MrShake's Magic Brewhaus or Top Hat Brewery

[cruelkix]

I'm going to be running a circuit to the garage so I can put in what I want, but if I went with 2 5500w elements... that would @ 50amps without any overhead... I'd really need a 60 or 70amp circuit... and while I have 200amp service, thats a lot to devote to brewing.

Hrm.... I know there are some other posts about never needing to use both elements at the same time.

If you def have a 200 amp service that I would not worry about it at all. I agree that you would need a 60 amp breaker for the heating elements. I run all of my 120 v stuff of a seperate breaker. You may be able to get away with out running them at the same time but, I would design it the other way around. Assume you will need to. Just because you have 60 amps run to the garage doesnt mean you are always using it. I have 100 amp service to my house and 100 amps worth of breakers in my garage. It lends itself to blowing my main breaker, but every house is capable of over doing it with all the breakers taht are in there.

 

[MrShake]

So update, I've decided to go with a 4500w element for the HLT and a 5500w element for the BK.

I'll run a 60a 220 circuit to the garage as well as a 20a 110 circuit and be happy with TONS of power in the garage!

 

[cruelkix]

So update, I've decided to go with a 4500w element for the HLT and a 5500w element for the BK.

I'll run a 60a 220 circuit to the garage as well as a 20a 110 circuit and be happy with TONS of power in the garage!

I think that is a very good decision! You'll be happy you did

 

[MrShake]

I felt like I wanted to actually post some pics... I'm still waiting on all the parts I've ordered to arrive before actually posting a build pic, but for those interested, here are some of the parts and their sources so far:

3 Position Selector Switches for Control Panel:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130307597426

40a SSR w/heatsink:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Solid-State-Relay-SSR-24-480V-AC-40A-Heat-Sink_W0QQitemZ180445671309QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item2a03666f8d

4x20 LCD (brewtroller sells these as well, they were out when I purchased):
http://411techsystems.com/html/dm2004abb6ntdw.html

Brewershardware Temp Probe for BT:
http://www.brewershardware.com/probes.htm

Temp Probe Compression fittings (also brewershardware):
http://www.brewershardware.com/probes.htm

There is some other stuff... I hope to get a bunch of this soon. I'll find other pics and post them as well

 

[MrShake]

The pile of parts is growing!! I can't wait to start building!!

Brewtroller and Temp Probes:

Control Panel Enclosure and 3 position switches:

Electrical Parts and Element Cords:

Everything So Far:

 

[pickles]

I'm at the exact same point in my build. I'm going with a RIMS however. I'm not very computer/electronics savvy so it's a learning process. Are you connecting your temp probes directly to the BT or through some sort of disconnect? I'm going to go with RJ45 connectors and cat5 cable (I have lots of it). Also, I'm guessing you'll have the ability turn on pumps, elements, etc manually via the 3-way switches?

 

[MrShake]

I'm at the exact same point in my build. I'm going with a RIMS however. I'm not very computer/electronics savvy so it's a learning process. Are you connecting your temp probes directly to the BT or through some sort of disconnect? I'm going to go with RJ45 connectors and cat5 cable (I have lots of it). Also, I'm guessing you'll have the ability turn on pumps, elements, etc manually via the 3-way switches?

I'm going to use 3 pin din or xlr connectors for the probes. And yes, the 3 way switches are for manual control.

Good luck with your build!

 

[MrShake]

Got an electrical question....

I picked up a 60amp gfci spa disconnect to act is my gfci protection for the eHERMS...

Is it a problem or am I "over fused" with a 60 amp breaker if I am only running 1 element?

 

[pickles]

No problem. Just make sure your wiring is suitable for then amperage your using. You may need to fuse the components after the GFCI to protect them from too much juice. I'm sure you'll get a better answer though.

 

[MrShake]

I think I'm going to post specifically about the 60amp and fuse solution to the diy forum, maybe or electrical guys will have advice.

 

[MrShake]

So I spent last night wiring and drilling and dremeling on my control panel box... and this is what I ended up with!!

USB Connector:

Temp Sensor Connectors:

120v Power Connector:

I'm totally geeked!!! I also feel much safer with everything mounted and not floating around in the box!!

 

[pickles]

Looking good! I can't wait to get my BT up and running!

 

[MrShake]

 

[pickles]

The LED's are really cool. I have a similar setup with LEDs in construction now. I'm gonna go with cat5 / RJ45 for my sensor connection, but i like those metal XLRs.

 

[beerocd]

No pics of the innards? Just wanted to see what you did with all the blue boxes.

 

[MrShake]

No pics of the innards? Just wanted to see what you did with all the blue boxes.

I've got some innards pics taken, but they are on another camera... doh.

The blue boxes are just outlet boxes for the power run to the garage, they don't go in the control panel... hehehe

 

[mmb]

I've got some innards pics taken, but they are on another camera... doh.

The blue boxes are just outlet boxes for the power run to the garage, they don't go in the control panel... hehehe

Come on! We have all this substance and no flash! I just want to look at the pretty pictures and drool!

Very cool build!

 

[MrShake]

I'll get you pics soon!! May even of BREWING with this monstrosity!

