Keep the rest at room temp and pop one in the fridge per week to test. I'm sure you will see a difference. Also, longer times in the fridge help the CO2 to be absorbed into the beer.
but considering you've got them at 60F, it may be much longer than that...
When I first started home brewing my "give-away' spiel included "there is some sediment in the bottle, it has some B vitamins and is actually good for you, but you may like the beer better if you pour carefully and leave a bit in the bottle"....My concern is actually for my father and brother who have rather sensitive digestive systems. I'll probably just make sure I pour carefully, or if they are real worried, filter into the glass when the time comes.
+1When I first started home brewing my "give-away' spiel included "there is some sediment in the bottle, it has some B vitamins and is actually good for you, but you may like the beer better if you pour carefully and leave a bit in the bottle".
But now that I batch prime I not only don't give that spiel, I have had people ask why my beer is so clear and trub free.
I originally had the fermenter in the "boiler room" (the room in my garage where the furnace & water heater are located), where temps range between 74-78 degrees. Now it's in an extra bedroom, where temps average 70-73 degrees. Cider can be backsweetened and have the alcohol reduced by adding more juice... I'm thinking beer is not going to be that easy to correct.
Picked up the seasonal pilsner from Mr.Beer. Thinking about replacing the Saflager W-34/70 with some Muntons ale yeast. I'm interested in any thoughts anyone might have on this, pros, cons, whatnot's. It's easier for me to maintain a fermentation temp of 57°-77° F for the ale yeast until I can get around to ordering some stuff off ebay and making a temperature controller.
Bottled my Bullseye Beer tonight. OG was 1.064. FG was 1.018. Pretty close to what the recipe suggested. If I did my math right, that's about 6% ABV. Right? It was a nice golden caramel color, and nice malty flavor. I'm looking forward to cracking one of these open.
How close to 57 can you keep it? If you can ferment in the high 50s or low 60s, using Nottingham should give you a clean fermentation that will be close to a lager in taste. My second choice would be US-05.
At those temperatures, I think you'll be better off with something like the Muntons, Coopers, or S-33. They're a better choice above 65, in my opinion.It holds pretty stable down there between 65 and 70. I've been giving thought to using the large Coleman cooler and just swapping out an ice pack twice a day. I need to set up the remote thermometer and run a test for a few days to see how stable I can keep it.
At those temperatures, I think you'll be better off with something like the Muntons, Coopers, or S-33. They're a better choice above 65, in my opinion.
Justibone said:As a starting beer brewer, think temp in the 60's rather than the 70's.
Cider and wine don't care as much, but ale definitely does.
It looks like I'm going to have to wait until next winter to start brewing ales; it's been a mild winter here in ATL. Then again, maybe I can just brew for 7 days instead of 14...
Justibone said:If you have a cooler that fits your MrBeer, then you can brew in the summer. Just put cooler packs in there with it.
You can also search "fermentation chamber" on this website; people tend to make them out of that foam insulation board stuff... works pretty well. If you have space then it's no problem.
I got a Mr. Beer as a wedding gift and I used it with the HME cans that are included. Now I'd like to take a shot at creating my own wort and am wondering if there is anything special or specific I should do to make this process work with the Mr. Beer kit.
I know some of you will say "ditch it and get a better setup" and I'd love to. Just don't have the free cash right now, so I'm just looking to make the best with what I've got.
Any suggestions on what I should use in terms of pans, etc. to make wort?
Sorry if I sound ignorant. I'm pretty much brand new to this.
Thanks in advance.
I know some of you will say "ditch it and get a better setup" and I'd love to. Just don't have the free cash right now, so I'm just looking to make the best with what I've got.
Just make sure you scale any recipe to the smaller size fermenter (simply cutting a 5 gallon recipe in half will work).I got a Mr. Beer as a wedding gift and I used it with the HME cans that are included. Now I'd like to take a shot at creating my own wort and am wondering if there is anything special or specific I should do to make this process work with the Mr. Beer kit.
I know some of you will say "ditch it and get a better setup" and I'd love to. Just don't have the free cash right now, so I'm just looking to make the best with what I've got.
Any suggestions on what I should use in terms of pans, etc. to make wort?
Sorry if I sound ignorant. I'm pretty much brand new to this.
Thanks in advance.
Hello all.
I am not sure I am in the correct area to post a few questions. I am planning on ordering a beer making kits. (any suggestions welcome)
I currently drink red bridge beer. (gluten free)
Ingrediants are as follows, water, fermented sorghum (sorghum corn syrup) hops, yeast.
I have never made beer, nor do I at this time have a kit to make beer. Does anyone have any suggestions on kits, and also on how to get close to this taste of beer?
I like beer, I drink lots of beer, alcohol content is not that important to me, redbridge is only 3.2% by weight and 4% by volume.
I just would like help on a kit to make it and any help whatsoever on how to achieve this same taste.
What is fermented sorghum (sorghum corn syrup)
Where can I buy this or how can I make it?
At this point I know nothing about making beer, but soon I will buy a beer making kit, I am asking for suggestions.
Kevin
Honestly, I got a Mr. Beer Kit for Christmas; it's a great way to get into brewing. From there, you can learn a lot just by hanging out on HomeBrewTalk and subscribing to forums that catch your eye. Mr. Beer is relatively inexpensive and easy to use.
Mr Beer has been a great gateway drug for me. SWMBO got me one for Christmas and I just made up my last batch of Mr Beer ingredients before I go to 5 gallon all grain batches. 2 cans High Country Canadian, a pound of extra light DME, and a pack of booster for good measure. I boiled the DME with 3/4oz of Northern Brewer hops and if my calculations are right, IBU should be around 70. My OG reading was 1.080, but should have been around 1.065 so I am guessing just not mixed well enough. Now the waiting begins while I piece together my mash tun. :rockin:
I calculated my OG with Brewcalculus as well as my Homebrew clubs online calculator. I did overfill to right around 2.5 gallons. The AA of the Northern Brewer was 9.1% and each can of HME is supposed to be 22. The boil was for 60 minutes
If you overfilled to about 2.5 gallons, then I agree that the OG should not have been that high. As you said, you probably didn't have it mixed well and got your gravity reading from some more concentrated wort. In my experience, when you're using extracts, the gravity is usually pretty close (or dead on) to what the software predicts.
FWIW, I get an OG of 1.080 with an IBU of 92. I classify that as Bitter-as-Hell
I've only used the HCCD once for a brew for my in-laws and it seems to me that it was much lighter and lager-like. Not what I would really consider an IPA but maybe it classifies as an Imperial IPA.
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