• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

Moving to secondary for dry hopping

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Mar 30, 2015
Messages
7
Reaction score
1
Location
Atlanta
I am moving my beer tonight into my secondary to begin dry hopping and I have a question about racking. What is the disadvantage/advantage of using an auto siphon instead of hooking directly onto the spout at the bottom end of the fermentation bucket?

Every video and thread I have read shows people using an auto siphon but why not just hook on to the spout itself? Thanks for the input!
 
Most fermentation buckets don't have a spigot. Bottling buckets normally do. No problem using it if you are confident that it's sanitized and that it draws from above the trub.
 
Most fermentation buckets don't have a spigot. Bottling buckets normally do. No problem using it if you are confident that it's sanitized and that it draws from above the trub.

Awesome, thanks JustLooking. I started using the bottling bucket for primary so I can take the gravity reading without having to open the top.

Not sure if that was a bad idea....seemed like a good idea at the time.
 
P.S. Using the spigot is fine, but it must be well sanitized and it must drawn from above the liquid/trub line, or else you are defeating the purpose (although most of the people here will agree, a secondary does not serve a purpose!)

I'm just one guy, but I make delicious beers with tons of dry hops and would never bother transferring the precious liquid gold to another vessel. Just dump them in. Cheers
 
Ive dry hopped one time and I got so much stuff floating in my beer that I kind of messed it up. I am going to try again but I am going to rack it on to a grain bag filled with hops. Anyone ever try this?
 
My starter equipment kit came with two fermentation buckets, both with spigots. I just racked to secondary to dry-hop through the spigot too (will try without the secondary next time). You will still need some tubing from the spigot to the bottom of the second fermenter - you don't want to aerate as you transfer.
 
Ive dry hopped one time and I got so much stuff floating in my beer that I kind of messed it up. I am going to try again but I am going to rack it on to a grain bag filled with hops. Anyone ever try this?

I've never racked to another vessel (except a keg) for dry hopping, but I do use a bag to keep them contained. Also, after several brews that were dry hopped with pellets only marginally cleared over time, I started using leaf hops exclusively for the dry hop and now get crystal clear beer after a couple of weeks of putting on tap.

My dry hopping process is as follows:

1) After the krausen begins to clear in primary, add bag o' leaf hops to the ferementer.
2) In 5-7 days, with hops still in the fermenter, transfer the beer to a keg. Add 2nd bag o' leaf hops to keg and tap it. The hops remain in the keg for the duration. If I'm not going to tap within 2 weeks of kegging, I wait and do all of my dry hopping in the keg, starting when I'm about one week away from putting it on tap, though I still do two rounds of dry hop additions (one at basement temp for 5-7 days (remove when done) and the second just prior to refrigerating (stays in keg until it kicks)). If I were bottling, I would still do two rounds of dry hopping, but would do them both while the beer was in primary, then transfer to the bottling bucket.
 
I wouldn't rack it off to a secondary, regardless of what the kit instructions might say.
I'd pop the top, drop the hops and give it a week.
That being said, I use a spray bottle of sanitizer to spray around the underside of the lid's lip/bucket connection before opening, and then spray the entire underside of the lid before closing it up.
This has worked for me every time
 
I wouldn't rack it off to a secondary, regardless of what the kit instructions might say.
I'd pop the top, drop the hops and give it a week.
That being said, I use a spray bottle of sanitizer to spray around the underside of the lid's lip/bucket connection before opening, and then spray the entire underside of the lid before closing it up.
This has worked for me every time
 
Secondary...what's that? j/k
I use to transfer to 2nd-ary and dry hop there but it really didn't make any difference and then one time I believe my beer oxidized quicker because of the transfer so I stopped doing that for IPA's, etc. Now, I just toss in my dry hops and my beers have a much more pronounced hop nose, IMO. I only transfer to 2nd-ary when I'm doing Belgian styles to get it off the yeast. I clear my beer by using a mesh strainer bag tied to the end of my tubing. Works like a charm. Also, spigot is fine but make sure it's sanitized and even tilted up slightly so you won't get tons of gunk transferring with your beer.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top