don't try and use two sets of channel lock pliers like I did at first. Your hands will be toast after an hour of that. I ordered my electric valves from eBay. They are from valves for projects I believe. They work great and are WAY cheaper than the ASCO valves Lonnie used. I bought 1/2" FPT X 120Volt Power Open/Spring close Valves. (Safety tip: You should get spring closed. If there is a power failure then the valves default position is off. Propane is very dangerous so make sure you leak check and have plenty of fresh air moving in the area you test/brew) There is an option to use the honeywell gas valves with flame sensors. Definitely worth using for extra safety. I don't plan on leaving my Brutus unattended on brew day and I plan on having the garage door open and a fan blowing to the outdoors. I decided to use the cheaper valves
.
Picture was before I realized my Teflon mistake and before I had to redo the entire line with the correct rated Teflon.
I used 10 Jet propane burners from Bayou Classic Depot. They are a tad cheap but no more than I will use them I am OK with that. ($28 each) They do not have the hole for a pilot light which was disappointing but a little bit of steel wire wrapped around the tubing held my pilot in place just fine. ( I used a compression fitting with a small piece of 1/4" Copper tubing sticking out about an inch. I crushed the end of the copper with Linesmen pliers and just a tiny shred of gas comes out. That's really all you need for the pilot light)
I tested the controls and valves with a voltage meter first then with live gas/fire. They worked like a charm. (make sure you don't run your jet burners at full blast, they can melt your pot. I run my ball valves open just enough to have blue flame and not a hair more.)
I ordered 15 gallon Mega pot 1.2's from NB.com and really like them. I got my QD's from AIH. They were a tad cheaper than NB on those. (Don't get sticker shock when purchasing new kettles and QD's. That stuff is far from cheap!...stainless steel man...stainless steel...)
I also bought a premade spinning sparge arm from AIH and mounted it in the lid of the Mash tun by drilling a small hole and using the hose clamp to hold it at the correct height. I used brass fittings for the lid components. I basically copied Lonnie Mac's lid designs to the letter. (Tip: if you are trying to secure the brass fittings to the lid, go buy a 3/4" flat washer with a 1/2" threaded Conduit ring. Whatever you are attaching to the bottom will be threaded. Just use the conduit ring to tighten up the washer to the bottom of the lid. Works perfect!)
I am using 1/2" ID X 3/4" OD High Temp Silicone tubing for all my lines. I like the fact that I can see the Wort/Water flowing in the Silicone versus the Thermoplastic. (Use whatever you prefer.)
I finished my set up this afternoon and I'm really excited to brew the first batch next weekend. I think I am going to brew a traditional American Wheat and an IPA. Looking forward to having complete control over my temperatures and not having to haul/pick up heavy kettles/coolers full or grains and wort!
I'm sure I am leaving stuff out. I built this all as I went and tackled each problem as I found it. I will try and upload some videos to photo bucket and get some linked. I made a few for some of my buddies that don't brew. Keep in mind they know nothing about brewing when you listen to the narration.
Thanks for reading. More to come soon! Another Brutus 10 in action! :rockin:
