Mr Beer - Read all about it and ask questions

[Kealia]

The sweet taste is because of the adjunct to malt ration. It's 50/50 in their standard recipes but they are good to get you started on the process and understand the ingredients.

Two quick changes will give you beer that is orders of magnitude better:
1) Replace the Booster with one of their UMEs (or pick up some LME/DME from your LHBS)
2) Pitch 2-3 times the yeast they provide you with. 2 grams in insufficient. The yeast itself is good quality, just poor quantity.

Of course you can always pick up different yeast from your LHBS, too. But those simple changes will produce much better beer quickly.

If you like what you've done so far, you're in for a real treat when you use more malt.

Cheers.

 

[Justibone]

I think you'll like their recipes from their website much more.

Also, cold-conditioning makes good beer great. Leave them in the fridge for an extra week and see if you don't agree with me.

 

[BaconManic]

After the "kits" are gone, I no longer plan to follow the recipies I find on the MrBeer website. I plan to go to my LHBS and have them out me out there.
I took a free learn to brew class through them, but was afriad to spend the money on a "big boy" kit up front to only dabble into the craft. Also I was afraid of the amount it would make being to much.
Also I have noticed that a beer I leave in the fridge longer does seem to get better. Also should I let the next couple batches I make sit an card for at least 3 to 4 weeks instead of 2 weeks?

Also I am not sure what you mean by "The sweet taste is because of the adjunct to malt ration"

 

[BrewinHooligan]

Yes, 3-4 weeks to carb is the best bet. Even if it seems carbed sooner, it takes some time for the CO2 to fully be absorbed in the beer. You typically do not want to use any more than 10% adjunct for any brew unless it's a Belgian. An adjunct is anything that is not a malt, most common is sugar or a syrup which the Booster is Corn Syrup Solids. Using more malts will give a fuller body, it won't dry out as much, and is less likely to have a sweet flavor.

 

[Kealia]

Yes, what he said!

 

[gtlaw10]

Also should I let the next couple batches I make sit an card for at least 3 to 4 weeks instead of 2 weeks?

Definitely leave them for at least 3 weeks @ ~70F (if it's less leave them longer, more then leave them for less time). It's just an excellent rule of thumb for most styles.

Also I am not sure what you mean by "The sweet taste is because of the adjunct to malt ration"

Sweet as a flavor can also be attributed to simply using extract and your yeasties not being able to attenuate the beer to a drier (less sweet) finish because of the amount of unfermentables inherent in extract brewing.

Generally when the grist contains more than 20% simple sugars (booster, etc) you encounter a cidery flavor reminiscent of...well...hard cider, I believe this is what Kealia was referring to, but the cidery flavor resultant from an improper adjunct/grain ratio is unmistakable. However, she could have also been speaking of using an improper ratio of say, corn/oats/rice - aka BMC flavors, which can be described as attributing sweetness to the brew.
Enjoy the transition between kits and self-creation.

 

[The_Professor]

Wow so much information on this board.
I have been working with the Mr Beer for a few months now. I got it from a cheap website...

So you got a WOOT special
I chose my Mr.Beer Kit entirely on purpose.
In any case we can both make beer.

I've been "homebrewing" for a few years now and have no problem doing extract kits, Mr. Beer partial mashes, all grain or whatever I want.

I hope you learn to make the beer you like.

 

[Justibone]

After the "kits" are gone, I no longer plan to follow the recipies I find on the MrBeer website. I plan to go to my LHBS and have them out me out there.

In case they try to "sell" you on stuff, just remember: most recipes can be cut in half and brewed in a MrB fermenter. Just FYI.

I took a free learn to brew class through them, but was afriad to spend the money on a "big boy" kit up front to only dabble into the craft. Also I was afraid of the amount it would make being to much.

5 gallons is way too much for me. I drink 3-5 beers a week, and only one of my friends that visits regularly drinks beer. 5 gallons = 50 beers, so 2.5 months' worth! I'm tired of the beer way before it's gone. If I did a beer exchange with buddies, or submitted to contests, then maybe... but 5 gallons is a lot of beer.

Also, I don't like kegging. It's never turned out as well as bottling for me.

Also I have noticed that a beer I leave in the fridge longer does seem to get better. Also should I let the next couple batches I make sit an card for at least 3 to 4 weeks instead of 2 weeks?

Longer carbing is generally better. Like the above posters said, 3 or more weeks is good.

Storing your beer after it is carbed at a lower temperature is better for a few reasons:
1) preservation
2) cold-conditioning improves flavor
3) the yeast cake gets more compact, so you get a cleaner pour

Also I am not sure what you mean by "The sweet taste is because of the adjunct to malt ration"

I think "sweet taste" comes from either carmelization/maillard reactions (unlikely) or from weak attenuation. Someone mentioned earlier that they felt the MrB yeast is too little, and I might agree with that. I've purchased champagne yeast for $1 a packet at my LHBS before, and that dries any beer I've made completely or almost completely, at a low cost. Certain beers you don't want dry (like bocks and belgians, for example), but for stouts and pale ales, etc., dry is a good thing, and champagne yeast does the trick nicely.

 

[BaconManic]

I think I get what is happening. So for the most part the "sweet" taste us because there is too much sugar in the brew for the yeast to break down.

Also I tend to like "darker" style beers. (Guinesse, a local company that makes a Breakfast and PB choc stout, and Porters/Stouts). Maybe someone can point me in the right direction I need to start looking into these?

I have to get away from the "kits" I feel I have already out grown the quality of beer they produce and want to see how good I can get.

 

[mredge73]

I think I get what is happening. So for the most part the "sweet" taste us because there is too much sugar in the brew for the yeast to break down.

Not necessary too much sugar.
Yeast breaks down simple sugars very efficiently but have trouble with more complex sugars. Sugars with long chains like starches are not eaten by the yeast but we still taste these as sweat.
Bobby does a good job at explaining this here:

 

[Kealia]

5 gallons is way too much for me. I drink 3-5 beers a week, and only one of my friends that visits regularly drinks beer. 5 gallons = 50 beers, so 2.5 months' worth! I'm tired of the beer way before it's gone. If I did a beer exchange with buddies, or submitted to contests, then maybe... but 5 gallons is a lot of beer.

This is the exact reason that I use my MrB 'keg' for fermenting as well. IT's the perfect size and while I love beer, I'm not a huge drinker.

When I perfect a recipe, or make a batch for a friend, etc. then I go for 5 gallons so I can keep half and give half away.

 

[Kealia]

I think I get what is happening. So for the most part the "sweet" taste us because there is too much sugar in the brew for the yeast to break down.

I would add that it's too much sugar in relation to the amount of malt. 1lb of sugar in a beer that has 3x that amount of malt isn't necessarily going to be bad. That same pound of sugar mixed with only 1 pound of malt is going to be very sweet and cidery.

 

[Malticulous]

More sugars dry the beer out and thins it out--up to a point. When it gets to 12-18% ABV depending on yeast strain it will make it sweet because the yeast can't take the alcohol. That is one way sweet wines and meads are made. What makes the beer sweet is long chained dextrins (partially converted starches.)

 

[Kealia]

Right, which in this case is the Booster pack (maltodextrin) mixed with one of the MrB HMEs. That's too much adjunct for the given amount of malt.

Could be my bad for using the word "sugar" in my post above.

 

[BaconManic]

Alright I got it. Well I wont be using those "kits" for long. I have found a few recipes on the site I am looking forward to trying.

None the less it seems I can continue to use my MrB for none MrB recipes. (2.5 gallons seems to be enough for now. )

I just need to find a secondary for bottling and longer fermentation (using peppers/fruit/etc). Should this one be one that I can close and add an airlock too?