 

[beerocd]

The blue boxes are just outlet boxes for the power run to the garage, they don't go in the control panel... hehehe

I thought just maybe the boxes were holding onto internal outlets or something making mounting components easier inside the box. That way instead of gluing down components, you glue the boxes and mount components more conventionally.

 

[MrShake]

Did some more work on the control panel last night.... installed the single relay boards that are in the store, the pump outlet, as well as hooking up all the usable LEDs and such... its a mess, and doesn't all work yet, but here it is:

Preparing to make a hole for the outlet:

The tool, and the aftermath:

The hole:

One of the relay boards installed, and you can see my mounting method:

Both relay boards are in:

More in next post

 

[MrShake]

Here is the control panel with all its components in place:

Outlet in place and screwed in:

Added an outlet insulation gasket... in hopes that it will provide a LITTLE moisture resistance:

Stainless cover plate:

Power run to the relays and outlet (not working in the end):

More in next post

 

[MrShake]

Closup of the relay boards main power connected:

Inside of the top cover... or, Rat's Nest:

Manual ON leds work!:

Thats it for now. In a test run, the pump outlet is not working. Did discover I had my leads wrong on the 12 volt side... Now getting the relay board led to light up (dimly though) but no power to the outlet.

I'm going to start a wiring question thread to answer those questions thought.

 

[MrShake]

So this weekend had a couple of advancements in the eHERMS build.

I received a TON of stainless parts for plumbing purposes on friday. It was a bulk classifieds purchase, so I still need to sort through and take some pics.

I also ordered a second set of contact blocks for my control panel switches. The plan, as it stands, is to use 1 set per switch for the Manual/Auto leds when the switch is turned that way, so that I can run them directly off the 12 volt source.

The reason for this is that when trying to power the Relays for the pumps with an LED and resistor in line droped the voltage enough that the relay wouldn't trip. Lesson learned. Thats one of the amazing things about these switches, you can continue to add contact blocks to infinity. As a reminder, here are the switches:

The yellow part at the back is a contact block, and is removable or stackable... neat stuff.
as well, I didn't point out specifically the relay's I'm using for the pumps:

These are from the brewtroller store and work great with the brewtroller system, or with others.

If I haven't mentioned it much before, I am using the BrewTroller for this build. If you haven't checked out this platform yet, you should take a look... http://www.brewtroller.com
I believe there are a lot of misconceptions about this setup.... its not as techy/DIY dependant as a lot of folks think. If your considering PID controls and making a control panel that way, then you REALLY do have all the skills needed! I know BCS is popular right now here on HBT, but its really not any harder to setup a brewtroller. Feel free to ask if you have any questions!!

I also placed an order this morning for panel mount cat 5e jacks that will work with the thick plastic of these electrical boxes (I hope). I'll post pics once I get them.

The actual WORK done this weekend was on the secondary box housing all the 240v items. Specifically the SSRs, outlets, distribution block and fuses for the heating elements.

It still needs the incomming power hole cut and cord secured. And, I noticed this morning that one of the wires seperated from the spade connector. Gotta re-crimp and heat shrink that connection.

As well, one of the cat 5e jacks will be in this box. My plan is to use cat 5 to run the signal cable for the SSRs.

There it is right now.... Ask any questions you might have!

 

[MrShake]

I got word today that my March Pump is sitting on the doorstep waiting for me!! WOO HOO!!! I hope some of the other parts arrive today as well.

Hopefully, more pics after tonight's work

 

[MrShake]

A little more work and a few more parts yesterday.

I received my second set of contact blocks. So, I setup the first tier (closest to the switch itself) as the LED contact blocks, since they are least likley to have issues and easiest to test.
I also rerouted the wires for that so they are less tangled, and ran them to a 4 pin PSU molex, for easy connection to power in the box.
I also added one more 8 terminal barrier strip in the box, just to act as a 12 volt bus. I put the other side of the LED molex connector on that bus, now the LED's hook up easily.
Tested that and it works perfectly.

I then wired the servo leads to the second contact block on the switch to the HLT and BK. That was very simple. I can't test that until I have the 240v box complete so that I can see the SSRs power on.

I also recieved my march pump yesterday, but there is nothing more to do with that.

Now, the pictures:

New Top-side wiring with second contact blocks for BK/HLT:

Added 12v bus and wiring in the box itself:

And, march pump:

 

[jcdillin]

Lookin great Shake!

 

[MrShake]

Thanks JC!

 

[capnr0n]

Looking great. I'm at a similar stage of my build for my RIMS. Will get pics posted this weekend and we can share notes.

 

[willynilly]

I love all the space you have in there. I have 10 SSRs, 2 outlets, distribution block, a BCS, a wireless router and a 105 CFM cooling fan packed into one of those 12 x 12 boxes. I wish I could find a 16 x 16

 

[MrShake]

I love all the space you have in there. I have 10 SSRs, 2 outlets, distribution block, a BCS, a wireless router and a 105 CFM cooling fan packed into one of those 12 x 12 boxes. I wish I could find a 16 x 16

Holy Crap dude!! I couldn't imagine fitting 10 ssrs into that box! I'd LOVE to see pics of how you got it all in there!