 

[Malticulous]

You can brew any of the recipes in the recipe section. You just need to use about 40% as much. I do stove top all grain BIAB with mine and a 16qt pot.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f85/super-simple-mr-beer-all-grain-212639/
It's good for experimental and rainy day brews. It's just a fermenter. Don't restrict yourself to the over priced lower quality Mr. Beer kits.

 

[Kealia]

I just need to find a secondary for bottling and longer fermentation (using peppers/fruit/etc). Should this one be one that I can close and add an airlock too?

You could put an airlock on it but keep in mind that the threads are slotted underneath the lid to allow air to be pushed out, so even with an airlock you'll have those slotted vents. Some people have talked about trying to plug them up up but it seems like a pain in the ass. I know a number of people pick up a slimline from Walmart or other retailer to use as a secondary and/or bottling bucket.

For me, I rarely secondary so I have no need for one. I use a second MrB keg as a bottling bucket for my 2.5G batches and just leave them in the primary until I cold crash it and transfer for bottling purposes.

 

[bpgreen]

You could put an airlock on it but keep in mind that the threads are slotted underneath the lid to allow air to be pushed out, so even with an airlock you'll have those slotted vents. Some people have talked about trying to plug them up up but it seems like a pain in the ass. I know a number of people pick up a slimline from Walmart or other retailer to use as a secondary and/or bottling bucket.

For me, I rarely secondary so I have no need for one. I use a second MrB keg as a bottling bucket for my 2.5G batches and just leave them in the primary until I cold crash it and transfer for bottling purposes.

I think you may have misread his post. Either that, or I did.

I think he's asking about what kind of container to get for doing long secondary fermentation, and whether he should get something that will allow him to add an airlock.

If that's what he was asking, then I would say the answer is yes. If you're considering using an additional Mr Beer fermenter, then, as Kealia points out, an airlock is probably not going to work without some additional effort.

 

[Kealia]

No, I think you're right. I think he was asking if his secondary should be able to be closed and have an airlock added. Nice catch, I read it too quickly and tried to respond while "multi-tasking" at work.

 

[dmoore714]

I passed my Mr Beer keg on to a friend tonight. I got my feet wet with it. Figured I should share the love. We started a batch of Witty Monk tonight. Pitched the yeast an hour ago and he's already thinking about his next recipe. I think he's hooked.

 

[Justibone]

As for a secondary...

I've used those 4L wine jugs as a secondary before. There is a drilled bung size that fits them (can't remember ATM) and then that will hold an airlock. No need to buy the wine, though; your LHBS should sell glass secondaries in all volumes 1gal-6gal. It is key to keep surface area minimized when doing secondary, though, so you have to make sure you can fill it all the way up, so in that way, it's better to get a secondary too small rather than too large. Some people fill the extra space with sanitized marbles (?) or something else inert, but that sounds like a lot of work to me, so I would rather just brew a smaller batch (2gal) and fit it into a smaller secondary if I'm going to bother with a secondary.

YMMV.

 

[BaconManic]

I think you may have misread his post. Either that, or I did.

I think he's asking about what kind of container to get for doing long secondary fermentation, and whether he should get something that will allow him to add an airlock.

If that's what he was asking, then I would say the answer is yes. If you're considering using an additional Mr Beer fermenter, then, as Kealia points out, an airlock is probably not going to work without some additional effort.

Yes. That is what I was talking about. A second sealed container for a long fermentation process.

None the less I guess the secondard would become primary for fermentation and then the MrB could be used for bottleing purposes. Such as adding the carb to the beer in the MrBeer and then bottleing immediatly.


I guess it would depend on what I needed to do. If racking would be in my best intrest, such as using Jalapenos.

Am I using the correct terms?

 

[Justibone]

Yes. That is what I was talking about. A second sealed container for a long fermentation process.

None the less I guess the secondard would become primary for fermentation and then the MrB could be used for bottleing purposes. Such as adding the carb to the beer in the MrBeer and then bottleing immediatly.


I guess it would depend on what I needed to do. If racking would be in my best intrest, such as using Jalapenos.

Am I using the correct terms?

Sealed? Not a good thing with fermentation. Airlocked =/= sealed. Sealed == bad.

If you want to add fruit (peppers are technically a fruit) or dry hop or anything like that, then a secondary is a good option. You generally don't want to add flavoring type things to primary, because CO2 actually 'scrubs' out aromatic molecules. The exception is artificial flavoring: you can add that at bottling.

(I've flavored with schnapps, dry lemonade mix, pumpkin spice, lactose and wine flavoring before... results have been, well, mixed.)

Take it easy on flavorings, by the way. In general, a little goes a long way, and a lot gets annoying. The exception is if you plan on storing it for a long time, such as making a pumpkin or Christmas barleywine this year for consumption next year, etc. Dry hop aromas are another exception: they fade fast, so overdoing it is generally not a concern.

 

[brew-bie]

I have been interested in home brewing for a while, but I never gave the hobby serious thought until lately (Grown kids + extra time = home brew). As with any new hobby, I didn't want to lay about a bunch of cash up front, so I bought a Mr. Beer a couple of weeks ago figuring it would be my gateway drug.

I searched for like-minded hobbyists, and through the magic of the interwebs I found this place. I really appreciate all the advice the pros have given on this board. It has helped me tremendously. Particularly in the area of patience!

I am a day or two away from bottling my first batch of Mr. Beer West Coast IPA. I have also ordered a set of 1/2 liter bottles and a red ale so I can start fermenting as soon as the keg is empty.

Anyway, thanks again to all the people who have taken the time to help the n00bs like me!

 

[BaconManic]

Sealed... I guess I really meant with the air lock. I am still learning all this. I guess I want to get a secondary with an airlock then.

Eh I might just go and step up to the 5 gallon things soon. I almost feel if I am going to spend the money on smaller fermentors I might as well spend the few extra bucks and go big. Go big or go home!

 

[BrewinHooligan]

Eh I might just go and step up to the 5 gallon things soon. I almost feel if I am going to spend the money on smaller fermentors I might as well spend the few extra bucks and go big. Go big or go home!

I love my Mr Beer, but just switched to 5 gallon batches because I switched to all grain and go through it faster than I can make it. Plus, it takes the same amount of work to make 5 gallons. I have Apfelwien going in the Mr Beer right now and will use it for test batches and big beers I don't want to have 2 cases sitting around carbing for months before drinking as well.

 

[Justibone]

I love my Mr Beer, but just switched to 5 gallon batches because I switched to all grain and go through it faster than I can make it. Plus, it takes the same amount of work to make 5 gallons. I have Apfelwien going in the Mr Beer right now and will use it for test batches and big beers I don't want to have 2 cases sitting around carbing for months before drinking as well.

This is, IMO, very sensible.

Brew what makes sense for you!

 

[Onimaru]

I just bought a Mr. Beer kit a few weeks ago right now the beer is bottled up and sitting in the cellar for the carbonation to finish, can't wait to give it a try.

For my next project I'm wanting to make a Blue Moon clone so if anyone could point me to a recipe it'd be a great help.

 

[ReaderRabbit]

For my next project I'm wanting to make a Blue Moon clone so if anyone could point me to a recipe it'd be a great help.

IIRC, the Mr. Beer Witty Monk Witbeer kit is a Blue Moon clone, so that's the easiest answer.

I'm pretty new to homebrewing, myself. I grabbed a Mr. Beer to introduce myself to homebrewing and decided to jump into making half-batches of 5-gallon kits after reading this thread. It just seemed simpler to take a few additional steps after grabbing a kit from the LHBS than to order Mr. Beer kits.

I've made four half-batches so far, two milk stouts and two witbeers. I think I'm going to try to figure out using a hydrometer next so I can speed up the process. I'm bottling my beers after four weeks (I mean to give it three weeks to ferment but then I always end up taking a week to get everything together) but from all the advice I get I can easily cut that back in half or more.

After that, I want to figure out secondary fermentation since my cherry tree is blossoming....

 

[mredge73]

This thread is a one stop shop for blue moon clones; including the original recipe from the original brewer: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f12/blue-moon-clone-65328/
The extract recipe is buried inside; looks like post #439
There are a few dozen all grain variant recipes in there and lots of different spice addition discussions. It is a big thread but read a bit about the different spice additions and decide what you would like to try.

 

[Brewskii]

Sure you guys already have this but it seemed like a good place to post it.

Check out this amazing deal I found on dealnews:

Mr. Beer Premium Home Microbrewery Kit for $23 + free shipping

http://dn.ws/c59e:iapp_ios_dn-1_0

 

[mredge73]

Deal seems to be expired.

 

[Brewskii]

Whoops.....

...sorry, that was a little dumb; carry on.

 

[CS223]

Here's a toast to Mr. Beer, my first, the WCPA. I subbed DME and US-05 for the Booster and Mr. Beer yeast. Used corn sugar to bottle prime. Look out AG, here I come.

 

[BrewinHooligan]

Congrats!! I did a total of 4 Mr Beer kits before moving on to 5 gallon all grain batches. I enjoyed the Mr Beer batches, but I like being more hands on and I was going through the Mr Beer batches faster than I could make them... Now I am running out of bottles and room for all the beer I have now, which is a wonderful problem to have!

 

[powwow88]

I got a mr beer and I made blonde ale this pass monday my first batch didnt turn out right I had bad yeat so I hope this blonde ale turn out good

 

[BaconManic]

So I am trying to figure out. I have done a search and I have lost all my notes from the first time I have read this entire forum. What can I do to make my next batch of whispering wheat better? Replace the Booster with DME? and not bottle with regular sugar, but corn sugar from the LHBS? None the less what DME should I use instead of the Booster?

 

[T8rAleKing]

So I am trying to figure out. I have done a search and I have lost all my notes from the first time I have read this entire forum. What can I do to make my next batch of whispering wheat better? Replace the Booster with DME? and not bottle with regular sugar, but corn sugar from the LHBS? None the less what DME should I use instead of the Booster?

I have used one pound of wheat DME that I picked up from my lhbs. Just remember to bring the water to a boil, remove pot from the heat, add the DME stirring so it won't clump &/or burn on the bottom, bring it back to a boil until the hot break, add any hops forbitterness, soft boil for 60 minutes. Add flavoring and aroma hops at 20 minutes & 5 minutes (or there abouts). Then proceed with your other add-in HME. Good to go and good luck.

 

[Kealia]

I'm going to offer counter advice to the above post (ask 10 brewers how to do something and you'll get 20 answers).

Go with the 1lb wheat dme.
Warm the water up, but don't bring to a boil - it will make mixing in the DME easier.
Once mixed in, bring the water up to somewhere between 180 - 200 degress. That's hot enough to handle killing off anything if you are concerned about that.

At that point, add your HME and proceed as normal.

There's no need to bring the DME to a boil (or have BOILING water to add the HME into). Hot water makes dissolving the HME easier to pour into the LBK but it's not necessary.
Some people believe it's necessary to add the HME to boiling water to sanitize it - I'm not in the camp.

For the WW, there are plenty of hops in the HME to make a nice wheat beer without worrying about needing to add additional hops, too.

The priming sugar doesn't change anything, so you can change it if you want but I challenge you to taste a difference between using corn versus table sugar.

If you really want to kick it up a notch, switch out the Fromunda yeast for WB-06 (dry) or WLP300 for a nice hef.

 

[CS223]

Use DME or UME instead of Booster and a quality yeast. That's key for getting good beer from Mr. Beer and let it ferment at least 2 weeks, maintain the recommended temp by putting it in a cooler and swapping out ice packs every day. Let the bottles carb for two weeks, age two weeks in the fridge. 2-2-2 Adjust as necessary for the style.